I wanted a SFFPC for my NAS that could sit on my desk and replace a Synology sized unit. This is based on an intel Nuc8 with 5 2.5" drive slots. Had to build a custom power solution for the drives since the motherboard does not have onboard SATA power. Size is about 7.8"x4.5"x4.5". Fan on top is controlled by a temperature controller so whisper quiet when under low load.
I designed a toaster with an ejector that easily pops up the bread loaves with my credit card inside.
Printed this entire model which was around 70 pieces and 8 months of time. It is about 3.5 feet long. I glued a piece of plywood on the back with a cleat hanger for the wall. Sanding was extremely tedious and required filler primer, base coat, clear coat, decals, and more clear coat. I used rust oleum cans and some airbrushing. The entire model is held together primarily with epoxy with some superglue for non structural parts. I got the model on grabcad and needed to make some modifications in solid works to get it to all fit together, with a magnetic attachment for the front wing. The front wing is 2 parts and the main shell is 5. The rear wing is also 5. Overall, I’m extremely happy with how it turned out!
I was going to buy some ASA filament, but a friend mentioned he's been using regular PLA caps on his trampoline for about two years without any issues. He said they haven't melted, faded, or lost their strength
So is ASA really worth buying?
I wanted to share my new clinical interactive idea with coin machines where I used multiple modalities to make it a therapeutic intervention. (I’m not selling or promoting anything) I just wanted to share for clinical feedback and conversation for integration interactive therapy.
The Integrative Gacha System (IGS)
A Multi-Sensory, Tactile Triage Intervention for SPMI Populations
System Overview
The Integrative Gacha System (IGS) is an interactive, multi-sensory therapeutic intervention designed specifically for SPMI populations in outpatient psychiatric settings. Utilizing 3D-printed, reusable screw-top capsules dispensed from gacha-style machines, the IGS provides immediate, low-barrier symptom management and distress tolerance.
The system bypasses the cognitive overload and executive dysfunction often present in acute clinical settings by using sensory stacking. It pairs specific tactile objects and gustatory/olfactory triggers with trauma-informed clinical prompts.
Operating under a strict invitational model ("You are invited to enjoy..."), the IGS preserves patient autonomy. The 165 integrated prompts are synthesized from multiple evidence-based modalities, including:
CBT: Cognitive reframing and thought-stopping.
DBT: TIPP skills, distress tolerance, and opposite action.
ACT: Value-based micro-steps and psychological flexibility.
Psychodynamic Theory: Relational awareness and unconscious pattern interruption.
Polyvagal Theory / Somatic Experiencing: Nervous system regulation and physiological grounding.
Machine 1: Connecting (Engagement)
Clinical Target: Social withdrawal, paranoid ideation, negative symptoms (alogia, anhedonia), and relational guardedness.
Clinical & Neurological Approach: This machine facilitates the building rapport stage of a therapeutic session. For clients experiencing high social anxiety, making direct eye contact for verbal processing can trigger a threat response. This machine introduces an immediate, non-threatening external focal point, allowing for parallel play. The physical manipulation of a whimsical object acts as a somatic icebreaker, while the sweet candy provides a mild, familiar dopamine release to associate the clinical environment with psychological safety and comfort.
Contents per Capsule:
Tactile: 1x 3D-Printed Zooki (an articulated, whimsical animal figurine).
Gustatory: 1x Sweet Candy (Jolly Rancher).
Cognitive: 1x Folded Integrative Prompt targeting rapport-building and safe unmasking.
Machine 2: Activating (Stimulation)
Clinical Target: Severe avolition, depressive lethargy, executive dysfunction, and behavioral stagnation.
Clinical & Neurological Approach: Designed for a sluggish, under-aroused nervous system. This machine targets behavioral activation through rapid kinetic momentum. The mechanical nature of the fidget requires continuous, active motor movement from the fingers, while the fizzy candy rapidly wakes up the palate. This immediate physical stimulation acts as a primer for the accompanying prompt. By breaking down high-friction concepts into actionable micro-steps, the machine completely bypasses executive overwhelm and provides an immediate mastery experience to build self-efficacy.
Contents per Capsule:
Tactile: 1x Activating Fidget (Flippy chain /fidget spinner, clicker and so on).
