This is a complete outdoor plant. Can anyone tell me if it’s the right time to cut some parts of my plant. Any good video recommendations that explains when and where to cut the plant for maximum bud development would be very helpful.
Let me be honest with you. Watering sounds like the easiest part of growing weed, but it's the thing that kills more plants than pests, mold, and bad genetics combined.
Grab a seat, because I'm about to save you years of frustration and a whole lot of dead plants.
New growers love their plants too much. They hover, they fuss, and they water way too often because it feels like they're helping.
The truth is that good watering is mostly about knowing when to leave your plant alone so the roots get the oxygen they need.
When I started out, I watered my plants every single day like clockwork. They drooped, the leaves showed leaf curl, and I assumed they were thirsty, so I watered even more.
I drowned them. All three. Turns out I'd given them root rot from a nasty pathogen called pythium, and droopy leaves don't always mean a thirsty plant.
I know you came here for a number, like water every three days, but I'd be lying to you if I gave you one.
Watering frequency depends on pot size, plant size, temperature, humidity, transpiration rates, and your growing medium. Anyone who hands you a fixed schedule has never actually grown a plant.
Your plant drinks based on conditions, not dates. A hot, dry week with high evaporation means more water. A cool, cloudy stretch means less.
Stop watering by the calendar and start watering by the plant. That single shift will make you a better grower overnight.
Here's the trick that genuinely transformed my growing. Lift the pot.
Water your plant fully, then lift the pot and remember how heavy it feels. Now wait. Lift it again the next day, and again the day after.
When the pot feels light, it's time to water again. Your hands become a more accurate moisture meter than anything you can buy.
If you're not confident with the lift test yet, stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If it comes out dry, water. If it feels damp, wait.
This is how you nail the wet-dry cycle, which builds strong roots and a healthy taproot.
Your plant's thirst changes dramatically as it grows. What works for a seedling will drown nothing and starve a flowering monster.
Seedlings have tiny roots and need very little water. I mist around them or give small amounts near the base every two to three days.
Overwatering seedlings causes damping off, the number one killer of young plants. Less is genuinely more here.
During veg, your plant is building roots and leaves fast, and good nutrient uptake depends on proper watering. In a properly sized pot, you'll usually water every two to four days.
Keep an eye on your pH and PPM in the runoff so you catch problems early. Watch how quickly that pot gets light.
In flowering, water demand peaks. Underwater now and you risk drought stress that stalls bud growth, while overwatering invites nutrient lockout.
Just ease off slightly in the final two weeks as the plant winds down toward harvest.
A small pot dries out fast. A large pot holds moisture for days and can easily stay soggy, leading to soil compaction that chokes the roots.
This is why air pots and fabric pots are popular. They boost aeration and let roots breathe. Match your pot size to your plant size and watering gets easy.
Your growing medium completely changes how often you water. They're three different games.
Soil holds water the longest, so you water less often. Mixing in perlite improves drainage and keeps things from getting waterlogged.
Soil is the most forgiving medium for beginners, which is exactly why I recommend it to new growers.
Coco is treated more like hydro than soil. It drains fast, so you water more often, sometimes daily, watching for nutrient burn if your feed is too strong.
Coco lovers feed every watering at a light strength. It's faster growth but more hands-on.
In true hydroponics, roots sit in oxygenated water, so watering frequency barely applies. You're managing the reservoir, checking EC and keeping root health in check instead.
Different system, different rules entirely.
Indoor plants live in a controlled climate where vapor pressure deficit stays stable, so watering becomes predictable once you learn your setup.
Outdoor plants deal with sun and wind that can dry pots out in hours. Always adjust to the weather.
Overwatered plants look droopy, but the leaves feel firm and swollen, almost puffy. The soil stays wet for days and you might see yellowing.
Overwatering suffocates the roots and triggers serious plant stress. If your plant looks sad and the soil is still soggy, the answer is not more water.
Underwatered plants also droop, but the leaves feel thin, dry, and papery. You'll see wilting and the soil pulls away from the edges.
The good news is that underwatered plants bounce back fast once you water them.
When you water, water properly. Use clean water quality by letting tap water sit out so chlorine off-gasses, or use RO water to avoid chloramine issues.
Give enough so that about 10 to 20 percent runs out the bottom of the pot. Both top watering and bottom watering work, but always soak the whole pot so the entire root zone drinks.
