r/EngineBuilding

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B20z2

Rebuilding my 2001 Honda Crv, pulled the engine to redo my transmissions clutch packs and gaskets etc. I degreased the engine after pulling it and left it sitting for a couple of months

I guess I didn’t cover the intake or exhaust well enough and moisture got into one cylinder, I rehoned all of them as they were basically mirror finish but no damage I could see or feel other than that rust.

Would that cause a huge amount of oil consumption or anything else? And is the honing good on the other cylinders? It’s my first time doing an engine I dove head first into the project and learning along the way

u/abigellm8 — 9 hours ago

289 mustang C code - header debate

Hi all, looking for some input on this.

As the title says I have an old Mustang. I purchased long tubes, 600cfm vac secondary Holley, 4bbl intake. Installed everything all is well.

The exhaust is still a single tube exhaust but was in rough shape. I’m going to a dual exhaust system custom fabricated.

A few years back I pick up some headman headers.

The problem is I really don’t want to weld the power steering drop down bar and loose ground clearance.
Have to get high temp plugs do all the BS that comes with headers.

I have the original log manifolds, does it
honestly make that big of difference on a street car?

If i did other engine mods like a mild cam would the original manifolds make that pointless in the future?

Are K code manifolds worth it? $600 price

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u/Impressive_Gas_265 — 12 hours ago

Total engine failure

What do you guys think is the cause of this? I got this engine which was supposed to be assembled and tested for compression and ready to go. It was supposed to be never started before. I went to start the cam break in and within 5 seconds heard some very awful noises. It’s a 383 stroker small block Chevy not that that matters.

Update: I have not found anything other than piston material, bearing material or piston ring material. I checked all main bearings they all seem fine. My guess is either they forgot to install the wrist pin retainer or something got in there, however I haven’t found what that something is.

Do all aluminum cylinder heads warp in the center under regular use? Regular use meaning they haven’t been overheated or abuse, just over time from heat cycles. (Pic for engagement only)

I’m trying to find out how many thousands of an inch is an acceptable amount of warping from everyday use but I cannot find a reliable source. I’m no machinist so I have no idea what’s acceptable and what isn’t.

u/yaboymiguel — 1 day ago

honing feedback

ust 320 grit ball honed my cylinders for the first time ever, howd i do? only did about 10 seconds per, went over the left one twice super fast. can go over again if needed, just wanting some opinions before going further. sorry for the bad quality. video in comments thanks for any feedback! d17a2 cast iron/aluminum

u/Dependent_Rough167 — 1 day ago

No such thing as "drop in pistons"

I see a ton of companies advertising pistons to the aftermarket these days as "drop in" saying they match both weight and size of factory pistons.

These pistons are supposed to be for stock bore, stock bore is 4.090", block is torque plate honed to 4.090". These pistons land between 4.088" - 4.0885" and after getting ahold of Mahle are supposed to have .003" P2W.

Not a huge difference but .0015" P2W on a boosted engine absolutely is not gonna cut it.

u/kmfblades — 2 days ago

Is this surface Okey to put the head on?

Hi!, it's a golf mk2 1.6 td, there are some black spots at the corners that I can't get with 800 grit sandpaper. I can't feel the blackspots with my nail. Can I put the head on? Or should I continue to sanding?

Edit: I have measured the deck with feeler gauge with multiple levels to double check and 0.05 mm doesn't fit. So I think I'm good to go. I was worried about the black spots like pitting but since they are not close to the cylinder as you guys said. I think I'm Okey. BTW I removed the head due to water leaking around the head, maybe due tho stretched bolts or not correctly torquing the head. Bought a brand new AMC brand head.

Thank you all for the advices!

One more question, in the manual of the Elring headgasket, it says after 1000km driving stretch the bolts 90 degrees again. First time I came by this procedure (my first cylinder head work) should I strictly apply the procedure?

u/bugatti2012 — 1 day ago

So i was changing the piston and was trying to press the pin in with vise while heating the rod. Accidentally fucked the piston up…i can catch the piece of metal sticking up with my finger nail. Can i sand this out with sand paper?

u/No-Highway5991 — 1 day ago

Polish or send it?

