Working on a jet boat 454. My buddy claims his friend took it out and played with the timing. Well it blew the head between cylinders 2 and 4. My questions are 1 is it safe to just fix or replace the head or is the damge to the piston too bad? 2 do you think its more cost effective to weld and machine the head or just replace?
I have an Audi 2.0 TFSI that had all valves bent due to timing chain skip. I think the Pistons look good but just wanted to ask around since I got the motor open.
2AR-FE that I picked up after it hydrolocked when the teen driving decided his tC should be a boat.
Three of the interior cylinder lips have some small damage - but well below where the rings travel.
Should I clean up the edges to smooth and send it? Or is this aluminum block destined to be Coke cans? (Note - I haven’t mic’d anything yet, so this may be moot, but would rather know it’s useable prior to doing any more work on it).
Also included a pic of the rods - kid bent 3 of 4. Not bad.
Thanks so much!
Wanting to build my Gen 6 454 this winter and I’m trying to get all my wanted parts laid out. I’m trying to to keep the stock heads and just upgrading the springs and lifters and rockers. it will be paired with a 4L80E. I’m trying to learn about cams and I see a lot of different info. I want pretty good power and a sweet sounding idle lope without giving away a ton of lower torque. I also need one comparable with hydraulic lifters too. I found a comp cam with a 236/242 lift, 236/242 duration and a 110 lope. I saw that I could run up to a .600 lift and like .3 duration on my 454 but I’m still learning a lot. Please educate me, the more I can learn the better.
I'm working on tracing down a very aggressive load dependent tap / tick in my Jeep 4.0. It's too aggressive to be a lifter, and it's coming from the "middle" of the engine height-wise, so I assume it's most likely a broken piston skirt, it's too high pitched for typical bottom end noises and the oil pressure is still good at 40 psi cold idle.
Anyway, I'm thinking about dropping the pan to look for metal, and if I don't find any, I'll start taking the head off and inspect the cam / lifters.
My question is how far can / should I go with an "in frame rebuild"?
I figure regardless of what I find in the pan I might as well throw in a new high volume oil pump.
Assuming there isn't any piston pieces and I can leave the block in the Jeep, I will pull a few main caps to check the bearings but unless they are absolutely perfect I'll probably throw some main bearings at it, and at that point it makes sense to replace the big end rod bearings as well.
I can't get to the cam bearings, so they will stay.
If it's cam and lifter related I'll replace those.
What else am I missing?
Anything else I should do or more importantly, anything I should NOT DO?
So I did the timing chain and a intake swap on my 67 F100 352FE. And I noticed this pushrod spins incredibly fast. Is this normal? If not what should I do to try and correct it?
2010 mazda6 2.5l pulled in 2 days about 3 hours of work each time. 88°f highs, $143 OTD
For use in mazda6 2.3l to 2.5l swap
2016 Toyota aygo 23k miles
Hey everyone,
I was hoping to get some opinions from those with experience rebuilding heads.
I took my Z3M Roadster out of storage after about 6 months, installed a fresh battery, and the engine hydro-locked on startup. I pulled the spark plugs and found cylinder #3 full of coolant.
I removed the cylinder head and sent it to a machine shop. They pressure-tested it, resurfaced the deck, and hot-tank/power washed it. They charged about $500 CAD and told me the head passed the pressure test.
After getting the head home and inspecting it closely, I noticed a line between the intake and exhaust valves on cylinder #3 that looks very much like a crack.
Before I assume the worst, I'd like some experienced opinions.
I'm planning on getting some dye/developer tomorrow, just curious what you guys think?
UPDATE:
Honed these cylinders but this blemish remains. Its enough I can slightly feel it with my finger. Can I run this or do I need to get a sleeve put in?
Thanks
So i just took the head off and was surprised by this thing, is it bad? Can i just hone it with the drill hone thing? I sprayed some WD40 on it.
Volkswagen EA111
Fairly new to the group, reading a lot of stuff. I work on my vehicles, and my son, who will be turning 15 in a couple of months, (and who loves all things automotive) has asked to have an engine he can tear down and rebuild as a little project.
He is comfortable doing maintenance and basic repairs on cars (oil changes, spark plugs, etc.) and I'm comfortable with him doing it, too. So my question here is, if I wanted to get him an engine to tear down and rebuild, just for a project on its own, what would you recommend? Obviously something relatively simple, relatively small. Just so he can get some time turning wrenches. We've got most, if not all, the tools we'd need already. Any recommendations would be great. Thanks!
Had these pistons machined, came back like this. They were pretty filthy so I'm not sure if it was me that got them mixed up or the machine shop.
The rods and caps have letter markings that are supposed to line up, but they're all mismatched. It feels like they were machined mismatched so I'm curious if I should leave them as machined, swap them to match, or if I'm screwed.
They were machined to 0.25 u/s (or for 0.25 u/s bearings, I can never remember the lingo) so I'm curious if the mismatched pieces would have been machined to a specific total diameter, or to have the exact same amount shaved off. If they're machined to be diameter matches to the crank, then I would think I should be fine. Otherwise I may indeed be cooked.
Tbh my fault either way both for not keeping them labeled properly and for not checking when I got them back. C'est la vie, lesson learned
Hey
Is it fair to say my hydraulic flat tappet lifters are no good?
They all look like this, only done 2000 miles. Lunati lifters and Howard's camshaft. Inner valve springs removed when cam was broken in and then refitted after. Spring pressures are set at what Howard's wanted for the cam. Plenty of cam lube used that came with the cam and hi zinc additive used with the breakin oil. 20 mins at 2500rpm to run the cam and lifters in on the new build. Pretty gutted.
Is it safe to install new lifters with this same cam or both only good for the bin now?
After cleaning the pistons up have noticed some of them have a rough edge. Is this just because of the casting? Is it a big deal?
Thanks.
Removed the heads off of my ‘69 Ford XL’s 302. Coolant was pooling in the rear two cylinders on each side. Intake and head gaskets didn’t look too bad. Lack of thread sealer on the bottom row of head bolts may have caused the coolant to get pulled into the cylinder. The bottom row of head bolts go through the water jacket, hence the need for thread sealer on them. Inspecting the heads, I noticed that the intake valve guide casting as seen through the intake to cylinder port are cracked and chipped on 5 cylinders. My question is, should I not use these heads at all? I didn’t find any pieces in any of the cylinders or anywhere else. I don’t know how long they have been like this but I don’t think it is part of the original problem. Heads were professionally rebuilt about 30 years ago.
Hey everyone,
I’m building a go-kart using a Honda CBR125 engine.
I’ve got the wiring mostly sorted, and now I’m working on the fuel system. I’m planning to use an inline electric fuel pump instead of the OEM in-tank setup, as I don't have the OEM pump.
Since this engine is a returnless system, I’m not fully sure how to properly plumb it with an inline pump and whether I need a regulator or return setup.
Has anyone done something similar or know the correct way to set this up safely?
Thanks!
You guys are about to tear me a new one but Got my blocked back from the machine shop about a month ago and the bores looked great. Well I had to block sitting in my garage in the corner and well I guess at some point some type of moisture got into the boars on the left side and left a little bit of rust. Well, me being an idiot decided to maybe run a hone through the affected boars or maybe two or three passes using some motor oil. As far as I can figure, I probably did not use enough oil on the home and it left some scratches.. what can I do to knock the scratches down? Also, the crank and cam are already installed in the block. And when I say scratches, I just mean that the boars feel slightly rougher than the ones that were honed by the machine shop
