r/HeyGears

Pros are obvious but what are the cons people should be aware of?

I recently picked up a Reflex RS Turbo + PRM along with some PAS10 and PARP10 resin - I print the same item frequently (a 3" statue) to sell on Etsy, and I was looking for something a little more robust than the Anycubic M7 Pro and P1 I've been using (as well as better customer service).

I heard that using Heygears Blueprint Presets + Heygears Resin was bulletproof - and to be fair, the prints have been coming out solid (albeit significantly slower than my Anycubics, but I think those devices use a more aggressive motion algorithm).

Regardless, I was surprised at how severe the support scarring is with the Reflex RS - when printing the exact same models (including layer height and orientation) would a) print about 20-35% faster, depending on the size, and b) the supports would fall right off, leaving virtually no evidence behind. No bumps, and no pitting - just invisible.

With the Reflex RS, I'm losing hours (not exaggerating, given the volume I am printing) in post-processing time - some of it very difficult. Ball supports leave ugly pimples that need to be sanded off, and normal supports leave pits that need to be filled.

I thought the PRM module would help as well - but even using the PRM presets, I'm left with tons of extra work to do.

I tried tweaking the supports (including penetration depth and contact size), and then the prints detach. I can't seem to find the sweet spot I was getting with Anycubic Photon Workshop as well as Lychee slicer.

Tried Open Material Mode + Sunlu ABS as well - that minimum 0.5 second support over-curing option isn't helping (and the print jumped to 13 hours instead of 4.5), and I still either have tons of contacts to sand and fill, or failed prints with layer lines.

I'm pretty handing at slicing and have been doing this awhile, but I can't seem to figure out what gives here - I've heard such great things about this printer + slicer.

Has anyone else run into this issue? Any tips?

Thanks in advance!

Ive used anycubic since the original mono m1. that printer was a work horse and treated me well. I upgraded to an M7 Max which was working great for a couple of months but then just went down the drain quickly. First the middle of the build plate didn't print anymore. So i went through a ton of trouble shooting, replaced the LCD got a new build plate and used some shims to bring it up higher for better contact to the ACP and that seemed to improve reliability. (still very very odd to me that it was working great for hundreds of prints then randomly decided to break) Then the motor / leadscrew assembly died and anycubic does not have any replacement inventory.

So it looks like im in the market for a new printer. I am only doing engineering prints (on the anycubic i was very happy with cretbee heat curable tough) they are usually one offs for fixturing in a production environment. normally long, flat surfaces. Always designed so there is a big base that can print directly to the build plate and hopefully skip some supports. These parts hold multiple assemblies or they clamp them into place. some times they have built in 'springs' to keep things secure. etc etc.

never do any miniatures or figures etc.

So, The Form 4 would be pushing it budget wise and i would have to get approval. but it looks like the most capable machine

The P1 Max looks like a direct upgrade that fixes the major lemon issues that the M7 Max had but its too new to know if long term works. I could also buy this under discretionary spending. But im scared of getting burned with another anycubic lemon

Then there's other large printers but they dont seem as good as the P1 Max

Finally Im looking at HeyGears reflex series, Since they opened up the reflex series it looks like it could be on par with the capabilities of finished parts of a formlabs machine but the hardware cuts some corners.

What would everyones opinions be on this? Unfortunately for what i want to do youtube and forums are not very much help as a majority of the market use resin printers for figures

Hey guys! Can't really find any solid answers to this online, I'm planning on using the PAWR10 wear resistant resin for printing and producing custom action figures - the problem is that it only comes in that bright creamy color. General rule with action figures is that joints that will be rubbing against each other are unpainted so the paint doesn't just chip off, however the color should match the rest of the figure. This won't really be possible with the PAWR10 as it only comes in a bright creamy color.

I was wondering if anyone has any experience or advice dyeing heygears resins? I assume it's not recommended since even changing the pigment can mess with the fine synchronization between the machine and resin. Is there maybe any way to dye resins post printing and curing? I've seen some people put printed parts in heated water with alcohol dye but I'm not sure how effective this is. Thank you!

I want to mix Build with Tenacious. Has anyone done this with their Reflex machine and if so what profile did you use? Tenacious uses a completely different profile than Build.
I'm hoping there's an easy solution because I'm lazy and not looking to mess with manual settings.