r/climbingshoes

Advice on Madrock drone 2.0

So I just bought a pair of madrock drone 2.0s LV. Before this I have been using Scarpa drago LV in a size 8 US. These for me are a bit baggy around the heel and toes so when I bought the drones I dropped down to 7.5 US. My problem right now is that my left foot slides on the drones with a little bit of struggle, but they fit like a glove around everything. My right foot is a little bigger though and it’s a struggle to put the shoe on. If I put my foot in a plastic bag it slides in but it’s still a bit of a struggle. They both fit seemingly perfect it’s just hard to get my feet in. They do also hurt around the heel and pinkie toe (only on the right foot). Should I a) size up half a size b) try to keep breaking them in and see if they fit better or c) switch to the HVs? Please let me know because I’m not sure how much these shoes will change when they break in.

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u/InternetThen6398 — 19 hours ago

La Sportiva Women’s Tarantulace vs Tarantula Models

My girlfriend is fairly new to climbing and so am I. She needs to get a pair of shoes and is interested in a Tarantula model because everybody says they’re great for beginners. I want to get her a good beginner shoe that can do it all. I am also interested in a shoe that can handle outdoor terrain. Is a tarantula the way to go or should we look at a few other options first?

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u/Scary-Schedule-8423 — 14 hours ago

Mandalas, TN finity or flagship?

Hi everyone,

I am in doubt what should be my next shoe.

I have now: UP tn pro and flagship pro, LS ondra and solution comps, evolv zenist and some others I don't use.

I only boulder indoors and seem to love semi stiff shoes. E.g. the flagships pros and the zenist I find soft.

I had the normal flagships and I loved them but I think it may have been due to them being my third pair ever.

I currently mostly use the TN pro and the solution. Comps (with RH rubber resoled).

Even though money is not an issue, the finity are like 200 euros while the mandalas 135 and the flagships 150. Would like the best out of the buck.

Thank you for making my choice easier

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Shoe upgrade recommendations

I am slowly getting back into climbing after a long break. Climbing almost exclusively outdoors and a mix of sport and trad. Mostly between grades 16-22 (ewbanks). My current shoes are a battered pair of tarantulaces... And it's time for an upgrade.

I'm really looking for something with a moderate downturn and quite stiff but open with that. Comfortable enough for long multi pitch climbs. My street size is a 38, don't care if it's unisex or women's specific. Budget is preferably <AUD$350.

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u/MingusWit — 1 day ago
▲ 28 r/climbingshoes+1 crossposts

Free Anasazi Blancos and Pinks US size 6.5/ EU 39

Hey guys,

I found these in my closet today. They're like new have never been climbed in. I'm never gonna use them so I'm giving them away to someone who will. They're size 6.5 mens, EU 39. Please only claim them if you'll actually use them.

Here's some pics: https://imgur.com/a/iz60k5t

I'll ship anywhere in the lower 48 of the US or you can pick them up from me locally if you're near Olympia, WA.

If interested leave a comment and PM me. Thanks.

u/Plenty_Rub81 — 1 day ago

Are the rubbers really that different from each other?

Do you really notice that much difference between rubber compounds? I've only ever used Vibram, and I don't notice much difference between Edge and Grip.

For example, I resoled a Solution with Edge, and their performance is almost the same. I weight aprox 62kg.

But sometimes I read comments that it's like night and day between Vibram compounds, or compared to other brands.

What do you think?

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u/Beautiful_Leave_4026 — 2 days ago

Advice on second pair to compliment Dragos

Hi all,

I bought Dragos three months ago for indoor bouldering and I absolutely love them.

I’m considering doing more outdoor climbing and was wondering what would be a good shoe to get? I want this shoe to also be suitable for occasional indoor climbing.

I’ve also noticed that my dragons are a lot a little bit slippery on slabs and wondered if the second pair of shoes could help.

Any advice is much appreciated.

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u/Feisty_Review_9130 — 2 days ago

Big toe pain

Hi everyone, a few months ago I slipped off a foothold on slab and somehow slammed by toe right into the wall. Over time, wearing climbing shoes where my big toe is even marginally curled has caused more and more pain. Has anyone else experienced this? What was it? What did they do? I got an xray and it showed no arthritis or fracture/evidence of a previous fracture.

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u/es-ist-blod — 2 days ago

Is this leather? Will get them resoled soon but would like to ask if this is leather. Shoes are LS Skwamas

u/imdyln — 3 days ago

Question about street shoe sizing and climbing shoe recommendations

I recently got back into climbing with my 6 year old daughter after a 15 year break and unfortunately, I've never had good fitting climbing shoes. My street shoe size is 12.5 US, which is a 46 in all of the climbing shoes I've been looking at. I have narrow feet and high arches.

I got a pair of Butora Gomi LV in 13 US/EU 47 two months ago and I have about 25-30 hours of climbing in them and they fit great everywhere except for my big toes. They felt tight but manageable when I originally tried them on.

After wearing them for 30 mins they are killing my big toes to the point that I can't put weight on the tip of my big toe, it's painful to walk, and smearing feels like torture. They also stain my toes yellow and my heels black which is super annoying, and I don't have full confidence in the grip of the rubber. I'm looking to buy a new pair of shoes with the sales this weekend but I dont want to make the same mistake as my current pair.

I just looked at a few pairs of my Adidas 12.5 US ultra boosts street shoes and they all list the EU size as 47.5?! Should I have got Gomis in a US 13.5/EU 47.5 since you are supposed to wear your street size in Butora? Which size should I be referencing, US 12.5 or EU 46 or EU 47.5?

