


Considering these for a bookshelf build.
Found these Definitive Technologies 4.5" in- wall speakers on clearance and am wondering if it is worth it for a book shelf build. Regularly $240 ea. Can get for just over 90 ea.
What say you?



Found these Definitive Technologies 4.5" in- wall speakers on clearance and am wondering if it is worth it for a book shelf build. Regularly $240 ea. Can get for just over 90 ea.
What say you?
I know there is 0 way it could have been another employee because I am one of only two and the other one didn't work yesterday and the manager is 3 hours out of town for the next few days. Fucking weird shit here every goddamn day. I have no idea how to get this thing closed none of the keys I have tried to open them have ever even fucking worked. Perhaps now is the time to change the receipt paper finally?
I did a thing. My first attempt at 3D printed speakers and super pleased with how it turned out!
Dayton:
Reference RS100-8 4" full range
Reference RSS210HO-8 sub
SPA300-D plate amp
Running everything from Fosi ZA3 and ZH3.
Slotted bookshelf speaker design lean heavily on a plan from the DIY Audio forums. Sub box is sealed, took advantage of the smaller enclosure size requirement of the 8ohm to fit my printer bed.
The 300W plate amp gets the sub plenty loud enough even at 8ohms, especially in the small room they’re in.
I’ve been experimenting with a Raspberry Pi 5 as a small open DSP box.
The PC sees the Pi as a USB audio device using USB gadget mode. With a USB-C power/data splitter, the Pi can be powered normally while also receiving USB audio from the computer.
The audio path is:
PC USB audio -> Raspberry Pi 5 -> CamillaDSP -> 8 analog outputs and/or optical TOSLINK
The goal is active crossover / home cinema / speaker DSP use: routing, PEQ, FIR, delays, gain, and output testing from a simple web interface.
Short demo:
https://youtube.com/shorts/2ND7hcqHV5Q
For the full explanation of the Raspberry Pi 5 RP1 PIO + DMA S/PDIF output, including install, GPIO12 wiring, limits, and validation notes, read: https://github.com/RASPIAUDIO/CamillaDSP/blob/main/prototypes/pi5_spdif_gpio/README.md
Project / install notes:
https://github.com/RASPIAUDIO/CamillaDSP
More info:
Still experimental, but the basic USB gadget + CamillaDSP + multichannel output path is working.
Hey, i search for some 4 Ohm tweaters for 20-30€ each. For mids an lows i have the Dayton Tcp 115 -4.
I’ve been working on a large 3D printed waveguide/horn design based on an the ATH R-OSSE formula. It’s a 1” throat waveguide, intended to sit above a 10” woofer in an active DSP speaker build. Measures about 450mm.
I’ve printed and assembled the horn, then bogged and primed it. It’s structurally together, but the finish still isn’t as smooth as I’d like - I can still see/feel some print lines and uneven areas - some of which are my poor filling and sanding.
I’m looking for tips on getting a better final surface. I’ve heard people use spray putty then sand back and repeat. Is that the way to go for a large printed horn, or are there better methods/products? Also curious whether people recommend damping or coating the inside differently from the outside.
For the compression driver, I’m probably going to pair it with either the SB Audience ROSSO-44CD-PK or
Peerless DFM-2544R00-08. The plan is to run it active with DSP, probably crossing somewhere around 1.5 kHz above a 10” woofer. I’ll likely add a series protection cap on the compression driver, and only use an L-pad if hiss/gain becomes an issue.
Any advice on finishing the horn properly, or thoughts on which compression driver would be the better match?
Just got myself best and most affordable dual tpa3255 amplifier.
I built this preamp years ago out of scrap materials in my garage, plus a perforated baking sheet. It houses some Hypnotoad phonographic stages, a Pass B1 preamp board, a Pass (?) power supply, a Goldpoint attenuator, a remote control for the volume, and various eBay parts. It still works fine!
had some struggles getting the wiring down but finally got it working and she’s pristine
These drivers have lived a life in pa before in a ported enclosure as dual 18s.(thomann tp218)
The pink graph is before eq whole system (i know its not optimal)
Yellow is eqed
And the blue in the background was my setup before with one dual 18 eqed by ear
Not the prettiest but it plays more precisely in my opinion than the ported enclosure.
Hi! i'm building a 3-way party box, for big outdoor parties (im a uni student)
And these are my budget specs for drivers:
- woofer for the thumpy bass: Dayton audio PA255-8 woofer
Im aiming for something like 50-500 hz
also im making a custom frame in Solidworks with 2 10" passive radiators
- midrange woofer: Dayton audio reference RS100-4 Full-range woofer
500-3500
- tweeter: dayton audio PRO Neo-8 Super Tweeter
3500-20 000
with the Dayton audio H812 1" exponential horn 100x60 2 bolt
I already checked the frequency response and that should be alright. Im mainly worried about making some unseen mistakes. But mainly is this going to be loud enough while not sounding absolutely garbage? we are going to be using this for parties outdoors so the base is already maybe an issue. Advice would be really appreciated!
