r/WaterWellDrilling

Image 1 — Need Advice! Two Pipe Deep Well Jet System in Crawlspace
Image 2 — Need Advice! Two Pipe Deep Well Jet System in Crawlspace
Image 3 — Need Advice! Two Pipe Deep Well Jet System in Crawlspace
Image 4 — Need Advice! Two Pipe Deep Well Jet System in Crawlspace
Image 5 — Need Advice! Two Pipe Deep Well Jet System in Crawlspace
Image 6 — Need Advice! Two Pipe Deep Well Jet System in Crawlspace
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Image 8 — Need Advice! Two Pipe Deep Well Jet System in Crawlspace
Image 9 — Need Advice! Two Pipe Deep Well Jet System in Crawlspace
▲ 4 r/WaterWellDrilling+1 crossposts

Need Advice! Two Pipe Deep Well Jet System in Crawlspace

I bought a house about 5 years ago that has what I assume is an old deep well jet system in the crawlspace. The house was built in the early 50s and has since been converted to municipal water and sewer. The well has exclusively been used for irrigation and the spigot on the exterior of the home.

The past few years I have started to take lawn care seriously and have come to realize the underground irrigation system was a DIY special and has some obvious flaws. 4 zones ranging from 5-7 heads per zone and had 3-5gpm nozzles in the rotors. When activating my system this spring the tech mentioned that I would likely benefit from a newer, higher flow/pressure pump. So I started to look into it. I asked the landscape company for a quote and I crawled under the house to take a look for myself. The old pump is a Water Ace RC5 Tank Mounted Jet System with a 7 gallon diaphragm pressure tank. I was quoted roughly $1300 dollars and the pump they included in the quote appears to be a flotec thermoplastic 1hp sprinkler pump (model #: WBB2225035). After some more research I shared concerns with the company about that pumps compatibility with my current well system and was assured by the manager of the irrigation team that it would work perfectly. The manager has personally been out here to perform work on the existing system. After some more pushback about the compatibility I was told if it was not compatible I would not be charged for it, as he was certain it would work.

I did some more digging and found out I was getting 10gpm at roughly 25psi from the spigot right off the pump. I decided to hold off on the replacement and instead replaced every single cheap orbit sprinkler head with hunter pgp ultras and 1.5gpm nozzles. That alone seemed to improve the performance of the system pretty well and I figure if I needed a new pump down the road at least I have quality sprinkler heads.

Fast forward to today and I have hit that crossroad. I noticed the irrigation would not turn on, and the spigot would not produce any water. I crawled under the house to find the pump not making any noise and is at 0psi. I believe it is cooked.

I want to improve to system to run at least 12gpm and 45 psi. Do I go ahead with the flotec replacement from the landscape company since I am not out any money if it doesn’t work? I have not been able to find any well records for my property. I checked with the township, the county, the health department, and the state. There are numerous well records from properties within a 1-2 block radius that have the static water level between 7-15 feet, and total well depth from 20-36ft. If this is truly a deep well jet system with the ejector in place can I cap the smaller drive line and use the larger suction line to run to the flotec pump if the static water level is indeed that shallow? If it is indeed being ran as a deep well jet system to I replace the pump with the same make and hp and keep the ejector assembly since it would be almost impossible to pull up from the crawlspace? The last thing I want is to convert my irrigation to municipal water and get bent over every summer on my bill. I’d almost rather drill a new well if that would make more sense. Any thoughts, comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

u/sdavis75 — 13 hours ago

Low pressure ?

Hey all,
The other day my fiancé filled a 300 gallon kitty pool, went to use the faucet and nothing came out. Waited about 20 minutes and water came out slowly and then eventually back to what seems like normal pressure. I checked the gauge downstairs and it’s stuck right at 25psi. Now I’m not sure what it was previously but reading around this seems to be low. When I run water everything seems normal but the gauge doesn’t move at all.
Could this be normal operation at this pressure?

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u/Fxd_charlie — 13 hours ago

Pressure tank capacity

Hi all,

Apologies if this is not the best place to ask this question.

Live on well septic. Currently have a 20 gal tank. Am getting some work done and trying to figure out if I upgrade to larger tank or leave it.

The installer teed off the exterior faucet lines after the water softener and charcoal filter tanks. I’m going to have someone fix this. Also running another exterior faucet line to the far side of the house as there is currently 1 exterior faucet.

House is about 4000 sq ft. Family of 3. Water softener and charcoal filter tanks. Highest water use is in the summer for gardening and watering lawn. I do not have an irrigation system.

Thanks in advance,

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u/Significant-Coast832 — 14 hours ago
▲ 3 r/WaterWellDrilling+1 crossposts

Need help with large pond pump setup that I believe was incorrectly planned.

