r/ender3

I have been trying for a while now to try and mount a laser on my 3d printer, to be percice my ender 3. I bought this laser of aliexpress:

- https://a.aliexpress.com/\_EyHJfoW

The model is LT-40w-AA-12V

With it I got a board to connect it to the printer (see picture above). I followed a few tutorials online. And connected the lasers ttl/PWM port to the adjustable fan. And the 12/24v port to the constant fan on my printer. But this did not work the laser just blaster full power without a way to turn it off. I tried switching some wires around but ended up with a defect variable fan port. So I bought a new printer a ender 3 V2 for 30€. Tried the same thing connecting it to the printer. But now when I put the fan at 0% the laser blast full power, but when the fan is any other procent it the laser starts to blink. It turns on and off. The motherboard of the printer is V4.2.2

What can I do to make it work? Or is it just not possible?

EDIT: thanks for all rhe help guys! Its turns out it's a direct drive set up and I needed to adjust the settings lower then 0 in order to begin to get the bed leveled and everything printing.

Hey guys. Ive had this ender 3 pro sitting for a while and finally decided to get her back up and running. After a week of rewiring and watching various videos and doing replacement parts, it looks to me like the extruder motor needs to be sitting on the Z screw on the back?

Where its sitting now is right ontop of the nozzle, which I noticed is making the nozzle not go down far enough to touch the bed and be able to print.

I got this printer secind hand from an older gentleman who said he used it to print and sell those movable dragons, and wasnt expecting the massive amount of rebuilding that ive been doing lately. Any feedback is appreciated thank you!

I recently started getting these an hour or so into any print. I am confused, because the printer will happily idle at 250 for hours on end. Print temp is 235.

Hello everyone! I have been working on a new OctoPrint plugin to help with spool management. Currently it is on v0.1.0, so my first release that i am willing to share with the community. For now, filament tracking is manual, but in the future I plan to add automatic tracking and QR code support, RFID support, and NFC support. This is my first ever plugin and I am excited to share it with the community!

https://github.com/wpallender/SpoolWizard

So I spend a full weekend on calibrating EVERYTHING (almost a full reassembly and calibration) but ut still does this. I suspect it’s more of a fine tuning issue whith the extruder motor. And advice on how to correclty resolve the issues on the video?

I am printing gyoid infill in a xyz calibration cube, the cube comes out pretty good, perfect first laster adhesio. but the infill is always just failed.... i am using klipper and orca slicer. Tried printing infill at 1 mms same result. Idk what is wrong.

As a last effort I decided to clean the filament entirely and unclog the nozzle again, and it seems that everything ended paying off, now I just need some upgrades to it to get even better quality, but for a starting point i'm actually very satisfied, always wanted a 3D printer, now I think I finally got one, hopefully after everything i learned I can help other people here even though i'm still a beginner

keychain is for a friend, asked for a HP choosing hat, printing isn't that perfect still but for a 3D printer that was sitting in storage for years, previous owner had cut the extruder wires and cables, had to do a lot of work but everything went right in the end it seems, thanks to this subreddit and a friend of mine, we basically spent weeks working on this.

I’ve been chasing ringing and ghosting issues on my Ender 3 at speed. I had installed the Creality dual z axis upgrade and Creality x axis linear rail upgrade for the Ender 3. While the dual z upgrade was awesome the x axis upgrade felt cheap and underwhelming and tbh a downgrade because it pushed the carriage out considerably, losing build volume and screwing with my offsets.

I decided the next step was linear z rails to help with uneven z layers. The chowthink kit while being a bit pricey at 60 bucks is the real deal and came with everything wanted and the end result was reduced z layer unevenness. I had to chop the rails down to clear the top alignment bearings but that was the only mod needed.

The x axis Linear rail kit looked awesome but since it was for the S1 as well it required much more effort and modification to function properly with the top mounted rail. The end result brought the carriage back to where it belonged and restored my build volume and offsets. The problem was the E3V1 version was out of stock and impossible to find. Also it didn’t look anywhere near as clean with the smooth front. And red plate.

