u/Alarmed-Paint-791

(yes, the nozzle blockers are upside down in the LED photo. If yours look like mine, turn them around. :) )

Just finished converting my CORE One+ to the Gen 2 INDX 8-tool setup!

I ended up using the acrylic front plate mod together with the chamber light mod, which uses a modified nozzle seal holder to put the chamber light back almost exactly where it used to be. No muss, no fuss.

The acrylic front mod was originally made for the Founder Edition INDX, but mine is the Prusa Edition. The only compatibility issue I ran into was the spacing of the nozzle seal holder holes. The Prusa Edition has them slightly farther apart.

Easy fix: lay the original metal front plate over the acrylic one, mark the correct hole positions, and drill them out. Everything else fit normally.

... Of course I finished the build and pre-flight checks about an hour before midnight, so now I have to get through an entire day at work before I can go home and actually print something. :P

Full list of mods that I applied during the upgrade (Printables collection here):

- Pin mod / modified motor mounts / toothed idlers / belt-tensioner-pulley heat set insert:
https://www.printables.com/model/1404955-core-one-pins-mod-gen-1-gen-2

- Acrylic front plate
https://www.printables.com/model/1824462-core-one-indx-acrylic-front-plate

- Chamber light mod
https://www.printables.com/model/1795637-chamber-light-mount-indx-core-one

- Filament sensor Bowden adapter
https://www.printables.com/model/1774352-indx-filament-sensor-bowden-adapter-ecas04-pc4-m10

- Rear-mounted filament sensor
https://www.printables.com/model/1777439-core-one-indx-holder-for-2-filament-sensor-tops-si

- Top-cover grommets
https://www.printables.com/model/1803258-indx-top-cover-grommet-split

I've been working on some displays for my loose cartridge collection, and this was the first one I made.

The problem I had with most simple NES racks was access: once the cartridges are packed together, you either need enough space above them to pull them straight out or you end up digging around for the one you want.

So I made this one with a tip-out mechanism instead. Push the top of a cartridge fand it pivots forwards far enough to grab easily, while still keeping the collection packed fairly tightly on the shelf.

It prints without supports, and the front plate is separate so the raised logo can be printed in another color with a simple filament change. There is also a blank plate for you adorn with whatever text or graphic you'd like!

The files are free on Printables if anyone wants to make one:

https://www.printables.com/model/1824123-nes-cartridge-display-stand-tip-out-access

This one also ended up starting a bit of a series - I've since finished the SNES / Super Famicom version, and I'm working on N64 and Game Boy next. :)

I've been working on a way to display my games where you can actually see more than just the first label in the row.

I ended up with this stepped/"stadium" arrangement. Each cartridge sits a little higher than the one in front, so they're all visible but still easy to pull out and play. With six slots its ~30 centimeters tall, so fits in most book cases. (unless you load it up with a super gameboy hahaha!)

I originally designed it around my PAL SNES and Japanese Super Famicom carts, but I've now made versions for all three cartridge shapes - PAL/EU SNES, North American SNES and Super Famicom - in 4, 5 and 6-cart sizes.

The files are free on Printables if anyone wants to make one:

https://www.printables.com/model/1840241-snes-super-famicom-cartridge-display-stand-all-reg

I could actually use a little help from someone with original US carts: I don't own any myself, so although the US version was modeled to the cartridge dimensions, I haven't been able to physically verify the fit. I included a tiny test coupon in the files rather than asking someone to gamble ~200 g of filament on a full stand. If somebody prints it, I'd love a couple of photos and a note on whether the fit is loose/snug/tight.

N64 and Game Boy versions are next. :)

I made versions for all three cartridge styles: PAL/EU SNES, North American SNES, and Japanese Super Famicom. There are also two body styles – a simple solid-sided version and a hex-cutout version that uses about 17% less filament.

It’s designed to print without supports. The front plate prints separately and flat, so you can do the logo in another color with a simple filament change. I provide three different sizes; 4, 5 and 6 slots. The largest one still fit comfortably on a 250mm build plate, like the Core One.

One caveat: I don’t own any original North American SNES cartridges, so that version is based on measurements but hasn’t been physically verified yet. I’ve included a tiny test slot so nobody has to burn 200g of filament finding out whether I got the fit wrong. If anyone with US carts wants to test it, I’d very much appreciate the feedback!

It’s up on Printables here:

https://www.printables.com/model/1840241-snes-super-famicom-cartridge-display-stand-all-reg

It looks like a pretty simple model, but I'm quite proud of how much iteration went into making it pleasant to 3D print. There are lots of little details that probably aren't obvious at first glance: rounded corners to avoid ugly bulging if your pressure advance isn't perfect, a seam trap at the back so the slicer doesn't ruin anyone's day, internal geometry separated from the perimeter to avoid hull-line artifacts, and angles designed to print cleanly without supports.

The decorative front is a separate piece that prints flat, so it's easy to do the logo in another color without a multi-material printer. I've included blank faceplates too, so you can add your own text/vector graphics.

It's up on Printables here if anyone wants one:

https://www.printables.com/model/1824123-nes-cartridge-display-stand-tip-out-access

I've included the OpenSCAD source as well, and the model is fully parameterized. You can change things like cartridge count, spacing and dimensions, and the faceplate system is set up so you can make your own variants without having to remodel the whole thing.

