This is my crank bearing or a piece of i believe any ways anyone run into this and save the motor or is it cooked can I do the bottom end slip out method to change them with an Allen wrench carefully it's my daily ( parked after I saw this in oil pan) yes it sounds rough
Not aware of this being any sort of normal thing. Have weather tech floor mats. No sunroof. No leaks as far as I’m aware. Rear taillights have been sealed. Car is garage kept. Single owner, 155k mi.
Low mileage, taking up space, will give you a decent deal. Thought I had it sold to someone on the sub but that didnt happen so I figured I would offer it to the rest of the community. I may even have the shifter linkages laying around, too. Came from a 2015 so it should have the carbon synchros (2014+).
Located near Seattle. Not sure what they are going for, thinking $400 or best offer?
Hi everyone,
I’ve officially gone down the exhaust rabbit hole and think I’ve finally settled on the Solo Performance exhaust. I managed to find one for $600 shipped, which seemed too good to pass up.
I’ve heard great things about it, and every video I’ve watched sounds amazing. Right now I’m running a muffler delete. I know some of you are probably going to cringe at that, but honestly… I love it. The car came that way, and while I probably wouldn’t have chosen it myself, it still puts a smile on my face every time I drive it.
That said, I think I’m ready to graduate to something a little more refined and deeper. I recently went to a car meet and absolutely fell in love with how deep the R35 GT-R V6s sounded. That’s the kind of tone I’m chasing—not trying to copy a GT-R exactly, just that deep, bassy rumble. That’s a big reason I’m leaning toward the Solo.
Here’s where I’m stuck.
I’ve also been offered a set of ARK test pipes and Maintec equal-length long-tube headers for $350 total, which feels like an insanely good deal. My original thought was to install everything, get tuned, and pick up some power. But after talking to people on this sub, I’ve learned I'd actually lose power, so now I’m focusing more on the sound than the horsepower.
My questions are:
If you had to choose one, would you install the headers or the test pipes?
Which one contributes more to a deep rumble rather than rasp?
Which one adds the most volume while still sounding good?
I also love the pops and burbles on decel. Which setup tends to preserve or enhance those?
If I install the Solo, headers, and test pipes and then get an AlphaSpeed tune, what kind of real-world power gains should I actually expect?
I know headers are a bit controversial on these cars, but at $350 for both the headers and test pipes, it almost feels like I’d be crazy not to at least consider them.
I’d appreciate any advice from people who have actually run these combinations. Thanks!
Went to a muffler shop to get a resonated test pipes and saw this when they lifted it up. Seems the headers are melting the motor mounts any suggestions on solutions? They told me a headshield on that specific part of the headers should do the trick I just want more opinions!
I have a 2012 Genesis coupe 2.0T, have been using 5w-30 but heard I should change to 5w-40 for the turbo. I live in Canada so based off that what should I do. Should I run 5w-40 in spring and summer and 5w-30 in winter and fall or just stick to one.
I’ve been trying to see what my ai can do and had an idea to decode my ecu I’ve already decoded ecu pids but came to a stopping point of my elm237 so I’ve ordered a vgate vlinker so that I can do more, looking to maybe turn this into an access port so any information or ideas would be helpful looking mainly for did/memory map and module security access information
ATQ is manufacturing Short Shifter and Bushing Kits starting early next week.
This is their last batch of the year!
Cut off to make this production run is Sunday July 5th 2026 no exceptions!
Please be advised that tariffs apply at shipment for American customers.
Shipments will be in 2-3 weeks from posting this.
ATQ has asked for this to be posted since they want to clear orders and focus on their differential bushing kit shipments.
https://atqauto.com/?srsltid=AfmBOorqSTtKIj8dnQBdayx12l6dzin9X4Z_Q691ecfhS3WwyA8LCqB8
I bought my gen at 206k kilometers for 4.2k CAD, ive fixed many things probably put about 2.5 into it since, Body wasnt too bad but now its getting much worse with clear coat peel and a tad bit of surface rust, now i need new struts, sway bar links, transmission mount, sunroof tracks are broken, ac compressor broken, control arms in the back need replacing and brakes, and im at 234,000 km.
Fixing this would cost me about another $4000 CAD to make her pretty and run nice again, is it worth it or should i sell it and move onto a newer genny or newer car?
I am thinking of financing something newer instead of having the consyant stress of things failing at this high of a mileage.
What do you guys think?
