Open class:
I saw this on a video and tried to mimic. But i was unable to have the rollers be as close to each other as in the video.
Does anyone have an idea on what they used?
Thanks in advance!
Including cleaning the bearings
Mach Frames Metallic version Philippine cup edition Fighting Korea V2 and V3
Era un po' che pensavo di ricostruire una delle mie fantasie dell adolescenza e ora finalmente ho la mia Dash yonkuro
On a mission to complete one of my childhood dreams 😆
It's been about 4 months since I start collecting Tamiya Mini 4WD, focusing on Let's and Go series. I'm trying to collect all the 32 manga cover boxes and the other 7 non-manga cover boxes with JP lot in the series. I still have eight boxes more to go, in which they include Beak Spider, Black Saber, Tridagger X, Shining Scorpion, Desert Golem, Rising Trigger, Storm Cruiser, and Vanishing Gazer.
So, these four boxes are one part of my Let's and Go Collection with Manga cover plus JP lot.
Hope these bring back some good memories to all of you here.
Cheers 💪😁
Hey everyone!
I recently started getting into Mini 4WD together with my wife, and we’re looking for friends around Tokyo/Saitama who also enjoy the hobby 😊
We’re still beginners, and I’m still studying Japanese, so English would help a lot for now haha.
Would love to meet people, race together, learn setups, and have fun!
Thanks!
Finally finished my first BMAX machine!
Built on an FM-A chassis with a Mach Frame body.
Still learning a lot about tuning and setup, but I’m really happy with how it turned out.
Tried to build something clean, stable and fun to run.
Now it’s time for track testing
Any advice for a first BMAX setup?
I wanted some advice on building my own Mini 4WD. I believe that I essentially have all the required pieces to build my own from ground up. Am I missing anything? Did I get any I correct parts that I need to return/replace? (I don't want to open anything g that I can not use, and I'm not too interested in cannibalizing my other kits)
Not sure if this is a good idea. Saw this in an online store and thought it would be a good way to clean motors. Just load it up with contact cleaner and give it a low voltage spin to clear out the carbon gunk.
Might even be a good platform to do immersed motor break in as well (never tried so I don't know how well that works).
What do yall think?
Hey! I’m posting this to show some of the insight of my build and setup that won first place in open class at the Tamiya US GP regional kickoff race a few weeks ago. My build was a suspension ms “flex” chassis. I was running both systems made by Beck.jp on instagram. It’s the 3b rear system and Glide front system. I had a Machdash motor with 3:7 gear ratio. I had 2mm blue breaks slightly angled on front with about 75% of it taped. For rear I had about 2.5mm blue fully taped. The front didn’t need that much adjustment because the break plate is already angled. I had the rear fully taped because i needed the rear break but without tape, it was hitting the banks to hard and slowing down a lot. Also had all low friction tires trimmed to 23.5mm. This setup let me push my car with 1.57 charge neochamps. During the first 2 rounds we couldn’t change batteries but I was able to pass with it. Then for semi finals and finals I lowered my charge to about 1.5 to make sure I didn’t course out. This was the first race I did with the build and I don’t think it could’ve had a better debut haha.
My 3rd FMA / Mach Frame
Fighting Korea pack but used grey chassis instead
9mm dar + 19mm rear (not yet track tested so not sure about the performance)
The side stays are above the wings (not sure if this is good or not)
All low fric - but will switch to Super Hard rears
Thoughts?
What do you think of the build?
The Mild Seven R25 built for Bmax sort of now survives a technical track while on 3:5:1 and HD3, while the TS050 Hybrid, on Stock Advance, weirdly wins a race despite falling behind at the start of a technical track.
Despite that, they won a few practice runs casually.
From Mini 4WD Racing's FB Page
From Tamiya JP's Facebook Page
Gonna be racing this tmr, not sure what im doing and ive never gone bumperless before. Chassis is ... much more flexible than i thought, even with the carbon fiber piece i installed in the middle the whole thing has some good deck flex (not sure what words to describe it, again new to VZ)
The rear is a simple long tail, the kind that's build for ME, FMA and basically anything where the rear can be bumperless. Its a brake plate + one stick + an underguard of your choice, this is a pretty common idea and easy to setup. If you don't want to use the stick/popcicle u can use other mounting plates but for me i've never seen em (mostly because its seems a bit unecessary, whereas the stick does the job especially if you are using 13mm or 19mm rollers for the rear).
Front is a simple fully cowled, extended brake plate (i'm not sure if this is correct, but I wanted the brake plate to be stick out like that because that's how it normally sticks out if there was a front bumper (so when i'm checking my brake clearance, the brake plate is still where I expect it to be (obviously you can completely forgo this front option, again i have no idea what i'm doing for VZ i'm coming from an MA (so its very... very different experience).
I have a power dash, spring dash, and hyper dash that i'll be testing this with, i hardly use single shaft motors, so i'll figure it out as I go. Enjoying the build for now. Simple, easy to assemble.
Hi everyone, these are my beloved Let's & go Mini 4WD cars, i want to protect the stickers wich have a pretty bad glue and are peeling off in some areas. Can i use clear coat on the bodies to protect them and make them stick? Or will the clear coat ruin the stickers? Thanks in advance