Hello,
I am having an issue where the tweeter and the midwoofer both are very quiet in my Paradigm Studio 100 v1. i pulled the crossover out which was a pain but dont see really any issues that stick out like a sore thumb. i measured the resistors best i could (amateur at this) and they all were within spec best i could see. what could possibly be the problem snd or what else can i test using a multimeter to figure out what could be the issue? thanks
Please excuse my crappy cameraman skills, juggling like 3 different things at once lol
Testing on very low power off a 4a variable voltage supply, RCAs run to a head unit
The background rattle is my closet door. Very happy with how this is starting to turn out!
Hi everyone,
I wanted to share the current state of my autonomous local Web Radio prototype (v0.9.5.5) built around the ESP32-S3.
The biggest advantage: This is a completely STANDALONE device. You do NOT need Home Assistant, ioBroker, or any other smart home hub to run it. Just plug it into USB power, and it manages everything locally, minimizing physical interaction.
How it works:
Presence & Gesture Detection: Using a 24GHz mmWave radar module, it instantly wakes up when you approach. In its advanced operation mode, it reacts precisely to hand gestures.
No Buttons: I integrated an NFC tag into the top plate. Tapping your phone automatically launches the custom Web UI.
Software Features: The Web UI features a live animated sonar canvas (direct sensor feedback calculated offline on the chip), an equalizer, global radio browser search, and manual stream management.
Voice Control: Fully offline voice control using WakeNet and MultiNet directly on the chip (Beta).
I just uploaded a full 24-minute walkthrough showing the live radar tests, the Web UI responsiveness, and a look at the bare PCB.
Watch the full deep dive here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyLDA5Far0o
(Note: The audio explanation is in German, but I made sure YouTube's auto-translated English subtitles are fully working so you can follow every technical detail!)
Would love to hear your thoughts on a standalone smart device like this versus hub-controlled hardware!
Designed and built these, I call them the Solo 80s, MLTLs with CHR-70s, 3D printed pods, PVC line, tuned with 16oz fill. Sounds decent with budget Class D + HPF in a small space. Going to combo with a sub next.
Assembly drawings and 3d files available under CC-BY-NC-SA 4.0
Solo 80 because they are a solo speaker per tower good for about 80db.
Hi everyone,
I've been working on designing my first DIY speaker, and I used Claude AI to help me come up with the enclosure design based on the drivers I chose and the kind of sound I'm aiming for.
Before I start buying MDF and cutting everything, I wanted to get some opinions from people who have actually built speakers before. I'm hoping someone with more experience can look over the design and tell me if there's anything that doesn't look right.
I'll be attaching the cabinet dimensions, driver specs, crossover details, and the simulation results.
I'd really appreciate feedback on things like:
Does the overall design make sense?
Are there any obvious mistakes or things I should change?
Do you think this will perform well, or am I overlooking something important?
I'm not looking for people to tell me it's good just because an AI helped design it. I'd much rather hear if there are flaws or improvements I should make before I start building.
Thanks in advance—I really appreciate any advice.
Anyone get one of the larger kits from his website before they sold out?
(I am not this person, just a fan, genuinely)
Tem um módulo automotivo embutido de 1800 w . O model 120 é o cerebro , ele mantém a assinatura sonora da gradiente com um pré out caseiro feito na traseira . E o módulo com tecnologia mosfet em stereo entrega cerca de 50 a 60 w rms por canal. Eu trilhei o cam8nho contrário e nao fui para o model 360 da gradiente , eu fiz o meu setup se tornar melhor . Estou utilizando somente o necessário para escutar som perfeito em medio volume para ouvir músicas por muitas horas seguidas.
i have a 6 inch sub that i got for free from a soundbar system. it has 120w rms output and the sub sound really good and moves a lot. but the port is making a lot of noise. i tested it and the noise appears in between 45-55hz. it's really distracting, sometimes louder than the sub itself. i thought about sealing the cabinet but it really lowers the output volume. i tried everything, from flaring the port on both sides, as it was flared only on the outside part and not the inside, i tried slightly blocking the port with a sock, idk what else to try. i really want to use it as is, it will fit very well in my tv sound system, but if i can't, I'll probably just use the sub for a bluetooth speaker. but I doubt the manufacturer designed the enclosure wrong. but I can't figure out the problem