Also, any shoe recommendations? I'm 46 years old, 6'4" 195 lbs, with a lean athletic build. I want to get back into bouldering but I'm planning to stick with sport routes for my first 6 months to a year to give my tendons and ligaments a chance to toughen up before risking injuries at my age. I currently only climb indoors, I can do almost all of the 5.10s at my gym, and some of the 5.11s, and I'm working on a few 5.12s.

Of the shoes I've been trying on most brands are way too loose but LaSpo seem to fit my narrow feet/high arches best. I'm considering katanas, muiras, TC pros fit great (but I would feel silly wearing them indoors) and mandalas, which I havent been able to try on in my size but I like the extra toe rubber and stiffer sole. Most of the more aggressive models like solutions, futura, and skwama(too wide) all put way too much pressure on my big toes. Thanks for reading this far. Any help/advice is greatly appreciated.

u/Helpie_Helperton — 2 days ago

Unparallel Help

Hi everyone!

Why do you think Unparallel shoes are more rounded and often high forefoot in the toe’s?
Compared to, for example, Laspo Solutions they are very different in terms of pointiness and width of the toes profile..

I climb primarily outdoor lead, in different type of limestone but I really enjoy pocket climbing!
Do you think that Unparallel will not perform great in a style of climbing of pocketed walls (maybe like margalef/buoux/ceuse/frankenjura)?

Do someone has some experience with Up Shoes in places that has a lot of pockets?
Any suggestions for Unparallel shoes that can suit well this type of outdoor climbing?

I really like the fit and rubber of my Unparallel Sirius Laces but they are too soft for sustained vertical outdoor routes and I was looking for something precise, aggressive and stiffer.
I’m towards the qubits (but they look not very pointy)
And the new Tn Finity or tn pros

The problem is that I can’t find any stores near me that sells UP shoes so I can’t try them on so I was looking for someone that uses Unparallel shoes for outdoor lead that can give me some information

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u/Hot-Walrus7207 — 2 days ago

First pair breaking in - help!!

Im a beginner climber (bouldering) for about more than a month now. I just bought my first pair. Its a So Ill torque. I have a relatively wide feet but I was guided by a coach about this shoe. Ive been breaking it in at home for 4 days. I can see improvement but is this normal? My toes does not hurt but the achilles part does. I cant also walk normally flat on my feet.

Thank you!

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u/Immediate-Field-3298 — 2 days ago

What first shoe should I buy?

Hi all, I am looking for my first climbing shoe and was looking for some help choosing. I have been climbing in rental shoes for the past 4 months. And I am feeling their limits bad heel hooks ect. I am currently climbing ~v4 v5. Id be happy to get a buy once cry once shoe. my street shoe is ~11.5-12 us. I only climb indoors and like both overhang and slab. was looking at instinct vsr or la sportiva kubo or the la sportiva skwamas but i honestly have no clue which shoe to buy out of so many on the market. Some reccomendations would be greatly appreciated. :D

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u/DJPotatoBomb — 3 days ago

Too early for Katana Lace as a second shoe?

I’ve been climbing a little over a month and I’m around V3. Mostly indoor bouldering right now, but I’m starting to do more ropes and expect that’ll increase.

My first pair was Mad Rock Rovers and I definitely messed up sizing because I was new. They work, but shift a little and feel bigger than ideal. Some climbing friends said a second pair isn’t a bad idea and I could keep the Rovers for longer sessions while getting something to grow into.

Part of why I’m looking now is the REI sale. I tried both the Solution and Katana and both felt good, but the Katana seemed more versatile for someone doing both bouldering and ropes.

I’m a guy but have been looking at the white/women’s Katana Lace since I keep hearing they’re softer and more comfortable, and the split sole seems appealing for indoor climbing.

Am I getting ahead of myself here, or is the Katana a reasonable second shoe for someone at this stage?

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u/SMASHWITHBIGTREE — 3 days ago

Shoes genuinely need a half-rand repair within 3 weeks - What am I doing wrong

I am a beginner climber, been climbing about 15 months. I climb around V4-V5 on TB2 to give you an idea of the stuff I am climbing. Only climb indoor.
Within the last 3 weeks since I bought a pair of (discounted, luckily) Arpia V's, I've probably spent about 40 hours in the gym. No hole yet, but rubber is nearly worn down to the bottom. I genuinely have no idea what I am doing so poorly. My first pair of shoes lasted about 6 months, about 156 hours in the gym before they had a hole.
I don't really know what to do because I can't really afford to replace/resole my shoes every month. I suppose the advice is going to be to only climb easy stuff until my technique improves, but that seems like it will take years before my technique and strength align.

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u/West-Firefighter-568 — 4 days ago
▲ 6 r/climbingshoes+1 crossposts

SPLAY shoes SCAM

Spent $230 with this company and they ran off with my money without saying a word, no tracking information, no confirmation email, no invoice or receipt. Reached out to support and they ghosted me when I explained my issue. I will be reporting this company to my bank for fraud and filing a charge back. DON'T BUY SPLAY ​SHOES.

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u/AutoGeneratedName23 — 4 days ago

Are these ready for a replacement?

I’ve been climbing about 3x a week for almost a year in these, can’t tell if they’re getting worn out or not. Thanks

u/Substantial_Bird_380 — 3 days ago

Which shoe to pick?

Hi guys I'm currently looking for a new shoe

I've been wearing my madrock d2.ones in a perfect fit and looking to have an extra pair.

Street size eu42.5

Madrock d2.one eu42

Flight Greek feet and quite narrow

My options are: Theory, Dragos, Skwama, solution comp and instinct vsr.

Any suggestions for fit? That's closest and comaprable to madrocks. And what about the sizing for these?

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u/O_OLucas — 3 days ago