r/ElectronicsRepair

I had a short in a case fan pop my PSU. PSU reset and survived. The backplane did not. D27 on my SM BPN-SAS3-826EL1 rev1.1 came apart but I was lucky to find the case portion that came off so i did what I could to "get it back together" enough to read most of it and thought I'd try replacing it. It seems to have text on it showing "A6" and maybe "GP 522" or "GP S22." Any help on positive id and/or sourcing is appreciated.

I accidentally ripped a ceramic capacitor from the board on my PS3 while i was delidding the Cell

and now i Need a replacement but i can't find schematics for this console anywere and i don't have a donor board how can i find out what capacitor do i need to order to replace it?

The TV is made of 2 logic boards and one power supply board.

The TV turns on but there is no backlight, I can see an image by flashing a light to the TV.

I am guessing the two white connectors on the upper left of the power board (1st picture) are for the backlight. Could someone confirm?

When the TV is turned on, the pins of these connectors don't show any voltage.
They also don't seem to be shorted to GND.
I also can't see any burned components.
Other power rails are present on the two logic boards.

I would also like to know where the backlight enable signal is, if there is any. It could just be that the main board is not telling the power supply to turn on the LEDs? But it is hard to tell as the PCB has no marking/silkscreen.

Thanks a lot for any help!

Soooo... this happened

Thankfully i think i only hit a ground plane on the Cell

Do you think i can just resolder the capacitor or l'm looking at a trace repair work?

Pictures from my two cameras. what it should look like vs what it does.

Hey guys I am trying to fix an expensive 120v to USB-C Cube that was given to me. It does not seem to provide Power but I have not tested it other than trying to plug things in to the USBC outputs. I am proficient at traditional through hole soldering but do not have any training or equipment for SMD. Can anyone point me in the right direction on what to check?

Good Afternoon Gents,

My manager gave me permission to get a tier list for the Basic, Mid, and Top tier of the hot air guns. Pictured is the hot air gun that I ordered. The first one we had was garbage. It was the hot air gun wit the fan on the handle. Was garbage. So i improved upon it by getting the tube one, but where I messed up at as you can see is that the air and temp are on the same nozzle. So i'm allowed to get a new one but he wants a tier list and also for me to explain the differences of them all.

I deal mainly with laptops and micro pcs like the Optiplex 7000 series. And laptops are Dell, and Lenovo and some HP. The ones for businesses so for dell it'll be the latitudes and Thinkpads like T14s and etc. The main project I will be doing when I do get the heat gun is We about 11 Optiplex 7000s that have bad front USB ports and since those connectors are hard to find, I need to take them off some bad units and replace them. Since I cannot control the separate nozzles, I end up burning the piece even tho I do get the usb connector off. What I did learn about the hot air guns were that there were two types. Helical wind and straight wind, I knew nothing about a week ago. But yeah I would love to hear you all thoughts on the topic on what you guys recommend. You guys already helped me a lot with the flux/solder situation as well. So thanks again in advance!

Came back from holidays and found my krk speaker like this.

What could be causing this issue?

I’m currently trying to replace the screen on my HP model 15-dy2035tg laptop and can’t figure out how to remove the video cable from the old screen. I would love any advice so I can replace my screen!

Hi,
I picked up an ASUS ROG Strix Z390-I motherboard cheaply as a repair project. Right now, the system won't post or boot at all (fans don't spin, completely dead startup).
Upon closer inspection, I noticed some small bits of dust/fluff trapped inside the CPU socket pins. It looks like the previous owner may have left the socket exposed. Could accumulated debris or fluff on the pin socket. Could this be the primary culprit causing a complete failure to POST? The picture is just one clean image showcasing the fluff that’s caught but I could see at least 10 more and some are really hard to see under the naked eye but I can spot on a microscope.

I've already tested the basics:
Standby voltage is present on the power switch pin (⁠PWR_SW⁠ reads ~3.41V).
When I manually bridge ⁠PWR_SW⁠ to ground, the voltage drops, but the board still refuses to trigger the power supply startup.
I'm currently looking into testing and potentially replacing the Super I/O controller if the socket cleanup doesn't work. Has anyone dealt with a similar dead Z390 board issue?

Any advice before I attempt micro-soldering?

