
r/3Dprinting

"Breakfast Blocks", the building set I wanted since I was a kid
Brings me back to my days of stacking these things on diner tables. When I saw the contest on MakerWorld was for a kids toy I knew just want to make!
Link below if anyone is interested....
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2829868-breakfast-blocks#profileId-3153030
I can't oversell PETG interface layers
The hell that removing these supports would have been enough to get me not to print it, even if I tuned them. But with dual nozzles and petg as the interface on a pla print it's just one firm pull. Absolutely worth the upgrade to dual/multi nozzle.
Microcenter now sells PET-CF! Hopefully more engineering filaments to come. Give PET a try!
PET is a very good compromise in terms of printability, mechanical properties and price. It can also be annealed. 2A people, you’ll love this. If you can print ASA/ABS, you can print this. I ran this filament at 320C (0.4 carbide nozzle), 90C bed, 60C enclosure. An active heated enclosure isn’t required, but you will want an enclosure. Adhesion to glass is very very good, so use a release agent. I am hoping this is a sign that microcenter will start diversifying their filament types. The price isn’t anything special, but for those of you wanting to try PET-CF, it’s only $25. 1kg spools on amazon are around $35-$45.
Updated Demon chain axe
Slightly redesigned, with a new motor and control board. It now runs on regular batteries and also supports phone control (telemetry, sound volume, and motor speed control). The motor is protected by overcurrent protection, and the shaft has been reinforced with an aluminum tube, making it extremely durable and capable of handling powerful axe swings.
Working on my wood game
I used the process at https://forum.bambulab.com/t/3d-printing-achieves-wooden-grain-no-need-3d-modeling/121021 .
Started with woodfill pla. Stained first, sanded 100->300, stained again, sanded 300 again. This is a musical instrument so used food safe stain.
The California 3D Printing Situation Updated
This is interesting. It really does seem like they were correct. The lobby group is just trying to rush things through to get things out there and don't think anyone would look into it. Good summary.
Nice little “upgrade” for the house.
got bored and decided to 3d print light switch plates that glow in the dark for the bathrooms and bedrooms
There’s something so satisfying about being able to solve your tiniest of problems
I’ve been thinking about this one for years and finally sat down to model it. Now larger birds like cardinals can land on the feeder to eat.
Let’s see your niche designs!
I have made printer on toothed rack instead of belts.
I am actually curious why it isn’t a thing in 3d printers. Once calibrated toothed rack works fine for months of printing. No vfa and very quiet. Can go up to 10k acceleration. Almost all parts are 3d printed including rack and y axis reinforcements(excluding old 3d printer frame). Every part I used here is cheapest what I found on Ali so there is a lot of improvement.
My 2 Printed Macaws
i thought i share my 2 3d printed macaws, They look amazing.
Made a thing
Ball and shadow seats shamelessly downloaded from thingiverse, enclosure made in Fusion.
I Tested 5 PLA brands (6 spools) across 5 break tests - the price didn't convert into strength. Here's the data.
I ran a break test on six PLA filaments priced between $13 and $60 CAD/kg.
Five tests: tensile (dogbone along the print), layer adhesion (dogbone rotated 90°), M3 screw pull-out, dimensional accuracy, and warping. Three samples per mechanical test. Same printer, same settings, same Prusa MK4 profile throughout.
The tensile result was what you'd expect — Prusament won at 62.2 kg average, budget PLA came in at 54.8 kg. Twelve kilograms spread across the full range.
Layer adhesion is where it fell apart. Polymaker ($25) topped out at 12.8 kg. The $13 budget spool hit 9.9 kg. Prusament at $60: 7.2 kg. The most expensive filament had the fourth-worst layer adhesion in the test. I ran those numbers three times.
Screw pull-out flipped the leaderboard again — Prusament recovered to 87.9 kg, budget PLA at 85.5 kg, two and a half kilos separating them. Bambu Tough+ ($31) came in dead last at 67.1 kg — which makes sense once you understand why it was the only filament that didn't shatter in the layer adhesion test.
Warping: all six zero corner lift, smooth PEI, 60°C bed, no brim. Nothing to report there.
