2013 swift rs auto
P0101 maf circuit high/low
mechanic cleaned the maf sensor with specialized maf cleaner and cleared the codes but this code keeps coming back all the time, at present issues with car is hesistation on acclerating around corners and tugging when moving from a stop car does not have stability assist or TC can anyone give insight advice
One I’m sorry, I know this question probably gets asked loads, and I’m sorry, but I do want to ask this from a slightly different angle.
I recently moved to the UK from US and I think a Swift is possibly the car for me, but I can’t seem to decide on which gen fits me best. I have owned rx7’s, rx8’s, and golf GTI’s, and I keep going back and forth on all generations of the Swift on which to buy.
I think I’m leaning ZC31S as i have read it’s the most mechanical of the bunch and my biggest complaint with the MK7 GTI was that it was too refined for my liking (I did loads of track days in it). I essentially want something that can catch some of the feeling of an EP3 or a Clio RS without having to worry about street parking it in Zone 2 London.
One I’m sorry, I know this question probably gets asked loads, and I’m sorry, but I do want to ask this from a slightly different angle.
I recently moved to the UK (London) from US and I think a Swift is possibly the car for me, but I can’t seem to decide on which gen fits me best. I have owned rx7’s, rx8’s, and golf GTI’s, and I keep going back and forth on all generations of the Swift.
I think I’m leaning ZC31S as i have read it’s the most mechanical of the bunch and my biggest complaint with the MK7 GTI was that it was too refined for my liking (I did loads of track days in it). I essentially want something that can catch some of the feeling of an EP3 or a Clio RS without having to worry about street parking it in Zone 2 London.
Hey everyone,
I'm the proud new owner of a very lightly used (13k km) ZC33S hybrid and I'm struggling a bit with figuring out when I should do what in terms of maintenance.
This is the first car that is actually my own and as such I'm trying to figure out how to take care of it properly, but I have some OCD among other issues and my mind just gets overwhelmed when I start really trying to work things out, especially as a first time car owner. I'm also still learning about cars in general so I'm not very knowledgeable about the whole thing. I know there's the manual, but do you know of any other reliable source with a simple rundown of when everything should be done? (fluid changes, new parts for suspension brakes and whatnot, service intervals and the like)
I want to make sure everything stays in good shape and I really want to be accurate with preventative maintenance so any help is appreciated, many thanks in advance!
ZC31S / M16A owners, how do you properly check your engine oil level?
After fresh oil service, my cold morning dipstick reading is slightly below max instead of exactly full. But if I start the engine briefly, turn it off, wait a few minutes and check again, it reads closer to full.
Is this normal behavior on the M16A dipstick?
Also, for older/high mileage M16A engines, how much oil consumption between oil changes is considered acceptable?
I'm trying to decide which tires to go for spritied driving and the occasional track day.
I'm planning to run a 215/45R16 tire.
I'm driving a zc32s swift sport.
I have my eye on those following tires, and wondering if anyone had experience with them and advice for me. I know neither of those tires are actual trackday tires, I'm looking to find the best tyre for my daily that also has good driving feel and performance.
- Goodyear efficient grip performance 2
- Michelin Pilot Sport 3
- Falken Ziex ZE31p Ecorun
- Vredestein Ultrac+
Thanks in advance for any advice and input.
Do I wait and save for some Tien coilovers, or do I just send it and get some lowering springs at half the price? I really wanna drop afew inch, but coilovers are like £700🥲
Suzuki swift 2012 not passing 60kmh
Hi guys I have a Suzuki swift 2012 k12b engine with a rebuilt transmission and it’s still not passing 60kmh even after the rebuild, I also have no check engine lights. Car mileage is 80k. Any idea what’s going on?
Hello everyone,
Australian here, and I was thinking of picking up the XFORCE Varex Valved Cat Back Exhaust for my ZC33S, and I was wondering how to route the wire from the exhaust to the engine bay? Reference photos and/or a detailed description would be great, and a video would be even better.
Additionally, how does the non-varex version sound? Does anyone have a video?
Thank you
It mainly happens when I go over a bump or just casual driving.
El ZC32s tiene tps? Si es así donde se encuentra?
Hi! I was thinking about getting different rims for my ZC32s and I figured I'd buy wider ones for better traction. Has anyone tried fitting a 7.5J rim with 225 tires? and If so what aspect ratio? What ET did you go for? Does it rub? If yes, how did you make them fit?
So you finally decided to go for the stage?
Then let's start with the two most important mods - fixing the restrictive stock exhaust and the downpipe. Any workshop will definitely make you a catless downpipe, but the exhaust is a bit trickier. Let's begin with why all this is necessary.
Our car has idiotic ecology that completely choke the engine. A restrictive catalytic and a very restrictive exhaust. Below is a photo of the standard catback.
What do we need to make it straight‑through but quiet? That's right - simply weld in a Y‑pipe. Done that? And installed the downpipe? Well done, now your car is almost ready for Stage 2. All that's left is to fit a larger‑volume intercooler. This part is simple - u need to buy a ready‑made intercooler for your car from HKS or build one yourself.
For catback upgrade u need just 3 stainless steel pipes bent at 90 degrees with a diameter of 50-51 mm
Since the Safety Package car has a radar (damn it) in the lower part of the grille, it adds a whole set of installation challenges. We had to, to put it mildly, fettle the intercooler to make it fit. On a car without a radar, it would have slipped right in, almost like a stock part. The stock inlet and outlet are 50 mm, whereas all intercoolers have much larger inlet and outlet openings. The intercooler we bought has 63 mm openings. We had to buy adapter elbows. However, the 50 mm elbow was only available as a 50-to-76 mm transition. We still had to cut, weld, fettle, prime, and paint.
We also relocated the upper mounts.
Everything you need for the mod:
90-degree aluminum transition elbow, 51–76 mm
Round bar for the lower mount
Pipe, 76 mm diameter, 5 mm wall, 10 cm length
90-degree silicone elbow
Intercooler, 550×180×96 mm, 9.6-liter volume
If your car doesn't have a radar, an intercooler of this size bolts right on.
