r/prusa3d

yet another INDX FE post, but I think founders should share their experiences and thoughts so that the product can be further improved. I'm also indebted to all the useful comments in the manual, pointing out useful differences and shortcuts.

I'm sure some of the annoyances will get sorted out soon.

It took me about 12h to do the upgrade while skipping the steps for 8 spoolholders (because I have other plans). Not the fastest because it's 8TH plus I had some trouble along the weekends.

At this stage, I've only completed the upgrade, performed calibrations and done one test print with 2 tools/colours. A panda keychain with 162 tool changes over 1h print.

🟡 Tapping Threads

I don't recall having to tap that many screws building the CORE One - we had more M3nN nuts to help out with the build. In the INDX kit, there are MANY holes to tap, and they are not easy to work with, especially those holes that are printed in the same face as the build plate. Some of the screws heat up and would melt the plastic slightly which increases the tapping resistance.

🟡 Torx countersunk screws

The M3x12cT is unfortunately a pain the work with. The screws get stripped off very easily, especially when you need to tap 16 screws on the front profile (and when it's hard to tap, missing it means scratching the front profile). The torx screw gets stripped very easily, and I had a number of screws that got stuck, stripped and had to be extracted.

I will definitely replace ALL the 16x M3x12cT screws on the tool holders, especially learning that you'd need to turn them during calibration.

It helps to have a ratcheting screwdriver to reduce chance of stripping the screw head.

🟡 Flush cutter a MUST have

There is a need to cut a number of cable ties, so having a flush cutter is not a good to have, but rather a must have. I cannot imagine doing without one.

🟡 Reusing screws

Along the way, some steps require you to reuse screws taken out of the Nextruder. So take note and keep your screws well.

🟡 Calibrate the PTFE tube lengths on both side together

If you go step by step through the manual, it'd ask you to prepare two 300mm filament to measure and adjust the length of the PTFE tube. You'd have to cut the filament to shorter lengths to measure the 4 tubes. Instead of preparing two pieces of filament, it's possible to just use one, measure tubes 1 and 8, cut, measure 2 and 7, cut, measure 3 and 6, cut, measure 4 and 5.

🟡 Smoke from nozzle on first use

This is more of an observation than a concern. I wanted to write this down so that others wouldn't get a shock like I did. On the first time you head up your nozzle, the manufacturing oils on the nozzle will burn and smoke up. It produces some smoke and will be gone after.

🟡 Remove mods before upgrade

The upgrade assumes that you're on stock CORE One/+. It helped to remove mods especially at the top of the printer before starting the upgrade.

🟡 The end of the manual

It becomes clear that towards the end of the manual the steps became less granular and there's fewer zoomed in pictures of the parts.

🟡 Custom filament profiles

It's nice that when the factory reset happened, the filament profiles were preserved into the INDX version. However, I kind of lost the profiles on my PrusaSlicer (because they were filtered out for the Nextruder). I needed to make some changes on PrusaSlicer before I could get the prints going.

🟡 Area above LED light becomes dark

It became difficult to see the print for the first few layers without opening the lid. I might consider adding LED strips to increase visibility.

🟡 Conclusions

Overall, it's a piece of art and marvel in engineering. I was about to start printing well right after calibrations are done. The purge is indeed minimal, and there's no need for wipe tower - as promised. It was amazing to see the heat up go from 25°C to 290°C in order of 5s (coming from the Nextruder).

It was an enjoyable upgrade despite some challenges along the way, but I'd recommend buying the CORE One+ straight with the INDX if you plan to use multi material from the statt - the upgrade kit requires you to undo some steps from the original CORE One kit.

Feel free to AMA and I'll be happy to answer.

I’m having issues with globs and stringing. The first object, the dog on the front left, is awful and can’t be saved. The rest aren’t too bad,

Filament is from Polymaker and Elegoo. Both spent time in a dryer before printing.

I dropped temps and nothing really has changed. I used the generic PLA profile then lowered the temps.

I’ve re-calibrated the wipers multiple times

The next thing I’m doing to throwing in a wipe/prime tower. I have some Prusament on order, I’m interested to see if the issues continue with it.

Sooooo my INDX is complete and now I am printing again. So what do I think?

