Basically title.
I would love to have a Superlight 2 made with a metallic top shell.
As Logitech does not manufacturer that, are there any alternatives?
Been working on this custom mouse shell and I’m finally getting close to something I’m really happy with. 👀
The idea was simple: take the G.O.A.T. of mouse shapes and give it a modern, lightweight makeover. 🐐🔥
The goal is a clean, lightweight honeycomb design while keeping that iconic G303 character and shape intact.
I’ve been experimenting with the hole pattern, structure, and overall flow to get that balance between aggressive looks, weight reduction, and structural strength.
And honestly… seeing the internals peek through the shell like this is starting to look pretty damn good. 😮💨
Still a work in progress, but the design is finally starting to come together exactly how I imagined it.
The G.O.A.T. isn’t dead. It’s just getting lighter. 👀🐐
This is moreso for hobby purposes, i think itd be a fun project and i like wireless mouses better. Is it possible? And how would i do it? I REALLY wanna do it tho becoz the wired mouse is a really good one but becoz its wired its kinda just rotting. I tried looking on youtube and other reddit posts have varying answers(most saying its not possible) so i just wanted to ask.
Im using Press Play Iris v1, the stock switch (iirc) is Huano Blue Shell Pink Dot 80M & the stock scroll encoder is TTC Silver (idk the height, i have to disassemble the mouse first). The right click is double clicked, and i want to change the switches along with the scroll encoder. What switch should i change it to?
game: war thunder, hogwarts legacy, cyberpunk 2077, other triple a story games, triple a shooter games (mainly battlefield titles), roblox (friendslop games), and chill indie games. sometimes siege x & cs2, but its only casual playing with friends now.
Does anyone know if PMM support is reliable?
I ordered a PULSE 2.0 mouse mod kit along with an additional magnesium scroll wheel, which is listed as “Magnesium Scroll Wheel [PULSE 2.0/W - CYBER OP] for Modkit.”
But apparently, this wheel isn’t compatible with the OP1 8K, even though the PULSE 2.0 is specifically a shell for the OP1 8K.
I find the naming pretty misleading, so I’m trying to contact support to see if I can change or cancel the wheel from my order.
Has anyone here had experience with PMM customer support?
I decided to modify my Logitech Superstrike X2 because, despite absolutely loving the mouse itself — especially the haptic main buttons — the shape just wasn't right for me.
The problem was the rear hump. I really don't like tall, bulky mouse shapes. My favorite shape is something much lower and more compact, like the Pulsar X2F, especially for fingertip grip or a relaxed claw/fingertip hybrid.
So I decided to do something about it.
My first mod was relatively conservative.
I shortened the rear of the shell slightly and then carefully heated the plastic to reshape it. This allowed me to push the rear section inward and make the hump less pronounced.
It already felt noticeably better in my hand, but after using it for a while I still felt that the rear was too tall.
And then I thought:
Why stop there? 😂
This time I went much further.
I completely removed the large rear section of the shell and reshaped the mouse so that the back is now dramatically lower.
The result is a much flatter profile. Considering how large the Superstrike X2 originally is, it now feels surprisingly close to a small fingertip-oriented mouse.
The shape is obviously not something Logitech intended — this is completely custom — but for my hand it is much, much better.
I can now use it comfortably with fingertip grip, without having the large rear hump pushing into my palm.
Since removing the rear shell left an opening, I needed something to protect the internals while still keeping airflow.
I used a piece of metal mesh taken from an old PC case and cut it to fit the opening.
I think it actually turned out pretty decent. 😄
It's definitely not factory-perfect, and I'm not pretending it looks like a brand-new mouse anymore, but I honestly don't think it looks terrible either.
More importantly:
it feels amazing in my hand.
And that's what matters to me.
The reason I was willing to go this far is simple:
I absolutely love the haptic main buttons on the Superstrike X2.
The tactile/haptic feedback is something I really enjoy, but there aren't many — if any — mice on the market that combine that kind of main-button feel with the low, compact shape I prefer.
So instead of looking for another mouse, I decided to make this one fit me.
The funny thing is that the Superstrike X2 is now a huge mouse by its internal dimensions, but its external shape feels much smaller.
I've basically turned a big mouse into something much closer to the shape I normally look for.
And yes... I know I've probably voided every possible warranty imaginable. 😂
But at least now I have a Superstrike X2 that actually fits my hand perfectly.
This is my second major mouse modification — I previously modified a Pulsar X2F as well, including adding an additional programmable button.
I really enjoy taking existing hardware and reshaping it around how I actually use it rather than just accepting the manufacturer's design.
Update v3 mod https://ibb.co/bjymbpzW
I was able to get some help with getting my first prototype printed out as I was having issues on my own printer (I am pretty new to 3d printing and this is not a new friendly piece I guess). I then did a quick test assemble, so not all the parts and no screws, to test for fitment. It fits well, though I want to thicken the walls to make it print more reliably, and flair out the space for the battery to make it a little easier to get the battery in and out. Overall, it's a great success!
