r/ps90

I bought a ps90 a while ago and when I first took it out to shoot, it worked fine, for about 2-4 magazines, so a couple hundred rounds, after that, EVERY time I try to chamber a round, it will end up vertical wedged between the bolt and barrel, sometimes other ways as well but that's the most common, even if it does chamber a round and fires, it will do it again within the next couple rounds, ive cleaned it well multiple times and still get the issue. After cleaning it, I may get one full magazine out of it and back to the same issue. Somebody help please. I bought this gun BRAND NEW. im gonna be absolutely pissed if I spent 1600 bucks on a paperweight. Especially since right after I bought the gun I pre-ordered an XPRT trigger pack for it before I started having issues, anybody had this problem and found a fix?

Having been tweaking on FRT for the platform since before there were commercial options available, I figured trying both of the ones you can buy off the shelf currently would be a fun back to back comparison.

I'm putting the XPRT and WD in the same basket as they are functionally identical, with the primary differences being the XPRT bundle has CNC aluminum hammer, lever, and forward sear, where my particular WD setup ran a CNC Delrin/POMH hammer and the stock sear, with both printed and metal levers.

I had been running the XPRT/WD setup since the file was first posted by $RANDOM_BANNED_OP, as I was already set up with a first-gen hammer and three position aluminum selector from working on my own FRT before commercial options were available. I decided to pick up a RATL-R just to make a direct comparison, and because I have multiple PS90's.

Some notes about the XPRT/WD:

• Not the most efficient means of harvesting the energy available in the cycle due to multiple stages of high friction elements

• Easy to bind the bolt by pulling too hard on the trigger, can be eased with overtravel limiters

• Achieves the trigger reset on the back-stroke as part of the hammer reset action

• More true to the original design intent in its simplicity (IMO)

Some notes about the RATL-R:

• Gets its energy directly from the bolt on the return stroke

• Less potential for bolt binding, but pulling too hard will still interrupt the cycle

• Works with any three-position selector, not just the printed one it ships with

• More involved disassembly/cleaning routine due to having to take the RATL-R sled out before you can remove the bolt

The quick version is that both of them work, get one, get both, you'll have a good time.

The ungineer tweaker in me doesn't think either solution is ideal.

The XPRT includes some unnecessarily blingy parts in the form of the CNC'd hammer/forward sear. I prefer to keep the trigger pack as close to original as possible, so using the original sear with a Delrin hammer was preferred. The moment you make one part in any mechanical system stronger/harder, the next weakest part in line is going to be the one to fail or wear prematurely. I believe this is why they went to the extent of including the forward sear in metal. There is more friction in the trigger pack, and you can feel it during the reset.

The RATL-R sled seems a bit fragile to me, only time will tell what sort of longevity it can attain. There is more friction in the RATL-R system on the trigger pull side of things due to the large surface area of the sled and that it kinda forces the trigger bar rods outward a bit, and you can feel it during the trigger pull. That being said, the overall feel of the RATL-R during operation is a bit more operator friendly than the XPRT/WD. You don't have to be quite as mindful of what your trigger finger is doing. It is however more of a task to break down and clean, which does bother me a bit.

Rounding the edge of the hammer to free up the reset as described in the RATL-R install video can benefit both systems. Getting full mag-dumps on either of them is more of a challenge than it would be FA, but that's the price we pay to stay legal.

Both of them are a good time, both of them do the job roughly equally, both of them will send dollars downrange in fantastic ways.

This is just my $0.02, I am not in any way affiliated with either company and gain nothing no matter which one you choose. We all benefit from you choosing one though, because in-common-use will help them remain above board, so get out there and BRRT it up Stargate style.

Short and stubby is an absolute must. But $1.2k has me wondering if there are other stubby 556 options with good sound

In light of the Silencer Shops victory against the ATF, I’m very enticed to get my first can. I’m curious as to what y’all are using. Flow through? .22, 556? Frt?
I am wanting to hear everyone’s opinion and experience.

looking for a good generic brand for range training and I’m curious are the keltec p50 50 round mags any good when used in a ps90 compared to the single factory 50 rounder mine came with. if the keltec mags are junk could anyone recommend a suitable genetic for training purposes

Hi Y'all,

My darling is currently in the hands of u/eMGunslinger getting it's overdue circumcision, and I already have an FRT, so getting a can for it is going to be the next step in my plan for world domination. There are numerous posts I read regarding the best performing, longest lasting, most reliable, quietest, etc. etc. cans, but what's the best LOOKING can for an SBR ps90? It seems most all of the cans people regularly recommend here are pretty much all the same generic looking black tubes. The only one I've seen so far that has a bit more style to it is the YHM Fat Cat.

With a gun as unique as the ps90, style points are something I want to take into account rather than just raw performance numbers. I figure any decently well made can is going to be effective enough for my tinnitus-ridden ears.

Bonus points if you can post a pic with your ps90 and it's can.

TYIA!

NSFW I’m looking to get the most of my money back on my ps90 where’s the best place to go that don’t try give next to nothing in Louisville Kentucky

So yesterday I have finally started to install the Dorin FRT90. It has not gone very well. The install video kinda sucks, my hang up was I couldn't get the pin all the way through the (disconnector?) and the big spring in the middle. I was using the supplied jig and I just couldn't push or drive the pin the last little bit all the way through.

Now I would up pulling the pin all the way out and the big middle spring popped out and I have no idea how to orient it back into place correctly.

Any tips, pics or other vids my GoggleFu may have missed. Appreciate it