Does anybody know where to find cheap replacement buttons with a cable, I found ones on AliExpress but all with 20cm cables, which is to short because it should be 60cm
All those resell sites charge crazy amounts
Hey everyone,
I’ve got a weird VanMoof issue and I’m a bit stuck.
It seems the battery is completely dead. The bike won’t wake up, won’t charge, and the kick lock stays engaged. I can’t unlock it or take it apart.
This is the standard S1 frame layout. I don’t really know what to do except maybe cut through the chain down to the lock itself and drill out the core.
Hi all, I managed to repair some S3/X3 batteries with new fuses and the 150ohm resistors. But now the battery of my son’s bike has a complete dead BMS. The regular repair parts (fuses, mosfets,etc) are all ok but no response from the BMS, no communication between cartridge and battery (I am sure cartridge and socket are ok)
Anybody found the magic of the reviving the BMS?
Hey everyone,
I’m having a strange issue with my VanMoof X3 and I honestly can’t figure out where the problem is because I’m not getting any consistent error code anymore.
The motor sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t. Occasionally it gives assistance, but it feels weak and I don’t think the bike is reaching the normal 25 km/h anymore. Other times the motor barely responds at all.
I also sometimes hear a faint buzzing/hissing sound coming from inside the frame. I already checked some connectors and measured a few things, but I’m still not sure if this is:
- the wiring harness
- motor cable
- hall sensors
- controller/MOSFET issue
- or something else
No clear Error 44 at the moment, which makes diagnosing harder.
I added a video of the current situation. Any help, ideas, or things I should test would really be appreciated!
Hi all, US based S3 with a little over 1,100 mi (1770 km) and starting to hear a creak while pedaling. I’ve done some looking around on the forums and I suspect it may be the bottom bracket? Wondering if anyone else has encountered this.
I have a cartridge which gives me error 2 or 20. I noticed some arcing on one of the pins and sanded it away (see second pic). Afterwards it’s still a bit grey at this area but I think there should be enough contact. Now when I’m inserting it just shows „Error“ without any specific number.
Is it even related to the arcing on the pins and I should now switch the socket?
Or does it need deeper inspection of my cartridge as it is another electronic issue? usually Error 20 indicates a problem with the motor, battery or the harness. But it is the cartridge that’s causing it for me.
one of my bikes seems to be bending this pin when insterting the cartridge. After some bending back and forth it broke. This is a cartridge with custom firmware on it which enables 37kmh on the newest update so I‘d still like to use it. This exact pin controls the connection to the kicklock - without it I cannot unlock the bike. Any ideas how I can replace/repair that?
I experimented a lot yesterday with different batteries and cartridges and turns out this cartridge gives error 2 or 20 (depending on the frame I use). These error codes usually indicate a problem between battery & motor but after lots of different combination of parts I can for sure say it is the cartridges problem. What I noticed is some „oxidation“ in the top right big pin. I noticed this problem on a working cartridge on the same pin as well but not to these same extend. Anyone know what causes this and can it be in relation with error 2/20? Can I repair this or do I need to do something else to get rid of the error codes?
im removing my front fork but want to keep the break cable inside the fork so I don’t need to worry about guiding a new one through the fork. Is it possible to remove the break cable from the handlebar. I cannot manage to open it right at the break eventhough it looks like I could. Or is it not possible and I need to cut it?
Hey guys, I wanted to figure out what’s causing Error 45 (no motor support). I found the location of the broken cable: right inside the fork tube. Do you think I’d get proper access to the broken cable just by separating the fork from the frame? Should it be possible to solder that spot and reinforce it with a small plastic tube?
Or would soldering still not really be possible without removing the whole wiring harness? I’d really like to avoid that shitty job 😂
It takes me almost three months to finish this project, but it turns out pretty nice e
The bike was completely stripped and got a new paint job in glossy white with a new decal in brushed aluminum dark green.
All components bin cleaned, serviced, painted and polished.
New tires are Schwalbe road cruiser in 28X1.75 with white walls.
Front and rear break caliper are brand new from Dia-Compe.
And for a digital upgrade the cockpit got a Beeline Velo 2.
こんにちは。
私は朝から出かけようと、x3に乗ったのですが、漕ぎ始めて、突然4速にはいり、止まっても１速に戻らなくなった。再起動、リセット、共に１速には戻るけどその後は4足のままで、再起動しないと１速に戻らなくなったので、リアホイールを外してフロントホイール回したところ電子的な作用はしてるみたいで、ハブ側のシフター用のギアが、遊び？が多いように思うのですが、どうでしょうか？動画あげてみたのでアドバイスください！
それとそのギアの向きもズレてる気がしてます。
eシフターが綺麗におさまりません。
よろしくお願いします。