I know that it’s easy to just replace it but I’m trying to figure it out and my stubbornness won’t let give up until I finally break it or establish the job is too hard.

Thanks

I bought a used LG 27MD5KB screen for cheap. The reason being is the Thunderbolt port doesn’t work. So i took out the pcb and it seems to just need to be soldered back on or replaced.

I called around my area (I’m in SoCal) and was quoted $160 and $200 from two places so far. This seems way too expensive.

What should I be paying?

I would do the work myself, but I don’t have a hot air station and honestly don’t want to buy a setup bc I doubt I will use it much.

Am I crazy for thinking these prices are too much or is that standard?

I recently found my old Nintendo DSi after roughly 6 years of sitting unused. It was apparently left connected to the charger for a long time, and unfortunately it shows.

I initially wanted to just see if it still works, but after looking at it properly I'm hesitant to plug it in.

From what I can see:

• The charging port has significant corrosion/rust around it.
• The charger itself is also heavily corroded, so I disconnected it with pliers and I'm definitely not planning to use that charger again.
• Several of the screws are heavily rusted/corroded.
• The game card slot/ejection mechanism is messed up. The card doesn't eject properly.
• The exterior has quite a few scratches and marks from years of use.
• The screens look physically okay from what I can tell, but I obviously haven't tested them yet.
• I haven't properly inspected the motherboard or battery yet.

I've attached photos of the current condition.

My goal is to properly restore this thing rather than just get it working for five minutes. I'd like to clean it up, replace whatever needs replacing, repair the charging system, fix the cartridge mechanism, and hopefully get it back to a good working condition.

My main questions are:

1. Should I attempt to power/charge it at all in its current condition?
2. Should I remove and inspect the battery before doing anything else?
3. How serious does the corrosion around the charging port look?
4. Should the charging port be replaced, or can something like this usually be cleaned?
5. Since the screws are corroded, what's the safest way to open the DSi without stripping them?
6. Is there anything specific I should inspect on the motherboard for corrosion/liquid damage?
7. What would you recommend as the proper order of repairs/restoration?

I'm fairly new to console restoration, so I'd rather take this slowly than accidentally turn a repairable DSi into a dead motherboard.

Any advice, guides, or things I should absolutely NOT do would be appreciated.

I can provide more close-up photos of the battery, charging port, screws, etc. if needed.

Have been experiencing shutdowns under load and both pcie cables have power pins darkened/blue tinted, so PSU (corsair SF750) must have been doing some sort protection. Cables were bent badly at the connectors or badly plugged so that might have been the cause. No fried plastics just metal female / male pins getting some sort of burns.

Anyway I replaced both cables and now looking at PSU side. Same - power pins are darkened / blue tinted. I am afraid plugging good cables never going to make good contact anymore and instead will have increased resistance which will increase current and shutdowns and fried cables will be back in no time. I dont have free good ports I have to use all of them.

Anyone cleaned it successfully long term? I think pins have some sort of coating that if you scratch it will oxidise and same issue happen. I tried IPA and nothing. I am determined to fix this glorious PSU so pls no “replace the psu” advices. Thanks in advance

Long story short, the pcb is carbonized due to a leaked capacitor (Marshall Stanmore speaker)

I do repair electronics, but I did not have to deal with such pcb damage.

I'm wondering what would be the best approach, to repair the "wound". I know I have to clean the carbon, because it's conductive.

Any advice is welcome.

It’s in the base of a blender, is it for anti tapering?

Samsung 70” TV
Kids threw a toy (with keyring) that cracked the bottom centre of screen, line running through screen when on.

When the TV is switched on it briefly turns on and then switches itself off. Ive stripped it down to see the back light and can see all lights briefly come on when the tv is turned on but then instantly go out. Any ideas - I’m only just learning about electronics.

Hey, yall, any idea what this sounds might be. I know it's brief, but it's concerning as I dont want my kid to experience a cutout of some such.

I'm fairly certain the sound will be easily recognizable to someone more familiar. Please

Hi, I found this TV on the trash, so I decided to bring it home to see if it works, but when I arrived I realized that the AC cable was cut. I don't know if I need an specific cable or something. The TV is an K50DLJ12US from TD systems.

PD:Sorry for the bad quality