u/-peterstock-

Image 1 — SNES output board
Image 2 — SNES output board
Image 3 — SNES output board
Image 4 — SNES output board
Image 5 — SNES output board
Image 6 — SNES output board

SNES output board

Maybe a bit niche, but if you want to use your joystick on a Super Nintendo/Famicom, you can build a board to let you do this quite cheaply.

I thought my GP2040-CE did SNES output, but it turns out I was mistaken and it's SNES input, i.e. connect your SNES controller to the GP2040-CE and use its USB output. I only realized this after having a quick look through the GP2040-CE code and seeing only input functionality.

So I had to make another board to get SNES output. It turns out it's quite simple - just 2 (cheap) parallel-shift chips and some pull-up resistors.

I just connected my controller buttons/stick (signals and common ground) to both boards to use the 2 control boards in parallel. I chained these off my GP2040-CE screw terminals (you can see this in the first photo - white wires go to the SNES board). So there's no need to run dual wires from the buttons themselves.

Only the GP2040-CE is powered if I connect via USB cable, and only the SNES board is powered if I connect via the SNES cable.

I followed this circuit diagram:

https://gamesx.com/controldata/nessnes.htm

It's basically just 2 CD4021 chips, which are widely available and cheap.

The only change I made was adding a 1.2k pull-up resistor on Clock and a 3k pull-up resistor on Latch. This is to make it work on my PAL SNES (with them it will work on all SNESes, but without them it won't work on (some) PAL SNESes).

This page has useful information on the connector pin-out and controller protocol.

http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_SNES.html

I used a 5-pin XLR connector to make the cable removable. You can get cheaper ones, but I decided to not skimp on this and got Rean branded ones (Rean is/was a sub-brand of Neutrik).

These XLR connectors are pretty nice - quick to connect/disconnect with a clicky locking tab, and sturdy. Maybe a good alternative to GX aviation style connectors with their screw lock?

Parts
SNES cable 1 £1.68
Board 1 £2.17
CD4021BE chips 2 £1.44 (for 10)
8-pin chip mount strip 4 £0.90 (for 10)
10k resistors 16 £0.80 (for 100)
1.2k resistors 1 £0.72 (for 100)
3k resistors 1 £0.72 (for 100)
16-pin screw terminals 2 £3.79 (for 5)
Standoffs 4 £0.79 (for 25)
5-pin XLR passthough connectors £7.78

I hope this is useful to someone ^_^

u/-peterstock- — 7 days ago

I made a stick with an unusual button layout, because I find my thumb is stronger and more dextrous than my 3rd or 4th fingers.

I also put a lot more space between the lever and buttons than most sticks have. This is more comfortable for me, and it feels like my left hand matches the lever axis better than having the lever and buttons closer.

I chose Industrias Lorenzo buttons because I like clicky buttons. Convex ones because they're much nicer on the fingers than concave. I removed the springs to make them lighter - for force details, see https://www.reddit.com/r/fightsticks/comments/1stw2hq/button_forcedisplacement_curves/

The front panel is angled, because the long buttons need quite a lot of space. Angling the panel allows a shorter front edge.

The base is held on by magnetic catches, so I can easily open it to change the restrictor gate between 8-way and 4-way. So I can play Donkey Kong ^_^

Parts
Sanwa JLX2-TP-8YT lever £26.50
Seimitsu-LB-30 ball top €2.50
M4 x 16mm bolts £1.08
M4 nuts £0.85
9 Industrias Lorenzo PSL-L/CV convex buttons with Chery D44X microswitches £28.46
GP2040-CE Advanced Breakout Board Passthrough Edition £21.50
PCB standoffs €1
M3 x 10mm screws £1.25
5-pin joystick cable €2
Red wire 3m £1.34
Black wire 3m £1.38
4.8mm quick disconnect terminals £1.79
Neutrik NAUSB-w USB pass through connector €8.90
USB A to B cable 0.5m £1.16
USB A to B cable 3m £2.82
M4 x 14mm screws £1.08
M4 x 20mm screws £1.32
M4 x 30mm screws £1.68
Magnetic catches £2.08
9mm plywood for top panel
6mm plywood for base
18mm x 70mm wood for sides

Total cost: about £110

Tools
Hand saw
Drill
24mm hole saw (for joystick hole and Neutrik connector)
28.5mm hole saw (for buttons)
Wire terminal crimper/cutter/stripper

Shops I used

https://www.arcadepartsuk.com/

Best UK source for arcade parts. Highly recommended.

https://jammastar.com/

Based in France. Wide range of components.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/arcadeexpress

Based in Spain. Most extensive range of Industrias Lorenzo products.

CAD file

I don't seem to be able to upload it on this post, so here's a link to the DXF CAD file I used for the layout.

http://www.peterstock.co.uk/miscellaneous/joystick/Joystick.DXF

Feel free to use or modify it for whatever you want to do. The button spacing is 35.2mm.

u/-peterstock- — 23 days ago

I've got a section of 250mm OD PE gas pipe. Does anyone want it to make large capacity barrels?

UK only.

250mm outside diameter

220mm inside diameter

15mm wall thickness

586mm length

u/-peterstock- — 24 days ago