I’m not sure why the timing gears this add-on makes are slightly oval shaped, and not perfectly circular.
This 5GT gear with 22 teeth, the gear is generated with L=33.65mm and W=33.87.
Can anyone give me some advice?
Describing this is long-winded and sounds weird, so I’m including the picture collage to help describe what I’m referring to.
I’m fitting the x-axis parts together and I’ve discovered I have a combination of the MGN12 rail being slightly too long and the x-axis extrusion being slightly too short. The misfit is <1mm.
Considering I can’t grow out the 2020 extrusion, should I grind down the MGN12 rail ends to make the end faces of the 2020 aluminum extrusion butt up to the end of the XY-joint parts x-axis rail slot, or should I leave the lengths alone and divide that <1mm of space on each side of the extrusion, leaving space at the end of the extrusion between the XY-Joint part?
Sorry if this gives you a brain bleed 🧠🩸🤷♂️
Thanks!
I could use the communities pinion because I’m not sure whether it matters and if the rubber feet will fit right. Included are several types that I find searching on Amazon Canada.
Thank you.
I’m looking for an affordable fishing boat day-rental available in the Orillia, Barrie or Innisfil area to fish around the coasts of Lake Simcoe between Orillia and Innisfil.
I’m not looking for anything fancy or fast, just a simple fishing boat with a slow 4-stroke off-board motor would satisfy. I don’t need bells or whistles.
Thanks for any advice.
Has anyone seen a CAD file for the complete Ender 3 printer? I am looking for a 3D of these parts shown in the images. The plate that I need most is the left-side x-axis gantry motor mount plate.
I’m a 3D modelling noob, but I’ve been trying to make the part from scratch. For one, trying to copy it from these pictures but they’re too skewed to be useful . My last resort is working in the background to create exact matches but I don’t want to take my printer apart to measure it in detail, and I need to keep it running to print parts for a project I’m working on.
I’ve been looking high and low, with anything I’ve found only being the backside gantry plates.
Thank you.
I cut and tapped the extrusion myself and the cuts and cube look square to the eye but it’s slightly off from perfect 90° angles when I measure it with a square. I manually adjusted my saw blade and fence with a square the best I could, but nonetheless it’s an old saw and there is some small deviation.
I read that I can shim it so I ordered some stainless 0.001” to 0.01” precision shims. Also read that I can sand or file them straight but I don’t know the best technique.
I bet I’m not the first person with this issue and I’m hoping the good people of this sub will ease my stress and get me going in the right direction.
Thank you.
Please see pictures. This is an older Dewalt Double Bevel 12” miter saw rated for 3600RPM. The model ID stick is peeled right where the model ID is. It’s probably from around 2005 approximately or maybe a bit later. I got it used about 10 years ago.
I crashed and jammed the blade which bent the unknown part I circled in red, with highlight screws. I’m calling the black stamped steel blade shroud part. What is this part snd what is its purpose? Is it dangerous to use the saw without this part?
The stamped part seems tricky to repair myself by heating and hitting it with a hammer, so I’d prefer to buy a replacement if possible.
First I need to know the model number to find the manual and parts list, to find the correct part number. I’m not sure how hard it will be to find once I have the saw’s model number and shroud part number. I’m sort of out of the loop, but just incase anyone knows where I could find this part, if it isn’t obvious?
Thanks!
Whats the best way to save this?
Honestly Nu Amato would NEVER question his faith. If anything this movie will confirm his faith.
Season #5’s Deep Space Homer to save the day.
This is from my nephews remote control car that I want to fix for him.
The main problem is that the switch, and the whole pcb, is covered with a clear type of resin, or something like silicone polyurethane or acrylic. It seems to soften when touching it with a soldering iron. Unfortunately the board is glued with the stuff, into the plastic case it sits in so i need to somehow remove it to solder the switch out.
Does anyone have any advice on how to do this delicately so I dont ruin the chips on the pcb board?
It seems like everyone (especially the corrupt judge and DA) has given up on Justice for the Electric Sun 19. I don’t think it’s a coincidence that the Gilgo Beach Killer was spotted at the trial on day 2. Just saying….
We need more of this on the CBC and the YTV.
Before I print the large one I’m printing a small version with supports “Touching Build-plate”. The model download page on Creality Cloud doesn’t specifically say anything about supports.
What does the group think? If I print a small 1/10th scale test print and it works with supports “Touching Build-plate” will that be good enough to know it will work?