r/carburetors

I have this qft (guessing 650cfm) vacuum secondary mounted on my 350sbc victor jr s8ngle plane, and 1in 4 hole spacer, low end throttle response and hesitation was gone with the spacer, but its always had a lil midrange trouble, lets say im cruising and I snap open the throttle it hesitates for a sec then drops like a hammer and takes off, top end seems fine, whats possibly my issue (not sure the exact carb model) and i know the single plane isn't helping, going to a swap meet this weekend to try and find a cheap dual plane airgap. Thanks for looking! Last 2 pics are before I cleaned up the engine bay and added a spacer

Hi, I’ve been running into some carburator/fuel problems. For the last month, my ‘86 Volvo 740 Pierburg 2B5/7, has had a rough idle. Dropped in RPM’s, then stalled. Whenever I was driving in 4th or 5th gear and did a pull, it started stuttering as if it wasn’t getting enough air or fuel (no idea). I thought it was just a fuel issue (bcs I drove on e10 95 fuel for some time and the car had been sitting a few months before I bought it.) Changing the fuel filter, didn’t help. Usually I do everything myself, but I had no idea what the issue was.
Went to my local (classic car) mechanic, he told me that one of the compartiment in the carb wasn’t getting enough fuel, he took apart the carb, changed the gaskets etc. Turns out it didn’t help, issue remains the same.

I took my Chevy 350 to the block. It was seized from water entering through the intake. Please note, I have zero experience as a mechanic, so everything I learn to do I learn through YouTube.I was able to un-seize the motor, I honed the cylinders, replaced all the vaulves, seals, and push rods, cleaned the heads and block, and reassembled with all new fresh gaskets.

Then, I put on a brand spankin new AVS 2 Carburetor, and then I started it. It started pretty good and it sounded pretty good and then after maybe like 10-15 seconds after sounding real good, it turns off and fire shoots out the carburetor (see attached video for reference). What is wrong with it and what should I do next to help fix this?

Cant figure out my carburetor settings. Pump seems to work but i don't know for sure.

Car: 1984 Mazda 323 BD Automatic, 1.3 E3 engine.

Engine off video: https://youtube.com/shorts/ympNuPjhbDU

Ive just got the bike and its been stood a long time with ethanol fuel. When i got it, it was impossible to twist the hrottle as the throttle butterflies were gummed shut. The slides were also immobile due to the needle stuck in the emulsiin tube. They were a mess.

Ive taken the carbs off and disassembled them to individual bodies. So far i have cleaned #1 carb and all is well with the butterfly snapping shut when released.

The video is of carb #2. As you can see it takes about 3 seconds for the butterfly to close. Do i just need more carb cleaner? A different solvent? Is there any danger if damaging the seal that the butterfly shaft sits in?

How do i move forwards without damaging the seal to the butterfly shaft?

Thanks

I have bought an unloved cbr400rrn from 1992. In cleaning the carbs, i discovered a perished diaphragm.

The diaphragm seems to be sandwiched firmly between two parts of the slide. Does the slide unscrew? I must be missing something as the needle isnt able to be removed, making me think that there is a part trapping both the diaphragm and holding the needle.

Can anyone help?

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Hi everyone,

I have a 1999 Yamaha XV535 Virago and I'm trying to confirm the correct needle clip positions for the two carburetors.

I recently opened the carburetors because I found that the needle assembly was not properly secured. One of the springs/retaining parts was missing, and the needle was loose inside the slide. I fixed the assembly and installed everything correctly again.

The problem is that I don't know what the original clip positions were. When I reassembled them, I put both needle clips in the same position.

According to the service manual, my needles are:

Front cylinder: 5DZ13-2

Rear cylinder: 5DZ14-2

The manual seems to show the needle codes, but it isn't very clear about the individual clip position for each needle.

After putting both clips in the same position, the bike became much better at mid and high RPM. I can ride at around 140 km/h and it runs very well overall. However, at low RPM it now has a noticeable flat spot/hesitation when opening the throttle, and sometimes it gives a small jerk/bump when I decelerate and then open the throttle again, especially at low speed.

