r/minibikes

Still a work in progress but I’ve got the lights wired and working properly. I need to put the brake switch in the handle and then I’ll shrink wrap all the wires together, make it look nice and neat then tuck it all the way.

When setting valve lash, the motor is at top dead center but there’s so much play in the rockers. Do I need to push them all the way down on the push rods to set the lash correctly?

Tillotson 212 swap, added a torque converter. She wants to wheelie off the line, handles the hills like
a dream. Pops, a lot

Silly question, I know, but I’ve never worked with these carbs before, so, is it choking it when I have the lever at me like in the first pic, or is it choked in the 2nd pic where it is pushed back and lifts some sort of pin up that is between the carb and air flow?

Completely stock 212 predator I left it sitting jet went bad decided to replace and upgrade some stuff I did the intake and exghuast kept the stock carb and have a 35 jet in currently. The 38 jet was shooting a small flame and stalling out after letting go of the gas After a few test rides. The whole thing just feels slower I know the stock jet was a 28 I didn’t expect to go a whole lot faster if at all with the governor still in but not sure why it feels slower now TIA

This is a mini bike I worked on for a friend. He named it Goldie.

The bike originally came from a farm in Wisconsin, and was painted green and yellow. The green and yellow could be for the “Green Bay Packers”, or for “John Deere” farm equipment. Probably doesn’t matter.

I assume it was a kit from the 1960s. Some mini bike kits were sold as individual preformed tubes that needed to be welded together by the purchaser. The frame has all stick welds. None of the tubes on this frame are aligned or symmetrical.

While none of the tubes on the frame are aligned, the frame itself is perfectly straight. It must have been welded together on a jig. It tracks perfectly, and the rear axle is perfectly aligned with the motor mounts.

The wheels are mismatched. The front wheel is wider than the rear, and has an odd locking needle bearing setup. The rear wheel is mounted on a live axle, and has 16 bolts (not kidding). The wheels were obviously not made for a mini bike. The farmer, I’m guessing, put the bike together with parts from other farm equipment.

The bike really is ingenious, and we tried to keep all of the “original” parts. It’s heavy, but it runs great. I added the forward foot pegs because the owner has really bad knees.

Anyway, it looks like a farmer’s old stock car, that he takes to the track on Saturday nights. Then he takes it back to the farm, welds it back together, and is ready for the next Saturday’s race. Just for fun...

Just curious what are some ways besides the governor delete that i could get this predator 79cc to speed up some more. About to mount up some 15 inch tall turf tires from a mower I parted out just looking for more suggestions.

Just got an absolute steal on this bike, only thing it needs is the idle adjusted due to a new carb. Is there any way to easily dial it in?

ALSO, fuel line has small air bubbles in it that you can see going to the carb, does this affect anything?

Pull chord was also shot, had too much slack and broke when messing with it off the bike, so got a new one coming. Maybe that will help fix it as well cause it will be easier to start.

Wheel is spinning weird and riding weird , can anybody tell me why this might be happening if you have had a similar experience?

Man, hurry up and ship!! lol .. cannot wait for these to come in

I know it’s not a minibike but it’s the same minibike motor. It’s a brand new 140 cc lifan/offbrand motor.

I have a 24 nibbi carburetor on it and while I’m playing with tuning, I feel like when I correct one problem another one happens.

I’m 200 feet above sea level. As of right now, it seems like the 35 pilot jet works better than the 40 that it came with. I have the needle on it highest/richest setting with the 35 pilot and a 115 main. The air screw is turned out about. I would say one turn.

It starts an idles fine the problem I am having is if you hit the gas slowly, it will accelerate fine, but if you mash the gas it like hesitates before it goes, and sometimes if you hit the gas hard enough, it just shuts off entirely. This seemed to be worse when I had the .40 pilot and the needle in the center setting.

what I’ve tried-

1.) 40/112 (stock settings) ran but same issue

2.) 50/130 wouldn’t run or start (guessing too rich)

3.) 40/108 ran same issue

4.) (current situation) 35/115 ran but same issue

5.) number four above, but raised the needle all the way. Same issue but marginally better.

I’m not sure if it’s a main issue or the needle issue but I’m having a hell of a time figuring out if it’s a rich or a lean bog because I’m not really seeing definitive color on the spark plug

Is it possible to rotate this nipple? In its present position, it points right up to the gas tank with no room for a filter.