r/Impala

I got these 18” ltz wheels for my 07 impala and they’re really far in. I changed the rear struts also but I don’t think that caused a significant difference in spacing. Why are they so far in the wheel well compared to the steelies?

Hey guys, I’m loving the car culture around the lowriders, especially the 64 impala. I am also a tinkerer. So as a tribute to that, some years ago I started a project for a 3d printed lowrider. Struggled a little and took it aside. This year I opened the old files and it was like a reveal. So I made this little ride, and wanted to share it with you.

What do you think? Is it worth to go further on this project?

What’s up everyone — I drive a 2017 Charger R/T Scat Pack and I’ve been running ethanol blends, so I built an iPhone app called 85Blends to make fill-ups easier.
It’s mainly made for people mixing pump gas and E85 who want a quick way to calculate target ethanol content without doing the math every time at the pump.
Right now it includes:
• E85 / pump gas blend calculator
• “At the Pump” fill-up helper
• Garage for saving vehicle setups
• Fuel log
• Reminders
• E85 station search
I built it because I wanted something simple and clean for real-world use, especially for Dodge/HEMI owners running flex fuel setups, unlocked PCM tunes, eFlexFuel kits, or just trying to hit a safer ethanol target.
It’s free to download on the App Store. I’m not trying to spam the group — genuinely looking for feedback from other Charger/392 owners on what would make it more useful.
App Store link:
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/85blends/id6762037468

Will be working on the app and hoping to do lots of features in the future so please let me know what you think 😁

Idk if anyone’s made a post about this before or not, I have a 06 impala fleet model lt, built in September of ‘05 with the bench seat center console that had a broken latch when I bought the car, ordered a replacement off amazon and it won’t fit, screw holes are mounted way too wide, trying to look online for a correct replacement to no avail, including some pictures for reference. First picture is my vehicles console and the second is a one star review of the replacement I ordered on Amazon that complains of my same issue, if anyone can steer me in the right direction I would gladly appreciate it but starting to wonder if I need to replace the lid as a whole to match the replacement part. Thank you

It used to have a small black dome type of thing there before I removed the dash. I’m assuming it’s a light sensor for the headlights but just want to see for sure.

40k miles on it

Apparently it’s sat in a barn most of its life and appears to be in pretty good condition.

Got it from my grandmother when she passed away. Garage kept. 1 owner. Have all documentation including the original window sticker. 115k. Its my baby

I bought this car about a year ago.

Everything was fine until my morning commute saying that engine needed to cool down.

After taking shit apart, I had opened the housing where the thermostat is located, and there wasn’t even a thermostat inside.

I installed the thermostat, and for months it was fine until I decided to make a commute to San Luis Obispo, which I have done before in a 2013 Chevrolet Impala LT with absolutely no issues.

I noticed as I got about 3/4 of the way there, as I started to climb the Questa Grande, my temperature gauge rose to the white line below the red. I was able to drive back home to Sacramento, while keeping an eye on the temperature gauge and it never hit the red, yet continued to fluctuate the entire trip.

I noticed that driving from Sacramento to Woodland, while I’m on the overpass near the Sacramento Airport, it tends to fluctuate the most and has continued to do so.

I was curious if anyone had any thoughts?

So the ol girl needs a lot of work. Most of it’s pretty easy but annoyingly the thing giving me trouble is the harmonic balancer bolt. They’re torque to yield and NLA oem and aftermarket(as far as I have found). Does anyone know where I can find one? Or can I just use thread locker to achieve a similar result. I don’t imagine it will ever be off again but I would rather do it the closest to “right” I can. It’s a 3.5 btw

I'm pretty sure that's where my coolant leak is coming from, but I can't find just the o-ring much less the part to buy. Any ideas where I can find it for specifications for it?