This is a follow up to an earlier post.
Upper jaw was printed last night, lower jaw is older.
I'm new to drying filament so maybe I'm doing it wrong, but the drier went from 55 rh to 35 rh before I started printing.
Still getting weird lines along the teeth and tip of snout.
Any advice?
Hi all,
I bought a Ender s1 this week for dirt cheap is in great working order and my brain is fried, I just can’t seem to get the print to print consistently at all, I’ve cleaned the plates, releveled the bed(I think), cried in bed and I get varied results I’ve attached a video of the latest attempt from today, it’s only placing half the first layer down and then placing what I think looks like the rest of a potentially great first layer.
Current print settings have PLA to 200 degrees with first layer going down at 30mm/s at 200 degrees too bed is at 60 degrees.
I’ve watched a lot of YouTube videos but I feel confused what I should be doing to fix the problem.
I feel like I’m close but yet so far away :(
Any help is much appreciated that can steer me in the right direction
Printing a riser, how is this even a thing. (X2D, material is abs plus from AzureFilm, 100C bed and 270C nozzle, i have fan deflectors installed)
Ender 3 con guide lineari su X e doppio asse Z appena montato, estrusore metallico bowden, tutto calibrato al meglio possibile (cinghie, flusso, retrazione, junction deviation, pressure advance)
Pla basic eSun a 205°C a 40mm/s, retrazione 4mm a 45mm/s, ventola 100%
Filamento asciugato ieri per un giorno intero a 55°C
Non sono soddisfatto della stampa
Basics:
Bambu A1 Mini
.6 extruder
Polymaker PETG (dried for 10 hrs at 65c)
15% infill
10 wall loops
10 top layers
Otherwise stock Bambu PetG settings
I was out of the house, but my girlfriend said she heard it making a grinding noise which I’m assuming is the damage to the print… When I got home print was complete but this was the result. any help is appreciated.
My first layer from the k2 plus is scratchy like sand paper I think my bed is not leveled right and the nozzle is to close to the build plate waiting on new filament to come in just in case it’s moisture in the filament but I’m unsure.
Hi everyone,
Just a quick heads-up: I’ve been into 3D printing for eight years now. Over this time, I’ve had the chance to learn a lot and developed a solid understanding of the physics behind it. However, I’ve now run into a problem that I just can’t seem to solve.
For context:
I’m printing on a Prusa MK4S and slicing with OrcaSlicer.
Whenever I switch to a new filament or nozzle, I fully recalibrate everything from scratch—temperature, flow rate/extrusion multiplier, Pressure Advance, and so on. Thanks to this, I’ve always achieved very high-quality prints.
Up until now, I’ve been printing PETG with a 0.4mm nozzle. Recently, I bought and installed a hardened 0.6mm nozzle for PETG-CF and recalibrated everything.
While the dimensional accuracy and surface quality are absolutely perfect, the Z-seam is completely ruined.
As soon as a new layer starts and the printer begins extruding, it takes a brief moment for the filament to actually come out of the nozzle. This results in missing sections. The layer then closes perfectly before moving on to the second wall/outer wall. This second line starts and ends almost flawlessly. However, if the print head travels across the bed to start at a different location, the seam there is broken as well due to missing filament.
I’m completely at a loss as to which settings to adjust next.
What I did find out: if I reduce the retraction distance from the default 1mm (picture 1) down to 0.5mm (picture 2), the gap where filament is missing gets smaller. If I lower it any further, I start getting stringing issues. But even then, there is still a persistent gap left at the Z-seam.
Could you please help me out? 🤷🏻♂️
I am printing at 100 mm/s and 3000 mm/s².
Hi folks on my sv08max i get thes artifacts befir and after the holes support or no support.
I am not quite sure what to call it and what to google for.
To be clear the sides of the holes bulge a bit outward
Sv08max petg 260c 170mms
Ignore the z banding i think its just the cheap filament im using( funstional part not cosmetic)
Hello,
I recently replaced my nozzle due to a persistent clog, but I have noticed significant artifacts in my prints since the change. Could you please provide some advice on how I might resolve this issue?
Print info:
- Printer: Bambu Lab P1S
- Slicer: Bambu Studio
- Filaments: Black Inslogic PETG / Yellow Bambu Lab PETG Basic
- Temp: Bed 70°C / Nozzle 245°C
- Speed: walls 200mm/s, sparce infill 330mm/s, top surface 200mm/s
- Retraction speed: 30mm/s
Snapmaker U1
Nozzle .4
Deeplee PLA+
A friend wants me to print this mask in black. But how to i get a smooth-er top surface?
