Dragon Ace (non-volcano) owners, how long does it take to heat up to 260°C? Also, please state if you have the newer ~90-100W heater which they include now.
Would you recommended this hotend, or something else?
Hi! Been 3D printing for some time now with a somewhat modded K1C and I am starting to see some limitations that I would like to overcome with my next printer.
I mostly print with engineering filaments (ASA, ASA-CF, PA6CF, PC and TPU - I really want to print TPU reliably). Ideally I would like a 3 or 4 printhead tool changer:
Based on my experience with K1C, I think I would like to be able to print from dryers mounted on top of the enclosure, preferably with front or rear filament exits to keep the PTFE tubes as short as possible. Are there even any dryers like this? Most I have seen have a top exit.
Would it be better to just make the enclosure tall enough to fit all the spools inside above the printheads? Can I even do that with tool changers or will it tangle? I definitely want a fully enclosed printer for moisture, heat, noise and air quality management.
Does it make any sense at all to have a different toolheads for support material and for TPU?
I was thinking that PLA doesn't need a hardened nozzle or a hotend that reaches 300C so I could save some money.
For TPU my reasoning is similar, plus the tension on the extruder could be set specifically for TPU. I would also probably not run any (or minimal length of) PTFE tube for this one.
Did anyone built something similar?
As I'm planning to buy a secondhand a Voron 0, I'm in the exploration phase and I'm looking for a hotend.
Looking at the lists of supported hotends by AntHead and DragonBurner V8:
My Voron 2.4 has a Rapido 1 and it's working great, so adding another Rapido (model 1 or 2) would make me save money on replacement parts and nozzles.
I don't even need ultra High flow setups. I'm not aiming to have a racecar but I want it to print reliably.
As I read contrasting opinions on the Phaetus Rapido hotend, is it worth to move to a different hotends in the same price range?
I got through the set up docs, downloaded the cube and pressed print, and I sort of can’t believe it.
.2 layer, .4 nozzle, default orcaslicer with never dried ambrosia asa.
Serial request coming once I finish building the nevermore micro.
I recently switched to a filamatrix stealth burner with cartographer, setup for the box turtle.
The only problem is the place I had priming poop+kick setup was the back left of the bed. Now with the cartographer it hits the poop before the nozzle.
I am worried about longevity with that setup. I thought about moving to the front of the bed, but that’s where bed fans and nevermore are. I could do side and hit it with the toolhead instead of nozzle, but worry about “riding up” on the pellet rather than kicking it (since the toolhead is angled).
Any suggestions on a solution? Should I just live with the cartographer hitting the pellet first? Maybe put a shield behind the probe? Or is there some other elegant solution I am missing?
Very excited to share finished CAD assembly and all STLs for the Trident 300Cube R1 modification to fit 1 inch x 1 inch aluminum extrusions. Wanted to keep it as close to original as possible. Released as the FootCube on github, here FootCube, for the 12"x12"x12" build volume (cubic foot). Was working on this when Voron was releasing the Trident R2 and now I am working on the R2 modifications. Also, adding room for tool changer.
Do you have a small question about the project that you're too embarrassed to make a separate thread about? Something silly have you stumped in your build? Don't understand why X is done instead of Y? All of these types are questions and more are welcome below.
I understand things take time. After the public debut of the fixed and ready-to-roll proof-of-concept machine, I've been antsy for *any*thing to work with. While the manual is being worked on, are there *any* parts lists or files for printing/CNC/laser-cutting so some.of is obsessives can get started? Do we know anything about extruder/hotend/nozzle options? With such a large build volume, I'm hoping for UHF capability.
I know I'm not the only impatient one, but I'm *really* ready to get moving on this while waiting for the full BOM.
I just ordered the LDO Stealthchanger kit on a bit of a whim (first mistake) and saw you needed to provide the hotend/extruder separately. Figured id try something new (second mistake) considering West3D was providing discounts for getting them in the same order as the kit, so i got a bunch of Orbiter 3.5s. I am now looking at parts i needed to print and noticed there is almost no support out there for this all-in-one system, unless im looking in the wrong place. I was hoping to make a few A4Ts with this setup, but am now realizing i mightve made a mistake choosing this product as i cant even find a basic stealthchanger mod for this, much less more modern hotends. There are so few designs for parts cooling shrouds that i think i bought a half baked system. I know this exists, but it does not look stealthchanger compatible.
https://github.com/ZTFerrari/OrbiterV3VoronMount/releases/tag/V1
Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks!
I've been waiting a while.
Hello, I’m currently building a Trident as my first Voron project.
I’m considering replacing the M5 screw in the AB drive’s idler stack with a pin instead. Would it be fine to simply swap the screw for a pin without any additional modifications?
At first, I thought it would work without issues, but upon closer inspection I realized that the screw not only secures the idler stack but also connects the upper and lower parts of the AB drive.
I’d appreciate your thoughts.
Hi guys, i'm looking for updating my voron to 2wd monolith gantry and i was wondering if i can reuse the x axis alluminium profile and rail or i have to change it. I dind't finid anything about that in the official documemtation. I have a voron 2.4 formbot kit
In addition i've seen there is a faq on the flipped belts but i cannot understand in which sense and if ai can apply it to my tap stealthburner
Was looking into eventually converting my 350mm Voron 2.4 into a stealthchanger in the future but there seems to be a lot options and paths I can take so I have some general questions. Currently I just have stealthburner with E3D V6 nozzle. My understanding is that if I stick with a stealthburner toolhead, I can only fit 5 toolheads. But if I switch it to a A4T or dragon burner I can fit up to 6. Don't plan on building all 6 in one go so this is gonna be an ongoing project for a while.
