r/VORONDesign

I'm hooked on 3d printing...I bought a Flashforge AD5M first to test the waters. I also own a Snapmaker U1 now and I'm starting to look into building my first voron.

Before I dive down this rabbit hole I figured I would post here and ask for any tips. Basically, if you had to build your voron all over again what would you do differently.

I'm just now starting my research and getting all my ducks in a row. For background, I've been into micro electronics including soldering and have built quite a few open-source projects that have taken multiple weeks. I'm confident in my skill and determination. Coding and gcode would be the only skills im lacking.

For wants I would love to have multiple toolheads if thats possible. Also bigger is better in my eyes. I'm always running out of build plate.

Thanks and I'm looking forward to becoming a part of this community.

My machine:
EDIT: M8p with a CM4
Fysetc H36 connected through canbus
Armored BoxTurtle connected through canbus
Klipper version 0.13
Moolnraker version 0.10
Klippy Logs

I am struggling with time to close MCU crashes. The errors only happen after printing for 8 plus hours on small parts.

The issues started after I switched from a cable chain and wire harness to a fysetc H36 tool head board on canbus.

To try and resolve the issue I have upgraded from a CB1 to a CB4 8GB ram with no significant change. Looking over my klippy logs, I noticed that all the Print stall errors happen immediately after a max speed change in the G-code from Orca. I also see that I have no errors on the canbus. I did find that disabling adaptive pressure advance helped, and allow the prints to go longer before it crashed.

is there a mount for rapid burner with a hotend of stock mk8 plus volcano block and nozzle?

The Bondtech IDX patent was published on 21 May 2026. The international publication number is WO 2026/104597.

Here the bibliographic link:

https://worldwide.espacenet.com/patent/search/family/097751174/publication/WO2026104597A2?q=wo2026104597

Here the direct link to the document:

https://worldwide.espacenet.com/3.2/rest-services/images/documents/WO/2026104597/A2/formats/pdf?EPO-Trace-Id=n0vsf0-4gtlzj-XXX-000065

Does anyone had analyzed it?

I built an LDO V2.4d this spring. When I print a 100mm square, the diagonals are off by 1mm. Same for fleur-de-cali (and the same corners, of course). Following Ellis and Nero, my Z bearing joints are nicely adjusted. I cannot get the xy bar square. On each end of the bar there are two bolts on top and one on the bottom. Loosen the six bolts, and I can twist the bar way out of line. When I let go, it goes right back to where it was. What am I missing?

https://preview.redd.it/obyhyehiptah1.png?width=1280&format=png&auto=webp&s=cc90e1b97dbac43a00be3ebf1b47c352bce3c8e2

I am currently designing a lightweight probe for 3d printers and this one is made for voron printers, it weighs 28 grams with everything assembled as carriage part, without the linear block.

I will be buying my first 3D printer and I am still evaluating a few options. One of them is Voron. I read a recent thread here and I know that Voron is not recommended for beginner. But I want something that will have parts, possible upgrades, and it is not locked in software and electronics. Also looking for high temperature hotend and 350x350 or 400x400 size. I do not have that much time and I do not want to mess with Klipper in the beginning, so I thought about Sovol SV08 and Formbot Troodon 2.0 pro, because mostly assembled Voron sounds good. I am reading SV08 is not good quality. I could not find much information about Troodon, so I am asking here if anyone has experience with it.
And additional question - I understand that those two printers are based on Voron 2.4. Is there mostly assembled printer based on Trident?

I’m investigating the implementation of stealthchanger on a V2 which I’m currently building.
Instead of the relative complex door buffer, I would use 2040 extrusions at the front and install a 2020 extrusion in between for the modular dock.
As such I’m not losing space and add some additional strength in the frame.
Any thoughts if this would be a good idea?

First, let me disclose, I'm an Prusa expat and Voron user for about a year now. I built my 300 cube Trident last summer and I'm very happy with it. From HW aspect, my Trident is vastly superior to my previous printers, but I am still being bit by being accustomed to pre-tuned profiles handed to me on a silver platter (and I am painfully aware of it). I went through tuning on PETG and PLA with OrcaSlicer and ABS on Prusa Slicer.

I'm still kinda bouncing between those two options. Both are being actively maintained and both have really good features. The only dealbreaker for Prusa seems to be their concept of Print settings vs. Filament settings. Orca lets you override many things on the filament level, which supersedes the Print level settings. In Prusa Slicer, those two are more disconnected, and filament doesn't override much. This works well if you are okay with the conservative "works for all" settings but gets in the way when you want to tune for a filament, quality, and speed.

I'm not a heavy user, I don't run my printers for business, they are just my hobby. Oh and I'm in the middle of building a Micron too.

What's your situation? I'm curious, especially if you print with many materials.

Hi all. Is there any CAD software people recommend using in 2026 besides Fusion 360?

I actually had a $$$ Fusion 360 license for a few years and never used it. Kind of a big waste of money for me, if I can be honest.

Now I'm trying to open the program again and, while I can open STEP files (like the Tiny T STEP file), I can't export the individual components to an STL file or export it to its own STEP file. I'm pretty sure I need to up my subscription again. But I open Fusion 360 maybe once every three or four months these days, and I don't want to just burn money if I can avoid it.

I do have Alibre (which I get to own for life! Imagine that!). However, it absolutely chokes with larger files like the Tiny T STEP file.

Thanks for the help!

edit

Just as an update to this.

First, I downloaded FreeCAD and it seems vastly improved from when I used it years ago. I was able to do what I wanted to do (export a part in the Tiny T model to STEP or STL) using it.

I will have to give FreeCAD a shot again when I need to model something out next time. Maybe now it is Crash Free (TM)? (I was trying it before on both Linux and Windows and it was... well, we could call it Sir CrashesALot).

Second, I google-ed for "Fusion 3D for Personal Use" and, while logged in to my account (on their website), downloaded the binary to install that "Personal Use" version. However, I never uninstalled Fusion and re-installed the trial version. But when I opened up Fusion again to try the trick /u/devsfan1830 mentioned, it stated that I was back on the trial version again. Now I am able to export components to, say, STL files again.

Thanks for your help everyone!

Hi, has anyone modded the Z_Drive parts so that the ridges/guides fit European extrusions? The original parts have 6mm wide guide ridge but my I need 8mm. Thought I'd ask here before fixing it myself :)

I've modified the R2 trident for 9mm belts but haven't tested yet.

I never imaged how difficult it could be to find a table for a 3D printer, but as it seems, all the tables in my home aren't really built for a 3D printer. The wobbles could be acceptable to a Core One printer, but for my upcoming Voron 2.4, 350m, I think this one at least deserves it's own dedicated table.

Conditions I would like:
- Weight limit of 180kg (or 400lb)
- Dimensions of 48inx30in minimum
- Study on an acceptable level (subjective to all, and I'm depending on people's table feedbacks to their respective tables!)
- Does NOT need to be adjustable, but would be nice
- Does NOT need shelves/storage, but would be nice

Tables I've considered:

1. Uplift 48x30. Tried and true, I have a larger Uplift that I use as my personal table, this should be able to handle a 3D Printer.
2. Husky. A very close pick, but there's no Husky tables at a depth of 30in that I could find.
3. Uline. A very acceptable table, but may just be a hair out of my budget tolerance; I'm trying to find something cheaper first.

The Voron 2.4 will be my first major 3D printer (with my first being a Prusa Core One, assembled by me) and I can sort of see the shortfalls of my current setup with my Core One, so I really want to prepare for an even bigger 3D printer