Gustatory: 1x Fizzy Candy (Zot).
Cognitive: 1x Folded Integrative Prompt targeting value-based action and momentum.
Machine 3: The Grounding Machine (Crisis Triage)
Clinical Target: Active panic, dissociation, emotional flooding, trauma flashbacks, and acute sensory overload.
Clinical & Neurological Approach: This utilizes a highly effective "Shock-to-Soothe" mechanism. When a client is actively spiraling, the prefrontal cortex is effectively offline. The extreme sour candy and sharp peppermint scent act as a somatic "shock," forcefully interrupting the panic loop and bringing the brain back to the present physical reality. Immediately following the interruption, and the smooth/bumpy textures of the worry stone. The prompt then delivers radical, shame-free validation.
Contents per Capsule:
Tactile: 1x 3D-Printed Textured Worry Stone (for temperature holding and tactile grounding).
Gustatory: 1x Extreme Sour Candy (Warhead).
Cognitive: 1x Folded Integrative Prompt targeting radical validation and somatic regulation.
Hey everyone, this is my 10th design in my open-source assistive/rehab project, Tryspire, and it's a bit different from the usual functional tools I post here.
The Feel Better Syringe is a proof of concept prototype exploring whether a syringe could be measured accurately by touch alone, no visual markings needed. It goes up to 10mL.
It's called the Feel Better Syringe for two reasons. You operate it entirely by feel. And giving the right dose means someone, whether it's a child or a pet, gets to feel better.
How it works:
- The tube has ridges that feel like screw threads
- A full ridge = 1mL
- A partial ridge (split into 4 sections) = 0.5mL
- Your finger can immediately tell a full mark from a half mark just by how much of the ridge it feels
- The plunger has a second piece running alongside it that always lines up with the actual liquid level, so as you pull it, you can count ridges under your finger to know exactly how much you've drawn
There's also a big cutaway on the side of the housing so you can see the mechanism working, which also makes it obvious this is a demo/concept piece and not a real, functional syringe.
Why I made it: I wanted to bring more awareness to a challenge a lot of people don't think about, how someone who is visually impaired would measure medication for a kid or a pet without being able to see the markings. This would genuinely be helpful for people who are visually impaired and have to administer medication to themselves, children or pets. It's not meant to be used as an actual syringe, it's an educational/awareness piece.
It's not perfect. But I think it's a great first step toward creating something better down the line, whether that's me, someone else in this community, or a company with the resources to actually develop and validate it properly.
This one also made me realize proof-of-concepts can be just as valuable as functional tools when it comes to accessibility work. A working tool solves a problem directly. And bringing awareness to a challenge like this can matter just as much, especially for something as invisible to most people as this one.
Files are free as always. You can find the 3MF and STEP files here:
Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7397662
Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1815346-feel-better-syringe-tactile-dosing-for-the-visuall
Maker World: https://makerworld.com/models/3190738?appSharePlatform=copy
Creality Cloud: https://www.crealitycloud.com/en/model-detail/6a8522aee2371c959ea56a8e?cloudPlatform=19
Happy to answer any questions about the design or mechanism!
Previous post for some context:
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/iJMOrgx3d0
I've been working on an infant surgery simulator for a while now, and a few of the tissue models are complex with lots of overhangs. I've succeeded making 3-part molds using a PLA base and TPU shell but silicone finds a way to humble me every time, usually by leaking from somewhere I didn't expect.
Just for fun I printed a model for a silicone tube out of PVA, which worked really well. Now I'm convinced I can make it work for these anatomy models. Some details about the video:
Muscle shell base is PEBA, since I can poke holes in it without tearing the whole model. Usually can patch it with a 3D pen or a blowtorch.
Ran out of Bambu PVA 80% of the way there, and the cheap replacement from Amazon must contain something that inhibits silicone curing. SLA prints have a similar problem, but either way looks like it's Bambu or nothing for this one. Explains why there's holes in the thinner parts and the bottom half is tacky.
For models this size, the 3D pen cant contain the leaks very well. Tried epoxy putty which barely worked, but contributed to the jankiness of the final product. Also had to emergency mix more silicone due to leaks, which is why the coloring is all over the place.
