What Max COAL have you found? I've tried several methods now and can't get consistent results with any of them. I have the best components money can buy, but I am giving up (at the moment).
I made a 3D printable spacer for those weirdos that want to use a single-stack magazine in a CTR inlet stock or chassis. It should prevent any debris from getting into the FCG.
Be advised, I've only tested it in a Woox CTR inlet mini-chassis with an OEM bottom metal and the Beretta branded Mountain Tactical aluminum bottom metal. The Woox inlet is almost certainly a bit different than an OEM stock, but it's what I had to work with. The OEM plastic bottom metal fits perfectly, but the MT/Beretta one is actually machined asymmetrically so the right side has a bit of a gap.
Requested by u/OldGoodWhisky here.
Looking for advice / recommendations for my T1x in .22lr bolt throw / knob.
I feel like a larger / longer bolt throw or just a bigger bolt knob would be helpful with my cycling. Very stiff and it really isn’t buttery smooth like my other models. Any recommendations please?
Just got a Tikka T3x Hunter in 30-06. Looking to get a scope for my Elk hunt this fall. I just haven't bought a scope in so long, I'm not sure what is good.
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Budget: <$1000
I do have access to GOVX deals.
Scopes considered so far:
- Viper PST Gen II 3-15x44 FFP EBR-7C Riflescope
- Viper HD 3-15x44 Dead-Hold BDC MOA Riflescope
- Leupold VX-3HD 3.5-10x40 CDS-ZL Illum. FireDot Twilight Hunter
Really just looking for overall recommendations or experience with these scopes.
Thanks all!
Wanted one for a while, finally got one. Tikka Ace Game in 7mm PRC.
Purchased a SilencerCo Scythe-ti and wondering what mounting solutions you all recommend. It comes with the single port ASR brake but looking for a better solution. Open to flash hider or muzzle brake. I will need to take the suppressor off when transporting as it’s just barely not long enough with the suppressor attached so any QD options would be ideal
This might be a dumb question, but id rather be safe than sorry. So I searched if I can dry fire some firearms including my CTR or TAC A1 and people recommend snap caps or dummy rounds is there a difference? This might be the dumbest of the dumb questions, but do snap caps or dummy rounds brand matter? If so id appreciate recommendations.
I just bought this T3X from EuroOptic. For the time being I'm going to take my .22LR optic, Arken SH-4J, and put it on the T3X.
I was thinking I had to get a rail but I'm seeing that you can get rings that mount directly to the dove tail?
Hi there!
Has anyone find globally avalaible bottom iron thats converts ctr-kind magazine slot to regular? Using UPR stock with Lite SS, but due to use case (hunting) and thin barrel makes no sense to use the CTR Mags and bottom iron - warms up in a breeze.
And yes, familiar with the idea of using regular ones, but they leave gaps on both sides of magazine wells and therefore not ideal.
Thanks in advance!
These seem to be not real. Can’t find one anywhere.
What’s going on with the 308? I want one real bad.
I’m ultimately going to drop it in an MDT chassis - are there other threaded 16” 308 Tikkas I can look for that are easier to find?
Hey everyone, I’m looking for some recommendations. I’m planning on either taking a factory rifle a building it up, or doing a completely custom build. My budget is about $2,500 for the rifle either without an optic. This is for big game, so 300 win/WSM or 7mm are most likely. Preferred range is under 400 yards. I’m wanting it to be fairly light, under 8.25 lbs with an optic.
For a custom build, I’m considering using a Tikka/Sako action and pairing it with an aftermarket stock/trigger.
Side note: I’m considering buying a Weatherby 307 or Fierce Rogue to save myself some time. I also dabble in hand loading.
Any and all recommendations are welcome
Hi All! I have my first rifle, first bolt-action, and first Tikka (T1x) and I absolutely love it. But that's a lot of firsts and there's so much information out there that I wanted to run my proposed post shooting rifle cleaning process by you:
(i) run a few patches of CLP and then dry patches through the barrel, and
(ii) spray the bolt with CLP and then wipe down.
Is there anything different, or additional, that you all recommend? Thanks in advance!
I’m looking for rings to mount my Swarovski Z5+ 3.5-18x50 and can’t make up my mind between the Spuhr HP30-25A rings or the Area 419 24mm Hunt rings.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
I added a cheek riser and swapped to a lower scope mount. The riser turned out well and didn't take as long as I thought it would. I also turned some stainless pillars to get the beretta bottom metal to sit right. It was a good project and I'm mostly happy with how it turned out, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you really love MDT.
I recently picked up a CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor and have loved it so much that I decided to grab a T1X in .17 HMR to join the family.
I was able to get all 4 5-shot groups under 1" at 100 meters with the T3X. I've been trying really hard to work on trigger squeeze and not anticipating recoil. For the price, I really enjoy the Hornady American Gunner 140 grain BTHP as it is $1.50 a round locally versus the almost $2.00 per round for the 140 and 147 ELDMs.
The T1X absolutely loves the Hornady 17 grain with 5 shots stacked on top of each other at 50 meters and the 20 grain XTP were slightly larger groups.
I couldn't be happier with this duo. Hopefully soon I can take the T3X out to 600 yards at the other local range here in town.
I could be the only one confused on the models but let me see if I have this right.
The main difference, from what I can tell are the barrels.
Base t3x lite and superlite (exclusives I guess) are the same barrels just one is fluted, and obviously the stock.
Any other models (roughtech, veil, and lite exclusives) have the same D-18 barrel profile and minor differences in cerakote and stock color.
I’m looking for a new 270 replacing an older wood stock heirloom. Currently have a t3x superlite not threaded in .308 that is a tack driver.