Before I fixed the loose needle assembly, I didn't notice this particular jerk/behavior, although the bike was definitely weaker and the carburetor was not working correctly.

I have already adjusted the pilot mixture and synchronized the carburetors, and the idle is now much better. The remaining issue is mainly the low-speed throttle response.

So my main question is:

What is the correct factory needle clip position for the 5DZ13-2 on the front cylinder and the 5DZ14-2 on the rear cylinder of a 1999 XV535?

I found some information saying 5DZ13 = position 3 and 5DZ14 = position 4, but I don't know if that applies to my 1999 model/year or only to certain markets/versions.

Does anyone have a 1998–1999 XV535, preferably the same market/version, and can confirm the original clip positions?

Thanks!

This little nozzle in my fingers that screws into this Holley 94/7RT for a ford F-1 Flathead V8 for the vacuum line, I cannot figure out where to find a replacement/what it is called/part number?

For context, the truck was having issues starting, timing was ok and spark was sparking so I rebuilt the original carb that was on the truck and found that this nozzle was in a little wonky/sideways/was maybe rethreaded to fit. It was my grandfathers truck and he has passed so I can’t ask him what happened unfortunately but there was some sealant applied around the threads.

Anyway, I bought a replacement carb (shown in picture) and was going to clean and swap the middle section into the “old” one. The old nozzle for the vacuum line won’t thread into the “new” one.

So, I’m looking for information on where I might find a proper replacement for this small component.

Just rebuilt the carb on my 2004 Husaberg 450, and as i connected the tank and throttle i saw that the acc pump was spraying anything, took a while but i think i got it figured out, the last part of the action the valve right before the last spray jet is clogged because that’s the only part where i can’t get anything through, i used a bunch of carb clean but no luck, i couldn’t be bothered to keep trying so for now the plan is to put the rest of the bike tg and try to start it, if it works and everything else is sorted out then i’ll invest more time and money into this thing but atp im just tired of it sitting in the garage, been almost a year since it last ran before it blew up… Anyone have the same problem and how did you fix it? Next step is probably hot water if that doesn’t work i’ll have to find somebody with a ultrasonic cleaner or buy one…

Long story short: my grandpa died and left me a “36 Jag replica that has a 2.3L Ford engine in it. For some reason, he put a “67 Autolite 2100 carb on it.

I bought a carb rebuild kit and cleaned it all up, but now I’m struggling with getting the accelerator pump over travel spring on properly ( see pic for reference). Can any one suggest a video or share a good visual or guidance on how this spring is supposed to go? I’ve watched several of Mike Carburetor Parts’ videos and none have shown me this quite yet.

This is my first rebuild project and it has been a blast! This car hasn’t been on the road in 20 years and I’m excited to see it move again. Thank you for helping me get it back on the road!

Howdy Studebaker fans

I’m rebuilding an AS for a customer with a studebaker. His unit is missing the connecting clip that goes between the metering rod and accelerator pump arm.

Ignore the c clip on the accelerator pump. It was temporary until I found the right size.

Does anyone have an idea for a source or alternative method to connect them? I haven’t even found a picture of one to try and make an alternative.

Hi, so it's my first US car, and I'm trying to learn from the ground up since in EU, it's not common knowledge. It's on an 305 or 350 Chevrolet El Camino 1977, and I don't think it's a quadrajet? Is it worth restoring, or should I just buy a quadrajet ? Thank you for your help!

Added fresh gas and a new battery. With some starting fluid she started up and after revving it idles great now. Only issue is it won’t start without the spray. Trying to learn about carburetors now.

What carb is this fitted with?
I have a video of it running but idk how to add that.

Anyone know if this is a marine or automotive carb. I found it online. I’m looking for a carb for my 454. It looks like it’s in ok shape but I’m new to carb engines. I see it is missing a vent tube for the bowl. But what else do I look for when buying a carb. Thanks

What is this gap hole on this part for? Do it make a difference or should I keep the original one? This go down inside the bowl area on the carburetor.. I rebuilt my other carb but this kit came with this piece that’s is different.. currently rebuilding the carb for my son cutlass.. thanks!

There is hot glue holding this plug in the carb and hot glue in the hole that lines up over the primer push button. What is going on here lol