r/SparkXi7

I updated and added all creality printers to orcaslicer. Can someone with a cfs-c printer do a testprint with it? Would be a huge help thanks!

https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/pull/13581

Fiz a a última atualização da Sparkx e depois disso não consigo imprimir mais nada. Mesmo calibrando tudo as impressões saem com defeito de primeira camada e o bico raspando na mesa em algumas vezes. Utilizando os mesmos filamentos que estavam ok antes da atualização. Alguém passando por isso??

My print was doing great (this is part 4 of a 4 part print).

I did not have this issues with the other 4 parts. It is 3 colors. The other parts had multi colors too and turned out perfect. What do I need to check as to why this happened?

Well, this part alone took around 5 days and many hours and minutes. Granted, I did use Silk outer layer speeds on the whole thing. Should look into what I can do to change filament settings or just place a region to modify the settings in that area.

The ears are atleast another 5 days. Need to slice the gold inlays. Its a large mask, but its looking nice.

It is a bought model. He has some cool looking models, but they are mostly either subscription or purchase. I'm not promoting, but I know people will ask for the link because... well, we are makers and we want to make cool stuff!

https://www.nikkoindustries.com/products/umbreon-kitsune-mask

https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/pull/13581

Orca has really old profiles and many printers like the new SparkX i7 are still missing, i converted all new crealityprint profiles and adapted them to work in Orca. Please try it out with your printer!

As a warning backup your files and custom configs!

Also with some printers old custom print profiles might not work (just dont show up) still working on that somewhere there is a naming issue

Designed a Creality pixel plaque with 3 different print methods.

1. If you have 2 or more cfs just load your colors and print.
2. If you only have one CFS unit, follow this trick to avoid using a “Pause” command:

Setup: Map your Base and Legs/Arms to the same filament slot in your slicer.
First Phase: Load your Base Color (e.g., Blue) into that slot and start the print.
The Swap: After Layer 16 (approximately 2 hours in), once the base is finished, simply perform a “Hot Swap” by pulling the Base Color out of the CFS and loading your Leg/Arm Color (e.g., Gray) into the same slot.
Result: No pause is required, and the printer will continue with the new color for the remaining detail!

1. each part can be printed by them self and then glued to the base plate. The baseplate is recessed so you can easliy align the parts. each pixel is single so you it will take you some time to assemble, great rain day project.