Well a lot. Now I should preface this with this is my first Multi-Material printer set up ever. I only have run single extruder Prusa machines since I got into 3D Printing back when the MK2 was the big dog. I have built an Mk2, a Mk3 and a Core One from the kits (not upgrade except for the relatively minor mid-system updates like Plus and S upgrades)

So the build....took longer then I had expected. If you read my other post things we going well. Who knew the last bit was going to be....rather difficult. The spoolholders gave me a lot of grief. More then I had expected. I cursed. A lot. I spent in total like....10 hours on the build I think? And like 3 hours on the Pre Flight stuff. The calibration of the belts were the hardest. I am convinced my belt must just be longer then its supposed to be from the factory because on my Core One build I had to crank the belts really tight too to get it to where it needed to be. This I followed the guide ran into issues with the belt calibration and spent like one hour alone trying to crank it to where I think it needed to be. That was my only real struggle there. I did run into an error with the tools but the discord folks helped me out with that in short order. It involved tightening and loosening each side of the belt tensions and watching the numbers and adjusting accordingly. But we got there in the end.

Nozzle Calibration needs work. Trying to look through a tiny window and adjust things and parse what exactly they want me to do was....yeah I am not sure its even calibrated right I am just hoping it is.

So Pros:

• I love how I can have different materials queued up and then use those to print things without having to pull off a spool and feed a new one. Small quality of life upgrade but one none the less.
• Multicolor is fun! I print a lot of things because they look cool. There is a lot of models I think will work really good with multicolor and I look forward to it.
• I am looking forward to mixing PETG with PLA for support purposes. It is my biggest pet peeve and i can't wait to put this to the test soon.
• Heating of the nozzle is stupid fast. Like... STUPID fast. Its a wonder to see it in action.
• When this is all polished and cleaned up and iterated I bet it will be one of the gold standards if not gold standards in multi-material printing....which brings us to the....

Cons

• First off the hardware is....good like the bondtech stuff feels very solid. Very well designed. This is the extruder assembly and the Tools. But the rest of it? Feels at times like it needs some more time to cook I think. Its not bad per-say but....I feel like will be replaced come the next iteration refinement.
• Loss of the print area-We knew it was coming I was hoping it was going to be less then it was planned in the end either through some improvement in design or slimming of parts but...yeah it still hurts (the 15mm from the front which I think is still less then the mentioned 20mm early on) but this just leads to....just how much space is feeling wasted in the Core One overall all for the sake of the Mk3, Mk4 heatbed, Part commonality is and can be a good thing but it really makes it feel like the Core One L is going to be the primary flagship in the end especially with the how much space we lost in the front and I am looking at the large space in the back of the bed going like "We could move the bed back a few MM like in the L?" But that would require like a redesigned heat bed or way to route wires. I am not sure but I feel like it can be done via an electrical adapter and better design work on the connector part and yes it would likely mean a new Z Gantry. Maybe something as an upgrade or iteration later.
• It feels....very incomplete. The printer profiles and filament profiles are very very barebones. I am sure these will come sooner then later now that its released but still. You can tell this is an early generation and its lacking the polish we have gotten from the Mk4 to Core One to the Core One Plus. Fortunately its all software and can be fixed and will be fixed but if you use this for production? I wouldn't upgrade yet. It's going to be tinker heavy. I have had thermal runaway errors from blobbing during filament loading due to the Nozzle Cleaning lacking...something, to random tools just crashing the entire printer with a preheat error (once) and random layer shifts even on single filament prints (and I am using a samsung USB drive not the prusa one)
• The side indents make even less sense now. I was mixed opinion of them when I saw the Core One but I chalked it up to the need to use the Mk52 heatbed. But man its feel like...just wasted space now. Especially with the spool holders there. I am sure some people will find use and I know Prusa sounds like they have some ideas for the one but...the one on the left? Especially given on the 4T model is where 1-4 spoolholders reside feels like a weird design decision. While it makes sense most people read left ot right and so you want to number 1-8 from right to the left but if you have the 4T edition the whole right side is going to be useless anyways and most mods for that are just for the spool holder that was there. I am sure we will see some other things but if they just put all the spools there for 1-4...then at least the left side coul still be used as storage for the insane number of mods people have made for it.
• The LED Bar and Visibility is just bad. We need a new LED bar preferably higher since you will need the camera to see whatever is going on. And a better angle to boot. Instead of slapping the bar on the bottom on the front panel where its useless the first few layers it should have been relocated. We are running wires again anyways this was a weird time to not do it.

So my TL;DR? Plan on this taking longer then expect, expect a lot of weird glitches and issues sometimes with reasons and mostly none, and its very much still a WIP IMO but a fun one I am looking to enjoy.

