For anyone who wants to upgrade his core one with gt1.5 pulleys and doesn't care about the heatbed and 1$ wiper can buy one of those sets.
https://west3d.com/products/genuine-gates-profile-1-5gt-toothed-pulleys-and-idlers with the gates belt the E version, but RF one works as well.
Or source alternative from here:
Hello, I was wondering what are the changes to the heatbed in gen2 upgrade are the expansion joints bigger? Different material? what makes them 3x more expensive than the current ones?
Why does Prusa do this every time with all their new stuff.
The site showed i stock delivery time 1-5 days and after payment i get 5-6 weeks on leadtime. Happened with all my core one printers and now with the upgrades as well.
Paying such a ridiculous price for belts and on top of that having to wait months for delivery is just crazy. Edit: I'm talking about the shipping date showing in order immediately after payment.
Hello, my basement floods every time we get a bad storm and I still have no idea where the water's actually getting in. Problem is I never catch it early by the time I go down there it's already up to my knees and everything's underwater, so I can't tell which spot it started from.
I've got 4 places I suspect it's coming in, and what I really want to know is which one goes first. That'd tell me where to actually spend my money fixing things instead of guessing.
Was thinking some kind of DIY setup with an ESP32 and water sensors, but there are a couple things I'm stuck on:
The big one is power. The storms that flood the basement almost always knock the power out too, so anything plugged into the wall is useless it's gotta run on batteries and survive sitting there doing nothing for weeks or months until it's actually needed.
I also don't really care about an alarm going off. I just want a log something that records "sensor 3 tripped at 2:14, then sensor 1 at 2:31" so I can look back afterward and see the order. Since the wifi/router will probably be dead too when this all happens, I'm assuming it needs to store everything locally and I read it back later?
I can solder, 3D print, flash firmware, all that just never built anything that has to sit dormant for months and then work perfectly at the one moment it matters. Figured someone here has probably done something similar.
Anyone tackled this? Mostly worried about the sensors dying from corrosion and the batteries being flat right when I need them? And how to log time.
Hello, my basement floods every time we get a bad storm and I still have no idea where the water's actually getting in. Problem is I never catch it early by the time I go down there it's already up to my knees and everything's underwater, so I can't tell which spot it started from.
I've got 4 places I suspect it's coming in, and what I really want to know is which one goes first. That'd tell me where to actually spend my money fixing things instead of guessing.
Was thinking some kind of DIY setup with an ESP32 and water sensors, but there are a couple things I'm stuck on:
The big one is power. The storms that flood the basement almost always knock the power out too, so anything plugged into the wall is useless it's gotta run on batteries and survive sitting there doing nothing for weeks or months until it's actually needed.
I also don't really care about an alarm going off. I just want a log something that records "sensor 3 tripped at 2:14, then sensor 1 at 2:31" so I can look back afterward and see the order. Since the wifi/router will probably be dead too when this all happens, I'm assuming it needs to store everything locally and I read it back later?
I can solder, 3D print, flash firmware, all that just never built anything that has to sit dormant for months and then work perfectly at the one moment it matters. Figured someone here has probably done something similar.
Anyone tackled this? Mostly worried about the sensors dying from corrosion and the batteries being flat right when I need them? And how to log time.
Someone just posted this screenshot on Discord and, uh… what the fuck?
Bondtech sold the INDX nozzles as “hardened.”
The sales copy literally said carbon fiber, glass fiber, and glow filament with “zero fear of wear.”
I bought several nozzles on that basis. The whole reason I bought the INDX was for abrasive+soluble supports…
Now they’re saying they never managed to manufacture the fully hardened version. The nozzles they sent are nitrocarburised and aren’t intended for prolonged use with abrasives. And now they just casually say they removed “hardened” from the product page after units have already shipped?
What the fuck did they sell me then?
Prusa sold these as hardened too. Were they ever going to tell us?
EDIT: Initial response from Bondtech on discord TL;DR:
"we never said they would be hardened"
shows archived link to founders page
"but they are nitrocarburized"
so not hard like market standard of hardended
"... we are sorry you are disappointed, now move along"
Hello, I have Prusa Core One printer, but I'm getting some upgrades to it 8 toolheads. That leaves me with the original Nextruder free and a prusa mmu3 unit also available. I was wondering If I could actually reuse those and make a voron build with them.
Hello, my indx is about to arrive and I was wondering if I could put my current mmu3 to a voron printer.
Also was wondering If I can use the nextruder on voron.
Hello, folks.
I'm using the Spool Holder & Buffer for Core One MMU3 Community Version by Sam:
https://www.printables.com/model/1378191-spool-holder-buffer-for-core-one-mmu3-community-ve
Before this, I tried a couple of other buffer designs, and they all had the same issue.
Whenever the printer unloads filament from the nozzle, the filament gets kinked and bent inside the buffer. Then, during the next load, it gets stuck and can't enter the PTFE tube because of the kink. Quite often, when I try to straighten the kink, the filament snaps.
Has anyone else experienced this issue or found a solution? Edit: The printer I use is regular core one if it matters.
I have these blobs forming on my purge tower and eventually they stack up get big enough for my printer to collide with them and cause layer shift how do i stop it from happening
im using default PLA settings with 0.4HF nozzle on core one