Feedback very welcome and, of course, I'd love to see some makes with custom front plates. :)

I've just seen Rich Nelson's awesome six-toolhead Voron 2.4, and promptly fell down the Voron rabbit hole.

https://youtu.be/wOfLphvfhsM?is=SZjjSBO4tvhRJR0b

I already have a CORE One+ and I'm waiting for the 8-head INDX upgrade. But I've also been feeling the need for a second printer - especially something with more build volume, potentially higher volumetric flow (the Nextruder struggles to really make use of a 0.6 or 0.8 mm nozzle), and perhaps a simpler path to good TPU printing. And, of course, I really like the open-ended "anything is possible" nature of the Voron ecosystem.

I'm currently leaning towards a Trident 350. I like the conventional CoreXY layout, and it seems like the slightly simpler and more sensible machine for what I want.

But here's my main question: what can a well-specced Trident give me today, beyond more build volume and potentially more speed/flow?

And looking at it from the other direction, what conveniences has the CORE One spoiled me with that I might miss on a Trident? I'm thinking of things like robust automatic bed probing/Z-height adjustment, automatic chamber temperature management, filament sensing, and potentially soon automatic pressure advance calibration.

Basically, I'm trying to understand what the experience of going from a modern Prusa to a Voron is actually like - not just in terms of raw hardware capability, but day-to-day usability.

I'd also be very interested in advice on the current Trident toolchanger options, and what people consider the "best" toolheads/hotends these days. I'm not particularly attached to any one ecosystem - I'd mainly want good flow, support for different nozzle sizes and hardened nozzles, and reliable TPU printing.

Såg att det finns eftermarknadslådor att installera i motorutrymmet på ID.4. Bilden är tagen från Amazon.

Är det någon här som testat en liknande lösning?

I bought a kit for the metric Cynthia from AK BlasterMod.

Filaments are:
– Azurefilm PLA Mint Green Pastel
– Sunlu PLA Galaxy Green
– Sunlu PLA Sunny Orange

The blaster itself is – for such a finicky build – unreasonably consistent!

I run an 11kg spring, and my first 20 darts (Worker Bamboo 1.2g) across the chronometer averaged 191 fps with a coefficient of variation of only 1.9%!

That’s just *ridiculously* good.

I discovered Hing-Yip’s “Wolver 999 Classic” a couple of months back. I ordered both hardware kits (“Classic” and “FX”) from his Hong Kong store.

The FX is fixed stock which I prefer, so that’s what I built. The build was not nearly as elegant as the Lynx – tons of custom hardware everywhere – but the instructions are great, it comes together without issue and the extra hardware does mean we get a lot of nice sense-pleasures, like the ball detent on cocking back or the magnetic latch on the safety switch. So cool! 

A few annoyances I’ve noted:

the FX kit does not include a barrel! The FX variant is always shown with longer barrel and BCAR. The instructions (available only after purchase) says to build it with 300mm barrel. However, the FX hardware kit does not include a barrel. We only get the 200mm Classic barrel, meaning the BCAR can’t be mounted.

the barrel is not affixed to the blaster beyond the friction of the o-rings, which are far too loose for my liking. If I pick the blaster up by the barrel it pulls straight out.

neither the muzzle / collet or BCAR clamps on to the barrel either. The BCAR slides freely up and down, and the collet does little to secure the barrel from leaving the blaster body. They both depend on crushing an o-ring against the barrel but, at least for me, they do not work as intended.

the spring I was sent has wrong dimensions. The designer has offered to send a replacement so it’s all good, but it means I haven’t been able to shoot the blaster properly yet.

It does look fucking cool though. :)

Filaments used:

Color A: AzureFilm PLA Navy Blue

Color B: AzureFilm PLA Matte HS Mint

Color C: Sunlu PLA Matte Sunny Orange

I finished my Catfish build, and I am seriously impressed.

My setup is with o-rings, 3 wraps of string, barely tightened at all, and with the BCAR barrel. With Worker Bamboo 1.2 g darts, I am getting a consistent 150 fps. The trigger feel is great, and the blaster shoots straight. I adore this thing. :D

What really gets me is how cool it is that Leedle has managed to recreate something so Lynx-like with no hardware. The Catfish is a frankly astonishing design. I was already seriously impressed with the Gisela 2, but this feels like another level up. There are so many clever, practical, printable design choices throughout the build. The fully printable integrated bcar? The zip-reduction barrel liners? the printable (string-based) rear seal? SO clever.

I also really appreciate the attention Leedle put into the "packaging" of the release. The bucket-fill-friendly render makes it easy to play with color schemes before committing to a print. The pins and bars are labeled, which makes assembly much easier. The bars are clearly asymmetric, so they cannot be installed the wrong way around. Even the file organization is thoughtful: parts are pre-oriented, grouped by color and strength requirement, and the optional parts are mostly kept separate.

The only thing I found myself wishing for was a table showing which parts can be skipped when printing the o-ring build. That would make it a little easier to navigate the options.

But overall: huge congrats to Leedle on this release. The Catfish is an incredibly impressive printable blaster!