r/evertune

Hello, I am looking to buy an Evertune equipped guitar but I need some info before, with my band I play on a 30 inch scale baritone guitar in A standard tuning, using Ernie Ball baritone slinky 13-72 gauge string set, I wanted to go with a shorter scale for comfort playing (I have very small hands) but I don’t know if the Evertune with proper saddles for the tension of the strings would be enough to mantain the same tension of the 30 inch baritone scale or if they would be floppy like on a regular bridge with shorter scale lenght, is anyone using an Evertune bridge tuned down to A on a 25.5”?

So, say I'm tuning down at the bridge, with the hex key, while in zone 2. If I go too far, does that mean I'll just go into zone 1? So I just have to tighten at the headstock, and hopefully it goes back into zone 2? And if the tension is too low, tightening at the headstock pegs won't put it into zone 2 and will just go past the pitch without ever "balancing" on the one pitch you turned to with the hex key? Am I thinking about that correctly? I'm trying to imagine how to test how low I can get away with tuning while still having the bridge function. I already have low-tension modules and would like to avoid having to get thicker strings if possible.

> I wrote this because I snapped my High E setting my new guitar up and have nothing better to do while I wait for new strings in the morning. I can't afford to break another string (they don't sell singles at my store...) so I want to make sure my puny adhd brain has this correct in a format I'll easily follow. I watched the most popular youtube video's and the official video's and this is what I ended up with.

1. Move saddles with saddle tension adjustment toward middle (Not sure on this part, the saddle were nearly all the way forward without a string on the high E that snapped)

2. Put on new strings as normal (not too tight)

3. Headstock tuners: Tighten until the saddle enters Zone 2 (See note - Zone 2)

4. Headstock tuners: Continue until the pitch stops increasing, then go 1 full turn farther.

5. Bridge saddle tension adjustment: get open strings exactly in tune.

6. Headstock tuner: move the saddle toward the Zone 3 boundary until you reach your desired bend/vibrato position (See note - Playing Position)

7. Bridge saddle tension adjustment: get open strings exactly in tune again while in Playing Position

8. Action Screws: Set action (if necessary). Set Playing Position again.

9. Intonation Screws: Intonate at Playing Position. Loosen Headstock tuner slightly first. 12th fret sharp → Tighten intonation screw. 12th fret flat → Loosen intonation screw. Set Playing Position again.

10. Repeat: Steps 7,8 and 9 until both Open string and 12th string are in tune at Playing Position

Notes:

Zone 2 (Aka stable tuning spot) - Pull on string and visually see if saddle moves back and forth to compensate. Saddle should not be fully back or forward. Tuning pitch should not change drastically.

Playing Position (Aka Zone 2-3 Sweet spot) - Pull on string and visually see saddle can move slightly back away from neck but not much forward towards neck when adjusting with headstock tuners. Bending/Vibrato should function and heavy picking should remain in tune. Visually the saddle should look as if it's almost completely forward towards the neck.

Saddle Tension Adjustment - The hex holes inside the saddles

Intonation Screw - The hex holes on the front of the bridge

Action Screw - The hex holes on the top of the bridge