r/n54

Had to fight to get this off looks a little beat up upon cleaning it the best I can. What do yall think?

Здравствуйте, стоит ли мне беспокоиться при виде таких металических частиц в фильтре, мой n55 stage 2, ездит и производит такие частицы уже достаточно долго около 30 тысяч км, как только я его купил. За это время работа двигателя не ухудшилась, но я не могу понять откуда берутся эти частицы, при том что кто-то говорит что это не нормально, кто-то наоборот

Hey all,

I'm posting here because I'm clueless on why my 2010 e92 335xi keeps shredding serpentine belts. Within a month, I had two belts shred. I figured there had to be more to the story so I bought a laser tool to check pulley alignent and replaced the oil filter housing gasket. This is the first startup after replacing the OFHG and installing a new belt. I wasn't expecting it to shred so quickly, obviously.

All pulleys seem solid. I spun them, checked for any that were loose, but they seem fine. There was a bit of grime around the OFHG indicating a very minor leak, but all three shredded belts don't seem to have any oil on them.

Engine mounts are also a common cause of this issue, and it's so difficult to see them without ripping half the front end apart, but I doub't they're the issue. They do have 160k miles on them, but from what I can see, they're not entirely obliterated, and I doubt it would cause a brand new belt to shred like this at idle after just a minute of running.

Anyone else have a similar nightmare story? I cannot seem to figure this one out. Any help would be much appreciated!

I bought this car when I was 19 I bought it because it was stick and I wanted to learn manual, later to fine out it was the base model so I decided to go stance car with it (low and slow) but now that I’m in my 30s I want something I can enjoy on the weekends. Is it better to swap to and n54 or sell it and start over? Also I’m having a hard time finding a 135i manual for sell

2016 Subaru Forrester knock in the engine. This vehicle does have a turbo. It also stalls out with no jerking involved at stops occasionally since this started. The sound does increase when the gas is pressed and slow slows down when idling.

I’m putting together a single-turbo 2008 E92 335i N54 and already have the JackSpania forward-facing 90mm intake manifold with the included PI fuel rail.
I’m planning to run DW 750cc port injectors with a MOTIV ReFlex+ and already have a Precision Raceworks Stage 3 bucketed LPFP. My tuner has said the factory fuel lines are sufficient for my power goal, so I’m mainly trying to figure out the manifold/rail installation itself.
For anyone actually running this manifold or the identical Phoenix/eBay version:
What fittings/adapters did you use to connect the factory fuel feed to the supplied PI rail? Exact AN sizes/part numbers would be appreciated.
Does the supplied rail use standard injector dimensions and did DW 750cc injectors fit correctly without spacers/adapters?
Did you have any fuel-rail sealing or O-ring issues?
What fuel pressure are you running at the PI rail?
Did the manifold have any vacuum/boost leaks after installation? Any ports/plugs that needed resealing?
Does the 90mm throttle body cause any clearance issues with the radiator fan, charge piping, coolant reservoir, power-steering reservoir, or anything else in an E92?
What charge-pipe/coupler setup did you use to reach the forward-facing 90mm throttle body?
Did you retain the factory MAP/TMAP arrangement, and where did you mount the sensor?
How did you handle the brake-booster/vacuum connections and other factory vacuum connections?
Any modifications required for the wiring harness, PCV system, or catch-can routing?
What manifold gasket and mounting hardware did you use?
After running it for a while, have you had any cracking, loose fittings, boost leaks, or other reliability issues?
Pictures of the fuel-feed connection and installed manifold would be extremely helpful.

I have a 2008 E92 335i and I’m converting the front end to OEM M3 dimensions. I already have OEM-width carbon M3 front fenders and I’m getting an OEM E92 M3 front bumper. I’m keeping the stock 335i rear quarters.
I want to run M3-style side skirts/rocker panels made specifically for the non-M E92 335i, NOT genuine M3 skirts.
Has anyone actually run this combination?
Mainly wondering how the front of the 335i M3-style skirt lines up with the wider M3 front fender. Does it sit flush, or did you have to reshape/modify the front portion of the skirt?
Pictures would be really appreciated.

My N 54 recently stalled and won’t turn back on. I ran the codes and changed both low pressure fuel pump and high-pressure fuel pump. When I was changing those I could tell fuel wasn’t reaching my high-pressure fuel pump so that’s when I replaced the low pressure fuel pump and still nothing. I can hear the low pressure fuel pump turning on but gas is not getting to the high-pressure fuel pump. Any ideas?

Replaced two leaky injectors all are index 12, new spark plugs gapped to .022, with raceworks coils and a new lpfp and currently on MHD stage 2+ runing 93oct I’m having a issue when under high load like a 3rd gear high rpm pull around 6400 to 6900 it will misfire and shut off a certain cylinder sometimes it will misfire one cylinder or multiple, more typical 4 through 6 and It happens every time I get near that rpm range under that load and I have a hpfp shadow code. But less aggressive pulls like in 2nd gear and day to day driving the car is fine starts up quick but sometimes a slightly lumpy idle I’m assuming my hpfp is going out but looking at logs when the misfire code goes off I have 1500+ psi more typically around 1800 psi. I’m wondering if there might be anything else to try before replacing the pump

Doing the HPFP, throttle body, valve cover, and charge pipe. Once it’s all put back together and I’ve cleared the codes do I need to relearn the throttle adaptation?(fuel pump plausibility, throttle position sensor malfunction, and a boost control code can’t remember the code but it’s not the 30ff code or whatever that plagues these motors. I’ve already fixed and gotten rid of the VANOS and misfire codes.)

Is there anything else I need to do once it’s all put back together? Just looking to be as confident as possible if codes come back that I’ve performed the install correctly.

Thanks in advance!

My 135i was totaled a few years back and I never got around to unmarrying the AP before I got rid of it.

Last I checked you were still able to send these in and Cobb would unmarry it for a fee.

First person who wants it and pays shipping can have the accessport and cable :)