I currently have black art rims on my civic but looking to change the look to her first 4 is it right now 5 and 6 are the rims I’m looking at the rest after are ai images what you guys think? I like em both can’t decide lol
Driving home last night from seeing fireworks. Had bad heavy rain and the highway was completely flooded. Couldn’t see shit, ran into about a foot and a half deep water and my cold air intake sucked up a shit ton of water.
Just took apart the front end to try and drain as much water as possible. Leaving it off to dry overnight. Its the 1.5L turbo on the 10th gen si. Took spark plugs out, its shooting massive amount of water out. Engine still turns over. Intercooler was filled with water.
Just want to know what to expect or what i could possibly do insurance wise
I have a 2020 Honda civic sport 2.0 and I’m having AC issues. So here’s the background- I have recharged my ac 2 in the last 2.5 years. I go to AutoZone and buy the refrigerant for like $50 bucks. Anyways, when I start my car it makes a weird noise. Almost like gas releasing idk how to describe it. After I recharge it it my AC blows cold for several months until eventually it starts blowing warmer again. I’ve attached a video with the sound. Can anyone tell me how I can try to diagnose this myself. Money is tight and I have no issue putting in some elbow grease. Appreciate all the help.
I might have been scammed by a private seller on a 2013 Honda Civic 1.6 DTEC EX with 138k miles on the clock. It had mostly FSH done at Honda and was listed on Facebook Marketplace.
The test drive was okay, apart from the air conditioning not working and a slight rattle from the exhaust heat shield. I negotiated £150 off and paid £2450. During the test drive, I tested the aircon and it wasn’t working but no error messages appeared.
It was delivered a few days later. After paying and driving off, I tried to turn on the AC again and a warning message popped up saying ‘PGM-FI check system’. The dashboard engine warning light also came on a bit later after restarting the car.
I messaged the seller and he suggested it might be AC-related (sensor voltages can trigger the warning) and that the AC needs regas. I’m a bit sceptical that regas will fix it.
Is this going to need a dealership repair and could it be expensive? Can general garages look into this and read/understand the codes using a scanner?
I wonder if he’s been clearing the codes with a scanner before the test drive and just before delivery.
Hello,
I’ve been working on a driving app called Speedometer: Driving Tracker for a while, and it recently got approved for CarPlay in the Driving Task category.
That approval process is surprisingly strict - very limited UI, no custom buttons, and a strong focus on safety; so getting through it meant a lot.
The app originally started as a simple speedometer, but over time, I expanded it into something more like a driving companion. It tracks trips, shows analytics, and tries to make driving data more visual instead of just numbers.
Some things it currently supports:
The idea is to offer something beyond what most built-in dashboards show, while still working within CarPlay’s limitations.
Would love to hear any thoughts or feedback.
I have a ‘26 hybrid hatchback sport. I just installed a sub but now I’m getting this warning and the AC blows warm. Help!!!
Edit: I’ve detached the sub from the battery. But I’m still getting the same message on the screen and the left blinker is fast.
Hi guys, I’m new to this forum but I’ve seen a couple of people talk about their car problems and so I’m giving this a shot, hopefully yall can help. Let me give you the rundown from beginning to now: Early June I had my first check engine light and my car wouldn’t accelerate properly. I sent my car to get seen asap at my local Honda dealer, and they told me it was a misfiring through one of the fuel injector coils, causing the engine to not properly push fuel. That and a fuel pump that needed to be replaced. Fixed and paid $1800 for it. Then I got my windshield replaced on June 17 and on June 19th, I got three lights on my dash (Adaptive cruise control problem, road departure mitigation system problem, and collision mitigation system problem). At times the car would suddenly slow down. Those lights on my dash would only come up at night and disappear during the day. I called the gentleman who replaced my windshield because when I looked online, they said it could’ve been a misalignment with my windshield camera or it needed to recalibrate. He did a recalibration but he also said that there was a possibility that wasn’t the problem. When he scanned my car with his OB2 scanner, he gave me three codes (P0571, C0040-62, and U0416-68). He was right, even after his recalibration, the car still had the lights come on the dash. So I got the car seen again at the dealership. They told me my car had a blown head gasket; that coolant was leaking in the engine which is why those lights and acceleration problems were an issue. That sounded funny to me because although my car knowledge is still very mid at best, I was so confused as to why an engine problem that severe would give me brake related dashboard lights like that. So I ended up paying around $5k to get it fixed. When I got my car back yesterday, I drove literally less than 5 miles and boom, the lights came back on again. I was so pissed. They told me that everything was fixed. Then it hit me, it was probably two problems that existed, not just one. They fixed my engine problem but those 3 lights were still an issue. I was DIGGING the internet to see what could be the problem. The car also mentioned it being something wrong with my CMBS, so it means the radar scanner or my camera, again, bringing me back to my windshield camera theory. Today, I tried calling windshield repair companies to see if they could assist me in realigning and reconfiguring the camera, and one guy told me it would be something wrong with my cars alignment and cars steering angle sensors. I have so many theories and questions right now, so that’s why I turned to you for more guidance. Maybe you could help me pinpoint it a little. A few moments ago, I got all these lights, besides the regular three so now I’m more confused than ever. The car drives fine besides the slow down I mentioned.
I hope anyone who has had this problem can help me guide to a solution before I have to do any more expensive repairs.
I am just getting into cars and do not have much experience yet. I have always loved the 5th gen Civic hatchback, and since they're known for being beginner-friendly I would really like one as a project.
I check Marketplace and other listing sites regularly within about 100 miles of me, but they're pretty rare in the Northeast. I recently looked at one listed for $5,000. It has 311,000 miles, but the body is in good shape with no visible rust on the exterior or wheel wells, just some surface rust in the engine bay. The undercarriage has some rust and a little flaking, but I didn't notice any obvious structural damage. It drove fine, and the only modifications are a changed clutch and radio.