I’m printing this on my bamboolab A1 0.4mm nozzle. Does anyone know how to get rid of these artefacts. My model is clean but slicing do this with that model
Hi, I'm trying to calibrate a PETG spool bought at Clas Ohlson (Nordic everything store). I have a Bambu lab P1S and I used the 0.20mm Standard @ BBL X1C preset. It has the OG 0.4 stainless steel nozzle, but I've upgraded the extruder gear to hardende steel along with a 0.6 hardened steel nozzle. The 0.4 nozzle is installed atm.
When I run the Max Volumetric calibration through Orca Slicer, it fails. I tried to dry it in the chamber by having the bed heated to 80 for 6 hour then flip for 6 more hours.
Here you have two benchies, one white (the old one) and one in nicer filament. I am not sure if the issues exactly happened after I changed the fillament, I don't think so. The problem as you can see is that the printer struggle to make circles.
It is very evident in the chimney of the benchy, but to be honest with you, any other gap for a screw or similar has a similar issues in which the filament does not make a circle.
Any suggestion what shall I look at?
(It is the same gcode, but the bed temperature and filament temperature was increased to the match the middle point of the range of the new filament.)
Ender 3 Pro: Direct Drive
Orca Slicer
Filament with issues: PLA SILK Tricolor (Aurora Borealis)
White filament: Amazon Basic PLA
Nozzle (Aurora): 215ºC
Nozzle (White): 205ºC
Bed (Aurora): 60ºC
Bed (white): 50ºC
Print Speed: 100%
Retraction setting: I am unsure what this is so I guess Orca Default.
If you notice, the "fails" in the external ring, they happening more often in the right side
Im using a ender 3 with pla basic from bambulab
0.98 flow rateio
1.96 pressure advance
210°C on the nozzle
This looks like an underexteusion, but from what?
What is going on with that stringing there? Also, hard to see because blurry, but there is a piece of filament sticking out horizontally from the nozzle. Left nozzle of H2C has consistently had random issues and lower print quality than the right, vortek, nozzle side. Like, look in the top left corner there. The stringing is out of control, it's almost like the layers aren't sticking and are just getting pulled behind the printhead.
H2C, left nozzle, sunlu pla+ 2.0 black filament, filament was dried two days ago and is PLA. Default Bambu PLA Basic settings which include 220 nozzle 55 bed. 1% infill default print speed with 3 wall layers at .24 layer height. It's a double sided ramp for my micro b rc car.
Freshly unpacked PLA spool. Why ????
P2S
On standard setting
Hello all, this is my first ever 3d printer and im just getting started, and I was printing a bracket for my bltouch but my printer keeps producing prints like this. Could anyone point me into the right direction please? Thanks.
Ender 3 V2
PETG First three layers 240c rest 235, bed 75 first 3 layers 70 rest
I added new springs for the build plate
Bmg clone 3:1 dual drive extruder, adjusted e steps to 415
Using orcaslicer
Printer Information
- E3NG with Klipper
- Dual 5015 cooling fans. Tested and appear to be working.
- Orca Slicer with the RH3D E3NG default profile
Filaments Used
- Green Elegoo PLA+
- Inland Purple PLA
- Inland Silk PLA
- 200-205 nozzle temp
- 55-60 bed temp
Fixes I’ve Tried
- Made sure no cables were loose or pinched
- Made sure fans were working properly
- Re-did a PID nozzle tune
- Tried to print an overhang test with already calibrated filament (Green one) and got the same result
- Tried an overhang test slowed by 50%. Same results.
- Did an overhang test where I reduced the temperature by 10 degrees and it didn't change anything.
- Did 2 cold pulls to clear out any possible clogs.
The printer is a new build and it was working greay for about 10 prints. I installed a cable chain because the cables were scraping the top of the enclosure and now I'm suddenly getting horrible overhangs. I checked the cables and everything looks fine and has enough slack. I included a photo of the cable chain in case that raises any red flags. Any suggestions?
Edit: Added some new things that I've tried.
So last print legit fell apart. Tried it again after calibrating. Bottom was fine but this just was making string and not sticking. Any help would be appreciated, I'm fairly new at this. Heat was at recommendation, everything's dried. The AMS says it's in C but I can't seem to get it down but everything else printed fine. Just started doing it today. I'm using a bambu p1s