In this guide you’ll learn how to:
• Install Hallpi TMR thumbsticks + Calibrating TMR sticks on the Switch 2 console
• Perform a complete Joy-Con 2 shell swap
• Replace all buttons
• Install new magnetic side rails (Mag Rails)
• Safely remove and replace the Joy-Con 2 accent rings without damaging the sticks using a 3D printed tool
When's the rmb dropping? I see them on aliexpress and amazon but they're not for sale. Also if you already have the spark kit, are we gonna be able to do a trade in or do we have to buy the rmb version?
Just like the title says I can’t seem to get the screen to turn on. I can get the controller to turn on. One of the ribbons seems to have suffered during the process is this the cause?
I started making this noise after 1 day. It is being caused by the planting thing you attach to the trigger. But the other one makes a normal mouse click sound. Why is this squeaky? Is this a factory defect, installation issue or anything else? All help is appreciated!
Is this kit so that once it is installed it will give me clicky triggers and if I want to switch back to the default analog trigger I do it with the little lever? 🤔
I'm thinking about modding my dual edge, but I wanted to know if I would be missing if I don't do the soldering. I suck at it.
I previously bought the classic SNES style nintendo ds lite shell and noticed it was relatively poor quality
It appears that the paint job leaves a weird texture and is making the hinge creak
So I was wondering if the switch lite have the same quality problems, either on the solid-color or clear ones
Love these kits, I have a purple one as well.
So after I did a backplate swap, the right joy con slot just isn’t recognizing my joy con, the controller isn’t dead since I flipped the console upside down and connected it onto the left side and it worked. I took my console to a repair store and the guy claimed he bought a new data pin ribbon for the right side, but later on he said the controller still wasn’t connecting. I was thinking that something might have faulted within the motherboard itself but I just need confirmation from anyone else.
Built another flag controller, full clicky, real 9mm bullet casings, TMR, 4 back paddles, adjustable height thumbsticks and a big boy battery. This one feels great. Tested it out on battlefield 6 and was fun as could be. Felt in it's place.
For context my spark kit has failed on me, ive tried reseating the fpc, tried reseating all the ribbons to the main board but regardless of what I do 2 of my face buttons and my r1 will no longer work when assigned to the paddles
I've tried reaching out to them on Instagram as its the only social I have installed on my phone but I have yet to hear back
Very new to doing this it's actually my first time soldering and everything,
I installed the hall effects from extreme rate.
I used their orange I think it's called a PCB board and followed the instructions.
This was as low as I can get it while making sure that it reached the edges for the circularity test.
Just wondering if I'm supposed to get it to 0% or is that impossible?
Also sorry I forgot to turn off my flash both times 😂
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So I just ran into a new issue that I found very interesting.
I installed the extreme rate hall effect analog sticks with the included orange PCB board.
When I plug the controller into the computer and go to the GamePad tester.com, all the buttons work and they work with no perceivable latency or lag. if I press the button it pops up instantaneously ,or at least faster than I can fully comprehend and when I let go of the button it disappears just as quickly.
I'm able to control the entire laptop with my controller and all buttons work and function like I said with no latency.
When I plug the controller back into my PS5 it won't fully connect.
It has very strange behavior where the lights come on and I press the home button and the lights change blue but it doesn't bring up like a login screen.
When I use another controller to go to Bluetooth accessories ,and then I plug in the controller in question ,it automatically scrolls on the screen to the controller in question. so it is both recognizing the device and that it is specifically a dual sense controller and that it's one that it has connected to before.
I've tried making it forget the signal and reconnecting the controller which once again it will register that it's connected to the controller but I can't do anything with it.
I've also tried forgetting the connection and putting the controller into Bluetooth sync mode ,and then connecting to it via scanning for Bluetooth devices, and it will fully register that it's connected but the controller still doesn't do anything on the PlayStation menu like I can't play games or anything with it.
All of this then to immediately plug it back into the computer and have every button show up that it's working perfectly fine on the GamePad tester.
I don't know if I did anything wrong or if there's a step that I'm missing but any help please would be very much appreciated
Edit: typos
I saw them on Amazon and the main website but you can’t buy it. I want them please help.
Apparently these have been discontinued. Any one know where I might be able to find these? No luck on eBay or Amazon or Ali Express. The seller on eBay sent the incorrect plates. I imagine I will hear back that they don't have any of this color.
Salve a tutti ho un problema con il kit spark, tutto funziona bene ma non posso rimontare la scocca posteriore, precisamente sul lato destro non riesco a farla entrare. Ho dovuto usare del nastro isolante come da foto, ho provato a inserire la custodia bianca standard di ps5 ed entra perfettamente. Quindi il problema non è come ho montato il tutto dentro ma proprio della scocca posteriore di extreme rate. Qualcuno ha avuto questo disagio? Devo fare il reso? Per provare a forzarla ho anche rotto la plastica centrale… che nervi
Okay so from all of the info I was able to gather by myself and of course from the comments on my last post , I believe this should be a much better result.
I still have a lot to learn I believe but let me know what you guys think.
Are there areas I can improve and does this look like a good model for circularity.
I tried to keep it between 7.5% and 9% and I tried to have overshoot in the corners.
I got these results by slowly rotating each analog stick both clockwise and counterclockwise at least five times or more I continued to rotate them until the percentage stopped changing.
This is the result that I got after doing that whole process three times in a row it was the exact same.
Oh and I remembered to turn the flash off this time 😂