r/RenaultZoe

Hi all,

I’m trying to diagnose two active fault codes on a Renault Zoe:

LBC: DF013 – Battery cells
EVC: DF043 – CAN communication
LBC2 and PEB show no faults.

What caught my attention is the combination. The LBC (battery controller) is reporting a problem related to the battery cells, while at the same time the EVC reports a CAN communication fault.

Could DF043 simply be a secondary fault because the EVC is receiving missing/invalid data from the LBC due to DF013? Or does anyone recognize this specific combination as a known Zoe problem?

I’m particularly interested in whether this tends to point towards an actual weak cell/cell group, LBC/cell-voltage measurement issue, wiring/connector issue, or LBC software/firmware.

Also: does anyone know a genuinely good Renault Zoe/EV diagnostic specialist in the Netherlands? Preferably someone who understands LBC/LBC2, individual cell data and Renault diagnostics rather than just replacing complete units based on fault codes.

Thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/5a5p3ea55yjh1.png?width=2559&format=png&auto=webp&s=da61e01035eea3f8fb6824b8e52da34ce99f6b24

Our 2014 Zoe, bought from 4th owner 3 years ago, reached a nice milestone last week :)

I need to get the regular check after 120k km now - hence the "check engine" light :)

Hi all, I’ve read some people have had similar issues so just wanted to share ours. We’ve got a 20 plate Zoe with 30k miles on it.

At seemingly random times, a warning will flash saying “STOP: electrical fault” or “STOP: check brakes”. Sometimes without any dash warning, the car knocks itself out of drive into neutral. This can happen at 20mph or 60mph, which is obviously quite scary.

We got this issue “fixed” when the car was under warranty, it’s not out of warranty and we’re still dealing with this. Any time we’ve had the MOT due we’ve mentioned it and always been told they “can’t find it”. Yesterday we took it to have the air con regassed (another thing we’ve had to fix multiple times due to apparent leaks) and the technician said he moved the car about 20feet and had to stop and start multiple times witnessing the issue.

Any ideas? Renault don’t seem to care that the car is failing on the motorway

Hello,
I’d love some help please. I’ve a 2014 Zoe and need to change the speedo to show mph not kmph (moved from Ireland to uk).

I saw online people mentioning the wiper stall buttons but when I press these they toggle through some stats on screen (trip distance, efficiency average etc) and when I hold on the buttons it resets the stats.

I changed settings to show miles but this has only updated the satnav to show in miles now.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I have a Renault Zoe R110 from 2020 and I’m having an issue with the air conditioning.

The AC starts cooling normally, but after about 20 minutes the pressure drops and it stops cooling. The refrigerant was checked and refilled, but only a small amount was missing. The system was also checked for contamination and apparently there was none.

My workshop now suggests replacing the condenser. Before I approve the repair, I wanted to ask if anyone here has had a similar issue.

Could a faulty condenser cause this kind of problem, or should I also ask them to check the receiver drier, expansion valve/orifice tube, pressure sensor or compressor control?

Any experience or advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

2016 Zoe. Have had numerous warning lights come on. Figured it was teh 12V battery which was reading 12.1V. Disconnected the -ve terminal, all good, disconnected the +ve and the loudest alarm ever went off, only way to stop it was to connect both terminals back up. Anyone else had this? Was I doing something unsafe - e.g the main battery was still 'live'.

Related to [https://www.reddit.com/r/RenaultZoe/s/C8ZMaGKtD0](https://www.reddit.com/r/RenaultZoe/s/C8ZMaGKtD0)

Service reports port faulty and subsequently wiring found to be somewhat melted to quote them

Battery apparently ok

Has anybody ever heard about that? Ideas why/ how that could happen?

Hi everyone, after >60.000 km, my R135 is due for new suspension (Eibach springs with a mild drop) and new shock absorbers.

Cornering behavior should be taut and direct, eliminating body roll and nose-dive; however, I want to maintain comfort over bumps and potholes—it shouldn't become rock-hard, but rather remain pleasantly damped.

The Eibach springs are explicitly designed to work with the stock dampers. Now I’m wondering: which manufacturer should I choose? Renault OEM? Bilstein? KYB? Monroe? What have you installed, and what were you happy with? KYB is supposedly an OEM supplier for the Zoe, but I’m a bit unsure because Renault has a specific replacement part for the Phase 2 model, whereas other manufacturers don’t distinguish between Phase 1 and Phase 2 in their part numbers. OEM parts are twice as expensive...

thx!

I have a 2017 Q90 and the calendar charging, where you set the start and stop time per day, seems to just not work.

If the car is left set to calendar charging, with the little clock with a charging cable icon on the dash, and I plug the charging cable in, the car will immediately start charging rather than wait to the start time. The only way I’ve found to fix this is to go into the charging options, switch to ‘always charge’ then back to ‘Calendar charge’ which causes the car to stop charging and actually wait.

Now when the start time comes around the car starts charging fine, the problem is it never stops. No matter what I do I can’t get the car to stop charging even though I’ve set it up to.

Does anyone know how to get the damn thing to stop at the assigned time?!