Hi guys, i was wondering on the benefits of upgrading to a dual gear extruder on ender 3 pro..
is it worth it ? does it then required software adaptation of any kind or just install and print ? cheers
Made an attachment that accepts big refillable markers. Makes for wild gradients. (I used sublimation ink in those markers) Model available here: https://www.printables.com/model/1602235-filament-painter-3-way-color-blender
I picked up a ender 3 and ander 3v2 today and I have no experience but I'm willing to learn!
the guy I bought them from said that the 3 has a " ender 3 with bl touch and dual z axis upgrade" but as I'm trying to set them up I noticed that the power supply cord that connects to the power supply then goes to the machine is cut, what is going on here and how can I get this machine in working order anything is appreciated!!
I was printing with PETG at 240/70 it was taking around 28 hours to print a rather large piece. On Ender 3 Pro. It looked good coming off my bed but it's not flat and kinda curved on the corner. What would cause this?
Still messing around with the 3 the v2 is tomorrow's problem I was looking for my nozzle wires and cannot find them here's what I'm working with right now + the parts I think may be what I'm needing to get it working any insight helps and thanks again for being so helpful on my last post !!
As said in the title i am missing a leveling knob and i dont have any nuts that fit the screw. are there any alternatives? Also why do we even have springs why not just use some sort of solid pre leveled thing
So I’ve been printing with a “hand me down” Ender 3. It was given to me by my BiL because I guess he felt like “upgrading” to a Bambu A1. When I received the printer, everything was stock except for the bed springs. BiL did end up upgrading those, but that’s it.
I just let it sit for a few months and just watched a ton of videos, read an ungodly amount of “guides”, and lurked around the various 3D printing/Ender 3 subs just to learn and take in as much as I possibly could.
About 5-6 months ago is when I started to actually jump in to printing and I very quickly noticed how annoying the original drivers are on the stock Creality board and made plans to eventually upgrade the board. Before I did that, I wanted to at least do my best to tweak and play around with printing in general - ya know, understand what it is I am doing before I make things more difficult to work with.
What I DID upgrade before I got the board was some better fans, switched bed springs for silicone spacers, and an all metal extruder(this was needed because the stock one actually broke). Was printing fairly decent with all this and felt I was starting to understand things!
It was at this point, about a month and a half ago, that I decided to jump in and upgrade the board to the BTT SLR Mini E3 v3, the LCD to the BTT TFT35, and also added a CR Touch. It took about a week to get everything MOSTLY dialed in, except I am having issues printing any sort of small features.
I’ve gone and ran just about every “test” there is:
Calibrated my e-steps
Retraction tower
Speed tower
Temp tower
Bridging and overhang torture tests
Hole test
Flow test
Support test…you get the idea..
When printing a Benchy the hull is great, but when it starts to get to the layers for the center cabin and the two holes in the front of the bow it starts the stringing issues.
What is it that I am missing or doing wrong to get great results for any “large” portions of my prints, but the “small” features are resulting in a TON of stringing?
Also, sorry for the novel. I wanted to make sure I gave enough information to give a decent idea of my situation…
ETA: forgot to mention that I thought wet filament was the issue. Tossed a roll of PLA into a food dehydrator over night and within an hour of taking it out I started another Benchy. Still resulted in the same stringing.
Hi all,
I just recently started to get my old ender 3 back up and running after sitting for a while. Before going to indefinite hiatus due to a thermistor issue it was printing fine and quite good. I installed a btt skr 1.4 board and a btt pi and got it running on Klipper but ever since I can't get to have a good first layer no matter what I do.
In the mesh picture I attempt to adjust for that peak in the top left corner, but even with the screw all the way tight and loosening the bottom right screw all the way it stills has that peak. I also used both Klipper probe screw leveling and good ole fashion paper leveling with no avail.
The picture with the first layer test shows that it looks good, but whenever I try an actual print nothing sticks to the bed and blobs up. I would also like to note, if i push on the left or right side of the bed I here a popping noise as if the wheels are sliding into the groove for the y-axis, but when I do it the wheels don't move at all.
Ender 3 Specs:
Using SUNLU PETG at 250 for the nozzle and 75 for the bed also made sure its dried.
BTT Pi 1.2 Running Klipper (Everything up to date)
BTT SKR 1.4 with 2209 drivers
Dual Z with CR Touch and Sprite Extruder SE (CR Touch is wired to go in the z-end stop on board instead of the probe spot, idk if that's causing issues)
What I have done:
Cleaned my bed with soap, water and 99% IPA
Tried the Klipper's Probe screw
Tried Klipper's manual bed screw
Tried Klipper's adaptive bed meshing
Calibrated rotation distance for Extruder
Thanks for your time and any assistance you can provide.
