I made a simple adapter to keep my knifes safe and avoid them sliding and shocking against each other to preserve their sharpness.
Scanned in NIR mode with my Creality Pika scanner. Super effective and simple.
I made a simple adapter to keep my knifes safe and avoid them sliding and shocking against each other to preserve their sharpness.
Scanned in NIR mode with my Pika scanner. Super effective and simple.
I used ChatGPT to put the model on the base to avoid having to paint again…
Not bad for a 700€ ultra portable scanner! :)
I used scanning spray on this one
Not the best scan ever, but enough to design accessories around it. :)
Here is the file: https://www.printables.com/model/1803241-creality-pika-3d-scan-for-reference
I’m starting to prepare the HT Hotend and I reprinted the fan duct with PPA-CF (290°C nozzle, 100°C bed on satin sheet).
Material needs to be bone dried before printing and I experienced it. After drying it 12h at 80°C I stored it on the USS Drybox and it worked perfectly.
BUT… the filament is so stiff it was quite impossible to mount the drybox on my printer so I used my USS stand to just be able to put it just next my printer.
The only change I made was to install a mono-wheel idler (seen on picture 3) instead of the standard one with 2 bearings. Without it the filament broke everytime I wanted to load it.
I used this model but I modified it a little so the idler door doesn’t fall when I open it. I may share it if anyone is interested.
Super happy on how it turned out!
I just uploaded a stand for USS Drybox so I can feed my INDX without using spool holders (my futur setup won't need them).
That's why I 3D scanned the USS Drybox earlier haha.
For a 3D print I needed to have the exact geometry of a drying box so I tried to scan it with my Sermoon S1. I didn’t have high hope as it’s a dark translucent shiny plastic box but I gave it a try without any scanning spray… and the Sermoon S1 handled it like a champ!
As there is no 3D model for the USS Drybox, I 3D scanned it to help designing some accessories.
It’s not perfect and I may retro-engineer it later, but it’s a good start!
I will send the link in comment in case someone is interested.
As my bay window did not have handle on the exterior, I scanned it, and modeled one after the scan.
I used my Sermoon S1 with Wifi handle, parallel laser mode with 5 markers.
I also made a quick tutorial to get the main shape and be able to design around it without taking hour.
The rough process took me less than 1 hour between the scan, the design and the print.
As my bay window did not have handle on the exterior, I scanned it, and modeled one after the scan.
I used my Sermoon S1 with Wifi handle, parallel laser mode with 5 markers.
I also made a quick tutorial to get the main shape and be able to design around it without taking hour.
The rough process took me less than 1 hour between the scan, the design and the print.
As my bay window did not have handle on the exterior, I scanned it (Creality Sermoon S1 on my phone), and modeled one after the scan with Fusion 360.
I also made a quick tutorial to get the main shape and be able to design around it without taking hour.
The rough process took me less than 1 hour between the scan, the design and the print.
I think some of you will be interested: I just print a 2h35 long PETG and TPU (95A) door stop model. 200 tool changes, no purge.
I dried my TPU, no enough I think as I got some stringing (but it was really ok).
I did a little clean with hot gun and it looks very cool.
No issue, minimal blobs (one on the back).
Multi material with INDX: check!
PS: I know, I didn’t mount the spool holders because my future setup won’t need them, and I didn’t want to spend too much time building and undo it later.
I will print some spool holders if I need.
But, even with a crappy setup it printed beautifully!
I’m printing XYZ calibration cube with an old and moist 85A TPU filament and it works really well.
Purging and wiping worked perfectly, I did have a thin string between purge bin and print, but no blob, nothing.
It’s printing perfectly fine at 4mm3/s max flow with standard 0.4mm HF nozzle.
INDX is perfectly fine with standard TPU, next time I will dry it out and try PETG + TPU print.
Thanks a lot, I wasn't expecting to win this one!
I'm really proud, and that's thanks to you mostly! So many thanks! 😄
GG to all the participants who made amazing models too!
I can’t wait to be able to test it!
Thanks!
A month ago I posted a picture of a small basket printed in PP-GF for my dad. He’s a jeweler and needed a basket replacement for his « dérocher » (heated acid bath to clean jewelry).
After trying a standard PETG (in blue on pictures) that quickly softened I ordered Prusament PP-GF and sent it a new version.
This one is H24 in acid bath at 70°C since more than 2 weeks and is still good as new (minus some dirt)…
Really please by the result, and so is my dad!
One of my mug broke and I wanted to transform the 2 pieces into 2 different new mugs. Scanned with Sermoon S1 and then modeling with Fusion. I’m really happy how it turned out.
3 months ago, a redditor asked me to make the complementary piece of my broken mug transformed in piece of art (kind of). I finally took some times to make it!
Broken piece was scanned and turned into voronoi style so the left broken piece fit.
I'm really happy of the result, and now my broken mug turned into 2 decoration pieces!
Man, I love 3D printing...! My CORE One L printed it perfectly even with those tons of supports. No layer shift, no VFA, nothing.
u/Netherser thanks for the idea!