My Wishlist-New nozzle cleaner solution (though I am happy we have a wipe at all it does struggle on the V shaped one, new LED bare placement or just a new light altogether, and fixing the heatbed placemen.

You may have seen INDX-related social media posts lately that showed a 3D printed world map and political world map. I designed these models a while ago and until now never uploaded them because I don't have a multicolor printer (yet), so I could'n test wether they work.
Luckily, Tommy from Prusa offered to do test prints on these models, so while I still can't print them myself, I am now confident enough to upload them. The photos of the printed models are provided by Tommy.
So if you already got your INDX upgrade (Congrats, Happy for you, Nice), you can find both the political world map and the satellite world map on Printables.

Disclaimer: You'll be a beta tester of these models as I will not be able to print and test them myself until INDX batch 2 is available and ships.

After finally getting the full motion system assembled, things looked promising … until real-world travel tests immediately revealed multiple unexpected collisions. What followed in the past 2 weeks was a deep dive into small but compounding geometry differences, iterative CAD fixes and eventually the first successful extrusion on the machine.

• Full write-up on Printables: Motion System Adventures & First Extrusion
• New files up until the Nextruder Assembly on Printables: Prusa CORE One Mini (Community Edition)

TL;DR

• Real-world assembly revealed a few unexpected fit and clearance issues
• Multiple small geometry differences stacked up into noticeable misalignment
• Required redesign of a few key printed parts, including the fan duct
• Motion system is now working as intended
• First extrusion achieved and basic testing completed
• Next step: continued refinement and assembly

---

For the main project page, full updates and FAQ head over to Printables and read CORE One Mini - The Rocky Road to a Prototype

If you want to help the project: If you intend to buy a Prusa machine, you can use the referral code "@suit" at checkout in the Prusa online shop. This will give you some Prusameter points + a free Spool of Filament and for me some Prusameter aswell (which I can use for some free filament). Or you can just download, like and make some of my models here on Printables or even consider to become a member in my Printables club.

I've also set up a GoFundMe campaign to tackle the costs. Thanks to everybody who has donated to the project already - that means a lot and helps me cover the expenses and adds possibilties for further improvements.

Hello, folks.

I'm using the Spool Holder & Buffer for Core One MMU3 Community Version by Sam:

https://www.printables.com/model/1378191-spool-holder-buffer-for-core-one-mmu3-community-ve

Before this, I tried a couple of other buffer designs, and they all had the same issue.

Whenever the printer unloads filament from the nozzle, the filament gets kinked and bent inside the buffer. Then, during the next load, it gets stuck and can't enter the PTFE tube because of the kink. Quite often, when I try to straighten the kink, the filament snaps.

Has anyone else experienced this issue or found a solution? Edit: The printer I use is regular core one if it matters.

Build complete all that’s left is the Prusa dry boxes later

A few tips :

-First get yourself a good set of T wrench’s not the ones Prusa supplies , you will shear off the heads of the screws they supplied , screws are wildly soft

-take the spool holder off first before anything then move the bed to top set of screws not the bottom set like mentioned in manual . It’s super tight in there while trying to maneuver cables and use wrench’s

-get a couple magnetic flashlights to illuminate areas to see in the tight dark areas of the case

-get a hardware magnet wand , you will most likely drop screws to the back of the case

-installing the spool holders with their included tool is extremely aggravating. Prepare yourself to have some patience. You’re working extremely tight little areas and trying to align everything perfectly. To work the right way your going to have to manually move the bed up and out of the away

-while installing the front plate docks and seal holders to, I found it easiest to preinstall the front plate with a couple of screws to just hold it upright and put it together that way, as opposed to leaving it off the machine trying to screw everything together

-make sure to save all the removed parts and screws . Stay organized there’s alot of sections where they tell you to re-use previously removed hardware

This I’m not overly impressed with how these are setup . The boxes them selves are very cumbersome with trying to get filament in and out of them . After they’re mounted to the machine they need to be removed to get them open to put the new filament roll in.

After they’re installed the gauges on the units with the temperature and humidity can’t even be read because they’re on the inner side right next to the case you can’t even see them. I think I’m only gonna leave four on one side of the case and leave the other side open good thought process. I don’t think it was executed as efficiently as it could’ve been.

