r/AutoPaint

I got scraped in a Walmart parking lot and brought it to a local shop. It seems like there is some clearcoat drippage or something. Can i use some touch up clear coat and then wetsand and use some cut and polish ? Any advice ? I dont want to bring it back to the shop, i have already been back twice.

I am just trying to do a light touch up I am not trying to repay a whole Fender or the car but the way I'm going that could be happening I'm including pictures of what is going on I am sanding down the clear coat and I am applying Napa urethane primer and it is separating like the Grand Canyon yes I am using proper cleaner yes my Rags are clean if I sand all the way down to the primer it will not do this but the problem is I am still left with a stuttering Edge and whenever the primer touches it it begins to separation progress again.

The car has been worked on in the past not by me I seen stuff like this years ago when you would spray I believe lacquer over enamel or something like that back in the 80s and you would get this effect when I do not want this effect on my Mustang

Is there any type of encapsulating primer that will allow me to just seal over this not trying to go to metal not trying to put new emblems on the car it's bad enough it just started out as a small project and now I'm a quarter over my front fender with this pictures and clothes

Doesn't look to be peeling, looks more like it's fading right now. If I wet the area, the faded area becomes black and matches the rest of the roof paint. So, the base coat seems to be ok.

Of course, it wouldn't make sense to get the whole roof repainted and coated as this is a 20 year-old car, but I'm wondering if I've caught this early and can do something to fix it or prevent it from worsening!

welcome to my journey with these enkei gp5’s,

i got these around a month ago and after looking on different forums and sites i got a bunch of different things to paint them, they were originally silver and one was sanded down, i chemical stripped the other three and finished with 600 wet sanding. Self etching primer and at least one and a half cans of white matte acrylic paint form rustoleum to each wheel, then i went for the 2k and that’s where i messed up

i don’t know exactly how it went wrong because i did it between 60- 70 degrees outside and had them elevated on buckets, but the insides feel like sandpaper and it catches a microfiber towel, i assume it’s overspray and i don’t know wether i should re sand with 1000 grit to get rid of the clear coat and then re apply or just take it to a shop to strip and re paint. For reference i’m on a budget which is why i did it myself in the first place so if there are any tips i could try to avoid the overall charge at the shop i would appreciate it. I tried a clay bar with detailing spray to see if it would remove the dried paint and it did not work.

Hey all, I’ve been looking into painting my eclipse, and I don’t have a huge budget so I’ve been looking at the basic maaco package for 600$, I wanted to ask if anybody has gotten one of these or knows anybody who’s gotten one and if it turned out well. Also I heard they won’t be doing any prep work, so would I be wise to sand the whole car down myself if I did do that. I have a picture attached, I would probably remove the spoiler to keep it white and redo the striping myself afterwards ( and do a better job)

Hello! My wife’s 2020 rav 4 has this paint peeling on the front of the hood, yet underneath is the same paint color? Like not primer underneath, never seen this basically. Looking to see what I can do to make it look better.

Hi everyone. Need some advice and explanation. Should I go for polishing or painting the hood and the roof?

I sprayed this fender red the other day, base and clear, using one of those newer no-compressor electric guns.

I’ve tried another electric sprayer before from one of the H-brands. It worked, but the finish was always kinda okay. A little rough, not super even, definitely felt like a compromise, this one surprised me a bit more. IThe color laid down pretty evenly and the clear came out cleaner than I expected. What stood out more was just how simple the whole job felt without dragging out the compressor and air setup.

And I am curious what you guys think from the finish good enough for this kind of job, or still too much compromise?

Hey everyone,

My mother asked me if I could make some heavy duty scratches a DIY job to save money going to a shop (she was quoted $3,500) plus the increase in insurance. Some of the scratches went down to the metal and some were just clear coat so I followed a few YouTube tutorials, specifically one by a guy “Chris Fix”.

He made it look easy enough but he did the tutorial on a white car and I learned a little too late that that was his secret to such success.

Now I’m here with the clear coat surrounding the scratches very much diminished and when wet-sanding the touchup paint it is loses its lustre. I’m afraid to keep sanding because I don’t want to cause permanent damage to the clear coat and especially don’t want to if it’s just going to make the whole area look hazy. I don’t want to risk adding clear coat at this stage because apparently it makes going back and doing touchups very difficult.

My method so far:

-Evened out the scratches carefully with the abrasive tip of duplicolor paint-pen.
-Sanded with 1000 grit to make them smoother.
-Paint to fill it scratches, several coats applied. Had to go to a car quest to buy more paint because Duplicolor seems to have stopped making my colour.
-Did some wet sanding with 2000 and 3000 grit to even out paint, not sure if it’s a different formula than Duplicolor but it seems to not tolerate sanding quite as well???

So do I keep sanding to even everything out and then go back to car quest and buy more paint but in a spray? Should I just continue to sand to the bare minimum amount and apply clear coat? Or will that “lock in” the haziness?

Thanks in advance - I’ve been working on this for the last couple days and all my mother wants is a “good enough” result but I’d like that to look as nice as possible.

I don’t understand. I’m working on a 98’ f-150, oxidized. First time polishing a car. Thanks for any advice

So I’m hitting the 2 layers of paint with 240 grit, and had been using 80 grit for the exposed metal in preparation for epoxy primer. I also have spots with por15 that I’m going to scuff up as well. I need to blast some rust on a seam area and I’ve been passing over any flash rust with the 240 grit. Do I just go back in selectively over the metal sections with the 80 grit again? What about the transitions between paint and metal? If they aren’t smoothed will scratches show? If I just stick to 240 over everything will the epoxy bite to the bare metal? It’s a lot to keep track of.

I took my car recently by a paint person to see if this is something that can be touched up, i was quoted $1000 to paint this little bit

Any advice?

My first attempt at painting my hood with rattle cans went horribly.

Can this be saved? This is everything I did:

1. Dry sand hood with 400 grit sandpaper --> wash with soapy water. Towel dry.

2. 3 cans of Rustoleum automotive primer (technique was bad and there were plenty of light spots/Tiger stripes)

3. 3 cans of black Rustoleum gloss protective enamel (same problem as the primer.

**Next Day**

1. Wet sand with 600 grit sandpaper using sanding block

2. Wet sand with 1000 grit sandpaper using sanding block

3. Wet sand with 2000 grit sandpaper using sanding block

4. Squeegee/Towel dry

5. 4 coats of black Rustoleum (2 vertical 2 horizontal) with 15 minutes between each coat

6. 3 coats of UPOL Diamond Clear 2k gloss clear (10 minutes between coats)

It's been two days since and this is what I have can I fix it?:

Tried waxing my car and it left this white faded patch on the paint. I’ve tried washing it off, how do I go about removing this?