r/diydrones

Hi guys! I recently completed my first build, a kayoumini with DJI O4 (O3 lens mod).

It flies good, but one thing that bugs me is that it has noticeably less range that my Meteor75 pro 04. Is it really just an effect of having a carbon frame + battery placement? Or do you see any glaring issue with antenna placement?

Happy to hear your opinions or anecdotes!

Hello all,

I am having an issue with my FPV drone using a servo motor. I am trying to use the servo to drop a tennis ball for my dog. When I bench tested everything, it worked completely fine, but the issue came when I was about to take off. When I have the tennis ball held by the servo's Velcro strap, I get an "RXLOSS" and "BOXFAILSAFE" error like you see above. The receiver also blinks. The second I remove the tennis ball, the drone arms and flies like normal. After looking this up, it seems like the the fact that the servo now has to hold a physical object is drawing power from the rest of the circuitry. Has anyone ever run into this before and if so how have you fixed it?

Below is all the specs I could think of that mattered:

- The drone is a 7in FPV w/ a SpeedyBee F405 V4

- Wiring:

- Servo GND to FC GND

- Servo power to FC 5V

- Servo "switch" wire to FC LED

- Servo: MG90S Micro Servo

Thanks in advance for any help

I've finally finished my first ever build, a Speedybee Mario 8 long range / mountain surfer...

I also own an Avata 2, Oxbot Lumo 18 (Wide 04 version) and a GEPRC Vapor D5, but they were all pre-built and configured.

Mario 8 Build List:

-Custom 8S2P 21700 Li-Ion Battery Packs (Reliance RS50 - 10,000mAh & Linkdata 65P - 13,000mAh)

-Speedybee Mario 8 frame

-T-Motor Velox F7 SE 8S FC + V70A SE 8S ESC

-2 x Panasonic 63V EEUFS1J102 capacitor + 5KP36A 36V TVS Diode

-Brotherhobby Avenger 2816 750kv motors

-Gemfan 8040-3 prop's (also have 8040-2)

-DJI 04 Pro Air Unit

-RushFPV Cherry 5.8GHz SMA LHCP Straight Extended Antenna pair 160mm

-UFL to SMA pigtails

-iFlight ExpressLRS ELRS 2.4Ghz Diversity Receiver

-TrueRC 2.4GHz UFL long bardpole

-Foxeer M10Q 250 V2 GPS IST8310 Compass Module

-Vifly finder 2 buzzer

-Ummagrip

I'm using DJI Goggles 3 and a Radiomaster TX15 Max.

I've really enjoyed learning all of the skills to make this build come to life...

-Soldering (far from perfect, but it's passable) -Battery testing, spot welding + assembly

-3d printing + basic CAD design

-Betaflight setup + configuration

-Countless others

A few things definitely didn't go to plan. I fried my first FC, initially fitted the rear legs backwards and printed over 10 versions of the rear GPS / antenna mount, but it was all part of the learning process.

Now on to the next, I'm thinking an AOS UL10 v5 frame for another long range build. Anyone got experience with this frame?

Hi everyone,

I’ve been working on designing a custom Y4 frame for 2.5" to 3" props, with the ultimate goal of staying under the 250g limit.

Before sending the files to the CNC shop for carbon cutting, I would love to get some external feedback from the community to catch any potential design flaws or issues I might have missed.

Here are the specifications of the frame:

• Configuration: Y4 (Traditional split front arms, coaxial dual motors on a single rear arm).
• Motor-to-Motor Dimensions: 121mm width at the front / 124mm width at the rear.
• Carbon Thickness: 3mm for the arms, 2mm for the top-middle and bottom plates.
• Electronics Stack: Designed for 25.5 x 25.5mm AIO, with 25mm of vertical clearance.
• Motor Mount Pattern: 9x9mm (planning to use 1404 motors).
• Canopy: Still a work in progress, but it will be 3D printed in TPU to house the camera and video system.