Hi all,
I want to update my old ender 3 and buy a new cardboard 4.2.7. When I power on my card, all the motors turn and the screen is just blue.
I verify all the connections and everything looks good.
Do you have any idea? Copilot told me to change the screen...
Can you please identify the issue in these two images. The nozzle sometimes affect the bed with high temperature which let some blank spot in it. The second issue is the over extrusion in z seam. Which it didn't disappear even with reducing the flow rate.
I will be grateful if you can help
Printer Ender 3 Material : PLA Eco Printing speed : 100mm/s
The problem starts after changing the filament, the one used before is eSun PLA matte
Sort of got my ender to behave, how’s this benchy look? The bottom I think is still a little squished and there’s random gaps.
I tried to speed it up abit more but the corners bulged some and I got stringing.
Using CHEP’s fast profile with .28 layers as a shortcut…nothing I tried was working too well.
I’d share settings but I honestly don’t know enough to know how deep into the settings he adjusted anything.
SKR E3V3, sprite extruder otherwise stock machine from 2018 dusted off after a few years slumber.
So I got a severe X sliding issue, my setting is MKS robin e3 v1.1 with klipper. Since I change to direct drive, I change the lighter 34mm motor of the X axis to extruder and the heavy 40mm motor of the extruder to the X axis for more torque. And now I'm having this kind of X sliding. Please help me
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I bought a replacement thermistor without checking that the connector it came with was compatible with the cable already in use with my setup. Already bought a different one with a longer cable since this one is too short to run through the mesh thing with the rest, but i remain curious as to how i could get this setup working.
So uh, can I shove this (what i assume is a) female JST 2.54XH onto this male JST SM connector and expect everything to work fine, or will it cause some kind of catastrophic malfunction if i turn it on? I have heard it supposedly won't work, but i have yet to see anyone explain why or what would happen if you try 🤔
I've not used my V3 SE since moving about 8 months ago, tried printing some things out and this just happens, sometimes it gets a good 3mm and once even about 90mm before it went spaghetti. Been through about 1kg of filament so far haha
I've never been one for printing itself, more of the printers, so that's why I've done so much to my printer, but not bothered on quality or speed, I've got a bambu for that, but I like to tinker, even if it's 'useless'
Work done:
Stock ender 3
Blv linear rail kit
Dragon burner hot end with bambulabs nozzle
Btt e3 v3
Btt pi 1.4 (I think I can't remember)
Btt u2c
Btt ebb36 (1st gen)
Biqu microprobe
Meanwell powersuply
Bambulabs shock absorbent feet
Wristwatch (bmg style)
Ldo 36mm (extruder)
Ldo 1.8 speedy steppers (x,y)
Duel z
Adjustable belt tensioners
Klipper
Old phone for klipper screen
V slot covers
Voron trident style skirt
Pei build plate
Tpu bed springs
But here we have my first speed benchy, 24 mins, no extra cooling, no skipped steps, in esun pla+. When I was finding roughly where my printers limits where I burnt out the original y stepped motor and so I changed over to ldo, and I think that's what made it work so well.
Ender 3 Pro- Recently replaced the Extruder to the creality all metal gears. I also have the Capricorn Bowden tubing. I’m not sure the issue isn’t related to the tubing, but… it’s having a hard time pulling the filament through the gears. Making the clicking sound like it is slipping. And ultimately it’s grinding the filament down until it snaps. I have tried loosening the screw. I have calibrated it. What would you suggest I try?
Hello
Im using ender 3 s1 pro
And im having issue with first layer of bed as you can see in the pictures one picture is at 50% printing and other one is finished .
Can you help me out whats wrong ?
I’m having a problem with my Ender 3 V1 and I wanted to know if anyone else has experienced this or knows how to fix it.
I have a 4.2.7 board and I’m using the official firmware from Creality for the CR Touch and Sprite Extruder. Ever since I got the printer, it loses all of its settings every time the power is cut, even if I use the “Save Settings” option in the menu.
The following settings get reset:
PID values
Bed leveling data
General configuration settings
I didn’t worry too much about it before because I was using a K1C, but now it’s broken and I had to go back to using the old Ender.
In the past I also tried compiling my own firmware using base Marlin, but the exact same issue kept happening, so it doesn’t seem to be something exclusive to the official firmware.
Does anyone know what could be causing this or how to fix or mitigate it?
I want to calibrate my slicer settings but I dont really know what to change. I made this benchy on an ender 3 v2 neo 3d printer using the NORMAL prusa slicer quality preset. Could you please point out the imperfections on this print and tell me a solution to fixing them.