Well it’s done and it looks badass imo. Is it still an Ender 3 v1 at this point? The last bit of business is to make a custom tensioner. It will mount the the center core hole on the extrusion. Once it’s done and functions. Properly I’ll upload it to printables.

I was trying to get the z axis to move parallel on both sides (I have only one lead screw). The horizontal part that moves up and down was wobbly so I tried to adjust the eccentric nuts and check the rollers too. I tested it by just homeing the printer and it moved fine and the wobbly effect dissapeared. I also changed the nozzle to a new one.

So Istarted to adjust the bed and BL touch to start a test print and even tho the bed is on the max height (rear left corner already pressing the plastc cable mount under the bed) the nozzle still isn’t close enough.

But my bigger issue now is this:

The printer doesn’t let me go to negative Z values. But somehow it did when I controlled it over octoprint but I don’t understand why it didin’t stop when the safety switch is pressed.

Any help is very welcomed and very appreciated.

Dialing in my max speed settings, no Klipper

Max extrusion volume: 50 mm3/s

Max acceleration: 3000 mm/s2

Max speed: 250 mm/s infill, 250 mm/s inner perimeters (combined every 2 layers), 90 mm/s outer perimeters (precision)

K factor: 0.007

Layer thickness 0.16 mm

PLA 240 degrees

I know I could bump up my acceleration, but on smaller and more detailed prints it won't save much time.

I recently got the ender 3 from a guy I know. It prints fine for the first print of the day. I printed a vase. It ran for around 20 mins. Then I try to print benchy and it starts shooting blanks like the video I've attached. I tried to change the bed. Cleaned it. Changed the bowden tube and nozzle too. I'm losing my mind. I'm new to 3d printing. Please help.

First of all my english is very bad so if you don't understand something, just tell me

I calibrated my e-steps at 140.9 (direct drive) and now i'm getting this result on the infill, this starts only since the second layer (visible on the 1st picture)

I tried to set the flow at 90% on the ender but nothing changed (except some under extrusion somewhere)

I also lowered the printing temp from 210 to 205°C

I've put the bottom of the first layer as the 2nd pic (I know I have stringing, this was a test before I lowered the temp, but nothing really changed after that, and my Z offset is too high to flat the first layer

For reference, this is an ender 3 pro BL-Touch, direct drive, with the board v4.2.7, my extruder is brand new (changed yesterday) and the nozzle too (0.4mm)

I'm printing with PLA from fillamentum at a layer height of 0.20mm

I hope someone knows what's the problem with my printer 🙏

My Ender 3 has suddenly begun creating interesting patterns when running stringing test prints. It has been printing excellent for several years up until recently.

What I have done/checked:

• Bed levelling
• E-steps
• Slicer settings (exactly the same as before in Prusa Slicer)
• Changed nozzle and bowden tube, cleaned hot end
• Replaced the gear on the extruder with a new one

Also, interestingly, there is some "pitting" going on on the first layer only, but no signs of under extrusion on the following layers.

This issue really escapes me, as well as how the pattern in the image is even possible. It seems like it might be "shadow extruding" or something like that.

All ears for any ideas!

I was printing done nothing to the printer and when I come back its displaying this on the screen clicking the knob doesn't change anything please I am so lost model is ender 3 pro stock motherboard and display

Running marlin firmware and cr touch with x y and z offset data set just need to have it not try to level the bed and missing it was wondering how i can set the x and y offset for the printer. When attempting to go to configuration and setting home offset im flashed the error code "To Far" but i dont know of an other way to set an x or y offset for the printer

Toilet paper roll stand!

Big one needed a makeshift carry rod. But the small ones fit perfectly. Anyway I'm sure there are many different kinds of Toilet paper stands out there that would work better. I needed this one today because the wiggle up top makes tiny bumps in the print when it catches up on the filament roll.

Prints have been crappy lately, haven't changed nozzles in a while so thought why not.

Instant quality increase.