r/ncmiata

Doing the transmission service. Using Motorcraft for the oil probably about 40000-45000 miles on this oil change. Is this a concerning anount of metal debris on the drain plug? I've taken the car to NC and back 3 times on this oil and I drive it daily.

The button/ latch to my cup holder slider that helps you click it closed and open is jammed and the whole thing gets stuck / paused on the track when I try to slide it

How do I go about fixing this? Do I have to order an entirely new center console panel or is there somewhere I get can just that slider piece?

It’s a 2015 , so the slider thing is leather

Hey everyone,

2008 NC, 64k miles, all original wheels. I did something stupid and clipped a curb with the left rear at maybe 20mph. Cracked the wheel and the TPMS light came on right after. I didn't drive the car after the hit, instead I got it home on a flatbed. Here's the other post about this with the video.

Tires are Bridgestone DriveGuard Plus 205/45R17 88W run-flats, not stock, they were on it when I got the car.

Standing on level ground, that rear wheel looks like it might be sitting slightly different than the other side. Honestly it's subtle enough that I'm not sure I'm not imagining it. Car hasn't been driven much since.

Here's my plan:

1. Order a replacement wheel. Found a replica of the OEM 10 spoke, ALY64887U20N, 17x7 +55 5x114.3, JWL certified. Ships without a TPMS sensor.
2. Take the cracked wheel and tire to a shop, have the tire dismounted and inspected inside for a pinch or a broken belt since run-flat sidewalls hide damage. Transfer the TPMS sensor to the new wheel.
3. Once the new wheel is on, go to an alignment shop and ask them to measure it and show me the before numbers without adjusting anything yet. Specifically individual left and right rear toe and camber, plus thrust angle and setback, not just total toe. (Asked AI for this suggestion)
4. Buy zero suspension parts until I have that printout.

My thinking is that if everything pulls into spec with the cams in a sane range, it just got knocked out of alignment. If a cam runs out of travel, something is bent, and the rear toe link could be the suspect.

Questions:

- Is going to the rack first the right diagnostic move here, or is that overthinking it and I should just visually inspect the links?

- Any shops I can take it to for diagnosis in the Queens/LI area in NY?

- For those who've curbed an NC rear, what actually bent? Toe link? Lower arm? Knuckle?

- Anything I should be checking that isn't on my list?

- Should I be worried about the hub bearing from a lateral hit like this?

Not trying to do this on the cheap, just trying not to guess at parts. Appreciate any input. Pictures attached.

Hey everyone,

I did something stupid and hit a curb. How bad is this damage on my 2008 NC.

I created this post to share this video. Original post is here.

What parts am I looking to replace and where should I get it diagnosed? I’m in Queens/LI area in NY.

Any shops you’d recommend? Thanks for the inputs!

Has anyone come across this rattling sound before between 2.5-4000rpm? If so what seemed to fix it or is this normal for NCs?