u/intromission76

So I’m hitting the 2 layers of paint with 240 grit, and had been using 80 grit for the exposed metal in preparation for epoxy primer. I also have spots with por15 that I’m going to scuff up as well. I need to blast some rust on a seam area and I’ve been passing over any flash rust with the 240 grit. Do I just go back in selectively over the metal sections with the 80 grit again? What about the transitions between paint and metal? If they aren’t smoothed will scratches show? If I just stick to 240 over everything will the epoxy bite to the bare metal? It’s a lot to keep track of.

Not having much luck. I tried the Diatomaceous Earth dusting with a turkey baster, I tried piling Diatomaceous Earth on the entire area so it looked like a ski slope. I could visibly see dusted white wasps flying around so I’m sure some of them are being affected. Last night I stuck funnels in 2 entrances I know they have been using and poured boiling water with dish soap in it at dusk multiple times. There’s still some activity today. It’s been almost a week. I just don’t know if the nest is far back enough in the wall that the water isn’t reaching. May try the ski slope of Diatomaceous Earth again today as that seemed to cut activity down the most. Does it matter if it’s for flying insects or ground insects? The one I’m using doesn’t list winged insects. It’s getting frustrating because I have some work I need to take care of in the vicinity of the nest.

A few weeks ago I got stung on the leg walking by this area. Once I cleared some brush I saw that there appears to be an underground nest here within the crevices of this retaining wall. It’s never happened before in the decade I’ve lived here but maybe there has been some failure of the mortar over time opening up opportunities for colonies to establish. It doesn’t look like a ton of activity, but it’s a fair amount. Yesterday I waited until dark when all activity ceased and gave the crevice a blast of Diatomaceous Earth from a full turkey baster. This morning they’re a little agitated of course but I am seeing activity in and out of the crack. So I just wait now and then when things quiet down, seal the void with mortar? I see another smaller hole they are also using right above that must be connected. I didn’t dust there last night.

Did a stupid thing last night and set down an led flashlight bulb side down while it was still on for a second. Immediately smelled plastic and now I have an imperfection on the passenger’s seat that will drive me crazy. Looks like a cigarette burn a bit. Any video I’ve watched on repairs involves glue and some shaved spare fabric from another less conspicuous place in the cabin, but this doesn’t look like your average cloth seat and it has a pattern in wouldn’t be able to recreate. It’s possible the structure is still there, kind of like a mesh, so maybe I could use some fabric paint? Either that or this can be my excuse for starting to look for R-Line seats or GTI leathers or plaid.. They’re not cheap though.

Hey All, so question: I’ve done a pretty good job achieving a level 5 finish skim coating stomped ceilings all over the house but the time I had to do a ceiling repair due to water damage, it didn’t come out quite as great (in certain lighting-3rd pic-not super noticeable otherwise). One of the challenges is underneath the ceiling is plaster an lathe, so I’ve had to use furrowing strips whenever I do this kind of repair. I have a corner that’s bugging me. It’s probably the biggest piece of drywall patch I’ve put on a ceiling (a full sheet with the help of my son) so I’m hesitant to take it down to problem solve. There’s this corner that’s bugging me is sitting proud and preventing it from being level with the sheet next to it. I know that this will be visible if I just mud over it. Any suggestions? Can I chip away a little bit of the material. Something is stopping it.

Unfortunately, I used construction adhesive and not caulk so it will be a bear to get off, and I’m worried even if I did, it would damage the vanity itself. Should I just leave it alone? I’m probably the only one that notices, but there is a slightly larger gap on the back left side where it meets the wall. I still have to caulk that area. My ocd just takes over sometimes. Suggestions?

Read suggestions to wrap the toilet with a garbage bag, use a small roller, but I just don’t see enough space to do so. May be able to cut in with a small painting brush but it’s hard to even prepare the surface and clean it.

EDIT: All set guys! Thanks for the suggestions. I didn't have to remove the toilet.

As is the case with most projects I’ve attempted to get done in this house, I quickly discover that things were hastily (poorly) done during the remodel the probable house flipper took on. I have no studs behind the dark boxes I’ve marked on the wall bellow the x’s. That is where this IKEA vanity needs to be installed for the floating look. I know this cavity rests on a basement joist because the water lines were sloppily brought in through the floor, so finding a way to conceal the red and blue PEX coming into the bottom of the floating vanity will be another adventure. I can’t sister 2x4 into this cavity the way things are where the framing seems to be 2x3. The one on the right I could potentially turn and have resting loosely on the baseplate for support but the one on the left has the p trap drain right there in the way. I’m not even sure how confident I should feel relying on this thinner piece of lumber that was used back here to carry the weight of the vanity and sink plus anyone potentially leaning on it. Maybe the easiest would be getting some legs installed and forgetting the floating idea.

My inclination is to move the PEX lines inside the wall because it will look ugly coming up into the bottom of the cabinet and the holes in the tile aren’t even symmetrical because it was all hidden by the old sink cabinet. I assume the line placement will also interfere with the function of the drawers. Looking in the basement I see the reason for the floor install with the joist being there, but I’m hoping there is enough wall cavity on the other side that I can pull it off. So I guess the next step is to open up the wall. Anyone else see other problems I might encounter with the p-trap? I do have the kit IKEA provides.

Bought some steel shelf brackets from Home Depot to fabricate something custom, spent time sizing things correctly with a hacksaw, removed the powder coating on all points I needed metal-None of my welds would stick and I got numerous burn throughs. I used the Chicago Electric 90 amp flux welder. The only other times I’ve used it was for thicker metal and it did ok, nothing pretty. Of course. I’ve taken a day class on mig welding and am looking forward to fixing up some stuff on my project car with an Everlast MiG I picked up, but this kind of took the wind out of my sails. I realize the tack welds I’ll be doing on sheet metal will be easier, but treating this like a practice run in my mind.

I should mention I never had any issues before and I also never really made a habit of inserting and removing the SD card. Does anyone have advice for how to get things working again? I THINK that says bcto from SD but I haven’t had much luck googling that and don’t really know where to start? It was working fine last time I used it.