I've recently noticed that I don't like the feeling of my palm touching that area of the mouse, does anyone have any recommendations of mice that have what I'm looking for?
It would be preferable if they have some sort of back hump similar to Pulsar ZywOo or NP-01
I made this thing about an year ago, it's a lightweight shell mod for the VXE R1 lineup. The whole set is my design from trial and error.
It has held up perfectly fine and I completely lost interest in almost all gaming peripherals because of it. It's super light and comfortable to use.
I used Nylon to print this and it's great. I don't know why someone would print this in resin but you could if you wanted to.
I think enough time has passed for me to just let people try out my design for cheap, I don't really care anymore. All my stuff is in my patreon page because cults3d takes way too much commission fee.
The weight for the one I use is exactly 19 grams. But there will be some variance between the models and battery size, what you print it in, etc.
TL;DR: Does anyone know of alternative to the Orthovia Orthomouse? Something with thumb scroll *buttons* (not a wheel) that are placed vertically (not remapped horizontal front/back buttons.)
The Orthomouse is the only thing I've ever found that isn't painful to use for long periods. But their quality is crap, & they break down quickly. I've gone through five in about six years.
I'm afraid they may not be made any more. The Orthovia website is dead. Retailers still have them, & I fear I may have to stock up, which is pricey.
The best feature is the thumb buttons. The middle click button is directly on the thumb. And I can scroll by moving my thumb up & down without bending my thumb at all. I find traditional scroll wheels painful to use. I haven't found *anything* that does this.
I'm getting desperate. I'd be open to paying commission for repairing some of my dead ones, or maybe even Frankensteining a mouse that won't break into one of my many chassis. I don't have the ability to attempt myself.
Thanks for reading.
Would people actually buy a Viper V2 Pro-based ultalight custom mouse for ~$110 USD? I haven't built one yet, trying to see if there's enough demand out there before ordering the internals. I already have a 3D printer to make the shell. Would be around 20-25g and zeromouse-inspired. I'm also open to dropping down the price to around $90-$95.
48 grams .I will probably take of the dpi button .I am thinking about get a 3d print fingertip shell ,just 22 grams without side buttons .
Hey guys,
I’ve been working on a lightweight mod for the Superlight 2 and ended up with a part that should theoretically weigh under 4g.
According to the CAD volume, it should be around 3.7g in PA12.
Obviously, CAD weight ≠ real-world result, so I’d really like to see if this actually works.
I don’t currently have access to an SLS/MJF printer, so I’m looking for someone who could print and test it and ideally give me some feedback on:
I’m thinking PA12 or another nylon, but I’m open to suggestions. The main goal is to keep it as light as possible without making it ridiculously fragile.
If anyone here has access to SLS/MJF printing and is interested in trying it, I can send over the STL.
Would be really interesting to see if I can actually get this thing below 4g IRL 😄
I put this here because i bought a finalmouse a few days ago for cheap it is in good condition but it has creaking on sides.I spent a lot of time trying to fix it because it really bothered me, after some time i figured that the tolerances on the edge between upper side and base are too lose and nothing is holding it in place like on the front of the mouse.I fixed it with 4/5 layers of thin electrical tape to fill that space and it doesnt flex / creak anymore.Hope this can help some of you since i didnt see anyone fixing it on internet. since i already opened it i also lubed the click track to reduce creaky feeling after pressing clicks. You can also lube scrollwheel on both sides since there is no lube from factory. I also lubed clicks contact points. i recommend tightening the screws a bit more than factory and doing it with the right screwdriver or you'll snap it, it helps with M1/M2 wobble, and the overall rigid feeling of the mouse. this is honestly disappointing for a mice at this price point but nothing new with finalmouse. PEACE.
They are super annoying and sharp to press because of the fact that they stick out. How do I shave these down or make them flat so I dont have to try to finnagle every press, and make them still look nice and presentable?
Note: If possible I dont want to have to get rid of perfectly good mouse feet to get into the internals, and I have a Dremmel and several other tools if I need them.
Is it possible to take the internals of a regular g-pro superlight and fit it into a 3D printed g-pro DEX body?
My idea is this: I get a regular g-pro second hand for much cheaper than a dex, have a dex body printed with the correct standoffs for the regular g-pro internals and insert the internals. Would this work?
Just wanted to share my modded saber pro, it's hefty at 80g (original is 79g) but it's got a 1000MAH battery upgrade (from 550MAH) that I sketchily wired in because the wires were flipped on the connector.
I drilled out the holes on a drill press in an effort to lighten it up and it does, I managed to strip about 9g off. before the battery upgrade it weighed 70g.
It's got (X-raypad Jade skates). the scroll wheel is also modded, It was previously stepped which I didn't like so I sanded down the ridges smooth on the wheel's scrolling mechanism to get a smooth scroll.
Absolutely love this mouse its capable of 26k DPI, 50G of acceleration, and 650 IPS at 2k polling rate so it keeps up to this day and there's no need for more than that. I'm addicted to this thing and you can get one for like only $30 Used on ebay (you used to be able get them on amazon refurbished R.I.P).