I have already tried the settings on logitech’s website and they were a good starting point but felt a little weak. Also Trueforce seems underwhelming on this game, Anybody has better ffb and trueforce settings without clipping. I am on Ps5 only btw if that helps. Thanks:)
Hi everyone! I have a question... I want to buy the RS50 and a cockpit, but I can't afford the cockpit right now. I was wondering if it's easy to lower the nm of the base so the desktop doesn't disassemble during the races, for example, to 3nm or 4nm, until I can get the cockpit. Is that a good idea? Thanks in advance! 😄 pd: i have an ikea desktop, very common
Hey everyone, so been messing around for 2 days and noticed these settings work really good for drifting on the rs50, fluid transitions and big swings make this so fun.. can't believe how good this game is on the rs50. Feel free to try these out.. i have it set to as close as I can in terms of realism for drifting with natural and fluid transitions by flicking the wheel etc
BASE
FFB / 8NM
FFB FILTER / 3
TF / NA
DAMPENER / 20
ANGLE / 1080 (SOFT LOCK IN GAME)
BRAKE FORCE / 50
*SUPER IMPORTANT* Use pro mode, i thought there was terrible but doable ffb at the start switching to pro changed everything for me.
GAME
FFB / 1.0
Vibration / 0.1
Centre spring / 0
Wheel damp scale / 0.7
Mechanical scale / 1.5
FFB min force 0.6
FFB Load 0.7
Road feel 0.8
Off road 0.7
All other settings are default and personal preference.
Hi all,
Now this isn’t your typical post in here however I’m after some feedback.
I’ve owned a Logitech g pro now since 2023 and have really enjoyed it, it’s initial purchase was caused due to playing gt7 on the ps5 and the limited dd options (was living in nz at the time and fanatec was not an option)
Now I’ve transitioned to PC and Iracing in the past year and a bit and am set for life, couldn’t think where the PlayStation even is.
Now to cut the crap, I’m bored of the wheel its self and the limited offerings around it. Has anyone upgraded to other brands and did they miss truforce? If so what did they upgrade to and did it have any truforce style effects? And more importantly is it better
Thanks
I have tried messing with a few things, but it hasn’t really gotten any better and there is barely any force feedback at all. Thank you in advance for helping me out.
Logitech RS50 Wheel base for PS/PC will no longer turn on. I removed my base from my rig to check my serial number for a separate issue, carefully unplugged all wire prior to removal. Upon initial start up after re mounting the base, the 3 white loading lights appeared briefly on the screen then went away. Since then I have not been able to power on the device at all (no dots, just blank screen). I've started a warranty claim with Logitech but am aware that could take a while before it is resolved. Has anyone had similar issues or have any ideas on what I could try? (Note: I've tried the basics; plugging into different outlets, connecting to my PC (wheel does not show up in GHub), unplugging everything completely and letting it sit for 10+ minutes to no avail)
I play on PS5, i’m looking to try a steering wheel to play Forza, I do not have much knowledge on steering wheels so everything is pretty new to me. Is the logitech g29 a good choice?
I cannot get it to setup to feel right. Need you guys help.
I’m having an issue with my Logitech PRO Racing Wheel/pedals in Forza where the game seems to recognize multiple inputs as the same axis.
In the wheel controls menu, Accelerate, Brake/Reverse, and even Steering are all showing up as:
Device 1: Axis 1
Because of that, when I press the gas, the car acts like I’m braking/reversing instead of accelerating.
What I’ve checked/tried so far:
I’m using a custom wheel profile.
Combine Acceleration/Brakes is set to Off.
I tried rebinding Accelerate and Brake/Reverse manually.
When I try to assign the pedals, Forza keeps detecting the same input: Device 1: Axis 1.
The pedals/wheel appear connected, but Forza is not separating the pedal axes correctly.
I also noticed Combine Steering was turned on in my settings, so I’m going to try turning that off and remapping everything again, but I wanted to ask if anyone else has run into this.
Has anyone fixed this issue with the Logitech PRO Wheel in Forza? Do I need to use G923 compatibility mode, reset the custom profile, change something in G HUB, or adjust a setting in Forza?
Any help would be appreciated.
I've had the wheel (hub) FFB maxed to 11nm, but in iRacing's FFB settings I'vd been running the FFB at 16 (21.8nm). I just realized Logitech recommends the iRacing FFB setting at 9 (38.9nm), but after trying it out, it makes the feedback feel way too light in comparison, at least when it comes to the GT3s. Feeling way more disconnected from the road and sliding out much more with this lower setting.
is this really the right FFB setting for iRacing? Have I been running the FFB way too high this whole time? Any other tips would be helpful.
I love GT7 but would love a free roam racer not on track but with some level of racing wheel realism
Forza 5 wheel feel was meh but wanted to see if Forza 6 has improved
Im not looking for GT7 level but would love it to be closer to that than Forza 5
Thank you
I’ve customized this buttons and I’m looking for feedback on what people feel are the most intuitive button assignments and color choices.
In the images, I’ve created a few different design variations in AI, and I’ve also added a Fanatec steering wheel as an additional reference.
Any suggestions from your experience or what you’d personally expect to see would be really helpful.
(For LMU)
I just picked up the h-pattern but all ports are used up on the RS50. I figure I’d just use a usb hub (ala pc), but it’s not recognized. How are you all using a 4th device without disconnecting and without using a usb switch? Or is that not allowed on ps5? I imagined this would be straightforward.
I need help with a decision.
For starters, I have a Logitech G Pro Wheelbase that I bought in 2024 but haven't used a lot since then.
When we moved to our new house, I forgot to unplug the cables and the AC power adapter for the wheel base and so it got damaged during the move.
I've reached out to Logitech support and they said they don't know when they will have the AC adapter in stock again. In return, they're offering to replace my wheelbase with a refurbished unit that comes with the AC power adapter.
I'm on the fence of doing it because I barely used my wheelbase, however, I can't use it since my AC adapter is broken and Logitech isn't restocking it any time soon, and so going refurbished would be my only option if I wanted to be able to get back into sim racing again.
Almost pulled the trigger the other day to buy the track wheel, held off, and missed it in stock again. What time of the month does Logitech typically restock?
Is there no other universal qr adapter i can insert instead of the overpriced $100 piece of metal? Has anyone tried those Amazon universal hub kits for their rs50? I want to connect the ks pro wheel with my base because the square button on my steering wheel came broken (and I honestly don't like the button layout of the wheel).
I have tried my phone, my laptop, apple pay, my Ipad and for some reason nothing will work
I've had a Logitech RS50 for 6 months and for the last 4 months it's been cutting out mid race on PS5 playing GT7.
An initial firmware update was meant to resolve this but it didn't and neither did the second update so I was advised to use PS4 mode.
The latest firmware update has definitely helped but it has still cut out a few times. Normally in an online race when I have spent hours practicing and qualifying.
Logitech customer service keep asking the same questions and insisting on video evidence. They can't seem to understand that it isn't practical to record all gameplay when the problem only happens once every week or two.
I know it sounds a bit petty to worry about something that only goes wrong occasionally but it has ruined online racing as I'm always worried that it's going to cut out after investigating time qualifying.
Is anyone else still getting cut outs even after the latest firmware update or know if a solution.