Because the 2012 Chevy volt has a different mechanism when it comes to how it accuses and charges the 12 volt battery in the trunk. Would I be able to get a regular battery test if I go to autozone? I mean would they be able to give me accurate results on my battery if they plug in that thing but they usually do on the standard cars
Just now I attempted to remote start my car with the key fob to run the AC before driving it as it's hot out and the car had been sitting in the driveway in the sun all day. The remote start wasn't working so I went out to the car to start it from inside the car. I started the car cranked the AC to max low and went back inside to let it run while it cooled down.
I went out to the car a few minutes later when I got in the car hadn't cooled down at all and was blowing hot air. I also noticed I couldn't turn the steering wheel, and when shifting to to drive or reverse I got the "shift to park" message on the dash. That's when I noticed the CEL. I scanned the codes and they came back with P0AC4, P1AEE & P1AEF.
2017 Volt just over 100k miles
UPDATE: went back out the the car a little later (Car had been sitting unplugged at that point, not sure if that makes a difference), and I was able to start it and put it in gear. The CEL remained while I drove it for a few errands but went away after a restarted a few times.
If it doesn't come back I guess I'll chalk this up to ghosts in the machine
Hello yall!
Just want to get a really check for some repairs I need to get done on my Chevy Volt 2017. I’m in Massachusetts and the car has 86k miles.
Check engine light came on for knock sensor module. Mechanic shop is quoting me $650 to change the sensor plus gaskets (due to having to take the intake out to change it). I also need to get break pads and calipers done (yeah I know I probably fucked up here) and he is quoting me $750 for both rear break pads and calipers done.
I Googled it and it seems reasonable, but I would like a reality check on these prices.
Thanks in advance!
So just got a 2011 the beginning of August bought it as my doordash car as I needed something more fuel efficient, did great on the 300+ mile drive home averaged around 36-38mpg, but in the 1300 miles since then doing doordash it's averaged 23.4mpg, I charge it to 60-80% everday as time allows since I'm offgrid with solar so cannot charge overnight. The car also refuses to go into EV mode or switches back and forth, it'll do 3-5 miles in EV here and there it seems at random, along with starting the engine just to top the battery off when I'm sitting parked just to run the AC even though the battery shows 20+miles of range or half full. I'm leaning towards a Cell headed on the way out or failing BECM
Anyone here successfully add carplay to your factory headunit? I just got my car this weekend so I'm not super familiar with it yet.
Do those wireless dongles that you plug into the usb port work? Do we even have a usb port that connects to the stereo?
If not, what are my other options to add it to the factory stereo. I'm not interested in an aftermarket headunit
I can't afford over $2500 to replace the EGR valve in my Volt so I'm wondering if anyone has a suggestion. I've seen DIY videos using Purple Power but I'm too elderly for that sort of work anymore.
It started with a "reduced power" alert & I saw temperature start to climb to 240F, so I pulled over and had it towed to a dealership. They're recommended service for $2551.99 is for -
Engine Repair - EGR Valve, EGR Valve Gasket x2, 50/50 premix Dexcool x2, 15A fuse
Codes were -
P0030, P0031, P0401, P0403, P0405, P0443, P0458, P0489, P0597, P0598
I posted earlier —posting again with updated info and questions. I took my 2017 Volt to the dealership (I hate dealerships, but no one seems to know where else to take it in my area of SE Michigan) because of a battery warning light and “propulsion power reduced”message.
Dealership said EGR valve and cooler needed to be replaced and quoted me $5000 for the privilege. The main code is P00B7, but there were many others. (I can’t see to post the screenshot here atm).
R/volt users have recommended that I replace the fuse, clean the EGR cooler, and unplug the EGR valve.
NEW QUESTIONS:
Thanks a million!
Due to the (2017) Volt's parking spot in our garage taken up by a large lawn tractor, I haven't been charging it at night for the past two weeks and only running on gas only.
