
Rusty cylinder walls
So i just took the head off and was surprised by this thing, is it bad? Can i just hone it with the drill hone thing? I sprayed some WD40 on it.
Volkswagen EA111

So i just took the head off and was surprised by this thing, is it bad? Can i just hone it with the drill hone thing? I sprayed some WD40 on it.
Volkswagen EA111
I have this Volkswagen engine (i believe it is EA111) from a golf 4, engine code BCB and on one rocker arm there is this kind of scratch on the right side of the bearing?
I have replaced the hydraulic lifters two years ago (engine sat for one year without movement so technically replaced them one year ago)
All of these bearings have some marks but this one is the most visible and i can very barely feel it with my nail.
Should i replace these rocker arms and camshafts?
I had repainted an area but i messed up the paint blend and i decided for a whole panel repaint. While scuffing edges a piece of paint came and then i could just easily start peeling the paint off that i applied, The question is what do i do now? Obviously i will peel off whatever i can but what do i change to prevent the paint peeling after the repaint?
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I sanded the surface with 400, paint, clear. It doesn't seem all layers came off as i can see speckles of the first layer (or it's just residue)
image of the failure (I painted the front edge with primer to fix rock chips)
Hello, this is not particularly about a windshield adhesion but about the adhesive itself.
I have a car with a glue in firewall and i need to use some sort of polyurethane adhesive (original stuff seems to be polyurethane to me) but i can't find anything that would be fit for the purpose.
I need to basically adhere two painted surfaces (one surface is the firewall with black paint and the other is the car with clear coat), i found "Teroson Bond True Primerless" adhesives and it seems to be the right candidate for this but i don't know if it can be used on paint if it won't fail after a short while. The original surface from the factory has no primer so that's why i'm considering using the Primerless version from Teroson.
What are your thoughts about this issue? any advice on what should i use?
I'm gonna be painting parts of a car soon, the paint code is LA7W which is metallic silver paint and i was wondering if IWATA AZ3 HTE2 is a viable paint gun for this metallic paint, i literally got it just for that reason because the 10€ paint guns i had before did a horrible job leaving blotchy areas and it didn't even spray evenly no matter the settings and i wanted something fancier. I didn't find any info or videos about the AZ3 performance on metallics, only basic paints and clearcoats. I guess it should be fine but what are your thoughts or experience?
I'm gonna be painting parts of a car soon, the paint code is LA7W which is metallic silver paint and i was wondering if IWATA AZ3 HTE2 is a viable paint gun for this metallic paint, i literally got it just for that reason because the 10€ paint guns i had before did a horrible job leaving blotchy areas and it didn't even spray evenly no matter the settings and i wanted something fancier. I didn't find any info or videos about the AZ3 performance on metallics, only basic paints and clearcoats. I guess it should be fine but what are your thoughts or experience?
I seem to have messed up a paint blend and there is a slight visible edge. I tried to fix it by dusting over it, it improved it a little but it's still visible. It's somewhat flowed and looks like a little hill, it's not visible on the photo. There is clear coat over it.
Hey, i have a spoiler that was damaged and I'm in the process of repairing it. Painting it will happen soon and I don't know if i should apply epoxy primer first, then acrylic filler, paint, clear coat or just skip it and do acrylic filler, paint, clear coat. On course adhesion promoter as the very base before laying down anything.