r/genesiscoupe

2013 3.8 A/T here,

The original power steering pump i had with the car ended up going dead after i was doing donuts 🤣. So i recently replaced it which was a headache in itself

Car was running fine and steering was fine for 2-3 weeks, Recently I’ve noticed a not so slight noise when I turn the wheel, I haven’t done any donuts or any sliding in the car out of fear for what happened to my last pump so It’s kind of baffling to me that this is happening now

Any ideas?

So there’s these obx headers on fb and it says it’s for a 2010-2012 3.8 but I have a 13 does it matter ?

Sensor 2 fuse keeps on blowing repeatedly when trying to go under load. I can change the fuse for sensor 2 and leave it at idle and nothing happens. As soon as I try to take off it blows the fuse. I can even leave it at idle and as soon as I try to turn the steering wheel it blows the fuse. I have currently 15 CEL codes all pictured below. I know not all of these went out so I’m thinking maybe a relay? I have no idea where to start and any help would be appreciated greatly.

2013 Genesis coupe 2.0T, Auto

This is the rear passenger side suspension.

What part is circled in the first image?

What part (circled on image #2) is the rusted part at the top by the spring?

Want to make sure I order the correct parts. Thanks in advance

I too was about to spend $65 and wait 6 months to receive a grounding kit from 3.8 performance. I needed one because due to my aftermarket subwoofer my headlights would often flicker when it was turned up. You may have other reasons for wanting improved grounding as well, including performance.

However, after this simple mod which has been mentioned on other forums previously, I have no need for a grounding kit and my grounding is greatly improved where any issues I had before are now fixed.

From the factory, Hyundai bolted down the battery's negative terminal cable directly over painted metal on the chassis. That means your primary chassis ground is relying almost entirely on the bolt threads for contact rather than the flat surface of the terminal pad, creating a bottleneck for electrical flow right at the source.

The 10-Minute Fix:

1. Pull the battery out of the tray to give yourself room to work.

2. Unbolt the factory ground cable from the inner fender/chassis.

3. Use sandpaper to sand the paint away under the contact point until you have bare, shiny metal.

4. Bolt the ground strap back down tight and reinstall your battery.

It costs nothing, takes minutes, and often clears up sluggish cranking, fluctuating idles, dimming headlight, and poor low-end throttle response.After I did this, I now have no need to purchase a grounding kit.

Pictured is the negative battery cable mounting point from the factory, the spot you need to sand

I just bought this 2013 genesis coupe 2.0 automatic as a project car a couple weeks ago, haven’t driven it much as I was waiting to change the oil first I took it for a drive today after work and when I get home and I noticed the check engine light was on and I’m finding what looks to be oil in my coolant reservoir can I get any tips on where to check where it’s coming from or how it happened

edit: the car has 194k miles on it and the engine was replaced at 150k miles by the previous owner it still has the same transmission

Well insurance totaled it out. Extremely disappointed in that as the damage is 100% cosmetic (all parts tested and working). And repair values were conveniently exactly 75% of ACV.
Damage is fender and bumper and wheel gouged but mechanic quoted full radiator mount and crash bar replacement with light replacement along side it.

However here is where the decision comes in.

I could repair the fender and bumper myself on the cheap and have a well maintained driving car with cosmetic issues that’s a blast but this would cost me 1500 dollars to keep as well as time that I don’t have as I am in school.

So do I keep the car and repair it down the line?
Do I part the car out myself since the engine and trans and both in great shape?
Do I just say screw it and take the 1500 and put it towards a new car

Any and all advice helpful.

Hello, so I currently have the RSW GT wing on my Genesis. I have been thinking of going a different route with the wing and possibly the taillights and needed some opinons. Im between keeping the RSW GT wing, or going back to the stock track spoiler. Also thoughts on getting clears if I did get the track spoiler? Thanks.

100% my fault, took a left turn on green but didn't notice the green arrow disappeared. I glanced at Google maps for half a second and it was all over, hit the brakes but not in time. Been driving 14 years (had the car for 10) and first accident ever in the first car I bought with my own money. Damn.

It was a bit difficult, but it was worth it! Passenger side looks a bit better 😆🌀✨

We picked up a 2012 Genesis Coupe 3.8l Track last weekend for the wife. We were replacing a 2011 Mini Cooper S Clubman. So far she is loving the car.

