r/FixMyPrint

I’ve been using this comgrow arcticgrip aurora plate for a few weeks now with pla and petg. So far all the prints have turned out great and adhesion has been perfect. But last night we had a power outage at 25% of this print (and again at 70%). My p1s was able to resume the print each time, but once it finished I was left with this.

Creality petg, bed 70, all layers 255, using generic petg profile in bambu studio. I’ve already printed most of this roll of petg on this plate without issue.

Wondering if the reheating caused this or if this plate brand was junk to begin with.

Hey yall, been printing fine on a p1s for a few months now but suddenly have been seeing thick lines and blobs, especially on overhangs. Printed using a Bambu p1s and sliced on bambu studio, same problem happens with different filament brands. 215 nozzle, 60 bed.

I have a problem When I try to print, most of the time this happens as you saw in the video. I made sure the bed was clean and the temperature was correct. I have a Bamboo Lab P2S printer. What is the solution to this problem?
Nozzle: 220
Bed: 55
Chamber 33

For the past few weeks I've been having this bizarre issue where the back side of all of my prints looks like garbage, especially the bottom few mm. The weird thing is it doesn't apply to the front, nor does it seem to apply to the supports. I've deep cleaned all axis rails, reset settings to previous parameters, adjusted heat, etc. Nothing seems to help. I don't get it.

General settings: A1 Mini, 0.2mm nozzle, 0.06 or 0.08mm layer height, FDG profile (though it persists with standard as well), 100% fan.

Another issue I've been having is nozzle collision, but strangely only if I have multiple objects. Something like this prints perfectly fine, but as soon as something else goes down the nozzle starts ripping everything off the bed.

I've had my printer in storrage for a bit so I'm a little rusty with everything. I'm not sure what could be the issue with this first layer being semi transparent. Could it be a bed level issue or maybe a temperature one?

Working on Ender 3 at 60° bed and 200° nozzle.

The gcode definitely changes the nozzle temp and while its printing i saw the nozzle temp changing as required. why is it so consistent? i normally see a lot of bad ones from other ppl so im scared im doing it wrong.

X2D, orca slicer, bambu lab asa, 0.16mm high quality. 0.6 pressure advance otherwise stock profile

K1C, PLA, 210°, Orca slicer, KAMPP, calibrated before print

Ender 3 V2, Klipper, SKR2, Sprite Pro direct drive, BLTouch. SUNLU PLA+.

Print settings: 200°C nozzle, 75°C bed, 0.2mm layers, 3 wall loops, 110% line width, PA 0.02, flow ratio 0.98, fan 100% from layer 1, outer wall speed 120mm/s.

Result: segments bind when sliding and feel weak/flex when extended. Surface also has visible ribbing.

I use a Bambu P1S, the filament is LCAISHI’s hot pink. Printed 0.12mm and 0.13mm top surface at 245°c and bed at 80°c. What could be the cause behind this?

So I updated the temperature and retraction settings on the filament, updated rate and pressure for the white. It did improve in my eyes, but I'm still wondering if there's any more improvement to be had ? Maybe it's how the model is set up in the slicer ? Any recommendations, will be appreciated.

Ironing on
Filament dried
Flow rate, pressure, temperature and retraction all done
P2S Combo - Bambu Studio
Green - eSun PLA + (with preset)
White - GIANTARM PLA (with preset)
0.4mm Nozzle
0.20mm Standard @BBL P2S Process

In the slicer:

I have the cube part and then I set the logo as a modifier part inside the cube model itself, and matched the top layers. That is all I have done. If I assemble them, the parts of the logo that are "in the air" materialize instead of going on the cube, hoping you guys understand what I'm saying.

Hi guys,

Using BambuLab Slicer on Xc1 with BambuLab matte filament.

For the life of me I can't fic this seam!

It has suddenly started bulging out on the right side of the seam all the way up it, like it steps out.

Hey folks! Been trying out several different options with Bambu PLA Silk+ top surface finishes and would love to get your advice on where to go next.

Ironing, as many have noted, ends up dulling the finishes. But I noticed that when it sorta acts like "a single wall", it ends up leaving a more spectacular luster. In the attached images, you can best see that with the "ring" around the outer gold oval shape.

So I'm trying to figure out how to get the best texture/sheen/but smooth-ish surface on the remaining part of the oval and the silver delta shape.

I've tried various top surface patterns, and also played around with the density of these. The Archimedean Chords I think tend to look the best.

On a whim, I also tried concentric (which mirrors the "walls only/no top surface approach"). Also interesting, but introduces its own issues with gaps and stuff).

Also played around a bit with the infill overlap, but that didn't seem to have much of a noticeable impact.

Anyway, at this point I've got a bajillion of these little things laying around. haha And just trying to figure out where I might go next to optimize this for a better, more consistent surface sheen. Would love any ideas and recommendations. Unfortunately because of the depth (and because this is actually going on something larger), it has to be printed on its back like this.

Printing on a Bambu X1C, all Bambu filaments, .4 nozzle and as a best practice for silk, I've increased the temp a bit and slowed everything down. (Outer walls 30mm/s, inner walls 40mm/s, Small perimeters 20 mm/s, Top surface 25 mm/s). Other than that, it's using the default 0.16mm High Quality profile, with the appropriate Bambu Silk profiles for each filament. (other than the slightly increased temp).

Thanks in advance for any feedback!

