r/n54

Been into BMWs since I was a kid. Had an E46 323i, E39 530i, two 335is, now an F30. Six plus years of continuous ownership and I still get annoyed every time I need to drag out a laptop or borrow an Android just to read a code or check live data.

I'm a developer so I just built the thing myself.

BimmerFix works with your MHD WiFi adapter right now on N54. No new hardware, no laptop, no Android.

What it does:

• Full DTC scan across DME, EGS, DSC, ACSM and more with real ISTA descriptions
• Live data: boost, HPFP, LPFP, rail pressure, lambda, VANOS, IAT, coolant, wastegate duty and more
• Freeze frame so you can see exactly what the car was doing when the code set
• Read and clear codes without touching a laptop

Beta v1.7, being honest: Core stuff works well. Just fixed a temperature scaling bug this week. Some things are still being built out. If something doesn't work on your setup I genuinely want to know, N54 feedback is exactly what I need right now.

iOS: bimmerfix.app

What live data channels do you actually care about on the N54? Dyno pulls, track days, daily driving? Let me know what matters to you.

I would need some help from someone who would know. I had an issue when I shut off my car without pressing down on my clutch my transmission would make a rattle sound like marbles in a can. If I would let go the clutch quickly and then press it again it would also make a weird metal on mental sound near the bell housing area. Last symptom was the gas pedal felt super sensitive and the car would buck as if the power transfer from the engine to transmission wasn’t smooth at all very jerky and Bucky kind of feeling. I decided to drop the tranny to look and I’m not sure if my DMFW is bad or not. Is this play normal ?

Keep getting 29F4, 29F5 catalytic converter conversion 1 & 2 code and car still drives fine any idea if this is just a silent exit of my o2 sensors
NB. Don’t mind the other codes they have been sorted

I was working on my car it had a dead battery which I went ahead and replaced and I was checking some fuses because I had some strange issues like windows won’t go down and a/c panel, and I drive knob don’t have power to them when I scanned the car this code came up along with other ones for 02 sensors which I know are bad what could be the issue here the car was running fine before no misfires or anything just a blown valve cover gasket and a bad radiator
P0300
P0230
P0026
P2401 / P2419

This might be a little bit lengthy, but please bear with me recently. My car has been leaking coolant, and I just found out that it’s coming from the radiator by putting water into the reservoir and seeing where the leak comes out from after I did that I jumpstarted the car cause had been sitting for a little bit and I also realized that my windows wouldn’t go down in my AC unit was also non-responsive and also my eye drive knob as well with that being said, I did get a new battery right after this and I want to start my car in the car starts doing what is pictured in the video I also replaced 110 V fuse. I’m not sure if maybe I’d put a fuse back somewhere wrong because earlier in the day my car was starting fine after I jumpstarted it but now it’s acting like this, and I also put a list of the codes that it has. Thanks for you guys help
P2419
P2401
P316A
P0135
P0036
P0050
P0030
P0300
P0026
After I was missing wrong with the fuses when the misfire started happening, so I don’t know if it be related to that or what do you guys think?

I replaced the PCV Valve to an upgraded one I thought that would resolve the issue but it didn't. The smoke is like white smells burnt and doesn't smell sweet. It smokes randomly sometimes it would just stop smoking and then later it comes back. How can I fix this?

Lately I’ve found out that my 335is started smoking. It is only happening after 2/3 minutes from starting the car, later it disappears. Do you think that turbo seals are gone?

Recently I’ve changed PCV valve and Chargepipe on metal elements. Previous Chargepipe had few drops of oil on intercooler side.

Does anyone know what could be wrong?

This is after changing the alternator. It starts right up, but the idle is so rough that I’m not sure what it could be. The car has been sitting for a month and a half.

hey yall, so i previously had made a thread about this, currently the car is having a crank no start issue, actually it only cranks on a charger because thats the only time its got enough voltage to crank.. to start from the beginning as quick as i can, one day i was driving to work, pushed it a little bit on the hwy but nothing too hard at all, as soon as the car came to a stop to back into my spot it was pissing coolant, a decent amount too, checked the reservoir and didnt look like it dropped a bit, checked for leaks throughout the day or any signs of a broken hose, couldnt find anything, drove fine no leaks until 1-2 days later i was on the way home from work and i was passing a car, not even building a full lb of boost and the car just fell on its face and died, luckily was able to get it pulled over and stopped with almost 0 brakes or steering and got pulled home.

so after the codes i was getting i was just gambling on it being the main dme relay so i got one and swapped it on up at the dme box, nothing, so i started testing x60001 connector pins 26 and 15 and then checked wire 1 and 2 on the back of the main relay, along with the rest of the wires just to make sure, from what i believe everything seems fine.. going to do a recheck today while car is on charger since that is the only way it will stay at 12v.. not even minutes of it being off a charger and it will drop to 5-6v and everything starts going crazy, headlights flickering and fuses in the junction box ticking like crazy until it just completely drains and dies. I did check fuse 37 and 4 in the glovebox with ignition on and they tested good.

I grabbed the battery from my moms mini cooper, which is the same size and everything as my current battery, still wouldn’t start and brought back 2acb and 2acc codes immediately after clearing, the one thing i didnt do was check to see if that battery also drains like mine does but it was plugged in for a bit while i messed around and it didnt die. So i do think my battery is bad but its only 2 years old so something has to be failing and draining my power..
it cant just be the battery because even with a good working one it still had issues, granted i didnt register that one i tried but you only have issues with unregistered batteries after a few days or so from my experience.

Just extremely lost, its been close to a month now i believe that the car has just sit in our shop at home and i need to get it back running. I am no diagnostics mechanic i can just figure easy shit out and pull off/install parts.. so this is really throwing me.

Any help is appreciated, miss my baby🤣

so finally dug into my motor this was stuck up behind the phaser and another piece was i cleaned it all out really good. Spun the motor over a couple times to make sure it was all clean. Make sure there's nothing in the valley. i had code p0015 now after cleaning the belt out i get 2a99 mind u i bought it from some guy for 1000 bc the belt got sucked in and he had all the work dont in the pics none of the phasers look messed up they're actually matching the target points on a scan tool. what do u think it is? also cam lobes look fine from what i could see

Just bought a very good e93 335i , bonestock and just a map . Has 106000km on it , but does not make any boost and doesn’t throws errors. That’s the Sound on Idle , I don’t hear something suspicious