r/FixMyPrint

• voxellab aquila (I have klipper set up on a raspberry pi 2b via fluidd)
• cura (I am using printsleo3d's aquila profile for all my settings)
• PLA amz3d
• nozzle=205 bed=50
• 40 m/s infill 20 m/s most other settings
• 6mm retraction distance and 45 m/s retraction speed

The print quality is the same as the last time/normal to me where it matches the gcode and I checked the gcode which I attached above and seeems fine in both cura and on the gcode preview on klipper. I also got back just under 4 hours into the print, the nozzle was about double the height that was printed from the model so I assume it got blocked (though I just had to push the filament through manually and it came undone so idek what happened there). Pretty sure there are retraction issues as a print I had done yesterday had a fair amount of stringing, poor top layer and holes in the side ( I will be drying my filament before my next print) Thank you in Advance for any help given!!

Is it possible that every layer time change in the print when geometry and size change will cause artifacts??,,, this drives me crazy and this is my number 1 and only issue that destroy my prints.

Printer is clone prusa mk3 that is well tuned and calibrated and working flawless.

Using bambu studio here, In this model, as you can see theres is a very large time difference due to switch to internal infill, about 400 sec difference in layer time,, this makes a very visible artifact 😭

I have tried “dont slow down for outer walls” and difference in time is still the same, playing with speeds can slightly reduce time difference

My settings are :
Matte PLA that prints very well at 195C, bed is 50C
0.4 mm nozzle
0.4 mm outer wall
0.45 mm inner wall
2 walls used here
Inner wall speed 50
Outer wall speed 25
Sparse infill speed 200
Internal solid infill 200
Top surface speed 50
Using fuzzy skin here

The only way to reduce time difference by increasing speed of internal infill to 400 mm/sec which is super high for my printer and will still have a huge gap in time..

I am not sure what to do but this doesnt make sense..

Any ideas 🙄

Hi! I have a p1s from bambu

Even after a big number of flow calibration done, pressure advance and Volumetric speed adjustments, I can't get a smooth top surface, even if in the beginning i got pretty nice top surfaces from the same filament.

What can cause this?

Middle looks smoother, wall side looks pretty bad.

Tried a 0.1 layer height, better results, but at a closer look, same look as with the 0.25 layer.

K is 0.035

Best flow was 1.015 based on calibration

0.25 layer height

0.4 top surface width

0.4 nozzle

Bambu slicer

I'm just calibrating this new filament.I got which is p l a silver silk, and it is geetech. I'm doing the calibrations for this new filament, and I was able to do the temperature print without any hiccups, but now I'm trying to do the pressure flow rate test and it's coming out as you see above, I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I said the Z Axis offset, and I have already changed the temperature to the optimal temperature. So I don't know what to do from here. I have a flash forged, adventure 5M. An enclosed one I haven't changed any settings but the temperature and the Z offset. What am I missing.

UPDATE ****

IT WAS THE Z OFFSET IT NEEDED A LITTLE MORE SPACE FROM THE BED!

So I opened a brand new PLA matte pink, tried to print a pencil case for my daughter, but the result, as you can say, is not that good. Is it the settings, or does the filament need to be dried?

Printer: Bambu lab A1 combo

Launched it throught the app not the slicer

Thank you in advance

1. Does the top layer look over extruded? Not quite happy with the finish and I suspect I might be too stupid for the flow rate calibration

2. What are these tiny defect right next to the right side of indents in X/Y walls (for example at the Bambu logo in pic 2) and is there a way to get rid of them? Also the one Y wall shows tiny ripples (pic 3)

Just did my first full filament calibration but I'm unsure if that's a good result. But waaay better than standard profile. Printed on a P1S in Bambu studio with Elegoo PETG Rapid @ 0.2 layer height, 260° Nozzle temp, 1.0925 Flow ratio, max volumetric speed 21 mm³/s, 0% Aux Fan, 33% Fan, 200mm/s layer speed

Im getting into the business of making LED signs and I have issues with the first layer of the diffusers. I made a post about this the other day but I have better lighting and photos this time. If you look at the prints you can see there are spots where it's fine and looks good but others where you can see the lines and the light come through badly. Please help me fix this

0.4mm nozzle with 0.2mm layer height

Printer: H2D Filament: Sunlu pla silk+ Slicer: Bambu studio

The first picture is how the original came out. It printed how it is oriented in my hand but half the print has a rough finish. I tinkered a bit in bambu studio to see if changing the orientation might help but I'm still skeptical especially since supports won't generate for the one of the objects. Are there any settings I should change or should I just print them on their sides?

