
Joystick connector missing pads
Switch lite side-B right joystick 2 pads have been ripped off from the joystick connector what at the test points I need to bridge to repair (ignore the solder gore this is how it was found)

Switch lite side-B right joystick 2 pads have been ripped off from the joystick connector what at the test points I need to bridge to repair (ignore the solder gore this is how it was found)
I'm trying to learn basic electronics repair and people keep telling me to get a real soldering station instead of a cheap soldering iron and honestly I don't really get the difference because I thought heat is heat but the more I look into it the more confusing it gets.
Some people say temperature control is the key thing while others say stability matters more than max heat. And then I saw someone mention that cheap irons can actually damage components because they fluctuate too much.
I’ve been trying to piece things together while reading random guides and watching repair videos. I even noticed people comparing different setups from places like Alibaba, which made me realize there are probably huge quality gaps between tools that might look the same.
One thing I still don't get is whether or not full soldering stations are really necessary for beginners or just overkill marketing. Like, is it possible to actually learn properly with a basic setup or does it just make things unnecessarily frustrating?
Also, what actually defines a good soldering station? Is it temperature accuracy, tip quality or something else entirely?
Sorry if this is obvious but I just don’t want to waste money on the wrong thing while I’m still learning.
New batteries are $200 Canadian and I'm hoping that with my soldering abilities I can replace these two fuses.
It started with a single to double line at the side, then it flickers like this. When it was only lines before, i did a bit of googling and people were saying it might be some loose wires in the monitor. I postpone that, and now it does this. Do we know if this is still a loose wire in the monitor? Problem is its a thin monitor, idk how to open it safely aside from the screws.
I'm looking for an inline lamp switch like this one. Most versions I find seem to be the cheap $1 type. Are there any higher-quality brands or industrial-grade versions available?
I have a Sony stereo receiver set-dh190 that took a tumble and now doesn’t fully work. It will turn on for around 10 seconds then shut off and nothing in the display lights up just the power light. Sometimes Bluetooth still connects but nothing happens and it eventually shuts off again. I have it opened up as I assume something is broke internally but I’m not sure where to start or what to look for.i included some photos but the main issue is I don’t understand the system enough to really know where to go from here, any help is appreciated.
Not sure if this is the best subreddit for this, but any idea how to fix this Woody doll? I’ve replaced the batteries; the old ones weren’t corroded. I’ve tried using it with the switch in all of the positions and the pull-string seems to be functioning as it should. It’s a hand-me-down but gently used.
I can't figure out what this part is called so that I can order a new one. If anyone knows the name that'd be super helpful.
Some info: I saw that the screw the wire was attached to was covered in rust. I unscrewed the wire panel that it is connected to and the wire had broken off. I'm thinking it'd be easiest to install a new thing instead of fixing a single wire.
I don’t even know what’s wrong with this wire, I am concerned about it being broken/unsafe for charging.
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I had to clean my mixer because milkshake leaked into the interior. And therefor i disconnected the power cable and the motor cable from what appears to me as a pcb filter board.
But how do i connect them because so c01 c02 c03 and c04 are the names of the pins and what cable goes to which pin?
The power cable has blue and red. And the motor cables have brown and dark blue.
Thanks in advance.
I have this Canon printer for years now, I replaced the colour cartridges last year with some no name brand. I have not printed anything for a few months. Now I wanted to print something and it only prints black and white. Even the test page is only black and white.
I tried deep cleaning the print head and it doesn't help. I removed the print head manually, but I couldn't see any issue.
Is there any way to clean it manually to remove any clogs or whatever is blocking the colour print jets?
I'm fixing an old Xbox 360 and need some help deciding if it's worth trying to clean this motor+new grease or trying to find a new one
Originally I was told the issue was a motor, so after taking it apart, the only one I found was an old gross motor for the laser in the disk tray
It shows 032ACP D0Y16C2D on the back, I'd also appreciate if anyone knew good grease to see if the motor itself still works
Hello, everyone, I have heard great things about this community. I would like to repair this lamp remote. It’s not a fancy or expensive lamp but that’s why I think it’s a good first project. I just don‘t have any knowledge.
I would like someone to tell me whether or not this is fixable and how I should proceed. My first thought was to just put some solder on the broken spot and hope for the best.
Thanks in advance!
There used to be a surface mounted capacitor here. The retention pin for the CPU's heatsink broke, and when moved, decapitated the capacitor. In the process it appears to have pulled/tore some of the copper. I know what capacitor I need, and I think I have spares. The question though is the damage to the PCB too severe to even try? Is the entire light green area one plane? or were there multiple layers/traces that are now cut? This is a switch motherboard, and this is in the area of the main processor (outer edge). I would assume a capacitor of that size would be filtering the main voltage line or some such thing. Any thoughts or ideas?
Bought a faulty Xbox series X that turns off after a while playing Fortnite but not when playing for example rocket league (according to the previous owner).
I’ve played Fortnite just to be able to trigger this faulty and in the beginning it lasted about 20min before shutting off with just a beep sound and no fault code.
I’m able to start it directly after the shut down and play for a while again until the same thing happens.
After I’ve done everything explained below, I was able to play for almost an hour. When it shut off that time, I started it again and it shut off after 5 min and when I started it again it lasted almost an hour again.
The console has been cleaned, replaced thermal paste, replaced the thermal putty on VRAM and VRM(?), tested the capacitors on the secondary side on the PSU which showed to be slightly outside their range so I swapped them as well.
It does seems like a overheat problem on some of the components but nothing that will trigger the fan, cause the fan is performing at a normal state.
Because of the behaviour and signs, I think I will exclude the PSU as one of the causes for now.
I’ve order more thermal putty (CX-H1300) and will try to replace it again but this time try to warm the putty before applying it cause it was kinda stiff even though I made it into ”pancakes”.
Any other suggestions? Im kinda lost and it seems like no one else has had this issue.
Anyone knows what is this called? How can I replace this? It's not the cap, is it the thumbstick itself?
Product Model: GameSir X2 USB-C ANDROID
I clean the vital areas and still don't turn on. I suspect that is that pin, looks fried. is something I can do? don't want to throw it away at part of my childhood
Bonjour à tous,
Je suis en train de réparer un ventilateur et j’ai besoin d’ouvrir le moteur pour vérifier le fusible thermique.
Le problème : je dois retirer 4 vis à l’arrière du moteur métallique.
J’ai réussi à enlever celle en haut à gauche (visible sur la photo posée sur la table avec la rondelle noire et la pièce grise qui étaient avec elle), mais les 3 autres sont bloquées.
J’ai deux tournevis :
• un grand cruciforme qui glisse/rippe dans la vis,
• un plus petit qui avait réussi à retirer la première vis mais qui maintenant glisse aussi beaucoup et me fait mal à la main.
Je tourne bien dans le sens anti-horaire pour dévisser.
Mes questions :
• Est-ce que mes tournevis sont adaptés ?
• Dois-je acheter un meilleur tournevis ? Si oui, lequel serait plus adapté à ces vis là ?
• Avez-vous une technique pour débloquer ce genre de vis sans abîmer la tête ?
Merci !