u/100_gb — reddlx

Image 1 — Working on a DGX Spark cluster trays to fit 2x spark into 3U 10inch server rack including bricks and an extension

Image 2 — Working on a DGX Spark cluster trays to fit 2x spark into 3U 10inch server rack including bricks and an extension

Image 3 — Working on a DGX Spark cluster trays to fit 2x spark into 3U 10inch server rack including bricks and an extension

▲ 23 r/DGX_Spark+1 crossposts

Working on a DGX Spark cluster trays to fit 2x spark into 3U 10inch server rack including bricks and an extension

Folks
I am working on the 2 trays for 2xDgxSpark. The goal is to fit em all in 3U 10inch server rack (including bricks and an extension at the rear). They are conceptually ready, will give it a 3D-print soon and post update soon with the links to STL files.

Meanwhile, please take a look and let me know if you guys have any more ideas here. I put the bricks on the bottom tray vertically with pockets on the top one. The bottom tray takes 5 holes and top one takes 4 holes (9 holes comprise the 3U size).

u/100_gb — 10 days ago

▲ 12 r/MacStudio

M3 Ultra now vs M5 Ultra after a few months

I am confused here folks. Until m5 ultra launch, things were a little simpler because there were fewer options but the prices were higher.

With the ebay prices of M3 Ultra 80C being decent right now in the USA (thanks to Apple), I am wondering if its good for me to go for M5 ultra. On paper the speed looks amazing but as many threads pointed out earlier that it might just be 20-30% increase afterall. Any good decision matrix to follow here?

Purely in terms of price even if I buy 64C M5 ultra 256, I will be paying almost a grand more than the 80C M3 ultra counterpart. But then there is this 'want' of being on the cutting edge (assuming it actually provides a faster experience). I just want to know how others are making the call here?

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u/100_gb — 1 month ago

▲ 31 r/rccars

Help me figure out soldering

I am novice at soldering.But I have never in the past have much trouble soldering basic pcb stuff but this godam motor has given me a tough time. Somehow managed to solder all 3, only for them to come off.

The other 2 look pretty good (I think) and this one came off again.

At this point I'd really want to know if I am doing something fundamentally wrong. Or if someone has like a very good video tutorial to help me with soldering this kind of motor pin.

Additionally I have questions on how to safeguard this. Like the worst thing I imagine is for solder to come off and wires to touch and my truggy becoming a toast. Is there a way to prevent that?

u/100_gb — 3 months ago

▲ 307 r/minilab

My first server rack ever

Over the past few years/month, I kept accumulating mini PCs and Apple boxes until one day I looked at the pile and thought… yeah, this probably needs a rack. Then 3D printed this newly discovered rack called KWS 2.0.

Here are the quick specs:

Every device sits on its own custom-designed tray, modeled to that specific machine - Mac Studio, Mac Mini M4, Dell OptiPlex, Minisforum. Basically each tray has a device-specific enclosure (Like a cradle) that grips the device so it stays firmly in place - see the last pic in the series.
The tray bases are open mesh / perforated, which does double duty: you can zip-tie cables, chargers, and adapters directly to the base for clean cable management underneath each device, and the open pattern keeps airflow going so nothing cooks.

I also recessed each device slightly behind the front face instead of letting them stick out flush for a cleaner look, the front stays a nice even plane, and it gives a little protection to the ports and front edges (ignore the temporary antenna).

Pretty happy with how it turned out for a first build. Roast it / suggestions welcome 🙏

u/100_gb — 3 months ago

▲ 2 r/rccars

Need help to get the right motor + battery combination

I 3d printed duke doks 1/10 cramer truggy. I used this sensoreless motor which comes with ESC.

The battery used was 2s lipo 2200 mah 7.4v 50c

What I am seeing is that the motor sags every time I push the throttle. It works fine when truggy is lifted up but when on the ground, this happens. Basically a weird click click sound until it comes in smooth motion. The other problem is that the ESC just gives up very easily. Like after a small round (2-3 minutes), esc just won't take any throttle input. IF I come to a stop, going reverse sometimes just doesn't work until I wait 1-2 seconds.

I thought the battery was the issue so I tried a 5400mah lipo 2s but the same thing happened. And now I am contemplating if I should just move to a sensored 13.5T motor or move to a 2600kv motor - if this really is related to motor.

Any ideas would be highly appreciated here. PS. Totally new to this hobby. This is my first RC.

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u/100_gb — 4 months ago

▲ 2 r/rccars

3D Printed 1/10 Cramer Truggy (Duke Doks) stuttering/tripping on 2S 3000mAh Li-ion. Switch to sensored or brushed?

I am working on my very first RC car build—a 1/10 scale, fully 3D-printed Cramer Truggy 4x4 by Duke Doks—and I've run into a major hurdle getting the electronics to play nice with my battery pack.

My Setup:

Chassis: 1/10 Duke Doks Cramer Truggy 4x4 (Printed in PETG/TPU, quite heavy with substantial mechanical drivetrain resistance)

Battery: 2S 7.4V 3000mAh Li-ion Pack (Deans / T-Plug)

Motor/ESC: 3600KV Brushless Motor + ESC combo (budget sensorless setup from Amazon)

Electronics: 4-channel receiver.

The Troubleshooting & Proof:

To isolate the issue, I plugged in a standard LiPo battery. The ESC calibrated perfectly right from the get-go, and the motor/tires spun up and worked like a charm with zero issues.

The Problem with Li-ion:

When I switch back to the 2S 3000mAh Li-ion pack, the steering servo and gyro work beautifully, but the motor refuses to cooperate. When I apply throttle from a dead stop, the motor just crackles, stutters violently (cogging), and then the ESC immediately trips out and goes into a flashing/beeping low-voltage error lockout.

This is what AI says:

Because the Cramer Truggy is a heavy, 4x4 3D-printed rig, the 3600KV sensorless motor has to break through a lot of initial mechanical resistance. To do this, it demands a massive instantaneous current spike from a standstill. The 3000mAh Li-ion cells simply can't dump amps that fast without a massive voltage sag, causing the ESC to panic and lock down right at startup.

My Question:

I am a complete novice at this and don't want to get into advanced ESC programming or parameter tweaking. I really want to keep utilizing the safety advantage of the Li-ion pack for this project, so I want a simple hardware solution. What are my best motor options to handle this heavy 3D-printed drivetrain out of the box?

Should I go Sensored Brushless? If I switch to a sensored motor and ESC combo, will the precise rotor-position data allow it to start up smoothly enough from a dead stop to circumvent that massive startup amp spike?

Should I go Brushed? Would dropping down to a high-torque 540/550 brushed motor (like a 21T) and brushed ESC be a safer bet for a Li-ion pack since they handle voltage sag mechanically and won't force an ESC safety shutdown?

Other options on the table - other than using Lipo battery?

Would love to hear your experiences or specific product recommendations for a heavy 1/10 printed truggy. Thanks in advance for helping out a beginner!

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u/100_gb — 4 months ago