r/ElectronicsRepair

Any tips? I’ve been trying to unscrew it however the screws are so fragile and are stripping very easily. The rubber band method didn’t work.

I have been trying for a while now to try and mount a laser on my 3d printer, to be percice my ender 3. I bought this laser of aliexpress:

- https://a.aliexpress.com/\_EyHJfoW

The model is LT-40w-AA-12V

With it I got a board to connect it to the printer (see picture above). I followed a few tutorials online. And connected the lasers ttl/PWM port to the adjustable fan. And the 12/24v port to the constant fan on my printer. But this did not work the laser just blaster full power without a way to turn it off. I tried switching some wires around but ended up with a defect variable fan port. So I bought a new printer a ender 3 V2 for 30€. Tried the same thing connecting it to the printer. But now when I put the fan at 0% the laser blast full power, but when the fan is any other procent it the laser starts to blink. It turns on and off. The motherboard of the printer is V4.2.2

What can I do to make it work? Or is it just not possible?

Someone offered me a TV for 30 bucks but it has these horizontal lines on it, i'm hoping he's just using a bad input/cable but i am having trouble finding any info online about this kind of phenomenon. It's a Philips 55PUS6804 LCD TV. Does anyone know what causes this?

HiFuture Tour headphones, Made in China. Was putting them on as I usually do, then the left side cracked. They still work fine.
How can i fix them because i would still like to use them. Is buying an universal headband suitable or is a DIY fix the only way. With glue i don’t think it would hold for long.

Inside the main electronics it's all dry and not corroded. I tried unplugging the capacitor but it's still instantly short circuiting even though our mains is 12A and it draws 9A.
Could it be the main switch? Any other leads? Thanks so much for your help

Good day everyone! Title is exactly what the problem is. For reference, The mouse I have is an attack shark x6. When I initially replaced the old battery, the new battery had a different pinout but I changed it to match. It initially worked well and exactly what I was going for which is longer battery life, but when it came to charging it, it never accepted any charge at all. Upon closer monitoring, the new battery is discharged (3.07-10v reading) and when I charged it for a couple hours the reading has not changed at all. Is there a fix for this? Thanks in advance!

I have a Dell Inspiron 1440 from 2009, and in taking it apart 1 of the contacts on the power button ribbon cable broke, now it cant turn on. It charges and all, just the power button can't send anything through because of the broken contact. The ribbon cable is a AWM E118077 2896 80C VW-1 4 pin 0.5mm pitch, Im planning to replace it when I can with a 2064. But for now, how can I turn it on? Can I short it or smth?

hello everyone.

i have a msi motherboard (MS-7B79 Rev 2.1 X470 GAMING PLUS) and the mobo have a problem. the usb overcurrent error.

when i turn on my pc, my system shut down after 15 secs because of this problem. based on my multimeter diode measurements and tests, the problem causing by this two ports near the ethernet port. (vr ready and superspeed)

i asked claude ai and it says the problem might caused by the load switch ic (which is i never heard before). so i sent some photos to claude and it says the 20s83 thing (which is near the ethernet and that problematic usb ports) is probably the reason of overcurrent.

idk what thing is so im asking to you guys. is this thing really cause that problem. how did i find that thing? i searched internet but couldn’t find anything helpful.

also i almost forgot, the 2 usb ports under the circle also problematic. they didnt give much power to run a usb device. i diode measured them and they are stable like the normal ones (480-485 mV) but they are not working either. anyways, i talked so much lol. can you guys help me please????

sorry for my bad english if i made a mistake. have a nice day yall!

Easily snapped from the base, but it’s a very cheap charger so I’m not surprised. I have hot glue, school glue (highly doubt that works), duct tape, and can buy glue or tape. It does fit back into the port but if I try to plug it in it gets stuck in my phone (and I have to use pliers to get it out)

Hi there just asking if any one knows when I turn it on the disc drive opens and doesn’t stay shut any idea on what it could be.

Hello,

So i have this Mechanical Keyboard which is a Machenike K500 which is broken in the USB-C Port, i think it is because somebody likely tripped with the cable and welp, it hit on the cable and the faceplate, now as it can be seen the middle part of the USB got desoldered lol with time the cable got marks on all sides in straight lines (don't have a pic sorry) until it broke and became useless (the keyboard itself, a random day the middle part of it went inside), and i don't wanna make this end on a landfill i think the PCB Traces are okay (not sure, apologize for the image xd) but i have no iron station, no flux, no stain, no parts no nothing, i am willing to buy tools in order to get the thing repaired or i would like to hear your recommendations of where i could repair it for cheap any tips or anything is welcome :)

Screen is all white and there is a big blue vertical block

Need help how to repair old remote control for fan and lights. It has LCD Display that shows fan settings. It occasionally works, but for it to came alive I have to insert battery in and out multiple times until occasionally display and functions become active. Then after some time it goes dead again. What part of electronic component can be bad? Electric connections of batteries to board is 100% ok

Update:

You must have been right about the connection issue. As I was taking it apart to take pictures, it started working again. Here are the insides. The connections at the points where the wires attach to the board are solid, so the problem must lie somewhere else on the board. I would like to inspect the side that is hidden under the LCD, but I'm afraid that if I disconnect the screen from that rubber contact strip, I won't be able to realign it correctly during reassembly. Do you have any suggestions on how to do this properly?

https://imgur.com/a/TqAbKxf

Update 2: It's definitely a connection problem on the board. The signal disappeared as soon as I screwed the board back into the enclosure, which suggests that even slight flexing breaks a connection somewhere. For now, I've reassembled everything without screwing the board down, and it works. However, if the chances of successfully repairing it without making things wors are high, I would like to proceed.

The touchpad click felt a bit off so I decided to open to laptop and inspect further damage.

Model Number: AP18C8K
Secondary Part Number: 3INP5/82/70
Voltage:11.25V
Capacity: 4471mAh /50.29Wh

Hello everyone! Hope yall doing ok

This Stick was given to me by a friend at work, the problem is, it turns on just fine, but it doesn't go past the boot animation, i tried using the remote to get to the recovery mode, but no success, tried using a Y cable that i built to use the keyboard, but same thing. Idk where to go now, but i did some research and heard about having to use a serial-usb cable to read the tx and rx pins, but i don't know which pad is the rx/tx, so i'm hoping someone knows that information, or if there is another way.

Model: S3L46N