Full test breakdown, raw data, and the filament rankings with and without price weighting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXaA9NUTj0M
Curious if anyone has seen different layer adhesion results with Prusament - my samples came straight from sealed packaging, no drying.
Chemical Smoothing PLA - Why No Consensus?
I'm pretty new to 3D printing but I would like to be able to smooth my PLA prints, and have been trying to research options for chemical smoothing. What I am finding are wildly different opinions on what works, and I can't wrap my head around this. I've found people saying acetone sort of works, that ethyl acetate works, and that methyl ethyl ketone really works, and I've seen people stating emphatically that none of those do anything.
How is it possible that there's no consensus on how a chemical reaction works? This seems like there should be no room for dispute: a given chemical can dissolve PLA or it can't. What is going on?
I built a tiny direct-modeling CAD app for quick prototyping
I was looking for a tiny CAD app for fast prototyping and testing random model ideas, but most CAD software felt way too heavy for what I needed.
So I made a small direct-modeling mini CAD and decided to open source it in case it helps someone else too.
To be clear: this is very much a vibe-coded project and more of a lightweight wrapper / experimental UI layer than a serious CAD kernel. But for quick experiments and simple modeling ideas, it’s already pretty useful.
I Finished My 3D Printed Excalibur Puzzle — Now With Plants, More Shields, and a Short Look Inside
I finally finished my biggest 3D printed puzzle project so far: Excalibur – The King’s Trial.
The idea was to build something that feels like a small escape room, but is still fully printable and buildable at home for anyone with a 3D printer. I wanted it to be more than just a display piece, so it includes real interaction: drawers, hidden buttons, rotating rings, magnets, lights, motors, and a medieval sword-in-the-stone scenario at the center.
The whole puzzle uses plug-and-play Maker Supply parts like buttons, LEDs, battery holders, cables, and motors. For me, that was one of the coolest parts of the build. It makes a much more complex object still feel approachable for people who mainly come from 3D printing, without needing programming or soldering.
In the video, I also show a short look inside the puzzle. Projects like this always get a bit cable-filled on the inside, but I tried to keep it as clean and buildable as possible without making the routing too complicated. If you want to see more of the electronics inside, you can check my assembly video Part 2 here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPb\_d49aOzw
The finished version now also includes an optional plants-covered / overgrown stone version, plus additional shield designs, so the puzzle can be built in different looks.
The puzzle was also tested and approved by Bambu Lab / MakerWorld, so the complete Maker Supply kit should come to the store in the next days. It is currently part of a MakerWorld crowdfunding project, but the model page is already here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2681966-excalibur-the-puzzle
I also made a full solution & logic guide, because the puzzle has a lot of steps and I wanted it to be something people can actually understand, reset, and let others play.
This was a huge project for me, but I’m really happy with what came out of it: a 3D printed puzzle box / escape-room object that combines printing, mechanics, simple electronics, lighting, and a bit of storytelling.
Did you see? It's a "Prusa CORE One ?"
While I was trying to make money from my printer, when I wanted to pick up the coins I was bitten by it!
Was I too greedy? My CORE One + changed to a "CORE One ?"...!
____________________________
I wanted to make a Mimic version of the CORE One long time ago (almost as soon as the printer was released) but the project was quickly replaced by others and was almost forgotten.
The "Skin" contest was a good opportunity to start over and make it better.
I hope you will like it!
TDLR: IA was used to make the background of the picture, and that's it, everything else was made by hands.
Made a color mixer for my ender
Made an attachment that accepts big refillable markers. Makes for wild gradients. (I used sublimation ink in those markers) Model available here: https://www.printables.com/model/1602235-filament-painter-3-way-color-blender
Made some mountains!
Used touch terrain to get the files to print.
Feels like cheating …
First ever print from my first ever non-resin printer. As you can tell by the color, it’s a Bambu (P1S). I’m blown away by the print quality.
Printed some threads right after and they came out PERFECT. This was the pre-sliced benchy straight from card.
Nonetheless, as I am new to this - anything that could be improved?
- - -
edit: I shouldn’t have used the pre-sliced version, so I’ll print another one.