My goal is not to flip it or build a race car. I have always wanted a highly original that I can slowly restore and keep for a long time.
I offered $3,500, but the seller would not go below $4,000, so I walked away. It is still listed a few days later, and now I'm wondering if I should go back and buy it.
Is $4,000 a reasonable price for a clean, mostly original 311k mile hatch, or is that way too much? Since these have been hard to find stock where I live is the price justified? Also, are there better places than Facebook Marketplace to look for one in the Northeast?
I just traded in my 2024 Subaru Crosstrek Premium for a 2022 Honda Civic Hatchback. It’s a 2.0L naturally aspirated engine and a 6-Speed manual. This is my first manual car so I am looking forward to mastering it. My goal one day is to take it West Virginia and drive the mountain roads. I’d love to hear about your experience owning a manual Civic🙂↕️
Replaced Spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and distributor seal, but now am faced with a no-start.
Battery is new and cranks over fine, ran earlier today so it’s not timing related.
I cleaned the rotor surface and pulled all plugs out and connected them to the wires and at TDC for cylinder 1 saw all spark plugs firing in correct order.
Smells like fuel when spark plugs out and cranking.
I’ve seen people talk about a main relay and I’m wondering if pulling off the distributor cover with the battery still attached could’ve fried the aging relay or if it’s something I’m overlooking.
Any advice or a better subreddit to post would be appreciated.
This is the utter truth, Honda was one of the first companies to introduce lane (Blindspot camera).
I have been so pampered with this tech that I just look at the screen and make a decision to change lanes.
I don't think I'll ever be comfortable driving anything else without it or something similar which be different.
Lmk about any good mods and stuff for it.
Hi!
Ive got some questions about the swap cause I have Some problems with it.
Some info:
I have a 1991 ed (ef) Civic and it used to be a obd0 dpfi d15b2. I wanted to do a b20 swap and i am going to but I want to do that one proper so it Will take Some time, then my d15b2 gave up on me (its got 350K KM on the dash so its okay) but then a friend of mine said he had a d16z5 engine Ecu etc to do the swap for now sinds its quite similar to b20 engine Harness. Enough story telling here are my questions.
I am doing the swap with p07 ecu(obd1) obd2 inectors high impendance and obd1 distributor. I Also have the d16z5 engine harness. Now here is where the problem this has an extra connector on the passenger side. Next to the big round connector and rectangle. And that small 6 pin,6 wire, connector i still have to connect because that has the distributor signals. My question is where do i wire the signals to on my ecu?
I really want it to drive again so any info is appreciated ! 🙏
Thanks!!!!
Got a new 1989 honda civic dx with a D15B2 in it, trying to learn more about cars and dont really know where to start with buying parts or where to buy from, looking for recommendations as to where are good sites to buy from and parts i should be looking out for to upgrade it.
Hatch or Sedan?
Before you answer -I’m asking if there are other considerations besides how flexible the hatch opening is.
Is the sedan more refined/ quieter to drive? Any difference is the dimensions of the cabin? Is the sedan a bigger car? What are the arguments for the sedan over the hatch?
I’ve been chasing a cooling system issue for a while now and could use some opinions before I keep throwing parts at it.
A few months ago I replaced the radiator (OEM-style), thermostat (OEM), and recently the radiator cap after chasing a coolant leak. I also found and fixed one leaking hose clamp. Ever since fixing that clamp, the time between needing to bleed the cooling system increased significantly, so I know I made progress.
The new radiator cap also seemed to help a lot. For the past week the car has been perfect. I’ve driven it hard, let it idle after spirited driving, sat in traffic, and even in 100°F weather the temperature never moved from normal.
Today it started raining, so I turned the heat on because it got chilly. The blower worked fine, but the heater never got warm. Shortly after that, the temp gauge climbed to about 3/4.
I got home and started bleeding the system. At first, once it got up to temp, the coolant in the funnel started rising. It rose more with slight revs, and after shutting the engine off it rose to the brim and overflowed a little. I let it sit for a minute or two, started it back up, and after that the bleeding process became completely normal. The coolant level stayed stable, even when revving, and didn’t continue rising.
One thing that’s been consistent through all of this is the heater. Before this past week when the cooling system has been performing good because of the new radiator cap, it usually takes around 15 minutes of bleeding before the cabin heat finally starts getting hot. Before that, one heater hose at the firewall will stay much cooler than the other before it eventually warms up.
Another thing I’ve noticed is that if I use the pressure-release lever on my new radiator cap while the engine is hot, the pressure is released through the overflow reservoir, and coolant will come out around the reservoir cap if I don’t release it slowly.
So far I’ve replaced:
Radiator
OEM thermostat
Thermostat housing
Coolant hoses & clamps
Radiator cap
Fixed one confirmed external coolant leak
I still think I have at least one more external coolant leak somewhere because I’ve found fresh coolant in the engine bay before, but I’m trying to figure out if something else is going on too.
I don't have any of the usual head gasket symptoms. No white smoke from the exhaust, no milky oil, no sweet-smelling exhaust, and the car has gone through plenty of hard driving and long idling sessions where the temperature stayed perfectly normal after replacing the radiator cap. Because of that, I’m hoping it’s not a head gasket, although I’ll admit I’m probably a little biased because I really don’t want it to be.
Has anyone experienced something similar on a D17?
Would you be looking more toward trapped air, another external leak, a heater core flow issue, water pump, or should I be doing a pressure test and block test before replacing anything else?
I got a honda civic 2010, the AC doesnt click when I put it on and is blowing warm air. Is there a likely solution or should I take it to the mechanics?
Thanks