What tool head should I use? The options I'm considering now are the A4T, Anthead and dragon burner. I haven't really seen any kits for toolheads except for stealthburner and A4T.
What extruders and hotends should I use? I want a balance between performance and cost.
What are some things I need to take into account?
How much self sourcing am I looking at?
What things should I buy upfront? E.g., cables, piano wires, fasteners, etc.
Should I bother with LEDs on the toolheads?
Would I need to consider a filament cutter or would a nozzle scrubber be sufficient?
As with building a voron, options are endless but I just wanted a rough idea of what I'd be getting myself into. So if anybody who's built one in the past can chime in I'd greatly appreciate it.
Describing this is long-winded and sounds weird, so I’m including the picture collage to help describe what I’m referring to.
I’m fitting the x-axis parts together and I’ve discovered I have a combination of the MGN12 rail being slightly too long and the x-axis extrusion being slightly too short. The misfit is <1mm.
Considering I can’t grow out the 2020 extrusion, should I grind down the MGN12 rail ends to make the end faces of the 2020 aluminum extrusion butt up to the end of the XY-joint parts x-axis rail slot, or should I leave the lengths alone and divide that <1mm of space on each side of the extrusion, leaving space at the end of the extrusion between the XY-Joint part?
Sorry if this gives you a brain bleed 🧠🩸🤷♂️
Thanks!
Hi everyone, I'm currently working on my first Voron build.
For now, I'm setting it up with 6mm belts using a double-shear configuration, but I'd like to use a universal X-carriage that supports both 6mm and 9mm belts for future upgrades.
I suspect some 9mm CNC carriages on the market might physically accommodate 6mm belts,
but manufacturers rarely provide exact belt-path dimensions. So, i'm not entirely sure.
Has anyone used a universal CNC X-carriage, or can confirm if a specific 9mm carriage works fine with a 6mm setup?
Been slowly picking away at this thing the last month or two after work. Added a modified version (for larger size) of the electronics drawer inspired by Fun3DP with his ElecTray on github. Also modified the pullys from the original setup from the monolith awd from Monolith3D. I noticed the set screws on the pullys were rubbing the belt so I pulled those out and replaced with standard idler pullys but ground down the flanges so they would fit at the 4 corners by the motors and did the same thing at the x gantry because the original version had the one flange removed allowing the belt to ride up. And printed a more solid spacer.
Now i just need to actually mount the hardware in the electronics drawer and start wiring. All hardware was sourced from Amazon. Both the gantry and drawer slide nice and smooth. The bottom of the drawer sits about 1/8 inch above the carpet which i think is perfect clearance for sitting on the floor.
I'll be running both a 24v and 48v psu with TMC5160T v1.0 on an octopus pro. And I already have the cb2 initially programmed on the btt pi4b adapter.
Slowly but surely getting closer to being able to fire it up. I'm still considering turning it into a tool changer later after I get it fired up.
Recently a YUDX tool changer video and Github was announced.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vm4MIgcpSWI
https://github.com/dumplinglab/YUDX-tool-changer/
The video shows the tools being changed, and there is a teardown of the extruder with a very good explanation of how it works. You can print everything but the extruder, and it looks like it is being setup to to be sold as a kit of parts.
One clever thing I noticed is the use of 2 "door lock switch PR-03" to retain the tool in the dock instead of magnets. Tabs on the tool gets pushed into the switch and it gets locked in place for docking. Then a second push on the tool will unlock the tabs so that it can be undocked. This could easily be adopted in toolchanger systems like StealthChanger or MadMax.
While I don't have precise knowledge of what is inside the Bondtech INDX, I did read their patent and the dual pivot in the YUDX seems to copy that idea. So it will be interesting to see what happens in regards to that.
48V, 300/3000, so close to being finished with this round of upgrades for the printer lol
So about 7 months ago I was ordering parts to build a micron with stealth changer and I ordered 2x of the Triangle Labs Dragon Ace PT1000 and then my life got crazy busy. My original plan was to do a 3 tool changer with a box turtle on the first tool. The planning got a little out of control and I'm at a point where I just want to get the micron built and not worry about stealth changer. I started going through my parts and I noticed that they sent me a dragon ace volcano pt1000 as well as a dragon ace pt1000. Does anyone have any experience or opinions about which is better, more reliable, prints better?
Greetings!
I’m building a Voron 2.4r2 with an A4T toolhead, Rapido 2 UHF hotend, and Orbiter 2.5 extruder.
I’m finding it extremely difficult to feed filament reliably into the hotend. Around 8 out of 10 attempts fail, and when that happens I have to completely release/remove the tensioning latch and manually guide the filament through. That doesn’t feel like normal operation.
One thing I’ve noticed is a small metallic tube-like structure protruding upward just below the extruder gears. The filament seems to miss its opening most of the time and instead jams to one side of it just like in the attached image.
What am I missing here? Is there an adjustment or alignment issue I should be checking?
Any advice and guidance from people familiar with the Orbiter 2.5 would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.