Poor grab driver is fully illuminated with his screen and meter cluster.
It's a Proton Persona.
And that reminds me that I drive a Saga MC3 with blinding dual monitors.
First Time Buying A car
I’m looking for an automatic car that is:
• Reliable and low maintenance
• Cheap spare parts & repairs
• Good fuel economy
• Easy for normal workshops to service
• Unlikely to give major headaches after purchase
Budget: RM10,000 max.
What models/years would you recommend, and which ones should I avoid? Real owner/mechanic advice appreciated. 🙏
Views: Malaysia’s RM40b fuel subsidy bill highlights EV policy shortcomings
Malaysia is losing RM40 billion in fuel subsidy bill while slowing the EV transition whereas Thailand is spending RM25b accelerating EV adoption. The current nonsensical EV policy is supposed to protect Proton which is already owned by Geely, and Perodua which is severely slow in producing EV model. They even fumbled when launching the QV-E.
The government is also considering a new EV levy to increase the EV charging network. As if all the charging stations are owned by the government. So, the rakyat have to pay for the infrastructure, and pay some more to charge their EVs?
The government is contend with pocketing sales tax, excise duty (for locally produced vehicles) and including import duty for imported vehicles, leaving the rakyat with impossibly expensive vehicles with mediocre quality. With the current tax structure, the locally assembled Proton EV sold here is more expensive than the exact same vehicle exported to Indonesia. How f-ed up is that?
Maybe that's why there is no reformasi in the automotive industry and its policy.
0:55 the road and signs looks very familiar, and the train guy came here for train spotting not long ago
Hi all!, I need some advice from you guys here. I’m an expat working at an MNC in Malaysia, earning around RM5.5k nett/month, with relatively low commitments — mainly ~RM800 rent.
My parents are helping me buy a car in cash with around RM50k budget. I’ll personally cover maintenance, repairs and depreciation, so I want something reliable and that won’t lose too much value over the next 2–3 years.
Currently considering:
2020 Honda City — ~RM44k
2018 Mazda CX-3 — ~RM46k
2018/19 Honda HR-V — ~RM45–50k
2021 Proton X50 — ~RM53k
all with 60-80k mileage
P.S I only drive around 500km/month.
Which would you choose considering depreciation, reliability, maintenance cost and overall ownership experience? Also open to other 2018+ small/mid-size SUVs or sedans under RM50k.
Thanks in advance! Looking forward to hearing your opinions!
To start things off I am not really a car guy but I want to get a “fun” second hand/recon car since I recently got out of a bad break up which I used to spent around rm3-4k monthly to upkeep that relationship, I figured I might as well get a car to move on. I did extensive “research” as much as I can and I really hope to get some of ya’lls perspective in this realm of budget because I’m about to give up the whole idea of getting a car after diving more and more into it. A headache!
I do really want something nice like a Porsche (entry level, 2nd hand ones) but would be too much of a stretch overall after including maintenance and misc costs that would bring up the average costs of owning the vehicle. Other considerations (all 2nd hand btw or recon), cars like Lexus RX350, Supra 2.0/3.0, Z4, or any 2 door convertible, Merc E class? or AMG (lowkey dk what that is) I also thought about Alphard/Vellfire but would only make sense if there is a driver (which I don’t really need but would be nice tbh)
Anyway the above information is just to give a gauge of what kinda cars I’m looking at along w some context.
I’m just curious to see what are yall driving within this range and a brief breakdown on how comfortable or uncomfortable it is to own it. Feel free to comment even if its rm5-6k monthly or even 2k range per month.
Thank you everyone!
Recently got into a minor accident, other party has insurance, but refuse to pay or make police report.
So i made an individual police report on him (same day, with dashcam of whole incident). My intention is to claim his insurance since the accident was his fault (no brake and rear ended me). So i dont want to lose my NCD.
Im not in a rush, i have approx 1 month in KL, before going back to kelantan. But the officer didnt give me an estimated timeline, and she got pissed when i asked for clarification 10 days later cuz its my first time and idk how long these things take.
wow why suddenly delete all the videos? this might be the worse “s70 community”tt page in history honestly making the s70 image look like shit . they be shit talking conti cars saying how they can gap them with their “contikillers” cmon la your s70 not even 4 cylinder man plus all that trash talk just to get pressured by a stock engine CRZ? sad la😂😭
I've seen many people have varying opinions on the matter around some random FB group I come by, so I'm just curious what's the sort of opinion I can find here:
Example: You're on the right lane (of 3 lanes), speed limit for the highway is set to 90km/h. Most cars in the middle and left lane are traveling anywhere between 60-80ish. You're traveling at 90ish, sometimes exceeding it a bit. You're already overtaking most people on the other lanes.
In comes someone behind you, flashing for you to get out of the way but you're unable to find a gap because the neighboring lane is tightly knitted.
Is it still wrong for you to be on the right lane despite overtaking everyone else on the mid?
And before anyone asked- the highbeam guy ended up rear ending. And no, it wasn't me- it was something I witnessed on the ELITE highway 2 days back, I was chilling in the middle lane with the rest of the snails.
Daily drive for 12+ years, can’t drive too fast now because pending to replace all brakes. Consider very quiet cabin but plastic parts are deteriorating fast. Famously known for “dry” dual-clutch gearbox system that will get overheated when driving slow & crawling in traffic.
Love hot hatches.
If Ford still selling hot hatch I will still buy it, or Golf or Megane or Satria Neo, ..
