r/WR250R

Hey yall. I am currently running a 13/47 sprocket combo. I enjoy it much better than the stock 13/43. I am currently running tusk d sport adventure tires. A 90/90/21 front and 130/90/18 in the rear. I wanted to try the 130 out and I am not a fan so I will be switching back to a 120. Before I had dunlop d606 tires in the same size I have in the tusk now, and they seemed to be much lighter and more nimble. Upon switching to the tusk, the bike felt more sluggish and lost about 3-5 mph top speed wise. Once I switch to the 120 tusk tire and see how it feels, I am also contemplating going up to a 50 tooth sprocket in the rear. I ride highway every now and then but am trying to get as much pull from the bike as possible. I have all the standard power mods, full fmf exhaust, fuel programmer, hi flow air filter, flapper box mod, and weight reduction such as AIS delete, charcoal canister delete, tail tidy, smaller front flashers etc. I would like to hear yalls input on 13/50 gearing with similar power mods and how it rides on the highway. Worst case scenario I can always switch back to the 47. Any input would be appreciated!

Sounds a lil noisy to me I’m thinking tensioner.

Noob mistake

My Yamaha WR250x 2008 when sat outside in the sun for hours on very hot 30+ degrees days the fuel pump doesn't prime and the bike doesn't start. Once I leave it to cool down the bike starts on the button no issues at all I hear the pump prime. I have been warned this is the start of a bigger problem and the fuel pump will fail all together at some point and is risky to keep using. The WR250x and WR250r are known for failing fuel pumps and apparently have two updated pumps released after the known issues with the original fuel pumps.

I'm in the UK and it seems impossible to find a pump I contacted a local Yamaha parts dealer and they want £597.00.

Options -

1. OEM Fuel pump and housing - £597.00 Yamaha UK.

2. Buy pump only - Quantum, KEMSO, or All Balls and try to put into original housing I understand it could be brittle not easy to do and plastic housing could snap.

3. Replace with the Chinese Fuel pump unsure about that and can't find much information online regarding success.

4. Import new from Japan around £320.00 before shipping and 20% UK taxes and handling fees etc.

5. Buy a Chinese Fuel pump and replace it with a better fuel pump like Quantum if I snap the original housing. Unsure how easy or different that would be and even if it's worth the hassle.

6. Buy used working fuel pump rare to find and seems impossible to ship due to fuel contamination.

Honestly what have people done and honest advice?

Hello everyone,

On my wr 450 f the clutch was stuck to the shaft as the title suggested. The clutch suddenly engaged after a drive in high temp, and didnt let go since then. i found the problem, but also not really.

I have openend up my bike and after removing the crank case and the insides of the clutch i could lift the clutch itself off. It was somehow tightenend to the shaft, but i dont know why. Because after i removed the clutch, and put it back, everything seems to be working again. the shaft moves freely without noise or resistance without clinging on to the clutch.

my issue is that i dont know why it became stuck in the first place, and im afraid it will happen again. its a road bike, this is very dangerous. If you have any idea why this happened pls let me know as i have no idea and the manual doesnt help me anymore either. my first question would be whether the copper colored plates (pic 2)on the insides are fitted with bearings? but i have no clue what else the problem could be. any comment or help is appreciated!

thanks in advance

2015 but acquired about 2 years ago. It was stolen last year and I got it back and swapped the ignition. The noise has been happening for a few months now, getting worse and I don’t want to ignore it for it to become detrimental. Don’t know much about mechanics so pictures, drawings, descriptive language is very helpful. Here’s the video for reference. Thank you for any and all help.