Hey everyone. First off, I want to apologize for the radio silence getting this update out took months because work has been absolutely burying me. I know a lot of you have been messaging me asking about the progress, so I wanted to finally drop an update on where the digital cluster build is at!
I’ve been collaborating with another community member (shoutout to Julez) who has been doing some incredible work on the hardware, software, and prototyping side.

Current Progress & Hardware

The Screen: We are currently using a 10.3-inch High Brightness IPS TFT Display for the proof of concept. It is incredibly bright, and we are currently figuring out a solid display driver solution since it relies on an LVDS interface.

Data & Brains: We have successfully started decoding most of the ECM data through standard PIDs using ⁠python-obd⁠. To power the UI, we are looking at running an AOSP (Android Open Source Project) stack on a Raspberry Pi 5 (8GB) so it can run as a powerful standalone device.

Mounting & PCB: A custom PCB layout has already been mapped out using KiCAD. Instead of reusing the tacky stock gauge shape, we are designing and 3D printing a custom, much thinner shroud for a cleaner fit.

UI Design: I am heavily leaning toward a sleek, modern BMW-style interface since this is going in a daily driver.

The Feature Roadmap
Because we are already hooking directly into the CAN wires, the ceiling for what this cluster can do is massive. Here is the list of upcoming features on the roadmap:

ECU Map Management: Flashing and storing maps from the cluster directly to the ECU.

Apple CarPlay: Full native integration.

Blind Spot Cameras: Camera feeds that automatically display on the cluster when your turn signals are used.

Front Collision Warnings: Integrated alerts to modernize the driving experience.

Front Proximity Camera: An automated front camera view that triggers when things like speed bumps or parking blocks are detected (to save those front lips).

Thanks to everyone who has been patient and showed interest in this project. I'll try to keep the updates flowing a bit more regularly as we get the PCBs printed and start doing physical fitment tests in the car!

Has anyone successfully replaced the 8 pin digitizer? I attempted it with a cheap Amazon one, its 8 pin like we have. Says it fits off part number but doesnt work. Curious if its just a bad digitizer or some genesis specific pinout on the digitizer.

I have replaced many of these touch pads on Cadillacs and subarus so im not unfamiliar with them.

Never had a turbo car before, am I cooked?

Got this car recently, it’s an automatic 2014 2.0t premium, 108k miles, no mods from what I can see. I was driving just fine for the first few days until a few days ago when I noticed a loud whistling sound when the boost gauge would hit 0. Nothing out of the ordinary before or after boost but right when the turbo starts spooling up it would whistle/whine. No changes in performance, no CEL, nothing weird besides that noise. I checked around the engine bay and noticed the snorkel that goes to the air box was totally loose. Got some retainers for it and the whistling stopped BUT today when I went to turn it on the whistle became a rattle and now it makes no boost. I took off the intake to check the turbo for play. No axial play but there is a little bit of radial play (maybe a mm or two, it does not touch the housing)
Are the fins damaged here? I don’t know what they’re supposed to look like but my gut says this looks off. Any ideas?

Update: got a replacement turbo going in today. The difference between both compressors was night and day, I just didn’t know what I should be looking at. All the examples of bad turbos I could find online have absolutely catastrophic levels of damage which led me to wonder if my issue wasn’t “that bad” but I see now that there’s not really a range for the tolerances allowed, it’s kinda just a pass/fail deal. Thank you so much to those who replied 🙏🏼

Back again for some help with a diagnostic, my clutch pedal goes straight to the floor and doesn't return. I am leaking what I thought might be brake fluid right at the start of the transmission but my fluid reservoir level still seems stable. I guess it could be the slave cylinder? It's not the braided line I installed previously and seems to be isolated to just the area in the picture. And other ideas or thoughts?

On my 2013 3.8 Genesis Coupe, my power steering pump has been “whirring” for awhile and I assumed it was just the thing going out from age, but I looked at the reservoir and the fluid level is pretty low.

Should I try topping off the fluid before taking it to a shop, or would that not make any difference and I should just take it to a shop.

I am very unfamiliar with the workings of power steering, so I wanted to make sure to ask before fiddling around haha.