Not exactly a win, but figured I'd share. Any advice is appreciated.
Hi everyone! I’m based in Switzerland and have been working on a passion project: writing custom software that turns incredibly precise open geodata from swisstopo into clean, 3D-printable terrain models. I map everything from single villages to the whole country. As an example, my recent "Bundeshaus" model is at a 1:5000 scale, includes exactly 740 buildings, and is exported as stl ready for printing. You can check out and download all my models for free on Printables here: https://www.printables.com/@manifold\_4820388/models. I’d love to hear your feedback!
Me and my wife love figurines and miniatures, but resin printing is not really viable for us right now. But we have a bunch of FDM printers, so we came up with a workflow for printing models meant for resin on FDM.
Essentially it is:
Upscale the model to about 150mm tall (less detailed models are fine with 100mm, can always do higher and get better results).
Cut the model into pieces to minimize the need for supports. The models you see here were around 30-50 pieces. Meshmixer helps a lot here to make cuts with a finite plate. You can irregular cuts with Blender, but it's not worth it, since they are hard to print.
Import into slicer, paint on supports on all the pieces. As you go you kind of learn which places are really necessary to support and which are going to be fine.
Print with plain PLA (used Elegoo and/or Filacraft) at fairly slow speed. I can talk more about printing settings if anyone is interested later.
Glue the model pieces together, superglue works fine. For joints you sometimes need a little padding since the tolerance are scaled up when you scale the model, so a tiny piece of paper or paper towel soaked in glue helps a lot.
Fill in the joins with Milliput or another epoxy paste. There's many methods it's just what we prefer.
Prime with acrylic gesso, paint base color (it was a very dark brown for all of these I believe) and then brush with metallic wax paste.
What do you guys think?
The models are from Loot Studios' Trials of Hades pack.
I designed and printed this lamp body and the first time I printed it, it came out like I wanted, with just the ribbed body. Somehow during my various redesigns and prints, I made it so that it now always prints within an inner "wall" or "sleeve" that I don't want. I've tried repeatedly to recreate the first attempt (Shapr3D) but can't figure out what I've screwed up. I realize the shell thickness is different on the second one but I've tried over and over to adjust that and it never seems to make a difference. Any ideas?
TIA!
Chop
Making this container ship styled floating can/snack holder for a lake weekend coming up! It's almost complete, just need to add the remaining splash guards and cup inserts. This bad boy is 5 feet long and weighs about 5kg unloaded 😎
I just finish putting up our Autonomous Lamp. A 3D-printed desk arm that moves and talks. Runs on Autonomous OS we built for robots. We open source everything and here's the short version.
5 degrees of freedom. Five STS3215 bus servos, daisy-chained on one TTL bus, into the board through a USB adapter. One cable for the whole arm. No driver board.
First job: servo IDs. New STS3215s ship as ID 1, so I gave each a unique ID one at a time, then calibrated homing. Homing lives in the servo EEPROM, so it survives a reflash. Do it with the arm open.
Single 12 V / 5 A adaptor, ~42 W sustained. A buck steps to 5 V for the board and LED ring. Amp runs on 12 V directly. Board draws ~1.8 A, spikes to 2.5 A at boot. Ring gets capped near 1 A, full white 64 LEDs would pull 3.84 A and brown out the buck. All grounds star-point at the buck output on their own wires.
Moving audio off the onboard codec killed most of the noise. A USB DAC feeds the amp through a short twisted lead, run away from the 12 V harness. The onboard codec stays wired for the sensing mic only.
Two honest gotchas: the sensing mic is the MEMS mic on the OrangePi board, so it has to be desoldered and re-mounted in the base, fiddly, but skip it and you lose ambient sensing. And the buck I used still adds a faint hiss of its own, it's on the list to swap out.
Cleanest part. Flash Linux, run the installer, ~15 minutes to Autonomous OS. The robot declares its hardware in the ROBOT.md in our repo and the OS mounts only that. Behaviors are markdown skills. Type what you want in the app, it writes the skill, live on the next conversation.
I am an extreme amateur when it comes to CAD but I’m proud as hell of this. This four camera mount is for use at my D&D table for my remote players to have a better time.