Since last year, my Proton X70 (2025 MC2) has had an unresolved engine mounting and steering rack problem. After close to a year of back-and-forth with the service centre, I finally secured a Tribunal award for Consumer Claims order directing Proton to repair my car within 14 days.
Proton pushed the repair back to July.
When it was finally done:
🔧 Steering rack replaced — TWICE. The knocking sound is now more frequent than before.
🔧 Engine mounting replaced — now the WHOLE car vibrates, seat and floor included. Before this repair, it was only a mild vibration felt on the dashboard.
Yesterday, after a long wait, I finally sat down with Proton HQ’s technical team.
Their verdict: it’s my tyres.
I’ve been told to replace them immediately, or they won’t even able to proceed with further inspection.
The vibration that only appeared right after they replaced my steering rack and engine mounting is eventually caused by my tyres. My idling vibration on the engine and car seat as well as cabin is due to vibration transfer from ground to my tyres.
They said my tyre wear because I didn’t take care of my car tyres.
I check my tyre pressure every 2–3 weeks, keep it around 220kPa-230kPa as it fluctuate based on temperature. I wash my car at a carwash that is 3 minutes from home.
🚗 Proton X70 2025 MC2
📍 Mileage: 17,425km
📍 Age: 22 months
Would due to the unresolved steering rack and engine mounting issue cause the premature wear?
I’ll take their advise to change two tyres that is premature wear. Just wanted to know what the reason that cause that and how come tyre would cause immediate difference vibration right after the steering rack and engine mount replacement. The steering rack took tok sound also become more often and obvious..
Was surprised seeing how our cars (granted this was our first national car) were compared to more "atas" cars. Don't think most folks today would compare a Saga to a Celica, let alone Mercedez.
For those of you who were alive to experience these era of cars (like 80s-90s), how were our local cars perceived? (I know that having a car back then was a big deal but if y'all could share some stories that would be awesome)
Hey guys, I've been driving for quite a number of years already and generally I think I'm a pretty safe and okay driver.
But one thing I've realised is that I'm really bad at long distance driving. Anything more than 1.5 - 2 hours and I start getting damn sleepy and losing focus. All my past drives (KL > Penang, KL > Melaka), I've had to stop at R&R, take a 15 - 20 min power nap, then only continue.
I've got a longer drive for work coming up soon and I'm getting nervous just thinking about it
For those who regularly drive long distance, any tips on how to improve this?
Also curious if anyone else is like this. Did you eventually get better at long distance driving, or do you just accept that you need to stop and rest every couple of hours?
Thank you, sifus!
Dear Redditors and Bolehlanders,
As the title suggests, my CRV Gen 3 recently has been having some issues. 2 days ago, I noticed my car starting to overheat. At first it would go up to the mid-point of the temperature gauge and then it would climb to 2-4 bars over the temperature gauge. When I shut the car off, I noticed that the water in the reservoir would bubble like a kid blowing bubbles into his straw. I took the car to the mechanic and they changed the radiator cap but the car still blew bubbles from the radiator hose connecting to the reservoir. Mechanic dude looks at me and says “sudah meletup”. I’m pretty sure the gasket is blown however the engine oil isn’t milky on the dipstick or the engine oil cover.
I need to know what y’all think and any reliable engine specialist in the Klang Valley area…
Am a single 31M currently drive a Honda City 1.5 E (2022), looking to change to a fun daily driver. I get that the GR86 is going to cost a bit higher than the Mazda 3 1.5l, not only in terms of cost to buy, but also to maintain as well.
I'm not considering the 2.0 variants of the Mazda 3 as I feel I'm not getting that much more in terms of value for what I pay for, and that the GR86 (recond) provides a lot more bang for buck at a similar price point.
Personally, I love both cars, but I would like to hear some of your opinions on why I should get one over the other.
Hi! Am planning on a trip to Desaru soon. Driving a BYD Seal. I have only used the home charger ever since I got the car.
What app should I download for charging and I heard that there is also an app to plan out the charging route (where I can also set the battery balance upon reaching the destination). What is the name of the app?
Thank you sifus!
Hi r/kereta. Full disclosure: this is the official Paqar account. We’re the team building it and currently testing whether it is genuinely useful for Malaysian used-car buyers.
This will be our one self-promotion post here.
We built Paqar around a question buyers face every day:
“Seller is asking RM____. Is that price actually reasonable?”
You can test the free checker here:
Try Paqar’s free price checker
Enter the exact model and variant together, for example Myvi 1.3 X, followed by the year and seller’s asking price. No account is required. It returns a qualitative price verdict and the confidence of the comparison.
We want r/kereta to try to break it.
Comment with a real listing link, or share the model, variant, year and asking price. Please hide the registration number. If the verdict looks wrong, we’ll explain what it compared and record the case for correction. We won’t defend a bad result just because we built it.
Some honest limitations:
Paqar is commercial. There is an optional RM12 Buyer Report containing numerical market evidence and negotiation guidance. The RM88 report adds available insurance-claim and recorded-odometer information where recorded, it is not an accident-free certificate.
You don’t need to purchase anything to test or challenge the free verdict.
Give us your hardest real listing. Please be brutal.
hi i need help deciding on the car i want to daily. currently i am about to do internship outside of KL and there are no public transport. i need a car that can get me to work (~10km). my budget is around 5-6k. i like the satria cause of it’s design and endless possibility of mods, but for the same price i can get a waja mmc with 1.6L engine. which one do you recommend? please give ownership advice on both cars. thank you:)