
They screwed up lol
I ordered this very cheap orbiter, noting it had fast shipping, and now the day its supposed to deliver its been delayed two weeks, i think they are trying to get me to cancel, lol

I ordered this very cheap orbiter, noting it had fast shipping, and now the day its supposed to deliver its been delayed two weeks, i think they are trying to get me to cancel, lol
The lifters were desentegrating, so now the truck needs new lifters and cam on top of the heads machined, exhuast threads repaired and new seals. This is actually fucking stupid. This is a well maintained and cared-for machine with 188k.
Replacing the head gaskets on a 5.7 hemi and one of the mds clips was just sitting on the lifter assembly. It deffinately should be in them but i dont know if i need to put it back or what.
This is 1 of 4 parts printed in 100 percent infill at the highest speed i can usually run. My best guess is that when the bed started getting heavy it started missing steps and shifted badly. There are some other issues here but this is the first time ive seen this layer shifting
Im really wanting to convert my V2 to direct drive just so it's easier to tune, but im having a hard time deciding what to use. I've been told to just use the Sprite it looks heavy, and i dont want it to be heavier because my rig prints are smooth and quick with the boden.
After downloading cura, and loading my orca generated code into it, it looks very problematic.
I've been playing with this printer for a while now, and i like it a lot, but my adventures into orca and g codes have got it a little confused can some one advise me?
Hey all, this is my isuzu 2.3 4zd1 engine that im just wanting to be indestructible. It was freshly rebuilt by an unknown shop.
It was bored, overhualed, and a new head installed. I didn't open up the bottom end before i installed it, but the break-in was rough with a few shreds of bearing coming coming out in the oil, and now it struggles to build much pressure when warm.
Im planning to port and shim the oil pump and order new bearings, but i dont yet know what gap im going to aim for. This engine has a forged crank and rods, so i doubt they are bent but anything is possible. I suspect all my preassure is going to the bottom end but i plan to mic the cam and valve train just in case they are sloppy.
I would really like to get 70 psi of oil pressure so its reliable at or above 7000.
Im new to this car engine building but ive made some pretty reliable mini bike and chainsaw engines.
My heritage captains are about 1 month old, and the sole is coming off.
I took them to the cobbler to be repaired, and he said he can't stitch them. He also said it's normal for thursday boots to fail like this because the rubber can't bond properly. Is this true?
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Should i warrantee these? I plan to purchase some small screws and shoe glue to temporarily repair them.
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My boots are dirty in this picture but i take good care of them and they have not gotten wet at all aside from grass.
I have 5 acres with two entrances that i live on. Its on a main road and a side dirt road and you can drive all the way through it. Its super easy and the mail/amazon/fedex have never had a problem.
Ups though is a pain as they choose to deliver to my neighbors who are scum bags.
I made my adress and put the google maps pin right in the middle of my land so they cant even get close without pulling up one of my drives.
They have successfully made 3 deliverys out of 5 the first was a $250 dollar pair of boots the just denied having.
Fortunately i raised a little hell and they called me this time when my 350 laptop was delivered.