r/diypedals

Edit: Added Schematic as comment
Edit2: added an explanation of the different pots/switches underneath the schematic-comment here

https://www.reddit.com/r/diypedals/s/GP3GNY2MfV

Recently posted about this project already, but since I reworked the Layout and all traces and completly finished them, I thought posting new would be more usefull.

It's my attempt to a Tubescreamer-based guitar overdrive pedal and my very first own pcb-design ever. I would highly appreciate some input regarding the pcb so far and if there are obvious improvements possible or mistakes done.

Signal-Traces are 0,5mm/20mil and power-traces (V9+ and V4,5+) are 1mm/40mil. Tried to stick to minimal distance of 1mm/40mil, in some corners etc it's more like 0,6-0,7mm/23-24mil (but only short distance). On the lower left corner are 3 traces very close (0,2mm/8mil) to each other, but that is on purpose to reduce possible loop surface (I hope that is the correct term in english), since that footswitchable "driveboost" mod can tend to oscilate the op-amp in certain settings. I will actually use cables for a fair distance of that part of the signal instead of traces which I twist together for the same reason (twisting helped a lot on my prototype, which is a TS-Kit with cablewired mods)

Ground via gnd-poures on both sides and with the help of several vias. Via's are all 0,6mm holediameter and 1mm in total. I've also placed several GND-Pads on the PCB's just in case and for more flexibility when actually wiring it all together.

Most pads in the lower-middle part are actually 9V-connections for the switching of 2 bi-color LED's. The switch in the upright corner is also involved in switching the led's, but routing that 9v-connections of the switch through the whole board seemed......tricky, so I will actually use wires for that part aswell and have prepared pads for that.

Input/Output and DC Jacks will be wired offboard.
I hope that is all info needed for the more experienced and helpful people here in the sub :) So, roast me please! Did I do good, bad or at least ok'ish? Any obvious mistakes or easy ways for obvious/big improvement? As I said, it's my very first own pcb, so my experience (and knowledge) is fairly low. I really want to make sure that this is a decent board without mistakes before ordering :D

Caps are vintage NOS, electrolytics were reformed and tested for ESR and leakage. This thing rips

It’s red! It’s a focused ‘70s fuzzstortion machine!

I finished my first pedal, it's a distortion and is really loud. I found a circuit online, and was only planning on messing around on a breadboard. It was so much fun that I ended up buying some soldering supplies to make a 'real' pedal out of it. Printed the housing for it, and it's a bit large.

I swapped the barrel connector for a battery plug. I couldn't filter out the whistling from my wall wart power adapter. I tried adding some rc filters, but it made no difference so I gave up and settled for the battery.

I want to try to make a noise gate next, so any tips are welcome!

Guys, I want to do rat clone, but never worked with perfboard before. So I found this schematic online, but I'm not sure if it's working. Should I make my own placement or use this one?

I built the Molie from das musikding. The led and pedal turns on, the potentiometer and the effect work. But instead of it being a clean bass boost there is some weird distortion sound on top sounding a bit farty.

The Coppersound x JHS Boost a Drive a Fuzz pedal just arrived and it’s my first pedal, I’ve soldered everything, plugged it in and I’m getting these crazy noises, can someone help?

I'm using Tayda's UV printing service and they have very specific instructions but unfortunately they are not terribly clear for my purposes, because I am printing only in black on a silver enclosure. They mention very clearly that you must use CMYK printing and not RGB but it's not clear what will happen if you try to print white in CMYK.

I have tried to go and turn all the white bits as see-through, so that there is no fill color where the white is if that makes sense. Like, there's just a checkered background thing in hopes that the printer will treat it like there's just nothing there to be printed but I've never done this before so I'm worried that I'm not doing it how they want you to do it.

Or would it make more sense to print onto an all-black enclosure? Come to think of it, I feel like that will look better so if that seems like a better idea lmk.

If anyone who has more experience with this can give me feedback I would very grateful.

Built a circuit sim that solves the actual physics instead of applying an EQ curve — germanium leakage current that scales with temperature, BBD charge-transfer loss per stage, tube coupling-cap blocking distortion, and more. 1,920 parts, free for personal use (closed source), Windows/Apple Silicon Mac only, amp sim currently disabled (known noise bug). Just added English UI.

[link]

Built myself a BD2 clone but the thing is obnoxiously loud past 1/3rd of the volume pot. The gain and tone are sounding proper (albeit maybe a little dark), but there’s no way the output on this thing is naturally this loud. I’ve tried swapping the volume pot for a lower value and adding a resistor in series, but that didn’t seem to work. Am I missing something? Somebody help me lol.

I was able to take some time this past weekend to knock out another build. I had my mind set on a Fuck Overdrive for a while now. Pics are during transistor selection. I gotta say, this thing rips. It was such a fun build.

hi everyone, im currently trying to build a dual footswitch circuit (channel/chorus) for my fender princeton chorus since the stock one i have doesnt work

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im a little confused about footswitches : the diagram (shown above) tells us to use a SPST switch, but from what i read online and saw on shops, SPST switches only are momentary? its default state is off, and turns on only when pressed and maintained, then turns off again when released, is that right?

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if so, what switch could i buy that is permanent (turns on when pressed and stays on when released) that would be compatible with the circuit ?

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thx !!

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link to the circuit source : https://www.instructables.com/Fender-Princeton-Chorus-Switchfoot-Pedal/