The mount includes four cameras, one facing the DM, two facing the player tables and one facing down toward the battle map.
The mast is in threaded sections to raise or lower it, or to disassemble it for travel.
The base includes cleats for the extra usb cables.
I've been designing these Skadis panels for a bit and wanted to start branching into more midcentury design to match other rooms in my place. The circles were fun and make it feel very 60s/70s to me. You can see that there's half holes on the edges of the panels so that you can have multiple panels next to each other and continue the pattern.
Let me know what you think!
My daughter saw the 'La Nature' in museum and asked if we can buy it for our house :-). It was impossible to find any good reproduction so we decided to create ourselves in 1:2 scale using innovative materials and additive manufacturing techniques. It took us 5 months to produce it in bronze composite (we adapted the model published by Roberto Dominguez), hand polished and applied deep brown patina. Natural Lapis Lazuli in tiara. Which version do you like more?
This is a response to this deleted thread from yesterday:
I had some ideas about what OP did there, and reading through that thread I got some more ideas. I'm fortunate to have a small print farm, so I just iterated through several variables until I ended up finding something that works. Here's the secret sauce. I don't want money. I'm not going to ask for patreon. I'm not going to act like I just cured cancer.
Use spiral vase mode combined with a tall layer height and a line width just barely larger than the layer height.
E.G.
Insert a cylinder into Orca
Turn on vase mode
Set your layer height to 0.28
Set your line width to 0.30
Set 0 bottom layers
Boom. Done.
I can share a 3MF if people really want, but it's so simple I'm not sure that's necessary. Feel free to iterate and improve on this discovery. I didn't do anything special
EDIT: Makerworld 3MF because someone asked.
Bambu slicer would not play nicely with my imported 3MF from Orca, so I had to quickly redo all the settings. Please let me know if I messed anything up or if it doesn't work from this file. I've tested it successfully on 2 Centuri Carbons, and a Creator 5 pro
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3190703-mesh-filament-settings
EDIT 2: I received this DM from the original deleted thread author. I think they can't post here due to karma. I will share it unedited. Don't cyberbully. It's not cool. Be better.
>
>Hey man I’d like to clarify some things because it seems that there’s still some misunderstanding about what happened yesterday.
>I want to be clear that there was no attempt to monetize the mesh that I created by accident. Coming as a person who just got their printer a month ago, I accidentally created the mesh and posted it to reddit and asked if anyone would make use of it if I researched it a bit more.
>I’m not an expert in this space, so I wanted to figure out exactly how it worked because it was an interesting repeating pattern for me.
>After being bashed in the comments and accused of things saying I was gatekeeping/monetizing, I was upset because I didn’t even expect the post to get that sort of attention. I was assuming that i’d either get comments saying it’s useless and/or already been done so don’t bother looking further into it, or that’s cool post the write up.
>Once the downvotes started rolling in i realized I guess I should have just looked into it before posting from the get go. My initial reason for posting was because it was an accidental failed print, that looked interesting.
>About an hour later I tried to post my rushed write up because like I said i’m not an expert, so I was doing the best with the knowledge I have. Upon trying to post, I wasn’t able to because the mass downvoting made my account unable to interact in the sub. This also made it so I couldn’t reply to comments, leading people to think I was disappearing with my discovery.
>I ended up getting the write up posted on an alt account, which included print files and settings, but I guess people were still upset, because it got downvoted a bunch and the only comments were calling me delusional.
>9:21 AM
>Due to that I just ended up deleting the post because I was just getting bashed on it, and I wanted to stop the flood of negative notifications.
EDIT 3: OOP has shared their results as well. I'll include them. I'm working today, so I won't be able to play around with their settings or test this until probably tomorrow. Still, I think it's helpful to compare and contrast results. I had a nice chat with them, and explained how we value open collaboration in this hobby. They were cordial. Once again for those in the back, don't bully. OOP had a bad day and they're sorry. Let's bring them back into the fold.
Hi everybody,
I got my Bambu Lab A1 yesterday, and i started a few prints on it. But today morning, the prints have these imperfections of it everywhere.
It’s Bambu PLA Basic btw.
It was printed at Standard speed.
What do you guys think it is?
Thanks in advance, y’all the best
