r/VORONDesign

Image 1 — Got my 2.4 stealthchanger running again!
Image 2 — Got my 2.4 stealthchanger running again!

Got my 2.4 stealthchanger running again!

Got a Bambu Lab H2C back in March and around that same time my 2.4 corrupted it's SD card. I had just gone through all the calibrating and tuning for the stealthchanger and was a little disheartened with the whole situation so it got put on the back burner. Earlier this week I finally decided to upgrade it to boot from an SSD and get it up and running again. I forgot how badass these printers are! For quick prototyping, it can't be beat. Running a 7 minute prototype right now and started it in both printers at the same time. The Voron is halfway through and the Bambu is just wrapping up all of it's calibrations... God I missed this thing!

u/sjack1209 — 23 hours ago

Formbot 0.2

I made the grave mistake of buying 3d printed parts from formbot. It is missing a bunch of stuff apparently (the one giving me grief immediately is the lack of rail installation guides)

Should I just buy all new parts from the pif thing or try to fudge it...?

I dont feel very confident without the proper parts... I have no idea why they'd even list printed parts as a bundle when they cheap out. So confused.

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u/immerlain — 22 hours ago

Rebuilding my abandoned 4‑year‑old Voron 2.4 (350×350×350) — upgrades being considered: CNC TAP, ChaoticLab CNC motion system, CAN‑bus, and Stealthburner/Galileo2

I built a 350×350×350 Formbot Voron 2.4 about 4 years ago, messed with it for four months, and then completely gave up on it. First layers were a nightmare, Z‑offset drifted constantly, and I felt like I spent more time babysitting it than printing. It sucked the life out of me and the printer has been sitting untouched ever since. At times, it printed really well and just when I was confident I had things working great, I would get a catastrophic failure.

Now I want to rebuild it properly with modern parts and make it bulletproof.

Original machine:

  • Voron 2.4 350×350×350
  • Formbot kit (lightly used, old design)
  • Afterburner + Clicky
  • Stock wiring harness and drag chains
  • Titanium backers installed

Considered upgrades:

  • ChaoticLab CNC TAP Pro V2
  • ChaoticLab CNC XY joints (r2 belt path)
  • ChaoticLab CNC A/B idlers, front idlers, Z idlers, motor mounts
  • Stealthburner + Galileo2
  • CAN‑bus toolhead (leaning SB2040)
  • PIN mod + new belts
  • MGN12 X‑rail

Looking for advice on:

  • Whether the full ChaoticLab CNC motion system is worth it for a 350
  • Best CAN‑bus board for SB + G2 + CNC TAP
  • Any pitfalls with CNC TAP Pro and the CNC XY joints
  • Must‑do upgrades I’m missing
  • Anything I should avoid
  • Recommended places to purchase the upgraded parts.

Since the printer does not currently print, I need to purchase the printed parts for Stealthburner, and potentially other miscellaneous parts.

I should also add that this was my very first printer, so I am an old Noob, and felt like I was drinking from a fire hose. So lots to relearn and plenty of dumb questions pending.

My goal is a rock‑solid, low‑maintenance Voron with consistent first layers and zero babysitting. Any guidance from people who’ve rebuilt older Formbot kits or gone full CNC would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks!

Bill

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u/WRankin — 1 day ago

Voron 1.8 with MGN12H X

I recently upgraded my X axis to MGN12H on my 1.8. I wanted to share that you'll need additional from the XY of the original 1.8 is:

2x M5x40

4x M5x10

8x M3x16

2x M5 shims

You'll need to print the XY joints from the Trident and flip them and youre good to go. Belts line up perfectly.

The original Y limit switch will work and you could use sensorless for X if you're comfortable with that. Currently printing a bracket I designed for X so I can go back to a limit switch on that axis as well.

u/8to4trail — 1 day ago

Voron X carriage Confusion

Hello, I am doing my first Voron 2.4 build, with an LDO hardware and printed parts kit. So far the build has gone well and following the build guide and LDO build changelog has really made it a breeze. But when trying to install the stealthburner tool head I've found that the included X brackets have the heat set inserts on the backside rather than the frontside shown in the guide. I've checked and there are no other brackets included with my kit. And I can't find any info about the difference with these brackets. Would I be okay to just install the heat set inserts on the backside and use a longer screw? Or is there a reason I would need/want to source the brackets with the shown insert orientation?

