r/TTRAK

Reflecting  about T-TRAK after 4 months or so building modules.
▲ 14 r/TTRAK

Reflecting about T-TRAK after 4 months or so building modules.

I am at the beach -- and my modules are at home -- I can't work on my layout -- but I have been thinking about my 1st experience with T-TRAK -- minimal as that experience is.

Just to be very clear about just how minimal -- I built 4 (HO scale) corner models and have been running my Piko NCTD Sprinter around the circle with my TCS CS-105 Command Station and a UWT-100 Throttle.

Two main thoughts:

  1. Because I can build a layout -- the beginning of a layout -- using T-TRAK modules, I can have a layout. I do not have enough permanent space for a layout -- I look with envy on people who have a spare room. I have a house that I like quite a lot -- but it is a 3 bedroom 2.5 bath house in the the South. That means no basement and no attic for you non-southerners.

I have a two car garage, but it's also a workshop with a table saw and chop saw on a stand and drill press and myriad strollers and toys for when the grandkids come to visit -- and bike and tools for bikes for myself and my wife.

We are empty nesters -- but our children live out of town -- which man 3-4 times a year, every bedroom is occupied -- if not bursting at the seams.

That means no space for a permanent layout -- but I can set up an 8' x 5' layout -- maybe up tp a 10' x 5' layout on folding tables in garage, as long as I can take it down if a project that requires the table saw comes up.

I can set it up -- barely -- in the living room so long as I take it down when my wife want to host a bridal shower or a baby shower.

It is very nice to have even a nascent layout -- I had not thought that possible!

  1. Because some people had condense there experience into Standard and Recommended Practices -- mostly those listed in this subreddit's wiki -- I pushed the 4 modules together, set the Sprinter on the track -- and everything just ran.

I am fudging a bit -- one the first circuit, I discovered that one track on eh red track had slid below the Unijoiner and I had to pull that joint between the modules apart and re-align.

I call that zero debug time, and that was very satisfying -- no mechanical or electrical issues.

It was less than couple of minutes from when I put the Sprinter on the track until I was playing with DCC -- my first experience -- and figuring out how get the various announcements to play.

I understand that setting up what is essentially a circle of track and having it prove mechanically and electrically reliable is not a huge technical accomplishment or feat.

But because T-TRAK is truly modular -- the only connections to any subsequent modules are the track ends and the PowerPole connectors that connect a new section of power bus -- I have a great deal of confidence that the layout will be remain that reliable.

My 4 year old grandson and his 1½ sister could run the train around and around -- tooting the horn, ringing the bell, turning the headlight on an off -- with no derailaments or dead sections of track -- just steady running. One of my son's high school buddies brought his daughter over, and she was mesmerized -- running the train around and around for probably an hour while we played in the driveway.

No issues.

As you can no doubt tell, I am very pumped up by all this.

I can't wait for my set of double modules to be delivered, so I can run on the red track and the yellow track. :-)

The structure kits are piling up.

This has all been a pretty wonderful experience.

u/aengusoglugh — 5 days ago
▲ 6 r/TTRAK+1 crossposts

"Marking pins" for Kato Unitrack screw holes?

I like to attach my Unitrack by screwing up from the bottom -- and that works incredibly well when I am using laser cut module the holes pre-drilled/burned.

I have seen a number of home-brew solutions -- marking the posts with a Sharpie and pressed them down onto the module; drilling the screw post up from the bottom, and then down from the top into the module, fill in the hole in the top; etc.

But I would swear that in some context I can't recall, I saw something called "marking pins" -- though I must be wrong about the name, because I cannot find them on Google.

They were double sided pings with a flange in the middle -- the idea was that you could pace them between two pieces of wood and press them together, and the location of perfectly aligned holes would be marked on both.

My thought would be to put what I am calling the marking pin into the screw post in the bottom of the Unitrack, and press the Unitrack onto the module to mark the locations I need to drill to screw up from the bottom.

I can obvious make something that will work -- but I wonder of anyone recalls seeing a commercial product like this.

Is there such a product, is the vague recollection a symptom of my addlepated brain?

reddit.com
u/aengusoglugh — 8 days ago
▲ 3 r/TTRAK

Is ¼ expanded PVC the right height -- or at least the best fit -- to bring Walthers Concrete Street system to Kato (HO) Unitrack track height?

I asked last week about a base that would bring Walthers Concrete streets to track level for my modules.

I am modeling an urban environment, where the street crossings will be level -- I think of the humped up street crossings I see in man modules -- and in "train hitting stuck 18 wheeler" videos as distinctly rural.

In the first photograph, the track is level with the crown of the road -- in the second picture, the track in on the side of the road, and the track is a little bit higher than the road. I can't tell by how much, but you can see a little daylight.

My sense is that the rail being a little higher than the road at the edge of the road is gong to be an eyesore.

Anyone have experience with this?

u/aengusoglugh — 10 days ago
▲ 5 r/TTRAK

What ROW width do you use on your T-TRAK modules?

I have been reading about double track ROW for my commuter rail layout — I am beginning to plan first stages of scenery, and since the first modules are urban, the ROW will be fenced.

The concept of my layout is a commuter system running low floor DMUs on under utilized freight lines.

I think that is actually a prototypical scenario, see the referenced site.

I think 100’ ROW — which I think is pretty reasonable for double track freight — 7.5” in N, about 13.75” in HO will seem a bit too wide on modules.

My first inclination is 50’, but that might be a bit type.

What ROWs do you model on your T-TRAK modules? What is your thinking behind the ROW width you implemented?

bgtmrring.org
u/aengusoglugh — 12 days ago
▲ 3 r/TTRAK

How many of you run trains on T-TRAK models at home and at shows? Only at shows?

I suspect that I will mainly use my T-TRAK modules at home -- mostly because there aren't many HO scale T-TRAK layouts at shows around me. :-)

I will make it down to SC at some point, u/HomeyHal.

When attend club meetings, my impression is that a lot of folks who enjoy T-TRAK build modules at home but don't only run trains on them at shows -- but I don't know whether that's true -- at my club(s) -- or prevalent in T-TRAK.

It looks to me like you'd have to have a giant room to run an N-TRAK layout at home -- or a lot more room than I have. :-)

When I first retired, I went to some Sipping and Switching Society NC shows -- to run an S&SS layout at home, I think you would need a billionaire size home.

reddit.com
u/aengusoglugh — 14 days ago