After two decades of growing, I can tell you that watering is less about a schedule and more about paying attention. Your plant is constantly telling you what it needs through its leaves, the pot weight, and the soil.
Stop counting days and start reading your plant. Master the lift test, respect your pot size, and let that soil dry out between drinks. Do that and you'll never drown another plant again.
Let me tell you something nobody wants to hear. You can grow the most beautiful plants on the planet, and if you screw up the cure, you'll be smoking harsh, scratchy, hay-tasting garbage with zero smoothness and brutal harshness on the throat.
After two decades of growing, I can promise you the cure is where the magic actually happens. Let's get into it.
Most new growers harvest, dry for a few days, jam everything into a bag, and start smoking. Then they wonder why their bud quality is mid and the smoke quality burns their throat.
Curing is the slow, patient post-harvest finishing process that separates mid weed from top-shelf flower. It's also free, which makes skipping it even dumber.
Drying is the fast removal of surface moisture from your buds over about a week. Curing is what happens after, when slow chemical changes inside the flower break down chlorophyll and develop aroma.
Think of drying like searing a steak and curing like aging it for thirty days. Both matter, but the aging is what makes it incredible.
During the cure, enzymes break down sugars and starches that would otherwise ruin your smoke. Chlorophyll degrades, terpenes like myrcene, limonene, and pinene mature, and flavonoids develop deeper complexity.
The slow conversion process is sometimes called decarboxylation when heat gets involved, but in the jar it's mostly enzymatic. Pretty wild when you think about it.
You can't cure weed properly if you harvest at the wrong time. Nailing the harvest window is half the battle.
Grab a jeweler's loupe or a cheap USB microscope and look at the resin glands, also called trichomes. You want mostly cloudy with maybe 10 to 20 percent amber for that classic balanced high with peak THC and CBD levels.
All clear means you're too early. All amber means you waited too long and your couch is about to swallow you whole.
The little hairs on your buds are called pistils. When about 70 to 80 percent of them have turned from white to orange or brown, you're getting close.
I use pistils as my rough check and trichomes as the final verdict on potency. Together they never lie.
Drying is step one of the cure, and rushing it ruins everything that comes after. Slow and steady wins every single time.
I hang my whole branches upside down in a dark room with a small fan running for steady air circulation, never directly on the buds. Darkness prevents UV damage and light exposure that destroys cannabinoids, while the fan stops stagnant pockets where mold loves to grow.
For smaller harvests, a drying rack works just as well. A carbon filter in the room keeps the smell from announcing your hobby to the entire neighborhood.
Aim for 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 60 percent relative humidity. The growers I know call this the 60-60 rule.
Too hot and you cook off your terpenes. Too humid and you risk botrytis, also known as bud rot, or even powdery mildew wrecking the whole batch.
Typically seven to fourteen days, depending on your environment and bud density. Snap test is the easy way to know you're done.
Bend a smaller branch. If it snaps cleanly without breaking all the way through, the outside is dry but the inside still has moisture. That's exactly where you want to be before jarring.
Wet trimming means cutting away fan leaves and sugar leaves right after harvest, before drying. Dry trimming means hanging everything intact and trimming after the dry.
I've done both for years. Dry trim takes longer but produces smoother smoke and better-looking buds. Your call.
Once the snap test passes, it's time to put your buds into curing containers. This is where patience pays off in pure gold.
Plastic leaches chemicals and absorbs smells. Metal can rust. Wood is unpredictable.
Glass mason jars with proper sealing lids are cheap, airtight, and they let you see what's happening inside. Some pros upgrade to CVault stainless containers or Grove Bags that use TerpLoc technology for hands-off curing.
Fill your jars about two-thirds full, never to the top. You need air space for the buds to breathe and for moisture to redistribute evenly.
Cramming jars to the brim is the fastest way to get moldy weed. Don't be that grower.
Burping means opening your jars regularly to let out moisture and refresh the oxygen inside. This is the heart of the cure.
Week one, I open every jar for ten to fifteen minutes, twice a day. Week two, once a day. Week three onward, every couple of days.
After thirty days, I might burp once a week just to check. Set a phone alarm so you don't forget, because forgetting is how good weed goes bad.
You can start smoking after two weeks and it'll be decent. After four weeks it gets good. After eight weeks of a proper slow cure it gets unbelievable.
Some growers run a cold cure in a basement on prized strains for six months. I've personally cured for ninety days and the difference between week two and week twelve was night and day. Niche methods like water cure or dry ice cure exist too, but they sacrifice flavor for speed.
