r/EngineBuilding

Doing my first engine rebuild. Rb25det. Had the block bored and when I went to put the crankshaft in I used plastigauge to check the bearing tolerance. I’m a bit under .051mm for the rods and right at about .051mm for the crank. The book says I should be between .020 and .040 for the rods and .028 and .046 for the crank. I assumed I would need to buy oversized bearings but when I started reading online some people recommend having more tolerance on a build when you are trying to push higher horsepower.

Just wanted to get yalls thoughts, thank you.

Looking for some advice on removing the MLS gasket material on my 4.6 2v. Looking to replace with same gasket, previous gasket had no failures but two of the cam journals in the head were scorn. Any tips or tricks would be helpful, it the first time digging this deep and appreciate some insight

Looking to pick up this short block. Wanted to show some pics if anyone catches something I’m not seeing that would make you walk away.

This bike means the world to me, and I will do everything I can to fix it. I’ve read and watched this forum for a while. Im a Commercial HVAC tech, so I’m mechanically inclined, but I dont have the experience to build this. I also don’t have the 25k to pay something to build a new one with new block. I know I’ll get some nasty comments. But I will take it slow and learn. I guess the main thing I need to figure out is if my cylinder 4 is done(that means block is done). Obviously head is done. But if block isn’t done then that just means I need a new head, piston, rod(maybe) 4 valves, and refresh of crack bearings. That I have the money for. And then obviously assembly.
Cylinder 4 has a scratch in the front and the back that barely catches fingernail. Other then that any damage is after the ring travel. How much material needs to be removed to remove that scratch. Can it be made back up with a new Nikasol coating.
Motor is Gsxr 1000 its a 3mm overbore w/ a 4mm stroke.
Any advice. Positive or negative I’ll take. As long as it’s honest.

So I’m putting together my Gen 3 5.3 with new rods and pistons.While I was putting the pistons on I got all the new retaining circlips except for one, I lost the last set is it ok to replace with 2 generic snap rings? I can’t find these exact clips online

Going to college next year, throughout college I plan to collect some parts for my truck, vortec heads, 1.6 rockers, suspension parts etc... anyways, what ate some upgrades that should be done to vortec heads, like valve springs? Rocker studs? What? I will also be doing a decent intake, distributor, maybe a carburetor, maybe a cam, idk all depends on what I decide, the truck is very healthy rn just wanting more power!

So I measured my pushrods wrong it seems. I measured them a long while ago and came to 6.400" on my 1971 302 block with retrofit roller lifters and roller rockers. The valve tip pattern was perfect however I was trying to start the engine for the first time and it seemed like I had no compression. So I put 30psi of shop air in the spark plug hole and listened and sure enough it's coming out of the intake manifold and the exhaust. So I shimmed it until it was no longer leaking and found that at .080" worth of pedestal shims it stopped leaking. I clearly need shorter pushrods, but I did this measurement while the engine was primed with oil and it only took 1/4 turn from snug to full so it didn't seem like there was any lifter preload hardly. So maybe 6.35" pushrods are my ideal length. This was my valve tip pattern with the 6.4" pushrods when I measured the first time. I have gt40p heads a melling 24110 cam and trickflow valve springs I'll be installing soon paired with some flat top trw L-2482 pistons.

Hello Guys, I'm rebuilding my VAG 1.8T at the moment and I'm not sure if I should hone the cylinders. The cross cut is still there, engine got 180tkm down, new rods, new pistons are going in. There are little running marks (picture 3) from the old pistons. I'm glad about some advice or some good tutorials for the honing process, greetings from germany.

Not sure if it will be unbalanced? Would you run it?

Pulled from an engine with bad main/rod bearings looking to recoup some losses. Engine had good compression and during overheat I just machined and lapped the valves. Can I sell this?

I’m really excited about getting to work on this 300. I really learn best from videos, but I did just get a ford service manual in so I can double check what I’m seeing to see if I’m getting correct information.

The stuff on the bottom of the head is just some lube I needed to wipe off.

Outside of cleanliness is next to godliness, what are some tips and things to watch out for? I know no lube on the backside of the connecting and main bearings.

Im currently trying to clean this head for a engine rebuild but don’t have the money to take to a machine shop and there are non in my city. Ive tried with a razor but it keeps digging into the aluminum, any tips on how to clean without fucking up the head?

Building my 1968 427 L36.

Specing out a rotating assembly for a gen 3 hemi. Looking to make <1000hp on nitrous, and maybe 650 NA.