3.8L 2010 v6 gt btw
I’ve been driving my 2016 Genesis coupe 3.8 ultimate for a little over 4 months now and recently I noticed that my brake pedal has started to vibrate a lot more at idle. I looked it up and it said my rotors could be warped, i don’t have an exact date on any of my brakes because the previous owner didn’t keep track but I definitely plan on replacing them soon. Anyway is there any more information needed? Are my rotors warped?
All 3 events Solostorm video. (Results at the bottom. Don't trust the overlays, they're not synced and time is not accurate): https://youtu.be/_nltZAU7DXU?is=WxRqjJ3Lg13CzuXh
All 3 events Helmet cam video. (Sorry for poor audio, looking into making that sound better (SjCam C110+)):
https://youtu.be/pznl6bPvxEk?is=bht4hgTYPwOr7d-2
So I finally got the shocks on, and I've done three events on them as of now. One was on a extremely smooth asphalt lot, the other two events were at the same location I was having issues with. It's a completely different car. It feels like a precision tool now. Not a boat that's rolling and leaning into turns. Just even driving around town into the events, it's a completely new car. I'm not bracing myself for railroad tracks or any slight deviations in the road.
Things I've noticed at the 2-day event at I was having issues with: I didn't even notice there was bumps in the pavement. Instead of feeling the car lean the whole time through the turns, I would feel the initial force of the turn and the car would immediately be back to leveled out letting me throw the Genesis around more. I did NOT hit the same patch that sent me airborne, we went around it these 2 days. But all the rough patches that sounded like the car crashing and losing grip, the shocks handled them no problem since we went back over the areas twice now.
A good way to describe what I felt is everything is now sharper. Through slaloms, it didn't feel sluggish. There was no period where I had of wait for the car to finish reacting to the initial cone before I can start the next cone in the slalom. It almost allowed me to think of it as a straight line. Same thing when it came to the sweeping turns and offsets. The car went exactly where I wanted it placed, and was ready for what is next when I needed it. No lean or waiting for the car to set before giving it another task.
Looking at a diagnosis of my old shocks, I found out I am terrible at maintenance. They were completely done. When I was pulling them out of the car, my bump stops were shoved up into the top next the hats in the front. And from what I remember the rears we were able to almost compress the shock and pull it out with little to no effort. It didn't even fight us to come out. These should have been changed a long time ago, I for the most part was just racing on the springs. That's what was beating the car up and me up so badly. I'm just extremely stubborn and didn't listen to anybody apparently lol. I also had to cut my rotors and get new pads since I glazed them up some time after sebring over 2 years ago now. Night and day difference too. Just digging the hole deeper supporting I'm terrible with maintenance lol.
Can't find results page for 1st video.
34.252 RAW time. 3rd/97 for PAX
2nd and 3rd video results page:
36.956 RAW time. 1st/89 for PAX
33.946 RAW time. 1st/75 for PAX
https://autocross.cfrscca.org/2026-events-results/
Here is the original post :
2013 base 2.0t, i’ve been losing power steering fluid and i’ve traced the root of the problem. Does anyone know where I can find this line to get a replacement, or if this is an easy fix that doesn’t involve me having to replace the line?
Hello everyone, I'm making this post because I've noticed that my Genesis is lower from one side in the back. Looking at it from the side, I noticed that the driver's side is lower and more sunken than the right side. I got under the car and looked closely, and I realized that it's true, one arm is raised higher than the other, and when I noticed, one of the lower arms looks like slightly bent, and the other looks straight. Looking for the parts, I realized that the original parts, they are bent. Could this be the reason one side is lower? one is straight and the other slightly bent from the factory? Or what do you recommend here?
There’s a leak somewhere for sure, I just have no idea where it’s coming from. First noticed while driving home from work, started to lose power around 3k rpms while going 40 MPH. I started hearing a PSS PSS PSS sound like pressure was being built up somewhere and releasing air. Cabin smells like burning Gas.
I’ve checked under the car but there is no trail being left. Not sure if it’s something I can maybe fix at home, if not I’d need a tow to a shop for further diagnosis.
Quick note: Recently got a motor installed since the first one was blown, I do have warrantee under this motor as well.
Could someone tell me what this sound could be? It makes this noise when rpms are high and doesn’t make a noise when they are low on my 2013 Hyundai Coupe 2.0T. The oil is fine on it and there is no engine lights showing up. It almost sounds like it is under the turbo plastic piece.