Update in case somebody else has a similar problems, the x carriage brackets were an outdated version and I will be printing a replacement set as soon as I get it running. But in the meantime I have used a drill bit slightly larger than the screw hole on the frontside to expand it slightly to just the depth of the heat set inserts and installed them on the front and it seems to be holding well.

u/Chaos-0007 — 1 day ago

My deepest respect to the builder of this machine

I bought this used machine, but in pristine condition (60h print time). I just want to show you what a great job the original builder of this Machine did back then. I just upgraded to CAN and want to share this as a great example for good organisation of all the cables and components. I didn't do such a great job by myself.

u/whilex — 2 days ago

Attempted to do a 16HR Print and i got this error. It stopped mid way through what could this mean or what can i look into to figure this out.

u/HypnoticFallacy — 2 days ago
▲ 133 r/VORONDesign+1 crossposts

DIY Smart Filament Sensor with custom Setup App & Klipper Clog Detection — Going Open-Source Soon!

Hi everyone!

I'm wrapping up a DIY Smart Filament Sensor project that's going fully open-source soon. It catches nozzle clogs, filament slips, and runouts with high precision, costing under $10 to build!

🛠️ Bill of Materials (BOM):

Category Component Name Qty Description / Technical Details
Electronics ESP32-C3 Super Mini 1 Main microcontroller (WiFi/BLE enabled, ultra-compact form factor)
Electronics AS5600 Magnetic Encoder Module 1 Contactless filament movement tracking (Must include a diametric magnet)
Electronics WS2812B Neopixel 5050 RGB LED 1 Status indicator (Single round PCB format)
Mechanical Grooved Bearing (U604ZZ) 2 OD: 13mm, ID: 4mm (The pulley/bearing the filament rides on)
Mechanical Dowel Pin (3mm x 15mm) 1 Smooth steel pin used as the central axle/shaft for the bearing mechanism
Mechanical O-Ring / Seal Ring 1 OD: ~11mm (Stretched over the bearing to grip the filament and provide friction)
Hardware PC4-M6 Pneumatic Fitting 2 6mm thread, used as entry/exit guides for the PTFE tubing
Hardware Compression Spring 1 Pen-style spring to apply tension on the bearing
Hardware M3 Screws As needed For main housing assembly and structural mounting
Hardware M2 Self-Tapping Screws As needed For securing the ESP32, AS5600, and Neopixel PCBs

🚀 Key Features:

  • USB-Only Klipper Integration: Plugs directly into your Raspberry Pi/host via USB. No motherboard wiring needed!
  • Zero Cumulative Drift: Uses a differential sliding window algorithm. It matches commanded extrusion vs. actual movement, resetting drift automatically to prevent false-positive print pauses.
  • Custom Setup App: A sleek React/Electron companion app for 1-click calibration, live measurement, and adjusting noise/sensitivity settings over serial.
  • Smart RGB LEDs: Smooth status breathing/pulsing states via FastLED.

I am finalizing the enclosure STLs and polishing the code to release it all on GitHub soon.

I’d love to hear your thoughts and suggestions!

u/ozncshn — 3 days ago

My Voron build so far…

I was inspired by someone posting here and decided to make my own acrylic deck. I also have LDO CNC AWD gantry kit.

u/jayvan59 — 2 days ago

Just started my trident

Just started my self sourced ( I mean cut/drill/tap) Voron trident. Still more parts to print. But looking good. People may ask why not a kit. Well I don’t have close to 2k to buy vs 100$ for 2020

u/Zealousideal-Sir-198 — 3 days ago

Cable recommendations (PTFE vs Silicone?)

I have a Voron 2.4 and it is working right now. However, I am nearly out of thin cable for the moving parts (inside cable chains). The sourcing guide mentions 22AWG PTFE and 18AWG Silicone. However, the Aliexpress link for the 22AWG PTFE is dead. (The striveday link for the 18AWG is working, and the vendor does offer a 22AWG silicone set too).

Is there any reason or rule of thumb for choosing PTFE vs Silicone for which kind of cables and when? I have suffered some broken cables and have migrated from classical to CAN toolhead. I have some emotional scars...

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u/marius_siuram — 3 days ago

Thinking on building a Siboor kit. Are the CNC parts worth it? and some thoughts...

I've spent some time researching my next printer. Things I know:

  • I want to know/understand every internal thing of it, so a kit is required.
  • It should be corexy because is the most robust design as of today. I still love bed slingers, they are elegant in their design, and there are a few that are fast but they limit you to a few filament types.
  • It must run klipper. I think this is a must for a good ratio of speed, quality and customization, and also I'm a Linux user, so.... This requirement discarded printers like Prusas with their custom Marlin.
  • It should allow for easy maintenance. The Vorons are pretty "open" (frame), the reverse electronics mod for the Trident is amazing. I'm also loving the 2.4 more "clean" design where everything stays in the low side and the top is pretty clear.
  • It must be aestetic, because it will be staying at my little flat with white walls. Printers that are obscure boxes are totally discarded (this means 90% of printers actually). It's sad that companies don't explore this niche a bit more. They think their printers will be installed in the basement or a print farm, I don't know. Voron's structure are some profiles, that can have any color you want and clear sides.