Curing isn't set and forget. You have to actually watch your jars.
If you open a jar and it smells like wet hay or fresh-cut grass, your buds were jarred too wet. Take them out, lay them on parchment paper for a few hours, then jar again.
That hay smell never fully goes away if you ignore it. Act fast and you can save the batch.
White fuzzy spots on your buds mean mold. Throw away anything contaminated immediately and never smoke it.
Mold loves humid jars, so this is why burping and the two-thirds rule matter so much. Prevention beats cure every time.
Once the cure is done, store jars in a cool dark place with Boveda packs or Integra packs to lock humidity in. I use 62 percent humidity packs because they hold the perfect range without overdrying.
For multi-year storage, some growers go all in with vacuum sealing or light-proof Mylar bags to maximize shelf life. Stored right, properly cured weed stays smokeable for over a year.
Curing is the cheapest, most rewarding step in the entire growing process. It costs nothing but time and attention, yet it can take average bud and turn it into something you'd happily pay top dollar for at a dispensary.
If you grow your own and don't cure properly, you're robbing yourself. Slow down, trust the process, and your future self will thank you every single time you light up.
Alright, gather round, because I'm about to save you from the same heartbreak I went through in my second-ever grow. Picture this: I'm four weeks into the cannabis lifecycle, plants looking lush, and I'm already counting buds in my head.
Then bam, one staminate plant decides to drop pollen grains all over my tent and ruin every female in there. Twenty years and a few thousand Reddit threads later, I can spot a male in seconds.
Timing matters more than people think during the pre-flowering phase. If you don't know when to start looking, you'll miss the early signs of sex determination and pay the price later.
For regular photoperiod seeds, pre-flowers usually start showing somewhere between week 3 and week 6 of veg. Males almost always show first because of how XY genetics push them to reveal earlier than females.
Autos like Lowryder descendants move faster than gossip in a grow forum. Expect pre-flowers around day 21 to 28 from germination, since their light cycle doesn't dictate flowering.
This is the big one, the smoking gun, the reason you clicked this article. Male plants develop tiny round balls that are actually stamens waiting to mature into anthers.
These aren't calyxes, they're male flowers packed with pollen, and once they swell up and pop open, your grow is toast. No white hairs sticking out anywhere, just smooth round balls.
Check the nodes, which are the spots where branches meet the main stem. That's ground zero for understanding plant morphology and spotting reproductive organs early.
Grab a jeweler's loupe or even your phone's macro lens. If you see a round structure on a tiny filament with no fuzz, no hairs, no nothing sticking out of the tip, you've got yourself a dude.
Males are the lanky, awkward teenagers of the cannabis world. Their phenotype tends to stretch faster and taller than females during late veg.
If one plant in your tent suddenly looks like it's trying to touch the lights while the others are chilling, raise an eyebrow. It's not proof on its own, but it's a strong tell.
Mother nature gave males beefier stems for a reason rooted in cannabis genetics. They need to hold up all those sacs and shake them around to spread pollen on the wind.
When I'm walking my garden, I literally pinch the main stem between my fingers. The thickest one in the group is the one I keep my eye on.
Females spend energy building bushy, leafy structures because they're prepping to hold heavy buds full of trichomes. Males don't bother with that nonsense.
You'll often notice your male has fewer side branches and the leaves look a bit sparse compared to the others. It's like the plant skipped leg day.
This is the dead giveaway nobody talks about enough. Pistillate pre-flowers have two tiny white hairs called pistils sticking out of a teardrop-shaped calyx.
If you've been staring at a node for ten days and still see no white hairs, that's your answer. Males skip calyx development entirely and head straight to sac formation.
Female pre-flowers look like a tiny teardrop with two wispy white hairs. Male pre-flowers look like a round ball on a short stem, totally bald. Once you see both side by side, you'll never confuse them again.
Males tend to develop sacs in tight little clusters, sometimes five or six bunched together. It almost looks like a tiny bunch of grapes forming, which makes sense since cannabis is a dioecious plant built to spread pollen widely.
Females develop their pre-flowers more spread out and singular. So if you see a cluster vibe happening, your alarm bells should ring loud.
After twenty years, you develop a sixth sense. Sometimes a plant just looks different, and you can't always explain why.
The bract structure on a male is slightly elongated, hanging a touch lower, and has a different posture than female pre-flowers. Trust your gut here, it's usually right.
