r/SkyLine

Skyline lords, forgive me for it being not a skyline but I was told it shares chassis with the skyline. I'm trying to buy my first used car (2000 GC35 Laurel medalist) but I don't know what to look out for. I was told these old Nissans have lots of rust and electronic issues and was hoping you wise ones could share some of your experience.

Apologies for the horrible photos, it's all I could get because the owner won't let me jack it up or get it to a mechanic.

It started after 2 years of sitting after changing it's battery. Owner won't let me test drive.

This is AI but I was thinking about doing something like this to my 34.

I got a GTT and all the purists out there say GTR this, Godzilla this, OEM that. But if you want your GTT to truly stand out I think this would be it.

Hell, the new skyline is doing a retro revisit so why not join in on the fun.

Happy July 4th to all from the US!

Hoping to get some advice with what’s going on with my driver’s door not locking from the door control, and a tip to pairing a new remote at the end. Before going into the details, this was not caused from pairing the new remote. This was already happening before the new remote was paired.

The video shows exactly what the situation is. The old and new fobs have no issue locking and unlocking the doors, including the driver’s door. However, the door panel control has no trouble unlocking all the doors but will only lock all the doors EXCEPT the driver’s door! Manually pushing the driver’s door lock plunger will lock all the other doors as well. Why won’t the switch lock the driver’s door? The driver’s window doesn’t actuate either but I don’t think it’s related, is it?

Tip for pairing a new remote: don’t miss a beat.

So apparently, there are three versions. There’s the early R34, the late R34, and the late late R34. Mine is late late. When entering into pairing mode, the hazards don’t flash but the doors unlock instead to confirm successful pairing mode activation. Then, AT THE EXACT PACE of inserting and removing the key from the ignition, insert the key, switch to ACC, manually lock the driver’s door by pushing the plunger in, and press the Lock button on the new remote WITHOUT SKIPPING A BEAT. I got so frustrated in the initial attempts. I thought the new remote was faulty or the battery was dead or the car’s memory bank was full. But no, apparently taking 2-3 seconds between a step is considered too long for the system.

Be safe with grilling and playing with fireworks!

The Midnight Purple 2 V-Spec is about to finally head home after just over a year of being worked on and of course waiting for it almost impatiently. Was super cool for Larry Chen to snap a few shots of it when he visited, alongside the rest of PFS’s garage inventory.

Included some updated photos I’ve received of it after it’s PPF and ceramic coating.

This one is on Nengun, otd for $625 (shipping alone is $200+). Couldn't find any other websites to sell the Artina covers.

So I purchased this “genuine” R33 GTR wing from Japan yahoo auctions and when I went to put it on it was way wider than usual about 1”-1.5” wider and as I look it up more the wing doesn’t flow all the way upwards to the trunk but was listed as an oem genuine wing. Is this maybe for a sedan ? Or anyone ever seen a GTR wing like this before

This light has stayed on, car won’t hold a charge so I have to jump it everytime. On top of that it smells like something is burning. Anyone know?

Doing some media of my client's car before it sets sail. Figured some car p*rn would be appreciated here.

What are yall using to tune your rb25. Have a r33 being shipped and trying to figure out best tuning options instead of going haltech ecu

📸 ing.wisanu

Going to be pulling the head on my RB20DE (soon to be +t) to replace the head gasket. Any other suggestions on what I should upgrade while im in there? Already planning to do ARP headstuds as ive heard they are almost mandatory for boost but is there anything else thats worth upgrading? This is setup as a drift car so sees pretty constant abuse

The time has finally arrived. She is finally in colour. Maaan, KH2 has never looked so good! Best factory colour for R32 and best R32 GTR colour in my opinion.

From the absolute heap of shit it was from the start to what it is now is just crazy. Rusty, dented, filler everywhere heap of shit to 90% bare metal respray. Rust treated everywhere, pulled straight, underside raptor coated and engine bay painted.

Wow. We are finally here 😱😍

Removed my front fenders to check for rust and found this. How fucked am I?

Jokes aside just wrapped up the notchtop SR swap on my 34 drift car. Need to dial in the suspension arms and alignment then we'll go hit the track soon.

My non-turbo R32’s been having a weird bogging issue, so I posted here and ya’ll suggested fuel filter as a possibility. Just unhooked the old one and a fair but of this brown gunky fluid came out— even as I type this, if I give it a shake, more comes out the bottom spout. It dries up into a mud texture and then gets crumbly, so I’d hardly call it a liquid.

Internet doesn’t have much info aside from some boating and diesel-related stuff… so, any ideas on the cause and a solution? Holding off on installing the new filter to avoid ruining it.

Took off the head to replace the very cooked head gasket and found a bit of scarring on piston 3 (where the gasket blew). Does this look like enough damage to be unusable? I’m assuming its a result of gasket material falling in