r/diyaudio

I've seen a number of speaker base designs with this square or rectangle format around the internet. Both DIY and official products. I'm wondering if there's any sound issues with this style, as it seems it creates a hollow space between the floor and the bottom of the speaker sitting on it. I've read you don't really want a "hollow box" area with wood. Would it make a difference how tall it goes, or if it's on hard floor vs carpet too?

Edit: Third image is a turntable plinth not a stand, but the shape is still similar to what I'm talking about.

I’m aiming to remove the limiter circuit as it’s apparently a bit hyper active and impacts the performance of the HS8 monitors. A pretty common mod. I can’t find any info on the latest board revisions though!

Have included photos of everything I think is related and the other board just in case. And the latest service manual that shows the limiter circuit with all the wrong labels (R417 etc. )

The Deposition Sound FDMs8 🔈🔉🔊

- 6kg of Polymaker Fiberon Pet-cf17, Tpu 90a (feet)

- Approx 250hrs of print time (4 parts together + feet)

- Printed on two Qidi Xmax3's

- Dayton Audio 8 inch cone and 100watt amp (sold as kit on site)

- Sanded, clear coated and armour all for sealing / protection.

It was a super fun project, it's one that sits below the living room TV that is functional and will outlast most other subwoofers (it's 3d printed tough) Sounds AMAZING!!!

I'll be buying a FDMDuo or Geo kit soon enough I'm sure 😅

Cheers 🥂

After finishing and refining my previously posted balanced headphone amp i added board after board to someday finally get my DIY-dream-modular-headphone-amp.

Top left is my Audio-Input-Board which immensely simplifies prototyping with differential audio signals. Building the clip-on-cables is a bit of a hassle, but i dont't want to miss the simplicity of just hooking up a DAC or any other signal to whatever PCB i want.

On its right is a VU-meter driver, which accepts single ended and differential signals (all boards you can see do that). This is just for fun, but after calibration it definately is a dependable measurement instrument. Purely optional, but beautiful.

Bottom left is my botched balanced relay attenuator. After using a single ended one once on a commercial amp i fell in love with the engineering, feeling and working principle. It, too, accepts stereo differential or quad single ended signals. Currently it is operatied via CMD on PC or two buttons on the PCB. I originally designed the board with an ATTINY16 uC, but ditched them after realizing that i might want to focus on STM32 for the way forward. Thats why the addon board is on top. It works suprisingly good, no loud pops, only slight satic when many relays change. But this is solvable with delayed relay actuation i think. To prevent loud pops all the relays that need to be turned on turn on before others are switched off. So that in the worst case the signal is attenuated more instead of not at all.

Bottom right is the amp mentioned above.

The VU-Driver and the attenuator will get GitHub repos in the future to share my learnings and give back to the incredible open source (or semi) diy-audio community.
I also sell some of those boards on my Tindie page, DM me if you want a link.

The next step is a control board for I/O, controlling the volume with a pot or encoder and power control. After that all these boards get condensed into one and get a nice case. But the main amp-board will always be interchangable to satisfy my need to tinker with it.

L4”xW3.25”xH3” still water proof and it’s lined with a layer of rubber and foam to soften the sound a bit. I’m using two passive radiators from a random cheap speaker that I weighted with some aluminum discs to lower their frequency. In my many years of owning jbl speakers I’ve never used the pause button, link button, or volume buttons, so I did not install that board, but I left room for it. Only the power and bluetooth button are currently installed. It definitely does sound better than standard flip 6. I think the rubber and foam really helped soften the sound, and the heavier but also softer passives help the lows come through. I would like to add some grill covers to really make it nuclear bomb proof, but I like watching em move.

Hello, i bought this 2.1 cheap amplifier board as a way to fix and replace the board of my old cheap jbl 2.1 speakers paired with the 4ohm speakers i bought (both product link below).

While using i have noticed that the satellties speakers (l & r) also produce bass which usually isnt much of an issue but here it makes a very muddy and not so clean sound. Only way i have found to reduce that is by reducing the bass while the given potientiometer but that decreases the overall bass from the subwoofer as well which i dont prefer.

From some research i have found out that i can use capacitors through the output of the speakers to cut/cap low frequency. Suppossdly, 220uf bipolar capacitors are ideal but i cant find bipolar capacitors only electrolyte capacitors for now.

Can i use them and will they cause any issues? Or is there any other better alternate solutions?

Thanks for the help, I'm kind of new to this :)

Amplifier board: https://robu.in/product/dc12-24v-tpa3116d2-2-1-channel-digital-subwoofer-power-amplifier-board/
Speakers: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B0F59N3T3N?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Thinking about upgrading the the mid, horn tweeter and crossover. Appreciate any input

As the title suggests, I’m building a unity gain preamp. Some of you will probably ask “why? Why not passive preamp?”. To that, I would simply answer: “for reasons” ;)

The real reason for this post is to ask for a peer review of the schematic, in order to spot any possible mistakes before moving on to the PCB design stage.

I’m open to any suggestions.

So I'm recreating a guitar effect and I was looking for components on lcsc.com, and couldn't for the life of me find a jack that's just a tip and sleeve. The simplest thing I've found is this one. The datasheet says nothing about these pins. How do I connect those? And have you got any tips in general searching for components online?

(posted the exact same thing to r/diypedals as well by the way)