SPECS:

Centrifugal pump rated for 13,200gph (220gpm)

pump is elevated 2 feet higher than top of the ponds water line.

pump is connected via 2" pvc sch40 pvc.

the input run from pond to the pump is at least 150feet. 2" pvc. It includes a backflow prevented and about five 90 degree elelbows.

The run back to the pond (output) is also 150feet via 2" pvc pipe. The output is level with the input on a different side of the pond.

There is also a high pressure bio filter and a UV system that is connected on the return line back to the pond.

More info:

Im currently dealing with a professionally installed 10,000 gallon pond that the pump setup just does not work correctly. i believe that the setup was planned out incorrectly. I am by no means an expert on these setups but from what ive been able to gather this setup should not work.

i can get it primed and get it running but the pump sounds like its eating rocks. The vibration from the cavitation is very concerning. I had originally suspected air leaking into the input, but i have sense pressure tested the input line and it holds pressure without issue.

Before I declare a system that was installed by a professional company as incorectly done, i would like some input from real people (not ai) that know what they are doing. I know next to nothing about these systems, so i would appreciate any help. i can provide more info if needed.

ps: The pump is a Sequence 13200pwr81

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Control board burn out

We have a deep well pump and every few years the control board burns out. Thoughts on what might be causing this? Low voltage due to long power run? Water from snow melt? Other?

u/mountain_hank — 3 days ago
▲ 6 r/WaterWellDrilling+1 crossposts

Franklin Electric Subdrive Utility Interference

Anybody install a Subdrive Utility and get interference with other appliances on the same service? Every LED in my customer's house buzzes when the thing kicks on. Grounding is good, unit is configured correctly for the pump, brand new conductors, no voltage dip when the unit kicks on.

FE said to install one of their input/output filters - no change. Then they said to install their input only filter - no change. They were the only house on the load side of the utility transformer but I would suspect one unit could cause this to happen in multiple houses if they were on the same transformer.

u/PumpNPumpAccessories — 3 days ago

Where to start fixing my system?

Living in south Florida, we have a shallow well only for irrigation. It’s been a while but I think it’s a 2in line and feeds into a 1 1/2hp well pump with digital manifold for the zones. Since it’s the summer, I kinda expected water to be limited but I noticed earlier today that my pop up sprinklers were barely out of the housing.

I doubt there’s a break in the line/zone so my guess is either: 1) the pump is wearing out (\~5 year old) or 2) the shallow well is dry/compromised. I can’t really dig a new well, I’d like to save the $500 bill for the new pump if possible, and really don’t want to use city water for irrigation but what are my options to start pinpointing my issue? We don’t really do maintenance on any of the equipment (first time we owned a well pump) so idk if we dropped the ball and there are preventative measures we can take.

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u/AggressivelyAwkward — 4 days ago

I think my pump is dying

I have a 30’ deep handdug well that feeds my home, I’ve noticed low pressure when using outdoor spickets especially if we had 2 going at the same time for the last year. Today while showering my water cut off completely, then after about 5 minutes of me checking breakers and water level (none popped) I had water again.
Within the last few months I’ve replace the pressure switch and checked tank pressure.

It’s maybe 5-6 ft below the water line in the picture so there should be roughly 20’ of water below.

Anyone have experience replacing these pumps? How big of a pain will it be? Also, how do I size the pump, I believe it’s a 4 inch casing.
TIA

u/coryswang — 5 days ago
▲ 3 r/WaterWellDrilling+1 crossposts

Need help in Maine

We need a well installed on our property, but have limited access getting in and out of our driveway. We have called multiple companies in the area, but they all have larger trucks. One company did come to look. His truck was 36 1/2 feet. He said if his rig were 2 feet shorter, he could make it. So far, we haven't found anyone with a smaller truck. We are continuing my search, but what can we do if we don't find a smaller rig. How else can we have a well put in? Wells around here tend to be around 200 ft deep due to the fact that we are on larger stream. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

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u/galdoof — 6 days ago
▲ 19 r/WaterWellDrilling+1 crossposts

Sand Point and Pitcher Pump - There's Water But I Can't Pull It Up

TLDR - I've found water at 5 feet down, I installed a sand point well and a pitcher pump, but the pitcher pump fails to pull up any water. After pulling out all the air from the line the pump feels like it's just stuck, and the lever just gets really hard to pump, like I'm pulling on a clogged pipe. There's water, the pipe isn't clogged, but still no luck.

Edit Update: This whole project actually started with me driving the sandpoint down to 20 feet with 5-foot sections of pipe. Same problem down at that depth. I pulled it up with a floor jack and retested at each 5-foot depth and same problem. Used the jetter, cleaned out the mud, etc... everytime I hit the same issue with the pitcher pump.

