r/volt

Firsr time poster, didn't know volt was even a subreddit but glad yall are here. As title says I'm considering buying a 2018 Chevrolet Volt LT FWD. 127k kilometers for $12,500. I'm driving a 2004 Chevy Impala LS and commute about 80-100km per day and the gas is killing me. Wondering if theres any major things to look for or issues I need to be aware of.

I don't remember how long this has been going on, but it's been a while. The heat in my dad's Volt only works when the engine is running, and the check engine light occasionally turns on. The car has 66k miles. I attached a screenshot of the codes. The dealer wants $4k for a new High Voltage Coolant Heater Module. They said they did a software update and cleared the codes, but the engine light came back on during the drive home. I only paid for the oil change and left. I'm going to a smaller shop to get the axle and transmission cover fixed, both of which are leaking. I changed the air filter myself after I picked the car up. I know this heat issue is common, and I was wondering if this is actually the issue or if it could be something smaller, and the stealership is wrong about this. They didn't even reset my oil light. :\

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New (to me) 2016 Volt. AC season has arrived and I’m getting the classic dirty socks smell for the first minute when you turn on the AC. would like to flush the condenser coils and need to find the drain line on this car which seems to be hidden. anyone found it that can clue me in? Also, do you have to take it in to the dealer to get the afterblow feature turned on? volt App maybe? Thanks for any help!!

My 2017 Volt has been in the service center since the end of December, waiting on an under-warranty battery replacement that may never happen. Is Chevrolet manufacturing new or refurbishing old batteries? I don't know. But there are plenty of stories of people, like me, left hanging for months and even years, then offered a buy-back. I don't want a buy-back; I want a car that runs, preferably my Volt. The car is worth more to me than the cash it appears Chevrolet is likely to offer for a 10-year old car with 90,000 miles on it.

What about the other option: Instead of accepting a buy-back, take the car back and cough up the $3000 to $6000 to install a battery refurbished by a third party?

I've read about people's buy-backs, but I haven't read about anyone who went the route of having a remanufactured, third-party battery put into their second generation Volt. What are the pros and cons of this? Yes, I realize I'm talking about a battery with no warranty from Chevy. But some of the buy-back amounts I've read, for a 2017 LT with my kind of mileage. . . well, that's a pretty limited warranty from Chevrolet.

Hi all, yet another one of those...

Here is the thing, my Volt has 250000+ and way out of warranty.

I believe I had the BECM issues fixed back in my first few years with the car and that would have been covered by warranty.

My question to you all, at what point do you consider the car to be scrap because it becomes a money pit?

The car was rolling fine before the classic Shift to park issue likely caused by the BECM issue (intermitent at first. Car starts after reset and then next time wont start, no charge possible even though it was fully charged, etc).

What to do with the Volt? Repair and hope for a few years out of it? Or trade for as much as possible? At what point is it considered dead?

A few months ago my wife’s infotainment screen went black in her 2017 Volt. The radio and screen won’t work EXCEPT for the backup camera display. None of the car sounds work either, like turn signals, seatbelt ding or door ajar ding. I tried soft resetting and checked fuses (may not have checked correct ones) but haven’t disconnected the battery yet to let the car reset. Any recommendations on what I could check to try and fix this issue? Specific fuse location recommendations would be nice too😁

I recently started commuting around 100 miles per day, great timing with fuel prices right?? So..... I'm looking the gen2 Volt and there are a couple for sale locally. Is there a way to tell how much life is left in the battery? Is it miles based or is the battery not always being drawn from? I can inspect a gas vehicle pretty decent and do a lot of my own maintenance but I'm new to the hybrid world any advice to find on as reliable as possible is appreciated!

As the post says, anyone know why all 4 windows automatically roll down? It’s becoming more frequent, and I’ve never seen it happen. It’s luckily nearing warm weather here in the PNW, but obviously not a good thing.

Any ideas why and possible solution?