Don't panic, but don't dawdle either. Once those sacs open, pollen grains go everywhere, and I mean everywhere, including your clothes, your hair, and the other tents in your house.
Move that plant outside the room immediately, into a sealed bag if possible. Then take a breath and decide what to do next for proper pollination prevention.
If you're growing for buds, just chop it and compost it. If you're into seed production, isolate it in a separate space far from females and collect pollen carefully.
Some folks also use males for hash or fiber, but honestly, most home growers just toss them. No shame in that game.
The biggest mistake I see on Reddit every week is people pulling a plant too early based on stem thickness alone. Don't do that, wait for confirmed signs from the reproductive organs before chopping.
Another rookie move is ignoring hermaphrodites with nanners. Sometimes a stressed female grows banana-shaped pollen sacs along with pistils, and that's a whole different problem to handle.
Spotting an early male is honestly one of the most valuable skills you'll pick up as a grower. After two decades and countless tents, I can promise you the patterns repeat themselves every single time.
Sacs without pistils, tall stretched stems, thick trunks, fewer branches, and clustered node growth, those are your seven flags. Catch them early, act fast, and your sinsemilla harvest will thank you.
This is my second time growing, I’m sure still got more time to grow. But what do y’all think any ideas ?
Will this marshydro 6inch marshydro kit plug into the spiderfarmer ac5 power lead as if it was a spider farmer kit. ????
Because they are all RJ12 CONNECTIONS ?
Explanation:
Sorry if i miss anything I tried including everything
This is my tent/Grow box I made, it’s 2.5x2x5.5ft
I have 2 exhaust fans (computer fans) I change the speed depending upon the time of day(normally on high)
I have mini carbon filters on the outside of the exhaust fans, I know it won’t do much, but it’s to help.
I have 1 intake fan
I have 3 fans inside that circulate air
Humidifier that keeps the humidity right
Average temp 72-78 F
Average rh Day:60-64% Night 55-60%
Soil:Happy frog (Fox farms)
Watering PH: Started watering at 6.5 PH last week
Lights: Spider farmer SF1000d 100Watt
Vipar P700 70Watt
SB1 is on day 46, and SB2 is on day 42
SB 1 in 3 gallon fabric pot
SB2 is in a 1 gallon plastic pot
Didn’t have enough soil for second plant to be up potted
Planning on getting more soil but idk how long I have until it would be root bound, I think I still have time though
A branch broke off of SB1 and so I cut it and tried turning it into a clone. I think it may be taking root as it’s having a little new growth
SB1 was watered today(300ml)
SB2 was watered and fed today with 125ml
Open for any tips/tricks.
What should I change?
What looks good?
Lmk if I missed anything
Hey everyone how yas doing just wondering how my plants look bubba kush and gg4 the just wanting to get tips to get better more dense and tricome rich buds and just any recommendations in general feel free to dm to cheers
Woke us and it was looking like this anyone know why?? What did I do wrong for it to getting this way. Need all the help I can get.
11 days old from sprout
73F temp
75% humid
230 par with top lights 3ft away and side pole lights set to 30 par roughly 10” away
20/4 light schedule
Grow peaceful premix buckets
PH from tap is 6.6 consistently
2 fans running 60%
Don’t use nutes since it’s premixed.
~Dos Si Dos Auto BF in first picture~
~Runtz Auto BF in second picture~
I have noticed the first set of leaves on Dos Si Dos are curling down on one side and up on the other.
Let me know what you guys think, Any tips and recommendations on what I can be doing differently would be appreciated. Thanks!!
EDIT: how do I tell when it’s in veg lol
The Honest Answer Nobody Gives You Upfront! Pull up a chair, friend — I'm gonna shoot straight the way I wish someone had back in '04 when I cracked my first feminized seed. Real answer? Between 2 and 4+ months, but most folks selling you the "8 weeks bro" dream are conveniently skipping the cure.
My first run in a closet with a janky CFL setup took nearly five months from germination to a proper joint. And I still rushed it. Plan for four months, celebrate if it's faster. Growing weed indoors is like baking sourdough — rush it, and everyone tastes the shortcut.
Let me walk you through this like we're sharing a beer. Four chunks of time matter here, and each one builds on the last like a stacked deck.
Once your taproot pops (2 to 7 days depending on your method), you're in seedling mode. Lasts 2 to 3 weeks, and your plant looks like a sad little weed. Don't drown it — root rot is the silent killer of newbie grows.