I am sharing this because I am truly frustrated by the recent support experience I had with Bondtech regarding my INDX Founders Edition reservation for the Prusa CORE One. I am a customer who was patient with delays, but the way I was treated when I requested a refund was unprofessional and, frankly, dismissive.

The Context:

I decided to request a refund because the project timeline has stretched significantly longer than originally communicated. Given the history of recurring delays and the issues encountered throughout this process, I have lost confidence in the final product. As a consumer, I did not want to proceed as a "guinea pig" for a brand new product launch that has already demonstrated such instability.

The Issue:

While Bondtech did refund the main order amount via Stripe, they are refusing to refund the "Founders place" deposit. This directly contradicts their own terms, which state that the deposit is fully refundable on request up until two weeks before the shipping date.

The Communication:

What shocked me the most was the response from the founder, Martin Bondéus. Instead of handling a standard refund request, the dialogue became personal and confrontational.

When I first asked to cancel, the founder’s immediate response was to question my integrity for cancelling:"Ok, i think it is quite unfair to cancel when we have started shipping, I can assure you that we have been working our asses off during the whole time., and if you did not want to test new products why did you sign up in the first place?"

When I pointed out that the deposit should be refundable **per their own terms (**https://web.archive.org/web/20251129142639/https://www.bondtech.se/indx-by-bondtech/pre-order/), the response was a flat refusal, ignoring the policy entirely:"We are now closer than two weeks from shipping it is not an option." (Note: This "two-week" deadline is a claim based solely on the founder's statement. Given the history of delays and the lack of transparent communication throughout this project, I remain skeptical about the validity of this shipping timeline.)

I am sharing this because I believe companies should be held accountable for the policies they publish, especially when a founder chooses to make a simple refund request personal. Has anyone else encountered this type of pushback when dealing with Bondtech support?

(Screenshots of the very rude exchanges available on request)

Update: Following this post, Bondtech reached out and ultimately agreed to refund me in full. I'm pleased with this outcome, even though some of you believed I wasn't entitled to a full refund. The purpose of my post was never just about the money. It was to highlight the company's blatant lack of respect in our interactions and my disappointment with its nonexistent customer service. This situation could have been easily avoided if Bondtech had been upfront about forfeiting my deposit upon cancellation, or had simply communicated with professionalism and respect.

I don’t plan on using the filament mounts on the side, but instead feed directly from the Creality Space Pi filament dryer.

Has anyone built a kit with the necessary components for this type of setup? I assume some guides or something?

Hey everyone!

So the goal of the post is to show some prints that I have done, some issues that I have run into and also to share my personal experience and opinion of the INDX, so I guess kinda a review that is not in any way an actual review.

Full disclaimer from the start: I'm Prusa staff and I have been testing the INDX system for a decent time now. I work closely with the developers and most of our teams, but most of the printing I have done is just me doing my thing. The unit that I have been using has gone through several revisions including toolhead reassemblies, nozzle changes and other the addition and changes of numerous other parts of the printer. I have not been in the beta testing since the beginning myself (only joined around 1/2 way through), though I have been following along with the process of colleagues. I have also performed several factory resets and partial printer rebuilds in this time. Most of my photos were captured specifically for internal bug reporting in unoptimized profiles, so they intentionally highlight the worst-case scenarios. Keep this context in mind when looking at the flaws. This is a look at the gritty testing phase, not the final polished experience!

Assembly: This part I wont go into too much detail, as I have had various partial re-assemblies and also really early stages of guides that were far from finished. I think the recent experiences of other community members would give a better representation as their experience is more real than mine. Overall it is a bit of a lengthy build and experience with the printer definitely plays a large factor in terms of speed of assembly, so for me it was relatively easy, but some steps were still tedious (my damn X belt slipped out 3 times when tensioning it!). Based on recent feedback, I guess build time is around 5-9 hours depending on skill (with some major outliers both ways).

Calibration: This is something that had drastically improved over time and early firmware versions had way more step-by-step phases and a bit more manual. I've been chatting with our devs about current feedback and experience and we are working on trying to simplify it even further, though I think other than the nozzle wiper, it's in a good space.

First prints: It just worked. I basically dived right into color printing from the start. Sure, there were some smaller quality issues, but these were primarily profile problems as far as I could tell and the toolchanges were flawless.