But this time, it seems more dire. EGR replaced six months ago. Recent hiccups where I’ve had to force restart a few times to get it in gear, but this past week shift to park happens every single time at startup. Fiddling takes 10-15mins generally, and is a safety concern. Is this the easy DIY fix many have talked about, or does it indicate a larger problem?

So I did a stupid thing i bought a volt. I did a test drive I checked everything I could I did like 70km I drained battery to see what happens when engine kicks in and no erorrs so I proceeded and bought it.... And suprise suprise literally next day I sit into a car and check engine it's allready there. error code suspect a battery heater problem (so that explains why it's popped up in the morning or maybe through the night when it's colder and wasn't there a day before when it was relatively warmer)

So my question is how bad it is? And will replacing it ruin me financially? Quick search say whole battery pack needs to be dropped from the car to access it so I suspect it's tricky repair

Hi Folks

My 2017 Chevy Volt with 98k miles recently went into limp mode. I took it to the dealer and they diagnosed a wiring/harness issue inside the transmission, which they replaced under warranty.

But after the repair, the technician test drove the car and the exact same trouble code came back. Now they are saying the issue is actually a transmission part itself, not the wiring. They also told me that even though this specific part is covered under warranty, they believe other transmission components may also be failing, and they want me to pay around $12k for a full transmission replacement.

What confuses me is that the part they are talking about is inside the transmission and supposedly covered under warranty. If other components were damaged because of that failing covered part, why would that become my responsibility? Or home come the car is driveable if transmission is failed. They also never told me earlier that they found debris when they removed the valve body.

This whole situation feels very strange and unfair, and honestly it feels like they are trying to make me participate in the cost even though the original issue was warranty related.

I am planning to sell my 2017 Volt Premier tomorrow, and I'm looking for a reason not to. I love the car, but I've hit a wall with a scary brake issue and I refuse to keep throwing much more money at it. I'd put $500 more towards it if it were a permanent fix.

Here is the breakdown of what's happening:

• Problem and sunk costs: Shortly after purchasing the vehicle from a Kia dealership in late January 2026, the Stabilitrak and CEL lights came on and the brakes started feeling very squishy and unresponsive. I had the car inspected by a mechanic shop which told me the cylinder needed replacing due to not pulling enough power. But a day later, the codes and squishiness went away. That lasted 5 weeks. Then it came back and caused a $2400 wreck in body repair costs. After which I decided to get the cylinder replaced, which cost $1500. So now the issue has cost me $3900. I got the car for $10,400 so I figured I could justify these expenses to get the car in perfect working order.
• After the master cylinder replacement, the Stabilitrak and CEL lights came back on and the brakes started feeling somewhat squishy again, though not as bad as before the cylinder replacement. I can clear the codes with an OBD II scanner but I don't feel safe in the car. The cylinder-replacing mechanic tells me this issue is probably related to the electrical system/ABS, and doesn't have to do with the physical braking system with which they found no problems.
• Code: The car is currently throwing code P25A2 (Brake System Control Module Requested MIL Illumination). But the BECM recall was fixed before purchase, according to Chevrolet. I can clear this code but it comes back within a day or two and the brakes are squishy again. The braking also never feels totally normal, even with codes off.
• Notably:
  • All factory recalls were completed before I purchased the car.
  • The EGR valve and wheel speed sensors have been checked and are fine.

Am I doing the right thing by letting this go tomorrow? I'd prefer to keep it but am about fed up and thinking I got a lemon.

My Chevy Volt is currently on its way out, so I’ve been searching for a new car. I’ve considered buying another Volt, and since I wanna stick with electric, i was curious about the Bolt. I was wondering if anyone has driven both and can tell me how they compare/which one you prefer?

The charger they gave me with the car didn’t work and looked fried so I just purchased a new charger, so right now I am running off gas still getting 300 on one tank. What’s some tips for these cars? Accessories I should buy?