I have a property with an existing well (18-feet deep) and a submersible pump. I can get water out of there if I run my generator, and that well has been working just fine for the past 100 years (family homestead). Now that I've taken stewardship of the property I decided I'd like a backup hand-pump so I went the simplest route with a sand point. The soil is sandy loam and very easy to drive pipe into. I was able to drive about a foot of pipe down every minute.

I bought the Water Source 3-foot sand point with the 80-mesh screen, and also the Water Source red pitcher pump. After driving the point down with a single 5-foot section I hit water at 5-feet down. I let it sit for a couple weeks and came back with the pitcher pump and checked again - found standing water at 5-feet down.

By my calculations, I drove the sand point down to 6-feet at the top, and 9-feet at the bottom (because it's a 3-foot well point) so that the top of the well point is 1-foot below the top water level.

The pipe is connected with the drive coupler, I used pipe dope, I tightened all the connections so even bujeezus couldn't undo it - they're air-tight.

After hooking up the pitcher pump, priming it, letting it get wet and the leather parts swelling for 20 minutes, I start to pump and I can hear it all working to pull air out. After about a minute I can feel more and more resistance on the lever, until finally it's really hard to push down. At that point I can pull it down but it just jumps back up like a stiff spring, feels very much like there's a vacuum just sucking the piston back down.

At first I thought maybe the screen was clogged, so I did these steps several times:

  • Ran a garden hose down at the bottom of the pipe watching the water go from super muddy to rather clear over the course of 3 minutes
  • Took my pressure washer (Harbor Freight 1750) with the mini-jetter kit and jetted out the pipe from top to bottom, and let it run for 10 minutes. I focused on the bottom 3-feet to jet out the mud if possible.
  • Sealed off the pipe at the top with an NPT-GHT connecter, and connected a garden hose that's at 35 PSI and just turned it out to pressurize the inside of the pipe to push anything else out

I then hooked up the pitcher pump again and exact same issue - I pump until it gets hard to pump, and then there's a solid vacuum pulling back down on the piston and I can't pull water up.

Then I did these things:

  • Took 2 weeks away and left the pipe open. When I came back water level was at 5 feet down again
  • Pulled up the pipe and drive point entirely to inspect - everything looking fine, I pressure washed everything and got it clean and tidy, and then shoved it back down in the hole (didn't take much, the hole was still there no problem)
  • Re-jetted, re-pressurized, then re-assembled the pitcher pump and tried it again

Still no luck!! I even pulled the well point up a foot, pushed it down a foot, thinking maybe I'm off with my calculations, etc.

There is water down there as evidenced by my dipstick showing it's wet, and my bobber on a string making water splashing noises at the same depth. If I drop a rock in there it goes "sploosh".

I've watched ALL the youtube videos on the topic, I've taken apart the pitcher pump and inspected everything - gaskets, bolts, etc.

What am I doing wrong? Is it possible my pitcher pump is defective? Something weird with the sand point that all the youtube videos didn't point out?

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

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u/Low-Layer7281 — 6 days ago

A drilled well will be done soon- July, what kind of things should I request?

I'm in Northern New York State. I will be building home next year. Wells in this area are generally 100 - 200ft deep and they tend to have iron and occasionally sulfur. The soil is sand, no rocks. The well driller is charging $35 per ft, casing $45 per ft, and $1950 for dive shoe, well cap, drill rig setup. If I want a temporally water pump, all that is extra and I'll have to use a generator to draw the water. The house won't be built until next year, so I'm thinking not to have the pump installed yet...is that a good or bad idea??? I won't be able to tell if my well is any good if, I'm not using it.

I've never been through this process and don't know what questions to ask, about the materials, hopefully it's steel casing and not plastic, etc??? Would appreciate any advise.

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u/StoreCalm9404 — 6 days ago

Protecting the well power circuit from the power company

I have a rural well, located in north Florida. Well was drilled in 1992. Driller told me he went to 62-ft. Well has a 4-inch submersible pump, which at the time it was drilled was believed to be pumping 20-25 GPM. Submersible is at the bottom of two 21-ft sections of supply line pipe, the top extends 1-ft to the tank coupling, so believed to be 41-ft below grade. Pump has worked well, other than a lightning strike in 2003 which blew the insulation off the wires at the static water level. That caused arcing. Well driller pulled the pump. He replaced the electric motor (pictured above) and the wires. Other than a pump start cap, it has worked good since then. Local electric coop is beginning to exhibit power blinks, and occasional power outages. To protect the well from those, I'm going to install a delay timer, so that when the power goes down, it will stay down until a delay elapses with solid clean power (probably 2-3 mins). To do this I need to know about both the run current and the motor start surge current. Motor says 8 AMP, 0.75 KW. The fuse block on the well circuit is 50A (which might be overkill). Help me to figure out the real current numbers. Thanks in advance.

u/cosmicrae — 8 days ago

Short cycling.