This morning, the Volt wouldn't start, not even the key fob center console spot wouldn't start the car.
Is it weird that batteries would die in the heat of summer? I would associate that with the coldness of winter. Thinking about it more, the battery needed a jump last winter due to extreme cold so maybe I just need a new battery?
What app do yall use to find chargers? How do i know what chargers will fit my 2017 premiere? Do i need to get one of those tesla to J771 adapters?
So last minute camping trip and I don’t have time to get a hitch and install it. Would this setup work?
** thanks everyone! We made it!
I am researching used vehicles to buy and considering a hybrid. Someone in my area is selling a 2015 base Volt with 110k miles on it for $7,000.
But I don’t know much about this vehicle. Can I charge it up at a charging station? How long will it take to charge? I read that the BECM can fail. How can I make sure the car doesn’t have any problems before I buy it?
What is it like owning this vehicle?
I'm looking into getting a used car to last me the next five years or so. With rising gas prices I would prefer a plug-in hybrid, and I'm hearing a lot of good things about the Volts. If I get a used 2019 or 2018 Volt now, is it likely to last another five years? Or is it likely to need an irreplaceable new battery or other irreparable part before then?
Hi guys,
I have a 2017 Volt, it's been about 3 weeks since I bought it and just now I encountered my first "shift to park" issue.
Do you guys think it's covered in any kinda warranty? I called the Chevy dealership and the service advisor told me I'll have to pay around $350 to fix it.
I'm in North Cali and It has 83k miles. Is there any workaround?
Please let me know, thank you!
Okay, just got voltage to see how bad things were and it doesn't look pretty. The story is I've got a 2018 volt, owned it its whole life, with 138k miles on it. I live in Colorado (a CARB state) and had pack 1 replaced at about 65k miles and pack 3 replaced last week. Was driving on Friday and noticed it would kick the ice on every so often like it was in hold mode but didn't think much about it. Then as I was pulling up to a friends place to help them move a couch I got a propulsion power reduced and OnStar came back with a P0AFA. Left the car idle while moving the couch and limped it home. Dealership said it was too late in the day but to bring it in Monday. Downloaded Voltage and its showing a voltage mismatch likely causing the codes, which makes sense.
Couldn't get the car out of park so guess it won't be driven to the dealership tomorrow rather I will need to get it towed (backed it in for this reason).
I'm guessing the dealer will try and replace pack 2, assuming they can find one. I was pleasantly surprised they could find a remanufactured one for pack 3 in about 3 weeks. Is there a world where GM wi push back on that?
I'd rather have the car than a buyout, especially since any buyout I expect will be pennies on the dollar compared to a new car cost. So what do we think is going to happen and what should I be fighting for?
So it threw a code, blew fuse #3. guess what it is? (facepalm)
I pulled the connection to the EGR. Wanted to take a hammer to it but cooler heads prevailed. Changed the fuse and reset the code but the CEL came back on. (expected)
Mileage went down by about 5MPG. I drive 70MPH 90 miles each day. I can still buy an extended warranty and it seems good. I know. there is no such thing, like unicorns.
The language is kind of obscure as to whether or not the EGR would be covered.
"exhaust systems including catalytic converters". Ok, so CC is called out, but not EGR. Is it part of the exhaust system? You can win that argument either way. Generally though, you'd say it IS part of the exhaust system.
I'm reasonably capable mechanically. Worth a cleaning? Will I have to do it again in 3 months? Worth a swap? Are there decent available? they look expensive AF. Some Chinese eBay rebuild that is $900? Ugh.
Should have gotten a Prius.
Anyway. Advice? Put it across the railroad tracks?
Is this electrical mileage good or is my battery goin? I've been doing a lot of highway driving, and it's been over 85° F with high humidity where i am
Wizards of Voltage, what do you think? Finally got myself an OBD and did my first scan. The value of these Volts has dropped so much, I would like to drive it into the ground.
Thanks for your thoughts!