is this fake? i got it from amazon, the store says artic, 1800 orders on it, but came with no authenticity code where its meant to be, no sticker on the box either.
Hi guys. I am curios and ask you.
It this temp good on ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III 360 Pro ? (thermal paste MX-7)
I run OCCT Power stability test.
In Idle office work temp are around 60-70 Celsia. Open browser Chrome around 40-50 tabs.
BIOS Set up curve optimizer is set to all cores - negative -30 value.
PBO limit set on Motherboard.
Max CPU Boost Clock override(+) is enabled-positive +50 Mhz value.
Thanks for letting know
Durning gaming at 1440p, with a 240hz frame cap, should the temps be 60c with a peak 71? I left a stress test on for about 30 minutes and it peaks at 80 but never climbs. Idle around 40c. Do these seems normal for arctic freezer III? running a 7800x3d with the 360 rad in front of the case. These are roughly the same I was getting on air with a Noctua DH-15 I thought it would be a little better?
Hello all, installed my Arctic freezer three a while ago and I’m booting up hell let loose Vietnam. Which I believe in requires a ton of shader compilation in the beginning of the game but it pulls 156W on my CPU with 100% usage, and the CPU is at 95°, it is a 9800X3D. Is this normal or is it mounted wrong? What’s going on here?
Title. I’m building my first pc in the Hyte y70 case and want to use these in the bottom and some cosmiq fans on the radiator but the fans doesn’t seem to able to be connected (power-wise) without the cable in the aio tube.
Is there a solution to this or do I just have to bite the bullet and use these on the radiator and the cosmiq in the bottom where they won’t be visible?
Installed OpenRGB and weny to change a colour and then all RGB lights went off. Got all them to sort of work with exception of my Arctic AIO 420. This LEDs just won't come back on. OpenRGB see them but I'm unable to them back on. I'm using a MSI Carbon x8703e motherboard.
Any suggestions?
Is the cold plate offset from its attached mounting screws? Or is the cold plate symmetrical to the screws and the offset is done with the "L" and "R" designated mounting brackets?
I mounted my cold plate with the tubes feeding the pump through the top, logo upside down, so that any air could escape to the tubes instead of being trapped in the pump. Now I'm questioning whether I messed up the hotspot offset. It's all assembled and working, idle ~40C and gaming around ~60C so I don't want to disassemble to check. The arctic webpage/manual only showed it mounted logo-upright but nothing specifying the actual offset.
I love Artic products, so much so I removed the NZXT fans in my H6 Flow case and installed every single Artic fan I could in the case.. Looks awesome, However the AIO "Magnetic" just isnt as bright as i would like it to be. Everything else is popping and it just looks dull and tired. It doesn't look bad in the picture but in person its just not great. Anyone noticed this too?
What did you do to fix it/did you cover it up with one of those 2.8 LCD screens?
Main things I am considering is noise and performance, but there is a decent amount of price difference, so what would you suggest? I heard the p12 pro are quite loud from others, but I cannot confirm that, so I came here to ask. I want the fans to add fans on every spot on the Corsair 2500D airflow. I also want to add that I have a regular P12 which can be a comparison to these options, but I wanted a argb version and a reverse option, so the P12 is not a option especially considering where I live, that the argb black version is not the easiest to get, except for paying about double for the 3 pack than the p12 pro argb. Thanks in advance
Hi, i want to ask is there any information if the P12 non Pro PWM fans will be ever available? Because i can't find them currently anywhere in my region. Currently i got the P12 Pro and i'm not a big fan of them bc they even make sounds in the low 900 RPM's. My old build used the P12 PWM never had a problem. Thats why i ask if there are only from time to time in stock or are they discontinued?
Thank you in advance for any information
I am ready to order the remaining PC parts.
Though I am worried about my Motherboard clearance and the radiator on the top mounted Arctic Freezer pro III. I would prefer to mount it on the top rather then the front.
Does anyone have a similar setup in the Momentum XL case?
Here are my BioniX P12 A-RGB 3x on top and 1x rear, with 6 P14 Reverse Pro A-RGB. Just like the P14 Reverse and P12 regular, they have quality control issues with centering the Arctic logo ring in the middle. I replaced the 3x P12 NON-PRO on my Artic Liquid Freezer III (Non-Pro).
My case is 011 vision compact m and im using a 360 arctic freezer iii pro and i wonder if this is okay
I have a few questions if anyone could help me I would appreciate it
I just builded my new pc
I got b850 aorus elite WiFi 7 I made the separate connection not the all in one I connected the vrm in cpu opt, fan in cpu fan and pump on fans4_pump but vrm doesn’t get fetched in bios and im not sure if its working
if someone can help me make the diagram ptw/temps for the pump for the best quality
rgb not working I have connected the cable in a 5V rgb slot
If you got any questions or need more details let me know
Thanks in advance !
I just unboxed my brand-new Arctic Freezer 36, but I noticed that some of the heatsink fins came visibly bent right out of the box.
I know minor fin damage usually doesn't impact thermal performance too much, but since it's a completely new purchase, I don't know what to do.
UPDATE: Quick update on the situation: I reached out to the seller, and they mentioned they couldn't offer a direct exchange, only a full return. They explained that this was just a minor cosmetic issue caused during manufacturing.
Since returning it would be a long process and there isn't really a better cooler I could buy in this price range with the refund money, I decided to keep it and use it as is. I am comfortable with this problem.
The Wait Is Over - ARCTIC’s BioniX P12/P14 A-RGB Series is here 🎉
Designed to streamline system assembly without compromising cooling performance, the BioniX P12/P14 A-RGB series combines a modular connection concept with premium lighting and high-efficiency airflow for modern PC builds 🧊
Available in 120mm & 140mm, the BioniX P12/P14 A-RGB Series's innovative Daisy-Chain System allow builders to easily connect fans together using cartridge-style Bridge Modules, meaning fewer cables and modular connection that speeds up assembly while keeping the system interior neat and organized, with optimized airflow and high static pressure that provide cooling performance comparable to the P12Pro 💨
Its 16 LEDs and a refreshed fan frame per fan combined with translucent detailing deliver vivid lighting effects and seamless synchronization through software such as SignalRGB 🎨
The entire BioniX P12/P14 A-RGB fan series is now available in the ARCTIC webshop – with a 40% discount. Also available on Amazon, eBay, and from selected partners.
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#CooledByARCTIC #ARCTICCooling #BioniXP12ARGB #BioniXP14ARGB #PCfans
The rgb on both the radiator and the cpu fans aren’t working. The fans turn on just fine and the case fans rgb light up but the AIO doesn’t. I plugged in the rgb port to the correct 5v port and even tried different ones and still nothing. Can someone give any tips or solutions they may have found?
UPDATE: It was in fact the VRM fan head that wasn’t mounted on properly, after reseating it multiple times it finally felt properly seated and turned on all the argb.
I'm aware that the Pro fans are way better in pushing air and reaching more RPM. However, I please for the silence and I'd love to experience a PC full of Noctuas fan. My concern is: temperature, especially in critical scenarios. What do you guys think? Should I do that or not?
The moment I heard Arctic is releasing fan hub with day 1 support in Linux kernel for it, I brought it just to tell them I like it and to continue doing that.
Screen of me running the arctic_fan driver for it.
I am attempting to use the split cable to control CPU fans, pump, and VRM fan separately. However, looking at the cable, the pump cable end has 4 pins while the VRM and FANS cable ends have only 2 pins. Are these cables not intended to have PWM control and RPM readings? Note: the fans do spin when plugged in, but do not give readings or respond to curves in BIOS.