I will be cutting this from T700 carbon fiber.

How does the geometry look to you guys? Any thoughts on the motor spacing, arms stiffness, or general layout for a micro Y4?

Thanks a lot for your help!

Doing my first swap
Esc is blueson a2 and the fc is a axisflying f722 eco
Does the plug seem to be correct or should I just direct solder?

Hey so I just got a Geprc Vapor D5 analog today, and I am using it with my HDzero BoxPro Goggles. Ive had 2 issues with the video transmission so far.

first, when I was flying during the daytime the signal was pretty good, I flew 600m away at one point and it was crystal clear, then later I flew high above my head and lost video for a full second. Could this be from the VTX overheating? It was 105 degrees outside so pretty hot.

the second issue that evening, I was flying about 20 yards away from me, when the video in my goggles went straight to black screen. No static, no warning at all. Luckily I was only a few feet from the ground, but I cant have that happening in the future obviously

Does anyone know what could be causing these?

(Also, Ive been flying a tinywhoop with these goggles and I havent experienced issues like this)

Hi there, this is the FRSKY EMAX tinyhawk III. Originally the regulator on my flight controller got fried so I had to replace the flight controller and the vtx. Once I replaced those I tried turning it on (first image) and I concluded that since the text was displaying the vtx was fine and the old camera was fried. So I replaced the camera (second image) and I’m getting the same issue. The camera is warming up so I know it’s getting power from the solder and the splice

Is there anything I need to know?
Fc is an axisflying eco f405
I’m looking at the wiring diagrams and the connector pins seem to line up but I’m not exactly sure still

Greetings again from Aeroptera Design. We are proud to announce the much anticipated release of Lace II “Aero”, a 3D printable quadcopter frame that you can 3D print yourselves.

Our last post for the release of Lace-Veyric generated a lot of interest in 3D printed drone frames, and lots of people have reached out about Lace II, which was a work in progress at the time. To make the 3D printing process more accessible, we’ve written an updated User Manual for Lace II, filled with tips to help you successfully build your own Lace drone.

This release includes the comprehensive download package for Lace II “Aero”, including STL files ready for 3D printing, and design files in STEP and 3DM format. A copy of our new manual is also included.
Downloads are completely free, the links are on our website Aeroptera.xyz

Feel free to reach out to us at TeamAeroptera@gmail.com. We would love to see your Lace builds! Comment below with questions and we will try our best to answer them.

We are sponsored by Polymaker, whose advanced 3D printing filaments helped make Lace possible.

Hey, this will be my first DIY drone, and I know that I might be way over my head with this, but I'd like to build a drone for fishing and dropping 10lb baits with a max trip distance of 1,100 yards, where it would lose the payload about halfway through the trip.

I'd like to fly with ArduPilot, but it doesn't have to be fully autonomous — I just need to know approximate distances.

Lmk if there are any improvements or ways I could reduce cost, or if there's anything else I'm missing.

Component	Weight (g)	Price (USD)	Link
Frame	550	$89.99	X600 Hexacopter Frame
Motors	360	$210.00	F100 2810 Motors
ESCs	100	$100.00	Skywalker 50A ESC
Flight Controller	42	$150.00	Pixhawk 6C Mini
Battery	380	$195.00	Lumenier NAV 15000mAh 6S
Propellers	—	$18.00	TBS Propellers
Remote Control	—	$125.00	Zorro Radio Controller
FPV System	30	$250.00	Caddx GM1/GM2/GM3 Gimbal
GPS	32	$45.00	Holybro M10 GPS
Servos	100	$10.00	AliExpress Servo
Goggles	—	$250.00	Walksnail Avatar Goggles L
Power Distribution	20	$10.00	Holybro PDB
Receiver	10	$20.00	ELRS Receiver
Radio ID	—	$40.00	Radio ID Module
Total	1624	$1,512.99