Fun first print and still on my desk. Lots of memes about this on Discord especially

I also had one of my first (and few) issues here already, a frozen display during printing. The print finished without issue, so I reported it but didn't think too much of it. I ran into this problem several times, but in the last month or so, haven't seen it at all until we started shipping. There was one other person recently with this issue, but he had much worse luck due to a full bucket warning at the time blocking the print. Devs are working on this though and hopefully should be fixed pretty fast.

Some stringing on purple. The filament we have is generally not stored well so most likely due to moisture

Stringing is something I see from time to time, but it's generally from a specific filament. Filament quality and moisture control are particularly important with the INDX right now.

Truest test of INDX power, 8 color flexi dragon

I had a failure on this print, where the toolhead fell off during nozzle wiping. This would have been due to a bad pickup of the toolhead. In this case, I could just remound and attempt it again. I had this happen again in a more complex way on a print right after.

Bit of stringing, but this was specifically on the light brown color and the one blue (mostly on the inside)

While printing this globe from a community member, I had a weird toolhead crash that I came to in the morning that confused me quite a bit. I can't recall the specifics, but it was something like tool 1 being mounted, tool 2 was hanging off the dock, and it was trying to pick up tool 4 😄 I had to get creative here to save the print, and ended up physically swapping the tools around, moving 4 to 1 and purging some extra material, doing a bit of a swap. This was a really isolated and unique case for me, and this was also the last major issue I have run into on the printer. I regret to say I couldn't find this picture as it was quite interesting.

https://preview.redd.it/c3394h7tx5bh1.png?width=1097&format=png&auto=webp&s=d1a878141c6fbf1bf6810de8c335a0ed504c8347

Torture toaster (prepared by a community member, thanks!). Some smaller imperfections, but you can see the stringing on the same brown from the print before. Worked well.

Filament runout testing. Worked even better than I expected except for one small dot that I can't really explain (came off easily)

At this point I also tried to do some TPU mixing by porting some profiles myself, but my results were not good with a couple of the spools (2 out of 4 had the filament tangle). Personally I think the retractions were quite rough and that was resulting in the filament coiling and getting pushed out of the tools sometimes. TPU will require some patience and heavy profile tuning to lock in, but I believe the hardware is fully capable once the settings match the elasticity.

Small defect on one \"fin\" here, but otherwise removing the supports with 0 contact distance was no issue, basically pealed off the bed.

PETG with PLA supports. I got the model from a colleague but personally I think it isn't set up well at all. It printed extremely well other than the one small edge here. I would do some more printing in this line, just didn't have any good inspiration on what to do.

I have otherwise done some PETG printing as well as PC and PCCF with no issue, but for that exact same reason I didn't think to take any pictures as they were single color (PETG I think could use some fine-tuning on the pressure advance).

Fan shroud was printed in PC Jet Black on INDX

At this point I also started skipping the more interesting high end material challenges as I wanted to help out with some prints for our content team, as well as doing some silly projects like adding an edoscope camera to the fan shroud to view the nozzle. I will add the files to Printables once I clean it up as I am very far from an efficient designer, and I would be happy if someone more capable devolped something cooler from that. It's fun to see the tool changes and nozzle cleaning this way!

https://preview.redd.it/gejhqspjd7bh1.png?width=1287&format=png&auto=webp&s=a5d3a102e2fc7a103e75a4ea196343de129667da

-------------------------------------------

So what's my opinion?

I've never been a fan of multi-color printing, even though I have never had any issues with it. My prints have always been functional and to the point. With the INDX however, I would catch myself canceling home office shifts just to go to work to start another silly print, and I have been having an absolute blast with it. I don't think I've enjoyed printing this much since my first days with an MK3. Combining this with interesting tools like ColorMix and and the shading app, there is always a queue of models that I want to print. Heck, I think I might go into the office on Sunday to start something up quick. I did just get a stack of CMYKW filament from polymers... Sorry honey, I'll also have to go in during the public holiday on Monday.

In regards to issues: Other than me directly messing the print up such as doing my own dumb profiles for example, I am probably at around 30 000 tool changes right now since the last problem that I had listed with the globe print, and that was also on older hardware. In total I would say I'm at about 50-70 thousand changes (I wish I tracked it) with just the problems that I had listed here. Maybe I am lucky, but the printer has been great for me.

I need more exposure to multi material printing myself to give proper feedback there, but as long as individual profiles work, I see no reason why the combination would cause a problem.

-------------------------------------------

4T or 8T?

More is always better, but I would personally be fine with just 4 tools right now, but I believe 3d models will evolve alongside the tech and I would want to upgrade to 8 at some point in the near future anyway. You don't need 8, but it's nice to have.