Our well is used primarily just for watering around the house. The house itself is on rural community water.

We haven’t used the well since last fall.
We have had plenty of rain over the last several months so the water table should be quite high.

I hooked up one sprinkler to the well yesterday to start watering the lawn. Just one little round sprinkler with about a ten foot throw. After a few minutes, I saw that it was short cycling. The pump kicks on a 40psi and kicks off at 60psi. And it cycles after only a minute so.

We have had this problem for several years. But usually it’s late in the summer in drought conditions. Not this early and after plenty of rain.

In my research I have found two possible issues.

  1. The pump (which I believe is 1.25hp) may be producing more water than one sprinkler can handle, so it keeps short cycling due to too much pressure. Maybe it will do better if we use more sprinklers at a time so that demand will meet the pump’s supply.

  2. Possible issue with the pressure tank. The tank is only about 5 years old. I THINK it is bladderless. Is it possible that I should drain the tank, pull the shraeder valve to exhaust all air, reinstall valve, and turn on the pump again to refill and pressurize?
    Might that help?

I’d appreciate any suggestions.

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u/Kensterfly — 8 days ago

Water rushing in new well.

Is this normal for an aquifer? We had a well (143 feet, western PA) for our new build done two weeks ago and you can still hear water rushing. Driller was happy with the well, but only thought the water you could hear was from a small pocket at the halfway point filling the well. It didnt look like he ever hit a void or mentioned one so I would like to think we didnt hit a mine. The water during the yield looked pretty clean short of being muddy from drilling.

Once we get our electric hooked up he's coming back out for the pump and pressure tank so I'll pick his brain then but I didnt feel like bothering him right now.

u/NUNG457 — 8 days ago

Problems with New Submersible Pump

Hello, first-time poster in this sub. I just had to replace all the 70 year old galvanized steel pipes by digging up and running a new line in the 40-ish feet between the well and the house. The well guys installed a submersible to replace the jet pump (location in middle of home) and connected using PEX. Since then, the well has been short-cycling every 3.5 mins, which we reported and they checked out. They blame the diaphragm tank from 2003, which we didn’t replace, but say the new pump probably did her in.

However, this happened on Tuesday, and we’re experiencing that our mud soup lawn is getting… soupier. Which seems like the opposite of what should be happening given that it’s June and hasn’t rained in days. The soil is clay, the well is about 40 ft and hasn’t ever run dry. Anyone who actually knows anything about wells have any thoughts about the babbling brook?

u/spookyscaryscouticus — 8 days ago

Is there an alternitive to emergency water pumping?

Like a hand pump or generator?

I have a 8 inch casing (at the top) well that is sealed. If i lost power and needed water, how could i draw water from the well? Its a 260 foot well

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u/shootist_Biker — 9 days ago

Old abandoned well?

Goes down about 20 feet before I can see water down the 4 inch PVC, which is inside a 6 inch pvc. It doesn't seem very deep. The 4 inch wiggles, but I can't pull it out. Then there's the possible pump and 1 inch pvc on the left. Trying to figure out what I should do with this. We have a 300 foot well in an aquifer about 1000 feet away. I can't see any record of another well on the property besides the one we are using now per dept of ecology records.

u/justin1390 — 8 days ago

Well System Operation Questions

Hopefully someone can shed some light on whats going on here and tell me if its a problem or just a minor annoyance.

Whats happening: The system is primed at 70psi. You start using water. The pressure goes down. Cut in pressure is set to 60psi. Drive kicks on. Pressure keeps dropping. Drops all the way down to about 15psi. I've counted and it takes about a solid 10s from the time the drive kicks on until water gets up to the pressure tank. Basically the "problem" is how long its taking the water to reach the house.

The system: I just bought the house about 18 months ago and I'm new to wells so here's what I know. Well was drilled in '09. From what I know its the original pump. Unsure of the size but based on the well depth and how the drive is setup I'd guess 1.5hp. Well is 620ft deep. Pump is at 320ft with a static level of 275ft (in '09). Well yield was 40gpm and pump was producing 10gpm. The original drive took a shit on me last fall and I had a Franklin Electric Subdrive Connect installed. I've got the cutout pressure set at 70psi and the cut in pressure set at 60psi. Pressure tank is set at 58psi. I set a 10psi difference just so I can get the drive started sooner to reduce the pressure drop. I can't remember if this problem was happening with the old drive or started with the new one.

Obviously I'm trying to self diagnose without paying a well company to come in thats gonna tell me they can't do anything without pulling the pump for an inspection. So the only thing I've done myself is check the check valves. I shut off the valve after the manifold and killed the drive. Did this at 5am and when I came home at 7pm (14hrs later) the pressure had only dropped 1psi. I'd assume that means the check valves are good(ish)?

What else could be my problem here?

u/Ptrick21186 — 12 days ago