I’m building a B5234T3 for my Volvo 850 T5 project, target boost 15psi for 280-300hp. The journal feels smooth. I’ve been following the workshop manual religiously and this is the first red flag I’ve found. This is the journal that mates with the thrust bearings if that makes any difference. The rest of the main journals look pretty similar to this, but this is the worst. Asking before I order new bearings for plastigauge. The only other time I’ve had an engine this torn down was on an LS, and that was years ago in tech school.

Seeking a lil advice for an LT L83 build.

Long story short: I bought a 5.3 L83 block off of FB marketplace. The gentleman I bought it from stated it had DOD delete plugs installed, but all I see are these threaded holes.

Am I missing something here?

u/WaddupCuuh — 1 day ago

Hello guys, i need some help over here, i dont have anybody to ask these questions so i would appreciate the help. I bought a brand new block for my f150, coyote gen 3 2018. Ive been measuring the bores and they seem to be out of specs based on the manual specs? Or am i not seeing something?

u/JayDi1727277 — 1 day ago

350 sbc build

Over the winter I plan to re build a 350 sbc, it’s for a 1985 c4 corvette manual transmission, I’m re using the 2 bolt main block and flat top pistons, will need a new crank so any suggestions on that would be great, I’m going to use “906” vortec heads, 650 cfm carb, dual plane intake, long tube headers, no cats, xe262h camshaft, will be first time building a engine so I’m going to take as much time as I need, any suggestions or advice on this would be great and what gaskets to use, I’m aiming for 350 horsepower at the crank, thanks.

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u/Exotic_Gear8655 — 2 days ago

Is this still usable or not

While replacing the head gasket on my m57 engine i found out that something had gotten on top of the piston on cylinder 6. It has made marks on the head and piston.

u/ComfortLogical2401 — 3 days ago
▲ 2 r/EngineBuilding+1 crossposts

Top End Parts Selection SBC

I’ve gone over this parts list more times that I’d like to admit, but I want to make sure this will perform well together. Got a 1980 k10 with a 350, doing a 383 stroker build. Plan to use it for cruising/occasional towing. Not shooting for crazy high horsepower, just good torque through the rev range.

Anyways, I’m currently planning to purchase AFR 195 Enforcer heads, rpm air gap intake manifold, and comp cams’ XR276HR-10, and a 750 cfm carb. Does this combo sound good or have I picked parts that don’t make sense together? Also was considering eliminator heads but seeing as this motor won’t spin past 6k I don’t know if the upgrade is necessary. Target compression ratio is 9.5 btw

Appreciate all responses, just need to get my head on straight

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u/No-Strategy8510 — 2 days ago

Half of exhaust port and only 1 valve is white.

Hi all.

On one of the cylinders of this engine (2002 Honda CBR954) I noticed that half of the exhaust port is very white, also 1 of the 2 valves. The other cylinders all look normal, like the left side of this port. Engine was running fine.

Does this indicate a possible issue? Or will this go away/is fine.

Thanks!

u/zwbxam — 3 days ago

My 56 Bel air's engine had a ton of coolent rust, how do i remove it?

I really have no idea how to title this but anyways, just finally got my 56 v8 bel air after years of saving money for it to buy it off my grandpa (the car wasnt his, he bought so i could buy it from him) and now finally started to work on the car. I replaced the thermostat but while i had it out i saw that the inside was caked in rust, noe the engine still turns over and it was cycling a tiny bit of what that was still in the block after i removed the radiator (the inside of those pipes were also coved in brown) but i wanted to know if there was a way to remove all that surface rust to prevent any issue in the future, i want to avoid a machine shop for now since i really dont have the money to send it off or time waiting to get it back.

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u/TotallySparky0 — 3 days ago

what would be the best way for me to get in here in de-bur these casting marks? regular dye grinder won’t fit in here.

u/Odd_Exam1605 — 3 days ago

Do I need to degree my LS3 cam?

First time building my LS3. I have a GPI SS4 cam with the fixed (non-adjustable) 3-bolt GM 12586481 gear. The cam card calls for a 109° intake centerline.

Do I need to degree the cam, or is it fine to install the timing set dot-to-dot and send it? I know degreeing verifies where the cam actually ends up, but since the gear isn’t adjustable, I’m wondering if it’s really necessary.
Just trying to do this right the first time. Thanks.

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u/Ls3alex — 2 days ago

Oven cleaner stained engine block

Used oven cleaner to wash my block and it left this, how do I get it out and is it harmful to the block?

u/ChainWitty — 4 days ago