So the question about the CNC parts is that while they are very durable and rigid, I suppose they can't be modified anymore, and if one of those parts, somehow, break, I'm done.

I understand that printed parts are more fragile but allow for unlimited repairs and customizations.

Are they worth it then?

This is more or less the setup I'm looking for (generated with AI), even though I don't know where to get the white profiles:

https://preview.redd.it/iyc56urvqv1h1.png?width=1402&format=png&auto=webp&s=1497fe274154942627d8e5500751990a73f33360

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u/Successful-Peak-6524 — 4 days ago

Help] Filametrix cutter stalling X-axis (42-40 motor) on Stealthburner/G2E setup

Hello everyone,

I’m running into a wall trying to get a Filametrix cutter running consistently on my franken-printer setup. I've spent about 5 hours tweaking it and could use some fresh eyes.

The Setup:

* Base Printer: Ender 3 V2 (using a physical strike block on the frame)

* Toolhead: Stealthburner with Galileo 2 (G2E)

* MMU: TradRack system

* Cutter: Filametrix

* X-Axis Motor: Upgraded to a 42-40 stepper

* Filiment: PLA

The Issue:

The X-axis stepper motor stalls or slips during the cutting stroke. It will occasionally complete 1 or 2 successful cuts, but then the blade refuses to push through, or the X stepper skips steps/grinds. I have swapped to a fresh blade and verified the filament path is clear.

Relevant Klipper Configs:

My [stepper_x] base run_current is: 0.85A

Here are the relevant macro settings I'm currently running:

variable_cut_axis_steppers : 'stepper_x'

variable_cut_stepper_current : 150

variable_cutting_axis : "x"

variable_pin_loc_xy : 5, 115

variable_pin_park_dist : 5.0

variable_pin_loc_compressed_xy : -1.4, 115

variable_travel_speed : 150

variable_cut_fast_move_speed : 65

variable_cut_slow_move_speed : 4

variable_cut_fast_move_fraction : 0.8

Has anyone run into X-axis stalling issues with the 42-40 motor on a Filametrix setup? Should I be looking at adjusting my fast move fraction/speeds for more momentum or modifying my setup?

Any advice would be highly appreciated!

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u/Archedearth7000 — 4 days ago

Gap between rear z rails and bed mount trizero mi

Hey!
I’m modding my v0.2 into tri-zero and I’m not sure if I’m missing something or what. I have a gap between mounting and rear z rails. Any clue?

u/mariuszmialpsa — 3 days ago

What issues would I run into scaling a Trident to 180x180x?

If I just use the configurator to generate extrusion specs, what issues would I encounter if I scale a Trident to 180x180x(probably 200) ?? Any places where the stock parts will be too big to fit (skirts obviously). I know TinyT exists so I can use that for a resource too.

I want to go 2020 not 1515 so that's why not Salad Fork.

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u/Snobolski — 4 days ago

mellow fly eddy printer cfg

Hi, does someone here use the Mellow Yellow Eddy and would share their printer cfg with me? I have some issues with Eddy Ng, and I am not sure what the issue exactly is. I would like to have some reference points. Thanks for any help.

https://preview.redd.it/gm7ncr5a2z1h1.jpg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ec0301120ae9db01d9ba72744d17a19b091b34c5

https://preview.redd.it/aw3wes5a2z1h1.jpg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b25ea6fe22ac9a59862be13643efdb04a1e63fc8

https://preview.redd.it/nyzfrs5a2z1h1.jpg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=57cba06ff7408c169b5b01d222f57018f1b82229

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u/InitialSchool2296 — 3 days ago
▲ 140 r/VORONDesign+2 crossposts

I’m ready!!

Just got this cutie couple weeks ago and committed to outperform anything out there! Just give me couple of couple months.

Now looking for honest advise, would Z Max with 2209 drivers (EBB36 board) on 24v be a meaningful upgrade, putting aside Z Max perks and Pi 4 extra headroom? Or it'll really shine going full hardcore with 5160 drivers on 48v and solid steppers? Keeping in mind whole electronic setup, wiring and config effort. I'm still within amazon's return window and won't like to spend much more for couple months.

u/Infamous-Amphibian-6 — 6 days ago

Heavily modified voron build. Thoughs?

Just finished the main build of my large-scale CoreXY. Wiring and CANBus are finally sorted, and Klipper is tuned.
Specs:
Build Volume: 400x400x350mm
Board: BTT Octopus Pro
Toolhead: EBB36 (CANBus)
Probe: BTT Eddy Coil (I2C) for lightning-fast meshing

Currently finalizing the electronics bay cooling and toolhead offsets. It’s a lot of mass to move, but she’s homing perfectly.

Would love to hear your thoughts!

u/ozncshn — 7 days ago