Theres a crack clean through the spoke. I want to tig weld it, but wanted to make sure i wasnt missing an obvious alternative first. I google lens'd the center cap. Apparently the brand is enkei
For 2000 toyota rav4, i know. Long shot. But wanted to check first
Hi. Just for those wandering how silver Braelin BR10 wheels look like on a Cloudburst Grey IS300.
At first I was planning to go for all black wheels, but changed my mind and chose silver. I like them, add some character to the car.
they are 5x100 r17, et 35, i ve been looking at ats, oz, speedline, Team Dynamics, but i still didnt find this exact model. Thank you!
I found a good deal on 265/60/17 Nokian WRG4 tires but cant settle on a colour of 17” rim. The bronze is $216. Black ones are $217.
It pains me to say this… but I’ve bent my rear passenger rim on my k5 because of a pothole :( !! The dealership wants over $1,400 for ONE rim. Can anyone steer me in the right direction for a more REASONABLY priced rim? I’ve searched and ebay is the only place I find rims at but im not sure if these listings are bs or real… if anyone knows a better place, lmk! Thanks!!
Recently purchased used car. Had my tires replaced yesterday at discount tire, once I got home I realized my rims were scratched to hell. They were willing to fix it but asked if my rims were powder coated. Have no idea how to tell and was willing to know if anyone could help me identify this
Now let’s have it all you haters. Over here on the left I want all you purist haters to get in line and tell me that a great “factory” wheel is the wholesome thing to do! Everyone else come over here on the right and let’s talk about who can now find me a set of Cragars for my boat dammit! I’m not going to be able to sleep now.
I run a wheel manufacturing operation, so I spend a lot of time thinking about why wheels look the way they do. Most of it isn't styling — it's heat. Figured some of you might find the breakdown useful, especially the EV part at the end, which trips a lot of people up.
The short version: nearly every performance wheel is "open" (lots of gaps between the spokes) for three reasons — more surface area to shed heat, a path to funnel cold air into the brakes, and less unsprung weight. None of that is aesthetic. It's the wheel quietly helping your brakes not cook themselves on a hot day.
A few things that actually move the needle:
Spoke shape. Classic thin 5- or 6-spoke designs leave big gaps and breathe really well. Multi-spoke / radial patterns are similar. The "full face" / disc-style wheels you see on a lot of luxury cars look great but trap heat — sometimes they'll actually hold it in.
Open area ratio. This is the real fight: more openings = better cooling but more drag; closed face = less drag and better range/MPG, but worse cooling. There's no free lunch.
Surface finish. Boring but real — gloss black soaks up and holds sun heat, bright/chrome finishes reflect more. Color isn't only cosmetic.
Now the part that surprises people: EVs. Manufacturers love closed aero wheels on EVs because range is everything and a closed face cuts drag. But EVs are heavy and their brakes (when they're not regen-ing) have to absorb a lot. So you've got the worst cooling design bolted onto the application that arguably needs cooling the most. That's the compromise engineers are quietly fighting every time you see a slick closed EV wheel.
Material matters too — aluminum is light and strong enough that you can run fewer, thinner spokes and bigger openings, so it ventilates better than steel almost by default.
Curious what the people here think: would you trade a few miles of range for a more open, better-cooling wheel on an EV? Or is the closed aero look just the future and we live with it?
I’ve recently unearthed a full set of these Zender Turbo Phase 1 alloys from the back of grandfather’s old garage (Surrey Area). These have been sat untouched for years.
I’ve heard from a recent post these are quite rare. Given their condition I just wanted to get some expert eyes on them before listing them on eBay etc. Any valuations or opinions are welcome!
Also sitting on a couple other interesting old sets from the same garage which I’ll post another day when I get the chance.
Have some old rims i had in my garage that were given to me a few years ago wanted to know what rims they were if possible thank you!
Im a teen and my parents just got my car about 2 months ago, I’ve done minor things like take the chrome off my mirrors and handles, changed my steering wheel logo, and blacked out my badges and emblems. Theres other stuff I want to but I want to tackle the most expensive thing. Rims. Those 2010 civics come with the ugliest rims! And yes I could get hub caps but even good ones are hard to find! My rim size is a 16” and I want to keep it like that but oh my gosh is it hard to find some. Folks on tiktok only talk about Alibaba but don’t give any vendors, I search the web and untrustworthy websites with bad reviews show up, I tried market place but the ones for my car they are either selling the same rims or the rims are just not the right size for my car. I plan on keeping the tires because I just bought them so. Any suggestions?
While sending the wheels out for painting, they found a small crack which they then welded like this... In your opinion, is it safe?
Have a 2026 M240i with the square 995m wheels ( all season runflats 225/40/19). 19x8 Stock et is 27 on all 4.
Buying some 19x9.5 and new tires, however I want a white wheel so my options and stock are limited. Rsther than take the one sales guys word for it, i try to do research because I want "a bit" more flush. Online says a RANGE of different things, so i call a few places to confirm and THEY all have different specs. One wheel and tire place says i need to go et 35. One says 30. One is 32. One place told me 25. A wheel manufacturer that are all made to order recommended a 15 or something crazy. A guy online shows pics saying he's running 20 and lowered. Everyone i question tells me to go measure. So, I follow everyone's advice and go measure fender clearance using a string and weight and measuring to my wheel lip and the outmost point of my tire. Im getting approximately 5/8ths of an inch, OR 15.875mm.
I go on "willtheyfit.com" and play with sizing. It says my stock "poke" is 75mm; so an 8 inch wheel with et20 will gain 7mm, 9 inch wide and et30 I'll gain 9, 9.5" will get me 11mm at 86mm "poke".
So ok, i convinced myself a 9.5 with 35 was the best option, if I want more, I can add spacers; which I'd rather not do if I csn get it done right, but im not wheel offset genius.
I call to order one of 2 wheel options, give the guy the specs, tell him ive been so confused and why. He says, "ill call the manufacturers and see what they say". One wheel manufacturer has no bmw data and doesn't think they will clear brakes. Awesome, thanks for not trying to sell me broken dreams im stuck unable to use. The 2nd wheel manufacturer says, oh yeah, we have not only the data, we have our own m240, and we run 19x9.5 with a et22 AND a 2mm spacer! So that's what's recommended to me. Im perplexed here.
Without the spacer on that spec wheel, will it fit says im gaining 15/16ths... almost a full inch of "poke". Where the he'll do i have an inch of room!? I didn't place the order. I asked what happens if they are wrong and they dont fit and I got "i dunno, we've never had that problem before"... that wasn't the most reassuring answer I wanted. I dont want to pay for and sit on wheels no one can use.
Unless im misunderstanding "poke", or someone here with experience can back it up, or give me real personally used specs, im super hesitant to buy any wheels now. Im hoping im just psyching myself out...
Anyone? Thanks in advance