The bad?

Like many others, I'm not the biggest fan of the waste bucket. I've done prints that are over 7000 tool changes and would have to empty it throughout the print. Good news, we already have a BIG solution in the works, and if all goes to plan, it will be DIY. I'll keep you all updated on that.

Filament profiles, temperatures and humidity are currently very sensitive. You want to have dry material to prevent stringing, and there's still a lot to be done with the profiles, but these should be streaming in and I'm also curious to see what the community does in the meantime.

Right now I would HIGHLY encourage the use of Prusament and keeping the spools relatively fresh, but it will get simpler in the coming weeks.
• If you are in the USA, you can get it from Printed Solid with free shipping from 50 USD. I'm 95% sure Jessie filament should also be fine as they are basically manufactured near the same as Prusament now, but I don't have any personal experience on the INDX itself. Please let me know if you do try it!

If you have other materials that are working extremely well for you right now, also please let us know in the comments so that

Bonus picture: Bird

https://preview.redd.it/3ceyojg8b7bh1.png?width=610&format=png&auto=webp&s=1166e7891a54cc8886381b8f7ba11ec7e8a8e5bd

I would also like to give a small shoutout to any of our developers and members from Bondtech readings this. They have been amazingly receptive to feedback and are clearly fully committed to making the product as great as possible. It's been a blast working with you all.

Hi Makers,

https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/hackman3d-orbit-controller

Want to see it in action?

Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/reel/DaLhk9gP-Sw/?igsh=MTNhdXZ2OHo0b3Z3cw%3D%3D

Youtube : https://www.youtube.com/shorts/rWjuSqC4tPc

After four months of work, I'm finally ready to share my Hackman3D Orbit Controller with everyone.

This is by far the biggest project I've ever worked on. I spent countless hours designing, prototyping, printing, assembling, testing, rewriting the firmware, and writing the documentation. My goal was simple: make a DIY 3D navigation controller that is affordable, reliable, and as easy to build as possible.

I've been using this controller as my daily CAD controller for the past two months, and I now feel confident enough to release it.

That said, this is only the beginning.

The assembly guide and documentation will continue to improve based on your feedback. If something isn't clear, if you find a mistake, or if you have ideas to simplify the build, please let me know. I'll do my best to answer every question and update the guides whenever needed.

This project is completely open source, so I also encourage everyone to modify it, improve it, remix it, or adapt it to their own needs. If you make something better, I'd genuinely love to see it.

I hope this project helps more people discover 3D navigation without spending hundreds of dollars.

Have fun building it, and thank you to everyone who supported this project over the last four months. 🚀

started a print without PEI sheet UPD: trying to resolder it now, no success, downloading a scheme of pcb to see where is the copper traces UPD2: i resoldered the traces while listening to California Gurls on repeat, and the bed is heating up perfectly again. I’m going to cover the fix with some Kapton tape, put the PEI sheet back on, and see what kind of 'mountains' MBL will have to deal with. I’ll also check the heat distribution with a thermal camera to make sure it's consistent. I’ll post an update on the mesh results soon!

So update from the other day. I was the one with the damaged box from FedEx. Finaly had time to get the printer up and running. Loaded a new copy of PrusaSlicer with no modifications or setting from my old printer. Loaded a spool of Prusament PLA, ran all the calbrations in the instructions and sent a 200% calicat.

Printing on the default speed profile, which might be the issue but it seems that the the entire printer is jumping around quite a bit. Only one certin types of motions and patterns. My Ender 5 never moved around that much but it could not do the speed that the Core One L is running at. It honestly shocked me at how fast it took off when I started the print. It hard to see the whoe thing jumping around in the video. It's printing fine. Just want to know if this is normal.

I know this is beaten to death, but I'm in the middle of the indx install and my y stepper has always been loud.

I removed both x and y steppers, the x spins in my hand easily and quietly, the y stepper spins with some resistance and almost grinding like sound. This is spinning with fingers.

My question is, are they supposed to be the same or is this normal?

I have opened tickets with prusa chat and sent in videos, and they say the sound while printing is just resonance. But this feels wrong, and while I'm already elbow deep into this tear down, I'm wondering if I rma or just buy a new y stepper.

Can someone please provide some insight on if they are supposed to be the same or different.

Thank you.

https://imgur.com/a/RDbrTOy

Edit: link to sound/video