Additional Settings:

BambuStudio
Bed Temp: 55 degrees (Textured PEI plate)
Nozzle Temp: 230 (and tested also at 240 degrees)
Retraction Settings: I'm honestly not sure how to find this, but it's whatever would have been default for the Bambu Silk+ profile or the printer.

Was making these coasters overall great just wondering why the sharper points on the shirt profile and the cheeks didnt fill in. Stock profile on bambu slicer printing on p2s.

Ender 3 V3 plus

Sunlu PLA

220 C

Getting this kind of pattern on all prints (it happens in the same spots).

I've checked belts tension, lubed rods, leveled bed, cleared extruder gears, checked z offset and flow rate.

The extent varies by filament quality, for example:

Pink is Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 - only uneven lines visible or small holes.

Yellow is Sunlu PLA - much worse filament that I rarely use and the result is a complete abomination.

But the pattern is the same, it only varies in intensity.

What else do you think I should check?

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone has seen this before because I'm completely out of ideas.

Two days ago, all three of my X2D printers suddenly started producing the exact same defect. Nothing obvious changed, and it happened on all three printers almost at the same time.

The defect:

• Small random blobs/zits on the outer walls.
• They appear in different locations on every print (not along the Z seam).
• Each blob can be snapped off with a fingernail.
• Just before the blob, there's usually a small smear, as if the nozzle dragged a tiny amount of plastic before leaving the blob.

Things I've tested:

• It happens on every model I've printed.
• It happens with different filaments.
• It happens with both the main nozzle and the auxiliary nozzle.
• I checked all three nozzles and silicone socks – everything looks clean.
• I tried the exact same spool and the exact same project on my P2S, and it prints perfectly with no blobs at all.

So the problem seems to affect only my three X2D printers.

I've attached photos of the defect.

Has anyone experienced something similar?

What could suddenly happen to three printers on the same day that would cause identical random blobs on every print? Could this be related to firmware, a known X2D issue, or is there something else I should check?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Printer: X2D (3 identical printers)
Slicer: Bambu Studio (latest version)
Filament: Multiple brands and materials tested (PLA Matte, PLA Silk, etc.)
Nozzle: 0.4 mm
Temperatures: Default profile temperatures for each filament.
Print speed: Default Bambu profiles.
Retraction: Default Bambu profiles (unchanged).

hey guys so I've been having some problems with print quality recently. I have an ender 5 pro I moded a while ago with a mercury one.1 kit for a corexy motion system and it worked decently and printed a benchy and a Calibration cube and they looked decent but I was away for about 9 10 months and now my prints suddenly look like shit and have those weird blobs on the walls. I dried my filament and even printer with the same roll on my p2s bambulab and it looked perfect on there so idk what to do anymore. any help will be very appreciated :).(printer is a 2019 ender 5 pro with Mercury one.1 corexy conversion kit and volcano hotend with 0.6 nozzle and orbiter v2 I think extruder, slicer is orca, temps are 255 nozzle and 75 bed and also have a glass bed from creality, filament is azurefilm petg hyper something, speed and accel is in the photos and I have calibrated my max flow rate to 30mms³ and retraction is 5mm at 90mms)

Is this rippling a pressure advance issue?

Svo8

Pla

Temp 220 FL 215 OL

Bed 55

Speed 30 FL 200 OW 300 IW

PA 0.02

Max volumetric 12

So i have a decent amount of 3d printer experience, and my friend in another state got an old Lulzbot Mini 2 for free, so im helping him set it up on a call. We get it "working" but the filament is like soup, and im under the assumption that it is because the filament is so old (this is the white filament in the photos). I had him order another one (the black filament, and by the way the filament size for this machine is the 2.85mm size) and expected it to work, but what the heck is this?

My best guess is that the nozzle size in the settings is incorrect, but we dont really know what nozzle size it has. The lulzbot is so nonstandard, and we are using the recommended lulzbot slicer for it and what we think is the most common nozzle size for the machine which is 0.5mm. Ive never really dealt with nozzle sizes outside of 0.4, could someone tell if the actual nozzle size is greater or less than 0.5 based on this picture? Or if it is some other issue? Im a bit out of my depth here...

I'm sorry if this is an elementary question, but I have tried adjusting my print fan settings, number of vertical perimeters, perimeter speed, print orientation, and chamber temp and I am at my limit. I need the sharp edges for the model, so rounding them isn't an option.

The first set is printed with the wide surface down. You can see that the walls collapse inward. It looks to me like it is trying to warp off the bed, but the adhesion is holding.

The second set is printed upside down with supports. Here, the overhang edges are bulging outward. (The one that is particularly bad is when I simply shut off the print fan altogether)

The last set is also printed upside down with supports but here you can see the warping at the corners of the top surface.

Ultimately, I will be printing these in Prusament PCCF, but I want to get the settings better so I don't waste the PCCF on bad prints I need 12 of these (with some variation in the model).

I am printing these with a closed vent and 40-45C chamber temp because I thought the uneven cooling might be to blame. The PCCF will have to be printed with these settings anyway.

Thank you for your help. This has been driving me crazy for weeks.

Hi, i use abs with 250 nozzle temp and the tops of my prints come out like this unless i put higher top layer count in which case it gets covered up by the time the final top layer is done,why does this happen, i cleared my nozzle of any clogs and prints come out really smooth when there are to infill