r/Millinery

Hello !

So i am working on a Guinan for Star Trek Next Gen inspired costume and found a pattern for a crown hat as you see in the last picture. I am kind of terrified to sew it now that everything is prepped and advice would be greatly appreciated ! The instructions are very very short and concise.

It is instructed to cut each piece in fashion fabric, buckram and lining. I homemade some buckram with some bright yellow coton canvas and stiffened the lining and top fabric (saffron yellow washed linen).

I sewed the 3 layers together as instructed for the back part (circle) and side crown.

And now im kinda stumped. The seam allowance is not the same in those pieces. Approx 1/4 inch and 3/8th inch.

Also the band has a really large seam allowance with a gros grain ribbon sewn along the face.

So.

Am i supposed to sew the buckram in each seam even though its really stiff ?

Could i trim the buckram in the front id the band so it's not taken in the seam ?

Basically HELP.

And thankyou very much in advance

Edit :

Here are the instructions :

The diagrams are for a hat 21 1/2 inchess headsize. You will need about 5/8 yard 36 inch material for the hat, and the same amount of lining material and buckram, and 5/8 yard of gros grain ribbon for the headsize band. Cut out the three pieces from the material, the lining and the buckram interlining. Sew the three materials together then sew top crown to side crown. Sew the side crow together at the back, sew the back seam of band, and then sew band to side crown. Put in a 3/4 inch gros grain ribbon for headsize band. You can put in a black hat lining if you like.

Felt: 230g 50/50 beaver, dark plum, factory 2nd
Crown: 4-4.5in, teardrop
Brim: 3.5in, flat with a pencil curl
Ribbon: Horsehair with a chicken feather

Size: 7 1/8

So, to start with, I really got spoiled with the factory seconds I had before. They had maybe a single spot off, they were really borderline 1st runs. This guy, on the other hand, had creases all over the place and something very weird happening with the stiffening agent. It was a struggle to work with, but I think led to a distressed/marbling look in the final product that I think looks kinda sick. I may go back and distress some more with a blow torch, to lean into that more, or at least add a sharpshooter lift. Jury's out right now.

Major technique change with this one was that I finally got a scroll saw, so was able to make a custom crown/sweatband shaping block for my head. All my hats so far have settled into a good fit after a day or so, but this one fit like a glove out of the gate.

I want a hat. I also don't have alot of money, but I do have is not really much skill. So anyway I figured I would make myself a hat! I ordered some capelines, and watched a few videos.

Right now I'm working on making a some sort of wood block to shape my hat on. Going to round off the top and clean it up a little.

Any tips would be appreciated!

Felt: 160g rabbit fur, factory 2nd
Crown: 4-4.5in, long teardrop
Brim: 3.25in, J
Ribbon: Dark blue silk kimono fabric, with sashiko stitches

Size: 7 1/8

Took more risks with this one, including the brim, the sashiko stitches on the band, and I went for brogue on the sweatband (hehe, leatherworking pun!).

The end goal was to stay in that middle zone between classic, western and bohemian, but step my toe much closer to the western line.