I would normally say, "Oh it got a bad auto-level" but the rough texture is in the same corner on two different pieces on different sides of the bed. That seems a bit odd to me.

I certainly don't want it to get worse... what could be going on here? How can I correct it on a Kobra X (z-index adjustments aren't exactly as simple as on the Kobra 2 Pro.

Machine model Anycubic Kobra X - 0.4mm Firmware version - 1.2.0.2

60/60℃ - Bed Temp 210/210℃ - Noz Temp 60% - Model Fan Standard - Speed

Printer is P1S
It is a generic PLA
It is a 0.4 nozzle
Bambu studio for slicing
Nozzle temp 220C
Bed temp 55C

The only settings that I have changed from default are enabling support and the infill to 10% with gyroid.

I feel like I have it maintained decently.

I have never had this issue before. But this is quite extreme layer lines.

I have had it for at little under a year.

I am trying to print some parts with Elegoo rapid petg on my x1c with a .6 but I keep having very bad issues with the top layer the first picture is cubic infill then I did 4 different infills on the 2nd don’t remember which they are but top right is gyroid which looks the best but still has some of the issues 3rd picture is the slice of each using orca slicer with default rapid petg profile

• Bambu Lab P2S.
• Bambu Studio
• eSUN PLA+
• Cool Plate Supertack: 45C
• Nozzle: 225C
• Speed: 60mm/s

I'm unsure what is causing the 3 bulging lines on my print. Temp, Flow dynamic, and flow rate have been calibrated. I don't get lines like this on other models using the same print settings and calibrations.

Hello all.

(Printer Info and Settings)

Stock Ender 3, printing with Hatchbox Matte Black PLA (which has done fine for me in the past), E-Steps are good, head is at 205C, bed is 55C (no problems with adhesion), models sliced in Cura at 0.12mm layer height and tree supports, 50mms travel speed, 5mm retraction (have gone as high as 8mm with no appreciable change in results).

(The Story)

I've been printing with PLA for quite a while and this is becoming more and more of a problem. Everything I print has these weird bits of extra plastic. There is also some conventional stringing that I need to address, but my main concern is all the extra plastic branches. They make it nearly impossible to clean up the model and are getting rather annoying, so any help would be appreciated.

TYIA

Hello, printing newbie here.

Not sure what went wrong with the head, maybe printing speed?

Settings:
Printer Model: Bambu Lab A1
Slicer: Bambu Studio (?)
Filament material: Bambu Lab PETG Basic
Nozzle and bed temperature: Default value (I think 250°C ?) and 70°C
Print speed: default (profile: 0.20mm Standard @BBL A1)
Retraction settings: default too

Model, Gordon Freeman from https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2618992-half-life-figures

Thanks a lot

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get rid of these outer wall artifacts? Ive read that it might have something to do with natural frequency of a stepper motor or even not having interpolation on for my TMC2209 stepper drivers. I have it turned on with 16 microsteps. I recently switched to klipper on my printer and have only noticed these after switching. Any suggestions are welcome!

Flyingbear Ghost 4 with newly swapped out MKS Robin Nano V3.1 with klipper. Filament is Panchroma Matte PLA being printed at 190, inner wall speed is 60, outer wall speed is 50, movement speed of 200, acceleration at 1000.

Nevermimd the stringing issue in the photo, im more worried about the wavy looking lines.

This issue occurs on multiple prints but I get these really rough faces typically where there are supports.

The printer: Elegoo Neptune 3 Max w/ .6mm Hardened Steel Nozzle.

Slicer: Cura

The filament: Elegoo Rapid PETG

I don't dry my filament but it's because I live in a very dry climate (the Phoenix, AZ area).

The print in the photo is one example but this consistently occurs and I'm not sure if I'm just impatient rushing the print or if my settings are just bad. I had the same model print beautifully when up right minimizing the support contact area and the amount of supports needed.

The other photos are my current settings.

Additional notes: I print using Octoprint and have had issues with Orca (typically those prints just wouldn't want to adhere to the bed at all) so I'd like to stick with Cura.