Then comes vegetative growth, lasting 3 weeks to 2 months. Run your light cycle at 18/6, dial in your pH levels around 6.0 in soil, and watch her eat. Skip nutrients you don't need — nutrient burn is real and ugly.
This is also where plant training matters. Topping, LST (Low Stress Training), and SCROG setups can double your yield without adding a single day. Autoflowers, thanks to their ruderalis genetics, flip to flower on their own — faster, but smaller buds. Trade-offs, always.
Flip to 12/12, and the magic starts. Flowering runs 7 to 12 weeks based on cannabis genetics — indica-dominant hybrids finish around 8, while sativa-dominant hybrids can drag you out to 14.
I once grew a Durban Poison that took 13 weeks. I was checking trichomes with a 60x loupe daily like a jeweler appraising diamonds. Worth it? Yes. On a deadline? Never again.
The first 2 to 3 weeks bring the "stretch," where plants can double in size. Plan your grow tent height, or you'll bend colas sideways like I did when mine grew into the LED. Also, dial in your VPD — humidity and temp balance makes or breaks bud density late in flower.
Listen up: don't skip the cure. Dry your harvest 7 to 14 days at 60°F and 60% humidity, then jar it for 2 to 4 weeks minimum. I cure 8 weeks now because patience pays in terpenes and smoothness.
Fresh-dried weed tastes like hay and burns harsh. Cured weed preserves cannabinoids, smooths the smoke, and brings the flavor. I once smoked 3-day-dried bud and it tasted like a lawnmower bag. Never again.
Autoflowers are the real shortcut — seed to harvest in about 10 weeks. But you'll sacrifice yield and potency. Photoperiod plants reward patience with bigger, denser buds.
Things that actually help: full-spectrum LEDs with a solid PAR rating, stable temps around 75°F, an exhaust fan with a carbon filter, and proper flush in the final week. Things that don't: playing music, talking to your plants, or those sketchy "booster" sprays. Save your cash.
And please — don't harvest early. Wait for milky trichomes with some amber. Pull too soon and you'll get a racy, weak high. Nobody wants that.
Here's the truth: growing weed indoors is a 3 to 4 month commitment minimum, closer to 5 if you cure properly. That patience IS the product — there's no hack worth the hit in quality.
For your first run, pick an indica-dominant hybrid, veg 4 weeks, flower 8, dry 10 days, cure 3 weeks. That's roughly 16 weeks — your realistic timeline.
Anyone promising faster is lying, growing autos, or selling a course. I've been on every cannabis forum since MySpace days — plants grow at plant speed. Always have, always will.
So crack that seed, set up your grow tent, and settle in. The payoff at the end? Worth every single day.
Another light defoliation today and first lot of nutes added 1ml cal mag 1ml bio bizz grow 1ml bio bizz bloom - 1L of water / any suggestions please let me know
Update on my 8-plant perpetual style grow. What a difference a month makes!
I thought I would be fine sprouting 2 seeds in my veg tent every 2 weeks and putting 2 into the 4x8 flower tent every 2 weeks. Well, I had some clones left over from practicing cloning (I am bad at it in non-aero cloners), So I started the process using a few of those. Because of this I ended up having only a week in between the first 3 sets of plants because of how everything grew in veg. Luckily the estimated flowering times are estimated to still be near 2-week windows of harvesting, and the plants are showing different maturities. I snaped the other plant in half that was supposed to go in at the same time as the biscotti while it was in veg. I probably will no longer top because of this.
The last photos are the veg tent. It is a 1.5ft x 3ft tent, the ones nearing their flip period are Gopher glue (top) and Space panda (bottom). Seeds planted 4/5. The babies are Mendo Cookies and Gorilla Strawberry Diesel, planted 5/03. I have been learning to leave the plants in the small grow bags for longer so hopefully I can control when they are ready to go into the flower tent better. I believe I can now continue with planting 2 seeds every 2 weeks and not run into a bottle neck like I did with the clones that I should have just trashed as they were part of a fil tent and harvest all at once process. I am going to aim for between 12 to 16 inches at flip.
Everything is fed Athena Pro line at 100% from the beginning. Debating on running another feed line into the flower tent so I can run their Fade regimen for the plants that are nearing finishing.
Thanks for looking!!
Idk if my plant hermied, if so is my whole grow done for?